TPS Sourcing because of High Idle

[Nachodaddy]

Now I am thoroughly confused.
I know I installed part number 38770-MGC-A24 purchased from Partzilla, replacing pn 38770-MGC-A23.
The Partsfish that Lord Popgun references above shows the pn as 38770-MGC-A43, not A23 or A24.
Obi-wan Kenobi has found a part number 38770-MGC-A42, which I also find Partzilla claiming is the correct part for the 2014.
When I originally ordered the A23 from Partzilla, all they were selling was the A24, which worked fine and looked identical to the part it replaced, the A23.
I remain confused, but, if Partzilla is saying the A42 (not A24) is the right one, you might want to call and ask them about the transposition of the numbers.
Or just do as PowerDubs suggests.

 

[Cormanus]

Nachodaddy, I think the answer is that A23 is the part number for the 2013 bike and A42 is the part number for the 2014 standard model. The 2014 DLX part number ends with A73.

 

[Obi-wan Kenobi_imp]

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.

....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

There is no validity as that is NOT a test.

As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.

Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.

 

[Nachodaddy]

Thanks guys. I jumped the gun to think that there was only one ECU programmed for all the models. Of course different years, locations and transmissions and lots of other things are involved. Still, it is strange to me that different years and configurations of the bike (five speed, six speed, etc.) have the same problem and it is resolved by replacing the IACV or the ECU.

 

[Obi-wan Kenobi_imp]

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.

....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

There is no validity as that is NOT a test.

As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.

Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.

I didnt know the right terminology. I was trying to say to reflash the original version that the bike came with.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.

....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

There is no validity as that is NOT a test.

As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.

Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.

I dont think it is accurate to say "waste of money". I think that might be a good option for someone who is not comfortable with doing it themselves. I really dont need all that. I would be 100% satisfied with just fixing the idle problem. I really enjoy the bike even without those improved aspects.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.

....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.

Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:

Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.

PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)

My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).

I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.

If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?

The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.

Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :CB1100 idle speed instability repair advice
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?

There is no validity as that is NOT a test.

As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.

Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.

Test (Noun)
a critical examination, observation, or evaluation : TRIAL

It kind of is a test. I wanted to observe what the RPMs would be. I wanted to know what would happen if the ECU does not know that the clutch is engaged. It might not raise the RPM to 2,000 like it has been.

I was not saying that this will fix the issue, nor did I say that the clutch switch would be causing the problem. I am trying to confirm that the ECU is the problem by performing tests on my bike specifically.

Maybe it is a dumb idea. Ill own that, but it is free and maybe I will learn something.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

I can test my tire pressure- doesn't mean it is the reason my washing machine won't drain.

First part of 'critical examination' is for it to be critical- not just randomly throwing bananas around.

If you want to spend $500+ for a stock ECU- that you can now literally have the exact same result for <$50... not even counting the other possible benefits...you do you.

Have fun!!

 

[Cormanus]

That’s a fine example of ‘throwing bananas around’, Dubs, but not a good or helpful analogy. It would be friendlier if you explained how it is you and others here know the clutch sensor is not the issue nor related to it.

As for reflashing the ECU, for most of us lay folk it’s both a mystery and a big deal. Taking the word of some random dude on the Internet that you can do it easily on the cheap may be just as smart as believing testing your tyre pressure unblocked the washing machine.

 

[Nachodaddy]

In regards to the clutch being involved somehow, I have some new information which may help. My problem started after I spent many mornings riding at slow speed in a parking lot, slipping the clutch and using the rear brake to go slow while I practiced U-turns and circles.Each day I would do this for about half an hour. I am not sure how long( a couple of weeks, maybe a month) it was after I started doing this before the slow idle and then the fast idle started, but it might well have been related to the constant clutch pressure.
There seem to be so many factors involved that complicate the whole problem.
I have stopped the slow-ride practice, just in case.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

In regards to the clutch being involved somehow, I have some new information which may help. My problem started after I spent many mornings riding at slow speed in a parking lot, slipping the clutch and using the rear brake to go slow while I practiced U-turns and circles.Each day I would do this for about half an hour. I am not sure how long( a couple of weeks, maybe a month) it was after I started doing this before the slow idle and then the fast idle started, but it might well have been related to the constant clutch pressure.
There seem to be so many factors involved that complicate the whole problem.
I have stopped the slow-ride practice, just in case.

Again- correlation /= causation.


Low speed using the clutch just induced a situation with low speeds...does NOT mean the clutch switch itself is any fault / cause.

The ECU is the brain- it looks at inputs then outputs based on that.

If it sees the idle drop- it doesn't care why- doesn't care about the clutch any more than it would if you were dragging the back brake. All it cares is- RPM should be higher-and it TRIES to adjust both air and fuel to compensate. There are probably a LOT of parts involved- idle control valve, intake air temp, airbox manifold pressure, throttle angle, heck- even oil temp...maybe more.. unplug any of those could make a difference at that moment- without meaning that part was the failure reason.

It is entirely possible the original IACV design may have had some issues- but it is just as likely and seems to be the case that the parameters of feedback range before things go south was not appropriate either.

I work in a completely unrelated field- other than the fact that my job entails complex arrays of computers, actuators, and sensors on a WIDE variety of diverse products.

I have seen first hand more times than I can count, pushed out on TSB (technical service bulletins)- new software revisions to 'adjust' (loosen range / specs) that the computer is looking at before fault.

And @cormanus- 'friendly' is an opinion. Some people get upset at facts- where others understand reality and think nothing of it. I'm more of a suck it up buttercup kinda guy. I'm more than willing to help people- it's up to them to listen.

You say - " It would be friendlier if you explained how it is you and others here know the clutch sensor is not the issue nor related to it."

Yet- you discount that we took our time to give advice at all. It's not up to you to judge and comment on how YOU think we should give it. Especially when you didn't contribute to the solution.

None of us are employed here to teach a class. We aren't getting paid. We do it all for the love of the bike and the community. People are free to do what they want... some good, some bad.

Heck- how many people coming her to ask for help have even started with class 101 and bought a repair manual for this bike?

I'll 100% admit I am more mechanical than electronic- but if Max or Popgun gives me advice- I'll read it, chose my path and go on- I don't come back and comment- judge their personality...

 

[Obi-wan Kenobi_imp]

Just wanted to say I a do appreciate everyone's suggestions/contributions. I think everyone goes about investigating/solving these issues differently. I am trying to find a way that works for me.

Right now I am researching how to re-write the ECU myself. Let me know if I understand all this correctly. Basically I need a cable that connects my bike to my laptop which is able to translate the signals correctly. I found the normal OBD2 type devices do not work on pre-2017 bikes.

I have learned that my 2014 Standard has a 4-pin connector on the left side of my bike. I found two options for cables/adapters: the Healtech reader and the Honda HDS tester. They seem to range from $6 to $200. The cheap ones being from Aliexpress. Has anyone tried the something like the below? I would need to get the 4 pin adapter in addition to that.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256....product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

As for the "Flash data" or whatever it is called. I would need the 38770-MGC-A42. PowerDubs mentioned "1973cb750 has a copy of my 2013 Part #38770-MGC-A23 ECU and Part #38770-MGC-A24 ECU." Does anyone have info on how get a copy of the 38770-MGC-A42 or 38770-MGC-A43?

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Cable kit- Honda Motorcycle Kit

Note that the blue cable, once I received it and looked at the label- is just a generic Vagcom cable.

I have several authentic vagcom VCDS cables from decades of owning VW/Audi so I tried one of my old ones- and it worked fine.

So if you have one already- you would just need this- Honda Motorcycle Adapter

Here is the software needed to read & write the ECU file- HondaFlasher - Honda PGM-FI ECU Reflash

Tuning software- not needed if you are just loading new files provided by 1973cb750 or other people- TunerPro and TunerPro RT - Professional Automobile Tuning Software

 

[Obi-wan Kenobi_imp]

Cable kit- Honda Motorcycle Kit

Note that the blue cable, once I received it and looked at the label- is just a generic Vagcom cable.

I have several authentic vagcom VCDS cables from decades of owning VW/Audi so I tried one of my old ones- and it worked fine.

So if you have one already- you would just need this- Honda Motorcycle Adapter

Here is the software needed to read & write the ECU file- HondaFlasher - Honda PGM-FI ECU Reflash

Tuning software- not needed if you are just loading new files provided by 1973cb750 or other people- TunerPro and TunerPro RT - Professional Automobile Tuning Software

Thanks. Those links are very helpful. Did some more research, and the process makes sense to me.

Ill have to decide on what ECU file to use. To fix the idle issue, would it make sense to Read the file from the bike and then Write the same file? I am not sure if the ECU file on the bike is corrupted in some way. The thought is that the ECU file was fine at some point, and if the code on it has not changed then this might work the same as flashing an OEM file that I get from somewhere else.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Send a msg to 1973cb750 and see what files he has. Hopefully by now he has a copy of the newest update Honda made.

Re flashing the same thing would- make the same thing.

 

[Obi-wan Kenobi_imp]

Hi All,

Just wanted to update the thread. I got the file I was planning on using. Life got busy lately, so I put off actually implementing the fix.

The past couple months I have been riding my motorcycle 5+ days a week and have experienced the issue maybe once or twice. Not sure why, but the issue is happening infrequent enough that I can live with it. If the issue begins happening more frequently in the future, I might re-write the ECU. Then I will let you guys know the results.

Thanks to all.

 

[Aleksandr_imp]

Hello There,

My CB1100 has been experiencing high idle issues similar to other on this forum. I have spent a good amount of time reading posts hoping that someone has already figured this out for me. But I could not find someone with the exact same symptoms.

The problem I experience is that the idle RPM is about 1,500 with the clutch fully in, and the idle RPM is about 2,000 when partially out (But still dis-engaged). I have learned to ride with using two fingers to pull in the clutch. This results in my other fingers behind the clutch. When the clutch is in this position, the engine is at 2,000 RPM.

I dont think that the problem is related to the IACV because when I first start the engine it warms up at 1500 RPM and then settles at 1100 RPM. Only when I start riding does the idle never drop below 1500 RPM (clutch fully in) or 2000 RPM (clutch in with two fingers)

I think that the problem is related to the TPS because when I ride with it unplugged, the engine idles right at 1000-1100 RPM. My theory is that there is something wrong with the middle zone of the sensor. At 1500 RPM idle I get 0.5 v from the signal line, and I get 5 v on the power line.

The help I need is sourcing a new TPS. I tried cross referencing compatible part numbers and bought one for $16. That one rotated the wrong way and was no good for me. I ended up taking the OEM one off the bike, and then put it back on. Does anyone know a compatible TPS part number?

I had thought it was: 16402-REJ-W01
Compatible part numbers per random Ebay listing:
Manufacturer Part Number
16402 REJ W01, 16402 REJ 003, 16402 PWA 003

Interchange Part Number:
JT7H, JT7H20410, TPS008-03, TPS113, GEGT7610-158, 16402-RAA-A01, 16402-RAC-A01, TPS-H112, TPS-H113, JT6HB, T42002, 16402-RAA-A02, 16402-REJ-W01, T42004, 977-024, HAJT7HARK

Any other ideas are welcome. Maybe my brain is fried from thinking about this too much.

Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner . It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner (see the file). It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.

 

[peterbaron]

Hello There,

My CB1100 has been experiencing high idle issues similar to other on this forum. I have spent a good amount of time reading posts hoping that someone has already figured this out for me. But I could not find someone with the exact same symptoms.

The problem I experience is that the idle RPM is about 1,500 with the clutch fully in, and the idle RPM is about 2,000 when partially out (But still dis-engaged). I have learned to ride with using two fingers to pull in the clutch. This results in my other fingers behind the clutch. When the clutch is in this position, the engine is at 2,000 RPM.

I dont think that the problem is related to the IACV because when I first start the engine it warms up at 1500 RPM and then settles at 1100 RPM. Only when I start riding does the idle never drop below 1500 RPM (clutch fully in) or 2000 RPM (clutch in with two fingers)

I think that the problem is related to the TPS because when I ride with it unplugged, the engine idles right at 1000-1100 RPM. My theory is that there is something wrong with the middle zone of the sensor. At 1500 RPM idle I get 0.5 v from the signal line, and I get 5 v on the power line.

The help I need is sourcing a new TPS. I tried cross referencing compatible part numbers and bought one for $16. That one rotated the wrong way and was no good for me. I ended up taking the OEM one off the bike, and then put it back on. Does anyone know a compatible TPS part number?

I had thought it was: 16402-REJ-W01
Compatible part numbers per random Ebay listing:
Manufacturer Part Number
16402 REJ W01, 16402 REJ 003, 16402 PWA 003

Interchange Part Number:
JT7H, JT7H20410, TPS008-03, TPS113, GEGT7610-158, 16402-RAA-A01, 16402-RAC-A01, TPS-H112, TPS-H113, JT6HB, T42002, 16402-RAA-A02, 16402-REJ-W01, T42004, 977-024, HAJT7HARK

Any other ideas are welcome. Maybe my brain is fried from thinking about this too much.

Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner . It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner (see the file). It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.

Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner . It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner (see the file). It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.
This is called diagnosis!
However, intermittent poor contact diagnosis or repairs are not easy, especially for people of a different trade.
Even for a professional tech who finds poor contact without any corrosion or oxidation is a puzzle as he has no evidence to show what was wrong.
In my trade, I deal often with situation like this.
Patience, focussing or knowing what to do will lead one, not necessary a professional, to successful repair.
Rush is never a good advisor.
Alexandr, thank you for your response .
:beerchug:

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Basic electrical impairments is very common across any domain that has machines, whether in transport or warehouse industrial. Environment atmosphere and humidity play a significant role.

Case in point, just 30 minutes ago I could not address a LED light load. It turned out the old school mechanical address decoder needed a wee bit of contact cleaner.

 

[Tev62]

I am currently rebuilding the carbs on my son's Kawasaki EX250F (American Import) and whole mudguards and airbox's have to be removed to get to them. This leaves a lot of exposed wiring for just about every electrical item. It is a great time to go through each connection and check for corrosion etc. definitely worth doing when you can.