Which wire to tap for GPS power?

[bflint]

Yeah ... wanted to order from them, but they aren't fulfilling orders until August 1st ... so went with the Oregon expatriate in Japan.

 

[White Dog_imp]

White Dog, that would make sense. One wire is ground and the other is +12dc. Don't wanna mix those up... :0

Anytime Occi Glad to help.

It helps to pay attention to wire colors. I also was wiring the Escort external speaker to the same wires. The reversal of the wires to the RD was the reason for the blown fuses.

 

[Riko_imp]

my dealer used my headlight to power for the GPS

 

[Lord Popgun]

That is an idea but I can think of at least one reason it is maybe not the optimal idea. But why didn't he just use the accessory connector or wiring? My guess is he didn't know about it.

 

[Riko_imp]

dunno, but works great....switch on and you got power, switch off and the power is off too...

dunno whats the sole reason you refer too that its not optimal that way

 

[Lord Popgun]

Being a tech, we always come up with reasons something isn't good If there is a short or excessive current flow, you would lose the headlight and whatever else (don't have the wiring diagram right now). That would be bad at night. As devils advocate you could say well if you short the accessory circuit you will lose the tail light and meters. Pick your poison. Losing the headlight at night could be real bad depending on the situation. Tail light, at least you can pull over to prevent a rear ender.

That's my thinking. YMMV

 

[bflint]

Help ... I seem to have done something wrong because when trying to tap into the unused heated grip connector in the headlight cluster. I Ordered the male connector and SAE 2 prong wire harness from Eastern Beaver. Connected wiring harness to male connector and plugged into the heated grip female connector. Started engine and checked SAE end with multi-meter and NOTHING registered. Disconnected male connector and checked original female heated grip connector, but still nothing registers on the multi-meter. I've been looking thru the 2013-2014 Service Manual, but really don't know what I am looking at. Any suggestions?
ALL OK NOW. Realized that I blew the 10A Meter Illumination fuse. Replaced that and all ok now. Think it may have crossed electrodes on the first multi-meter I was using (big bulky complicated thing) ... the hint was that I thought I saw a small arc/spark. Replaced fuse and switched to my neighbors palm size meter which is easier to handle.

 

[Lord Popgun]

The green wire is ground. The other wire is +12 volts. Can't remember the color, even though I was just working on mine Saturday. If using a meter, its easy to tell the polarity though. It pays to check as there have been reports of miswiring on some '14 models. Mostly on tail lights IIRC.

 

[Riko_imp]

Being a tech, we always come up with reasons something isn't good If there is a short or excessive current flow, you would lose the headlight and whatever else (don't have the wiring diagram right now). That would be bad at night. As devils advocate you could say well if you short the accessory circuit you will lose the tail light and meters. Pick your poison. Losing the headlight at night could be real bad depending on the situation. Tail light, at least you can pull over to prevent a rear ender.

That's my thinking. YMMV

isnt that the purpose of a fuse to prevent such things?

 

[Lord Popgun]

Yes, but riding at night, no headlight, could be a bad thing. The fuse stops current flow by interrupting the current path. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it, just a consideration.

Edit: Rico, Sometimes the internet makes it hard to tell what we are talking about. I've thinking that you mean the connection you (or the dealer) added has its own fuse. That would be a good thing.

I added a power connection to my headlight accessory plug Saturday and the lead has its own 7.5amp fuse. So I left it so hopefully if something goes wrong, it will pop instead of the 10amp fuse.

 

[Riko_imp]

Yes, but riding at night, no headlight, could be a bad thing. The fuse stops current flow by interrupting the current path. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it, just a consideration.

Edit: Rico, Sometimes the internet makes it hard to tell what we are talking about. I've thinking that you mean the connection you (or the dealer) added has its own fuse. That would be a good thing.

I added a power connection to my headlight accessory plug Saturday and the lead has its own 7.5amp fuse. So I left it so hopefully if something goes wrong, it will pop instead of the 10amp fuse.

yep, thats what I meant, also, the GPS device (tomtom rider) has its own build in fuse, so the dealer didn't have to add one.
(I think he didn't after I told him about the fuse)

But my point was actually that its better to hard wire from anything else than from the battery directly.
I I've read hardwiring something to the battery is not ideal because you would/could draw from the battery even if you switch off the engine/bike.
For instance when your GPS is still on.

When connecting it to something like your lights you know the GPS won't draw power even when switching the engine off because your lights won't work.
Also the newest systems automatically shut down if the power is shut off as well, but I'm not sure if this is also the case if you hardwire it to the battery directly.

Thus the mechanic (like most mechanics I know of) hardwire a GPS system to the headlights.
I also assume they choose for the headlights since headlights are located much closer to the GPS than the battery wich is located further back and thus needs for longer cables going through the length of the bike etc.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Rico, that makes sense. In our case we have 2 accessory connectors that also could be used and are only powered with ign. on. I doubt your dealer knew that. But all is well and we can go riding!!

 

[Cormanus]

You can't go riding, popgun. We might need you round here!