What are some (uncommon) maintenance tips that not many people know about?

[ish_imp]

What are some (uncommon) maintenance tips that not many people know about?

Please share your tips for keeping the cb1100 running smoothly to cleanings tips.

All responses are appreciated.

 

[Wisedrum]

In a way, not so uncommon, but here I presents my tips.

After a ride, I mostly, or even a day after, clean the bike from the spurs it
gained during the trip. Some dust, mud or insects.

This takes less time, than let the dirt take over and then do a
very long cleaning session.

For this purpose I use different mediums to clean it, from water with some dishes
cleaner in it, to Pronto, a furniture polish, yes, or some other polish, over to chrome polish.
Simply everything can be involved , which I have at hand.

My maintenance routine, besides oil change, is more often oiling the chain, keep a
right amount of air in the wheels, have enough gasoline in the tank and that's it.
Off it goes. For kilometers and kilometers. The CB is very frugal...

Wisedrum

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Stick to the maintenance schedule, no short cuts. That's hardly an uncommon tip. But here is one - check the bike carefully for corrosion, particularly areas such as the triple tree clamps and where the oil lines join the cooler. Even if no corrosion exists, after cleaning, spray a little anti-corrosion agent anywhere that might present a problem. I find ACF 50 most effacious in every way.

Cheers

 

[the Ferret]

Lube the clutch pivot pin

How To lube the Clutch Lever Pivot

Make sure your bars and levers are adjusted to fit you

How To adjust your bars and lever height

Everyone should learn how to change their own oil and filter and perform basic safety checks incl checking chain tension and checking tire pressure
also there are 2 capped overflow hoses that need to be drained occasionally one under left foot peg and one under FI bodies
also learn where your fuses are and brake fluid reservoirs

How To do your own 600 mile service

Adjust your headlight beam for most effectiveness

Adjusting your headlight beam

Make sure your battery bolts are clean and tight

How To remove Seat - Tool Tray- Access Battery

Check your air cleaner and either clean or replace

Air filter

know how to replace your headlight bulb

Changing the headlight bulb

Learn how to set up your suspension properly

Basic Suspension Setup Matters

 

[12cb96vfr_imp]

brake and clutch fluid. To me that's totally common & obviously necessary, but for some reason almost everyone I know with a bike has brown, dirty fluid. I can never understand that.

 

[the Ferret]

There is one tute in the How To Section on bleeding the brakes on a 2013 ABS

Brake bleed order and procedure on 2013 ABS model.

And one ( no pics unfortunately) on bleeding the clutch

CLUTCH FLUID CHANGE

 

[jeffskar_imp]

I have one very firm belief on something that takes a huge toll on many, many vehicles/motorcycles.
Getting on it, and revving it out is just fine, but wait until the motor is up to operating temperature before doing it. I see people getting off work, and simply giving whatever vehicle they're in 100% wot as soon as they hit the highway that is less than a 100 yards from the parking lot.

I run stuff hard, and frequent the drag-strip at least a dozen times a year, and will not go wot until whatever I'm driving is "up to operating temp". I realize that is sort of vague on an air cooled motorcycle that has no temp guage, but giver her 5 minutes or maybe 2-3 miles before laying into her. I'm 40 years old, and have been hot-rodding everything I've owned with a motor since I was 5, and have never had an engine failure, and this pet peave, among clean/fresh fluids and a good tune-up are what I believe gives me outrageously great results of dependability.

 

[kmoney_imp]

I have one very firm belief on something that takes a huge toll on many, many vehicles/motorcycles.
Getting on it, and revving it out is just fine, but wait until the motor is up to operating temperature before doing it. I see people getting off work, and simply giving whatever vehicle they're in 100% wot as soon as they hit the highway that is less than a 100 yards from the parking lot.

I run stuff hard, and frequent the drag-strip at least a dozen times a year, and will not go wot until whatever I'm driving is "up to operating temp". I realize that is sort of vague on an air cooled motorcycle that has no temp guage, but giver her 5 minutes or maybe 2-3 miles before laying into her. I'm 40 years old, and have been hot-rodding everything I've owned with a motor since I was 5, and have never had an engine failure, and this pet peave, among clean/fresh fluids and a good tune-up are what I believe gives me outrageously great results of dependability.

Yeah. I see this a lot too and it makes me cringe. One cool feature I remember from the older BMW M cars was the redline on the tach would start out low and increase to normal as the car warmed up. I get it was probably needed in those engines due to their design, but this would be a cool reminder feature to put on more everyday cars.

 

[dave]

I always use a high-pressure air hose to blow out the brake dust from the brake calipers and off the brake rotors. While I'm at it I give the whole bike a quick going-over with the air hose; simple, quick, and effective.

 

[redbirds_imp]

I always use a high-pressure air hose to blow out the brake dust from the brake calipers and off the brake rotors. While I'm at it I give the whole bike a quick going-over with the air hose; simple, quick, and effective.

That's a top tip Dave and I might add using the high pressure air to dry and clean the chain after using chain cleaner, then apply your favorite chain lube.

 

[Wisedrum]

I have one very firm belief on something that takes a huge toll on many, many vehicles/motorcycles.
Getting on it, and revving it out is just fine, but wait until the motor is up to operating temperature before doing it. I see people getting off work, and simply giving whatever vehicle they're in 100% wot as soon as they hit the highway that is less than a 100 yards from the parking lot.

I run stuff hard, and frequent the drag-strip at least a dozen times a year, and will not go wot until whatever I'm driving is "up to operating temp". I realize that is sort of vague on an air cooled motorcycle that has no temp guage, but giver her 5 minutes or maybe 2-3 miles before laying into her. I'm 40 years old, and have been hot-rodding everything I've owned with a motor since I was 5, and have never had an engine failure, and this pet peave, among clean/fresh fluids and a good tune-up are what I believe gives me outrageously great results of dependability.

In my opinion this is pretty too short, to warm the CB engine really up
for giving it full throttle. After 5 minutes it only remembers, that it should work now,
but somehow is still half asleep.

Wisedrum

 

[furious_blue_imp]

I have one very firm belief on something that takes a huge toll on many, many vehicles/motorcycles.
Getting on it, and revving it out is just fine, but wait until the motor is up to operating temperature before doing it. I see people getting off work, and simply giving whatever vehicle they're in 100% wot as soon as they hit the highway that is less than a 100 yards from the parking lot.

I run stuff hard, and frequent the drag-strip at least a dozen times a year, and will not go wot until whatever I'm driving is "up to operating temp". I realize that is sort of vague on an air cooled motorcycle that has no temp guage, but giver her 5 minutes or maybe 2-3 miles before laying into her. I'm 40 years old, and have been hot-rodding everything I've owned with a motor since I was 5, and have never had an engine failure, and this pet peave, among clean/fresh fluids and a good tune-up are what I believe gives me outrageously great results of dependability.

In my opinion this is pretty too short, to warm the CB engine really up
for giving it full throttle. After 5 minutes it only remembers, that it should work now,
but somehow is still half asleep.

Wisedrum

In my opinion this is pretty too short, to warm the CB engine really up
for giving it full throttle. After 5 minutes it only remembers, that it should work now,
but somehow is still half asleep.

Wisedrum
+1000 on this very good advice: don't rev up a cold engine.

I had a neighbor once that would habitually start and then rev up her CB350, wah wah wah wah... followed by a full throttle take off within 5 seconds of being started.

With less than 10k miles on it, her bike wore out a small end bushing, you cold hear the loud knocking from the loose piston..
The bike got a very early top end rebuild because of the cold revving habit.
The ball bearing parts could probably take the abuse, but not the plain bushing on the rod's piston pin side.

Oil starved bearings don't like being leaned on..

 

[Toro5xi_imp]

I second the changing of brake and clutch fluid. I try to do it on all my cars and motorcycles every 2 years regardless of miles. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and really gets nasty. I bought a vacuum pump several years ago which hooks up to the bleeder screw and makes it a simple one person job. Simply fill up the fluid reservoir and crack the bleeder screw and let the vacuum pull the fluid though.
One item I have been very lax on is the swing arm bolt which attaches the swing arm to the frame. I am rebuilding a 1993 ZX7 and had to make a drift on the lathe the exact OD size of the bolt to drive it out of the frame and swing arm. It had rusted so tightly to the swing arm bearings I was using a really large hammer to get it out. I had heard some horror stories what could happen if this bolt was not removed and greased occasionally but never had one this bad.

 

[dave]

That's a top tip Dave and I might add using the high pressure air to dry and clean the chain after using chain cleaner, then apply your favorite chain lube.
[/QUOTE]

Hi Redbirds, I do that also. I use WD40 to clean my chain; do you purchase specific chain cleaner?

 

[redbirds_imp]

That's a top tip Dave and I might add using the high pressure air to dry and clean the chain after using chain cleaner, then apply your favorite chain lube.

Hi Redbirds, I do that also. I use WD40 to clean my chain; do you purchase specific chain cleaner?
[/QUOTE]
Hi Redbirds, I do that also. I use WD40 to clean my chain; do you purchase specific chain cleaner?
[/QUOTE]

I have in the past but WD-40 is what I use now, cheaper and gets it done. I also use a soft bristle tooth brush to get in the links.

 

[Toddman_imp]

Here's a tip from the roadracing side.

Whatever you do to your bike, whether it's adjusting the chain to adjusting the valves, never ever walk away until that last bolt is torqued. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people (racers) stray away from what they were doing only to forget to tighten a bolt, nut or screw.

Finish what you start.

 

[J.W._imp]

Use paraffin to clean your chain, it is much kinder.

 

[309antonios_imp]

Chain Lubrication! Very important, and a lot of gentleman don't do it enough!

 

[Josiah_Hurt_imp]

Use Kerosene to clean your chain. Use a grunge brush and also use a grease ninja to lube. I can clean and lube my chain in 5 minutes or less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Birddogvet_imp]

Kerosene= Paraffin= WD40.