V-Star 650 Classic

Bheezy27403_imp

Road warrior
Thread starter
My buddy just purchased said bike to get back in the saddle after quite a long hiatus from riding. He had been looking for a while and found an '03 in nearby King NC. He doesn't know much about bikes or have his license so I went with him yesterday to test ride/ride home if it was worth the $1500 asking price.

Bike was in decent shape for a 17 year old bike. Only 8325 on the clock which concerned me. The PO was a diesel mechanic and had kept it up. New plugs and oil change recently. He only ran 93 non-ethanol which had saved the carbs from gumming up. One drawback...original tires. I was not to thrilled about having to take this thing back to my house (storing it there until he does his msf course and gets it insured) at 75-80 down the highway.

In the end it all checked out and he purchased the bike. I did a short test ride to get acquainted. The levers are very far from the grips and I have small hands (so does my buddy) so that will have to be addressed. The friction point on the clutch is at the very end of the throw for the lever so it is very hard to get out of first smoothly. That can be adjusted but it may need a new clutch. I felt some slipping when I got on it for an Italian tune up. What's up with the speedo on the tank? You basically have to look at your crotch to check speed. I would not get used to that. Valve checks every 4000 miles I believe which is crazy so that will have to be done. The tires will need to be replaced and were about 15 lbs down on front and back.

On the highway home it settled in nicely at 75. No problem keeping up with traffic and still had a little more go above 80 but it got a little vibey up there. There is a little windshield that kept wind off my chest. No buffeting but the wind goes right under my helmet line which is a tad noisy. Seemed to stay fairly planted at speed over bumps. I believe once sorted he will be comfortable chewing up some miles on it.

Bottom line. Not a cruiser guy. Never have been. Never will be. I just don't feel comfortable without my legs under me. The 650 is a bit of a dog (being nice here) but if it gets my pal out on the road with me and we can do a couple camping trips this spring, good for him. I'll stick with standards and my little CBR.
 
To me it sounds that your friend made a mistake . I would also never ride cruiser , bad for my back and I feel less control of the bike , but that is me ….
 
Thread starter
He's a cruiser guy. Likes hair bands and Miller lite so it fits him. He's also a bit vertically challenged so the low seat height of the cruiser appeals to him.

I've done a bit of reading on the V Star forum and I believe it just needs adjusted. I agree, it shouldn't need a new kit with the low mileage but there definitely is some slippage.
 
Could be the oil, too. If it were mine, I'd replace the oil with whatever the factory recommends and see if that resolves the slipping.
 
yea who knows what a diesel mechanic put in there
 
Agree with Long Ranger and Ferret. Before changing the clutch, you might call the previous owner and ask him what kind of oil he used and if any additives. It's possible he used a synthetic or synthetic blend with moly which might cause clutch slippage.

Draining the oil and filter into a clean pan may also let you know if the clutch is burnt if there is an acrid smell or clutch material in the oil. STP or other additives might cause the slippage too.

It's rare to hear of a burnt clutch on bikes these days.
 
I can report as a former 99 650 owner . It was my first bike and I put 41k on it ! Thing ran like a new bike as it should if cared for . As far as the clutch goes the lever far out for friction zone is very normal on that bike . It’s very odd but you get used to it and the funny thing about it is you can do a slight pull in for shifting and not have to go all the way to the grip etc. as far as slipping goes I find it hard to believe the clutch is bad already . Double check the oil weight as 20w50 is the norm for oil not 10w30 like ours . Friction modifiers will kill that clutch . Also when it’s tine for tires do a search for the 650 spline lube procedure while shaft assembly is off during tire change . You need Honda moly 60 lube and it’s so overlooked on those it’s must to do . Other than that a very tough bike and reliable . My valves never came out of spec in those miles. I had lots of fun on it and went everywhere with it . Great memories and a great bike !


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Thanks greekcb. That's a helpful testament to the bike's inherent goodness. Were you speaking of the wheel splines, or taking off the final drive to access driveshaft splines? Or both.
 
pekingduck_imp said:
Thanks greekcb. That's a helpful testament to the bike's inherent goodness. Were you speaking of the wheel splines, or taking off the final drive to access driveshaft splines? Or both.
No problemo. There's a few spots to lube, 2 obvious points are end of shaft that goes into transmission area and the ones on wheel hub to "pumpkin". But, the ones that totally get overlooked unless you've been floating around on the forums and hear about it is when you undo the 4 nuts in the middle of the shaft housing assembly where you'll find the other end of the driveshaft that goes into a coupler. That joint needs it as well. Honda Moly 60 is the proper lube for it. Not cheap, like 20-30 bucks for a little tube of it if i recall but it lasts forever etc. Let me try to dig up a DIY on the lubing.
Ok here it is !

https://www.650ccnd.com/shaft2.htm

The 650 star community is such a great group of guys like here and there are so many resources for mod and maintenance info. That site is golden. One other thought, don't forget about the shaft oil change. Super easy to do as well. just a drain/fill hole plug job with about a half quart of gear oil. Hope this helps
 
There is a huge thread on Honda Moly 60 on the ST1300 owners(ST-owners.com) board. They are technical there. The Honda Moly 60 isn't available anymore. Honda has a different moly paste they say is ok. But it does not match the characteristics of the moly 60. Does it matter? I don’t know. But it has a LOT less than the 60% called for.

I decided to go with one of the substitutes they recommended. Loctite moly paste. It is 65%. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HW...UTF8&psc=1

The comments even mention the ST1300.

Good luck and as always, YMMV
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
All my shaft drives were never more complicated than drainin' and fillin' the hypoid gear oil. That exercise was quite rare.
I've never done mine, yet :P
:)
 
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