Valve Clearances tightening

Joe since you're here i'm interested which shim sizes you have stocked up on and how many?

I start at 1.90 and step with 0.025 up to 2.175 with 5 of each, they also fit under my cb919 and the cb1000r in mostly the same thickness sizes and live under an oil film, last thing i want is a rusty shim to throw the measurement off, should i get some more?
 
LakeWylieJoe_imp said:
You are correct. They don't wear, residing as they do below the bucket and above the stem and spring assembly. They merely get squeezed once every other crank rotation, and they are made of very hard metal.
Enclosed is the MS Excel shim calculator I use, if anyone wants to try it. You enter the measured clearances and the installed shim thickness and it calculates the new shims needed. It's laid out like the valves are in the head so you can keep all the numbers organized.

You can always copy and paste the calculations lower on the page each time you do a service so you have a record of what each valve does over time.
Let's try that again. The spreadsheet previously sent wasn't ready for prime time. This one is.
Not on the CB1100 with the small under-bucket shims. I meant the 25mm diameter over-the-bucket shims as on CBX.
 
I made a small box to hold my CB1100 specialty items (cam chain tension release tool, shims, etc.).

See the attached photos, including one of the shims I have on hand. It seems like nearly every shim that came with the bike was the same size, which speaks volumes about how precise the machining must be at the factory.
 
Neat box. Man, the edges of those shims look rough, do they in person?
 
Now that you say that, yeah, the edges aren't nearly as smooth as the top/bottom surfaces. Many of those shims are right out of the Honda packaging (never used).
 
Talk about very precise, that is artisan work mate, a box within a box...
Even the fabric is cut to a precision fit, well done Joe and yes that answers my question precisely, right sizes and amounts as i worked out from various posts.
Handy to know because ideally you want the shims to be right at hand during the job instead of having the bike sit for 3 weeks with the top off and the cams out.
And thanks to the forum we now know what to order to be ready and motivated by your pictures i made one of my little 7.48 mm. shims all lined up for a group photo and valve check sheet;





Also made a note of the amount of turns the cam chain adjuster is inserted to keep an eye on chain wear over time.
Thanks again Joe
 
You can PB! But you have to ride to New Zealand...

PS, they’re still working on that bridge ;)
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
You can PB! But you have to ride to New Zealand...

PS, they’re still working on that bridge ;)
I know, I know...I do everything by myself, except tires.
Just remember, we still have to flush our brake/clutch fluid.
...and as to that bridge, ASA it opens, first I will have to visit Cormanus, then MAX..:)
 
Peter , if you need to replace the brake and clutch fluid I would strongly recommend putting Speed Bleeder Products SB8125 SS M8 1.25 stainless steel bleeders on the brakes and clutch . Very easy to do : leave the covers on the reservoirs , take the old bleeder of and put the new ones in AND than remove the covers. VERY little fluid will come out if no air comes in and therefor no mess . Than you can use a vacuum bleeder to get the old fluid out and when you fill up with new fluid before the reservoir is empty than no air into the system . You probably know all this stuff anyway !!!
 
Why replace the existing bleeders if you are going to use a vacuum bleeder? I've never changed the brake fluid so I'm curious.
 
You should change the fluids every 2 years and by using the stainless steel bleeders you never have to worry about them rusting into the caliper. The reason I use the vacuum bleeder with an air compressor because I have them in my garage . If you do NOT have them than a speed bleeder is easier than a normal bleeder , just pump by hand and no air will get back into the lines. Please Cormanus , do change your fluids on your bikes and not just in your body ! CHEERS !!!
 
Houtman, :rofl: I don't seem to have much choice about changing the fluids in my body.

I meant I've never personally changed the brake and clutch fluid preferring to entrust the task to a mechanic. Maybe I'll man up and have a go next time.
 
Cormanus , I thought that you never had the fluids replaced at all but I see that you delegate it to your mechanic while you drink beer ! You are smarter than me ....
 
Houtman_imp said:
Peter , if you need to replace the brake and clutch fluid I would strongly recommend putting Speed Bleeder Products SB8125 SS M8 1.25 stainless steel bleeders on the brakes and clutch . Very easy to do : leave the covers on the reservoirs , take the old bleeder of and put the new ones in AND than remove the covers. VERY little fluid will come out if no air comes in and therefor no mess . Than you can use a vacuum bleeder to get the old fluid out and when you fill up with new fluid before the reservoir is empty than no air into the system . You probably know all this stuff anyway !!!
:D, I have vacuum bleeder and compressor handy...how to do it , has been in my head for the last 4 decades.
Make sure, You always have a bottle to two of cold beer in case if my CB gets stuck near your property or I get thirsty !!:shy:
 
He that could be fun Peter, when you come over to my place we can do the shims and i can then hop on the back of your bike and drive over to Cormanus and have a beer each whilst we watch him change it, make "useful" comments and, tell him some of our trade secrets:P
We just have to be careful not to mistake the beer for brake fluid, i hear it tastes different but looks the same, does brake fluid have foam on top?
 
You speak the truth about mixing fluids, so is better if we do the job(s) first, meanwhile keep Houtman away from the beer case, and then all three have fun :D
 
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