Warm-Up proceedure?

My father was a Navy Hellcat pilot in WWII. He schooled me on many things as I grew up. One thing that he always said was to warm up your engine for 1 minute at idle before subjecting the internal parts to a load. I have followed his advice for 50 years without any engine failures or excessive wear issues covering many different type vehicles. Nuff said.
 
peterbaron_imp said:
OK, but my Canadian version always idles at 1100 when fully warmed up.
popgun
Lives On Two Wheels
Joined: Apr 2013
RE: CB1100 Idle speed instability problem
Idle speed specification is 1100 +- 100rpm

quoting popgun from the uneven idle thread

Fully warmed up, mine idles at 1000 rpms, so it is in spec
 
yes....anywhere between 1000 and 1200 rpms would technically be in spec
 
A CB1100 cold start-up will handle anything I threw at it. Maybe with -25C ambient air temperature, it could take two or three (instead up to one) major intersections before idle would settle back to the popgun standard.

In fact, if I ever had trouble maintaining CB1100 idle, it would be on the really hot, humid days after stopping at a gas station to refuel after a long ride. Sometimes the engine needed a little throttle finesse to keep from stalling.
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
A CB1100 cold start-up will handle anything I threw at it. Maybe with -25C ambient air temperature, it could take two or three (instead up to one) major intersections before idle would settle back to the popgun standard.

In fact, if I ever had trouble maintaining CB1100 idle, it would be on the really hot, humid days after stopping at a gas station to refuel after a long ride. Sometimes the engine needed a little throttle finesse to keep from stalling.
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
 
btw.

I thought at least today's cars have 2 cooling water circuits, a small inner one for faster heating of the most important points and then a larger outer one
 
m in sc_imp said:
quick article about oil. not driven by environmental guidelines.

What Is the Optimum Engine Oil Temperature?



Quote:as in idle the motor would need much longer to warm up the oil, thus the time of extra wear out would be prolonged.
and THATS exactly why they have a fast idle protocol.

I mean, not like i'm an engineer or anything....
and THATS exactly why they have a fast idle protocol.

I mean, not like i'm an engineer or anything....
So you are saying that a fast idle is a good thing for warm up, but a smooth drive is not. So 1100rpm is bad when cold. 2000 rpm with minimum load is bad when cold, and 1300rpm is good when cold.

Even that on the honda handbook (at least on mine) says nothing about letting it idle for a few minutes when cold, and on every modern vehicle (car or bike) handbook I've seen, they state not to let it idle and recommend to drive right away.

For me, the need to idle for warm-up is something from the past. With new oils and new manufacturing technology (much better materials, coatiings and tolerances, for example), I think it is pretty much useless as best.
alprider_imp said:
btw.

I thought at least today's cars have 2 cooling water circuits, a small inner one for faster heating of the most important points and then a larger outer one
They have one circuit, but with a bypass regulated by a thermostatic valve which allows the water to by-pass the water cooler (radiator).

https://images.cdn.circlesix.co/ima...icles/suzuki_cooling_system-572374e7a8f8d.jpg
 
in short: it gets warm faster without a water cooler/ radiator ....:).. or , so you have to drive and not to wait on place with running engine
The ferret_imp said:
Ok I timed mine today Pulled her out, fired it up and hit the stopwatch. A little over 2 mins in idle dropped from 1500 to 1250 rpms 2 1/2 more minutes in it had dropped down to 1100 rpms. I took off and when I reached the end of the street 7/10 mile away at 25-30 mph it had dropped to 1000. So about 5 mins from start up to idle.
or

if you drive direct after fireup...you have with gentle driving way 2000-2500rpms...just this is the warming up procedur...:P



with planes it is probably something else, I think for safety reasons the oil must definitely be at full operating temperature first. to have

.
 
pdedse_imp said:
GoldOxide_imp said:
A CB1100 cold start-up will handle anything I threw at it. Maybe with -25C ambient air temperature, it could take two or three (instead up to one) major intersections before idle would settle back to the popgun standard.

In fact, if I ever had trouble maintaining CB1100 idle, it would be on the really hot, humid days after stopping at a gas station to refuel after a long ride. Sometimes the engine needed a little throttle finesse to keep from stalling.
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
I would say almost every time after a long, hot and humid ride, particularly getting off the freeway (maybe after 75 to 90 minutes of freeway droning) and refueling, and then resuming the ride.

During the engine restart, the engine struggled with the fresh, cold fuel. Blipping the throttle - which was typically unusual for the mighty inline-4 - was required to maintain minimum idle RPM.

I never thought much about it to be honest and reckon it was par for the course under those conditions. There was no misfiring or rough idle and once in motion, it was like nothing happened.
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
pdedse_imp said:
GoldOxide_imp said:
A CB1100 cold start-up will handle anything I threw at it. Maybe with -25C ambient air temperature, it could take two or three (instead up to one) major intersections before idle would settle back to the popgun standard.

In fact, if I ever had trouble maintaining CB1100 idle, it would be on the really hot, humid days after stopping at a gas station to refuel after a long ride. Sometimes the engine needed a little throttle finesse to keep from stalling.
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
I would say almost every time after a long, hot and humid ride, particularly getting off the freeway (maybe after 75 to 90 minutes of freeway droning) and refueling, and then resuming the ride.

During the engine restart, the engine struggled with the fresh, cold fuel. Blipping the throttle - which was typically unusual for the mighty inline-4 - was required to maintain minimum idle RPM.

I never thought much about it to be honest and reckon it was par for the course under those conditions. There was no misfiring or rough idle and once in motion, it was like nothing happened.
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
I would say almost every time after a long, hot and humid ride, particularly getting off the freeway (maybe after 75 to 90 minutes of freeway droning) and refueling, and then resuming the ride.

During the engine restart, the engine struggled with the fresh, cold fuel. Blipping the throttle - which was typically unusual for the mighty inline-4 - was required to maintain minimum idle RPM.

I never thought much about it to be honest and reckon it was par for the course under those conditions. There was no misfiring or rough idle and once in motion, it was like nothing happened.
I find the mention of a hot, humid riding day and the gas fill interesting. My '14 Standard had the high/low idle issue. I clearly remember the first time it happened--after a relatively long ride on a hot, more humid than normal day, and just after filling with gas and then restarting. Except that the idle was high, shot up to 17-1800, but then stayed there for the ride home. From there, high / low idle issues plagued me for about 5 months, nearly every ride. Ended up trading the bike in. I've often wondered if hot/humid riding followed by gas fill didn't triggered something that got stuck.
 
pdedse_imp said:
GoldOxide_imp said:
pdedse_imp said:
GoldOxide_imp said:
A CB1100 cold start-up will handle anything I threw at it. Maybe with -25C ambient air temperature, it could take two or three (instead up to one) major intersections before idle would settle back to the popgun standard.

In fact, if I ever had trouble maintaining CB1100 idle, it would be on the really hot, humid days after stopping at a gas station to refuel after a long ride. Sometimes the engine needed a little throttle finesse to keep from stalling.
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
I would say almost every time after a long, hot and humid ride, particularly getting off the freeway (maybe after 75 to 90 minutes of freeway droning) and refueling, and then resuming the ride.

During the engine restart, the engine struggled with the fresh, cold fuel. Blipping the throttle - which was typically unusual for the mighty inline-4 - was required to maintain minimum idle RPM.

I never thought much about it to be honest and reckon it was par for the course under those conditions. There was no misfiring or rough idle and once in motion, it was like nothing happened.
Gold...are you saying this happened periodically?
I would say almost every time after a long, hot and humid ride, particularly getting off the freeway (maybe after 75 to 90 minutes of freeway droning) and refueling, and then resuming the ride.

During the engine restart, the engine struggled with the fresh, cold fuel. Blipping the throttle - which was typically unusual for the mighty inline-4 - was required to maintain minimum idle RPM.

I never thought much about it to be honest and reckon it was par for the course under those conditions. There was no misfiring or rough idle and once in motion, it was like nothing happened.
I find the mention of a hot, humid riding day and the gas fill interesting. My '14 Standard had the high/low idle issue. I clearly remember the first time it happened--after a relatively long ride on a hot, more humid than normal day, and just after filling with gas and then restarting. Except that the idle was high, shot up to 17-1800, but then stayed there for the ride home. From there, high / low idle issues plagued me for about 5 months, nearly every ride. Ended up trading the bike in. I've often wondered if hot/humid riding followed by gas fill didn't triggered something that got stuck.
That could be true, and I have thought about that many times. In the heat of the moment, I was more concerned of stalling ignition and maybe flooding the engine. It never happened (I don't think :-/ ), but it was a hassle to get the lump back up to normal idle range. Maybe after that, some sensor was "reset", and life continued as normal on the CB1100. In any case, the best way I could describe it was the engine felt for about 10 seconds that it was running very rich.
 
or is the petrol line empty (everything evaporates) after a fast long hot ride when the petrol pump suddenly stops working ?
 
alprider_imp said:
or is the petrol line empty (everything evaporates) after a fast long hot ride when the petrol pump suddenly stops working ?
Pressurized fuel (FI around 55psi) does not evaporate , cos has no room to escape. After shut off, fuel pump's check valve is closed , so is injector(s). When shut off and hot, it may build up some more pressure, physics, normality. 0.02
:beerchug:
 
today I rode the liquid cooled workhorse. pulled it out, fired it up and in 2 minutes it had dropped from fast idle to low idle.
 
The ferret_imp said:
Ok I timed mine today Pulled her out, fired it up and hit the stopwatch. A little over 2 mins in idle dropped from 1500 to 1250 rpms 2 1/2 more minutes in it had dropped down to 1100 rpms. I took off and when I reached the end of the street 7/10 mile away at 25-30 mph it had dropped to 1000. So about 5 mins from start up to idle.
40d9c370e4cb9c141d7e099a1142272c.jpg
 
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