Unhealthy Engine Knock / Noise

[pekingduck]

Just curious Phil. You mentioned the problem occurred after the first oil change at 600 miles. Was that when you put on the K&N filter? I see in the video an OEM filter was in place. Was that replaced later?

I would also recommend using a mechanical stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise source. They're cheap ($4 at Harbor Freight) and very effective.

 

[Nightengale_imp]

Any resolution on this issue since you first posted?

 

[spakins_imp]

No resolution yet. Been traveling for work. I am actually trailering the bike to the dealer today. I will circle back with status when I have more.

 

[Oldhondaguy_imp]

This is an old thread, but I'll add my two cents. I had a similar knock/rattle from the engine that appeared around 18,000 miles on my 2013 CB1100. It would rattle on startup and then disappear after about 20 seconds. At around 19,000 miles it seemed to be getting worse, so I checked this forum. I saw CuryJoe's comment about the balancer backlash adjustment. I did this adjustment (5 min) and it solved the problem. The adjustment is on p. 11-33 of the 2013 service manual.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Cormanus]

Welcome Oldhondaguy.

 

[Stichill]

Cool. Welcome Oldhondaguy.

 

[SportsterDoc]

If the service manual is not available:

Loosen the balancer shaft holder pinch bolt. Turn the balance shaft counterclockwise until resistance is felt, then back it off three graduations using the punch mark as a measure.

Warm up the engine and let it idle. If balancer gear noises are excessive, adjust the balancer backlash as follows:

Turn the balance gear shaft counterclockwise until the gears begin to make a "whining" noise. Then turn the gear shaft clockwise until the gear "whining" noise disappears.

Tighten the balancer shaft pinch bolt. After all gear backlash adjustments are done, snap the throttle and make sure the gear noises are not excessive.

If the gear "whine" noise is excessive, the backlash is too small. If the gear "rattling" noise is excessive, the backlash is excessive.

 

[2017EX_imp]

Back in the day, the composite wheel on the cam chain tensioner that rides against the cam chain was somewhat notorious for wearing down, resulting in cam chain slap/knock. Another source of noise back then was valve tappets out of adjustment. That said, and from what I saw in your video, it would appear that the noise is loudest on the lower front right portion of the crankcase, where the back lash adjustment is located, so I would have to agree with curlyjoe and sportsterdoc that the back lash adjustment is the more likely culprit. As others have mentioned, K&N filters have not had a very good reputation lately, and have led to oil leaks that others have also posted about. I always use the specified Honda OEM filter, as I do not want any question about an off brand filter potentially causing an engine problem down the road.

 

[peterbaron]

No resolution yet. Been traveling for work. I am actually trailering the bike to the dealer today. I will circle back with status when I have more.

Houtman:
"It would be nice and useful to all of us that after a problem is solved the original poster comes back to the Forum and tell us the outcome. Many times we never hear anything again !"

... ^ + and what is the final resolution, Spakins???

 

[Cormanus]

Good luck getting an answer, peter. Spakins hasn't been here for nearly 18 months.

 

[kklandzw_imp]

Has the problem been solved?

 

[corso_imp]

Svp
Je remonte ce vieux post parceque
Je commence à avoir le probleme
Sur ma moto.
Pouvez vous me dire où ce trouve le reglage dont vous avez parlè.
Merci.

Per Google:

please
I'm going back to this old post because
I'm starting to have the problem
On my motorcycle.
Can you tell me where this setting is that you mentioned.
Thank you.

 

[max]

In this video after two minutes the adjustment is made.

Look at right side of engine below crankshaft there is a balancer shaft.
Loosen 10mm m6 bolt that clamps the balancer shaft.
Mark the position of the shaft with a marker pen.
start engine and slowly rotate counter clockwise, listen for the "whine" ( bad noise ) STOP and rotate clockwise 20 degrees.
tighten up the 10mm m6 bolt that clamps the balancer shaft.
Finished.

Most people never adjust this and a lot of bikes make a little noise, it also makes a difference what oil is used, a few riders notice that after the first oil change this noise starts.
Here is what's inside, the balancer shaft is excentric and you are adjusting the space between the gearwheel teeth by rotating the shaft closer to the main gearwheel on the crankshaft;



The balancer shaft rotates in the opposite direction to the main shaft and reduces vibration, this identical system is employed on the cb1300 which has a similar engine.

 

[max]

Whilst riding yesterday i had a thought about this noise that sometimes appears when the oil was changed by several members;

The eccentric shaft is also hollow and has oil pressure eminating in the middle of the balancer, it rides on an oil film similar to the crank shaft, so if the viscosity changes the balancer can have a different amount of play between the gear teeth and the shaft.

And like all other moving mechanical parts it would wear in and and thus have some additional play after some miles.

Just adjusted mine yesterday and i did notice that the "tick tick" noise around 1500 rpm has almost disappeared, it started creeping in at 39.000 km and although it did not worry me it's still better not to have to listen to it.

When making the adjustment try to get it so the noise is barely there, too tight and it may wear out too soon and start loosing oil pressure.......