Thinking of a new gadget...

[Csory_imp]

peterbaron: Local weather is somewhat less than ideal now - this makes me want to fiddle a little more with it... Should be finalized after it's umpteenth iteration by the end of January. Now waiting for another set of PCB's (had to redesign after dumping trimpots). Also having some toothing aches with casing - yesterday tried acetone vapor bath to smooth it but didn't like the result. Will stick with sanding and a very thin layer of epoxy before painting. Luckily, found a good solution for the screen (thanks to GoldOxide for the tip): got some night vision (ruby) filter sheets, and it looks awesome behind the antireflex glass pane. As for the functionality, it hasn't changed much: battery voltage before cranking, oil temp until it gets warmed up, and ambient temperature afterwards...

 

[peterbaron]

OK, thanks for the detailed update. No rush, take your time..., please.
...was in Hungary few times, lately/2014 spent 3 days with family in Budapest = beautiful ++...

 

[Csory_imp]

Inching forward... Created a "universal" housing, i.e. one that has a generic brick shape (unlike the original one that closely follows the top end of the CB's center console). Just to make sure that it could be mounted anywhere, on on any bike


Also tried the red filter screen but not happy with the looks. Already ordered 3-seg black faced LED modules, that and a glass front will look best (I hope...)


This third image shows the ambient sensors (temp and light levels) peeking out at the bottom - these two will stick out this much from the silicone-filled housing.


Maybe three more weeks before calling it done :celebrate:

 

[peterbaron]

OK, thanks for your update , carry on

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

What is on the "rear"? An LED and pushbutton? (last image, facing downward)

 

[Cormanus]

What is on the "rear"? An LED and pushbutton? (last image, facing downward)

Inching forward... Created a "universal" housing, i.e. one that has a generic brick shape (unlike the original one that closely follows the top end of the CB's center console). Just to make sure that it could be mounted anywhere, on on any bike


Also tried the red filter screen but not happy with the looks. Already ordered 3-seg black faced LED modules, that and a glass front will look best (I hope...)


This third image shows the ambient sensors (temp and light levels) peeking out at the bottom - these two will stick out this much from the silicone-filled housing.


Maybe three more weeks before calling it done :celebrate:

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Inching forward... Created a "universal" housing, i.e. one that has a generic brick shape (unlike the original one that closely follows the top end of the CB's center console). Just to make sure that it could be mounted anywhere, on on any bike


Also tried the red filter screen but not happy with the looks. Already ordered 3-seg black faced LED modules, that and a glass front will look best (I hope...)


This third image shows the ambient sensors (temp and light levels) peeking out at the bottom - these two will stick out this much from the silicone-filled housing.


Maybe three more weeks before calling it done :celebrate:

Ah, right.

 

[Csory_imp]

Just a quick update: went through at least a dozen variations with the PCB and displays and settled on white 3-digit monoblock LEDs with black face to give the most OEM look. Also, was able to further shrink the device - cramping everything on a single 2-sided PCB made it about 1/8" shorter. Finalized the wiring loom, now working on calibration and touching up software.

Based on a forum member's idea (cant recall who it was - my bad :-/) added another feature to display the lowest battery voltage during cranking - i.e. under load voltage drop. This is a good indicator of battery health, i.e. it should not really go below 8.5V - it is displayed for 10 seconds as soon as the engine fires up. More pictures and installation video comes next

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Just a quick update: went through at least a dozen variations with the PCB and displays and settled on white 3-digit monoblock LEDs with black face to give the most OEM look. Also, was able to further shrink the device - cramping everything on a single 2-sided PCB made it about 1/8" shorter. Finalized the wiring loom, now working on calibration and touching up software.

Based on a forum member's idea (cant recall who it was - my bad :-/) added another feature to display the lowest battery voltage during cranking - i.e. under load voltage drop. This is a good indicator of battery health, i.e. it should not really go below 8.5V - it is displayed for 10 seconds as soon as the engine fires up. More pictures and installation video comes next

Actually, that is pretty thoughtful feature Csory.

 

[Csory_imp]

Here are a few pictures showing the assembly of this "gadget".

This first image is just for fun - could not resist to put it in here. That tiny speckle on my finger is one of the resistors to be soldered in... Luckily, my wife is an optometrician



The PCB itself (that tiny resistor from previous image is actually in the left-top corner). This is the side that ended up being "double decker" - LED chip goes on top of these parts. This is how I saved the 1/8"



The "business side", with decoder and microcontroller.



Display chip in place. This is a 3-segment black face LED, allowing me to get rid of the seam lines between digits from previous iterations. Looks much better imho. Also, LED color is cold white - about the same color as the Honda instrument cluster light.



Added the light sensor, ambient temp sensor and wiring harness. Also, that blocky black thing is an ultra compact 1A buck regulator (for efficiency's sake...)



(...post continues...)

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Csory: You must have an Electrical Engineering background? Nice!

 

[Csory_imp]

(...part 2/2)
The black "shield" glued in place with quick-setting epoxy. This part is meant to center and hold the display in place (and prevent potting silicone from getting to the front glass) and is not visible from the outside.



...and fitted into the housing. Went with the original idea - 3d printed ABS, epoxy lacquered and matte black painted.



This is what the new color looks. It is much better in real life Once installed on the bike will post a video too, that will give it justice :blush:



..and thanks for reading all this and following my project
GoldOxide: Thank you. /personal mode ON/Actually, I'm a mechanical engineer by education, computer programmer by profession, serial entrepreneur by career, and love (among many other things) electronics as a hobby... A mile wide, an inch deep - and truly enjoying every minute of being like this /personal mode OFF/

 

[peterbaron]

Thank you for sharing your project with us and congratulations for achieving your goal. Well done

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Csory: I think a link to a product demo video would be delightful.

 

[Csory_imp]

Csory: I think a link to a product demo video would be delightful.

Sure - but first thing first, will have to shoot that video before posting a link to it Will do it next week (weather permits...)

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Csory: I think a link to a product demo video would be delightful.

Sure - but first thing first, will have to shoot that video before posting a link to it Will do it next week (weather permits...)

Sure - but first thing first, will have to shoot that video before posting a link to it Will do it next week (weather permits...)
Absolutely. Showcase the product in the best situation possible.

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Gadget freak here, anxiously waiting for this to become available.

Many congratulations, Csory, for your skill and determination. You really deserve to succeed in all you do. Good luck!

 

[Rocky_imp]

I admire people who have this kind of talent

 

[Csory_imp]

Just found the post that inspired the "lowest cranking voltage" feature: it was Max from Auckland. Credit goes to him.

A quick question regarding Celsius/Fahrenheit switching: found two ways to do it without having an actual button.

(a) switch ignition on and off 2 or 3 times within (say) 5 sec, that would toggle the setting. Advantages: easy to do. Disadvantages: puts some strain on electrical system (AC, relays etc) and the keylock assembly itself.

(b) using a flashlight (or phone), flash the underside of the instrument two or three times within the first 15 or so seconds after switching on ignition. This would utilize the ambient light sensor as a "switch".

The first one is more "instinctive". The second one is less intrusive. Or should I just ditch the idea, because no one ever would want to change from F to C or vice versa? It is always an option to hardcode one in and stick with it

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Just found the post that inspired the "lowest cranking voltage" feature: it was Max from Auckland. Credit goes to him.

A quick question regarding Celsius/Fahrenheit switching: found two ways to do it without having an actual button.

(a) switch ignition on and off 2 or 3 times within (say) 5 sec, that would toggle the setting. Advantages: easy to do. Disadvantages: puts some strain on electrical system (AC, relays etc) and the keylock assembly itself.

(b) using a flashlight (or phone), flash the underside of the instrument two or three times within the first 15 or so seconds after switching on ignition. This would utilize the ambient light sensor as a "switch".

The first one is more "instinctive". The second one is less intrusive. Or should I just ditch the idea, because no one ever would want to change from F to C or vice versa? It is always an option to hardcode one in and stick with it

My thought - if it's something that barely costs, then do it to "future proof" the product. You could sell it in any market then. By restricting yourself to F or C you're restricting usage.