Thinking of a new gadget...

Very thorough response Csory. Bonus for the idle time battery draw. Approximately 1 mA standby draw is not too bad. I think many motorcycle alarm systems draw 20 times that. I know the earlier generation HD V-Rods with alarm systems drew so much standby current that the battery was destroyed after two to three months. It was a real pain in the butt during remote winter storage (maybe a bug in the implementation).
 
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GoldOxide: The main factor with limiting off-state power draw is the voltage converter itself. Quiescent current of the aforementioned TRACO unit is 1mA. Anything lower than that requires a custom built buck reg and that would not fit into the form factor. Will take a look at it though - if I give up being "homemade" and hire an SMD fab, this still might be doable. Just to make sure that we're on the same page: I intend to connect this to a switched circuit -> zero power drawn while ignition is off.
 
Csory_imp said:
GoldOxide: The main factor with limiting off-state power draw is the voltage converter itself. Quiescent current of the aforementioned TRACO unit is 1mA. Anything lower than that requires a custom built buck reg and that would not fit into the form factor. Will take a look at it though - if I give up being "homemade" and hire an SMD fab, this still might be doable. Just to make sure that we're on the same page: I intend to connect this to a switched circuit -> zero power drawn while ignition is off.
Sounds good. I was going to ask if you were going to add a relay that was power by the ignition/accessory circuit, but looks like you are well ahead of that. Doesn't look like you need a relay either.
 
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GoldOxide: Yup, managed to find the OEM grip heater connector under the right-side aluminum cover, already spliced into that for my underseat USB charger. Will hook up this gadget to that too. It is an ignition-switched circuit on a 15A fuse, if memory serves well... Alternatively, could use the same circuit in the headlight assy, just not sure if that red connector is avilable on my MY18.
 
Csory_imp said:
Ok, while still waiting for the parts started tinkering with the housing. Attached pictures show renderings of front and rear view. Front window will be made of acrylic or polycarbonate. Housing will be filled with electronic grade water-clear silicone to seal from the elements. Ambient light sensor will face downward, buried in silicone but close to the surface. Next step is to have it 3D printed (or print myself if I'm brave enough) to see how it fits.
Regarding the housing, why don't you buy one of those clocks or thermometers which clamp on the handlebar, and use the casing to put your gadget in it?

for example:
https://alexnld.com/product/22-28mm...mometer-luminous-waterproof-handle-bar-mount/

You can use that, and then 3D print the internal structure so your electronics fit nice into that.
I think it will give you a cleaner installation. I'd buy one! (if in Celsius :D)
 
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jtopiso: Thanks for the tip! I checked these handlebar mounted instruments and found them to be a bit "out of picture" on the CB. I might be wrong, but hope to end up with an almost factory-looking "disguise" for my gadget...
 
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Rboe: sure, will put’em under the “homemade for sale” (or whatever is appropriate) thread, but if and only I’m 110% happy with the end result. Right now working on the housing - tested a bunch of iterations with surface finish. The winner process is 160-grit sanded, epoxyed, then spray painted with acrylic in matte black. Base material is 3d printed black ABS, 100 micron layer height. Will have to try cutting the front glass with a diamond disc. Obtained a few sheet of laminated antireflex glass (basically cellphone screen protector) but they are quite thin (0.3mm or less than 1/64”). Will post images once managed to cut’em and not break’em :D
 
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Here are two images showing different surface preps: leftmost is printed "as is", middle one sanded, rightmost epoxy-coated. Second image: same cases but painted in matte black. Second image rightmost one (epoxyed and painted) looks best to me. Will go with that.


 
Csory_imp said:
Rboe: sure, will put’em under the “homemade for sale” (or whatever is appropriate) thread, but if and only I’m 110% happy with the end result. Right now working on the housing - tested a bunch of iterations with surface finish. The winner process is 160-grit sanded, epoxyed, then spray painted with acrylic in matte black. Base material is 3d printed black ABS, 100 micron layer height. Will have to try cutting the front glass with a diamond disc. Obtained a few sheet of laminated antireflex glass (basically cellphone screen protector) but they are quite thin (0.3mm or less than 1/64”). Will post images once managed to cut’em and not break’em :D
Look for "perspex" plastic. It's tough, cheap and supplied cut to size.
 
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Parts arrived - it was time to see if the housing fits! There were a few gotchas (there are always a few gotchas...) Found that epoxy resin can be peeled off with a knife relatively easily - will try sanding, acetone bath and then spray acrylic for the housing. Also, trimpots are too fiddly to calibrate voltage measurement - will go with software calibration instead. This will be burned in once the panel is complete to match the exact characteristics of that given set of parts. Power consumption is between 10 and 30mAmps (depending on screen brightness), not that bad at all. The pictures below show how cramped this thing is. Will have to re-arrange parts to have access to the MCU for post-soldering reprogramming though... Also added a movie, just to show off :D


 
Really nice prototyping art Csory. Yeah, 10's of milliamps while riding is nothing - certainly a lot less than a signal light bulb. Cooling over long period of time could be an issue, particularly on profuse humid daze.

Are you going to put a red filter over the display digits?

Crisp video.
 
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GoldOxide: I reluctantly admit that the antireflex glass front pane (that I was so proud of...) is somewhat an eyesore. It is so transparent that the instrument looks a bit "naked" with it. Will try a few more options: a.) use black faced 7-segment display, b.) add a translucent (frosted) layer between the glass and the LEDs, or c.) use the standard deep red acrylic filter. The red filter idea seemed a bit out-of-style (with the rest of the instrument panel), but will have to reconsider...
 
If practical, consider amber LEDs and really get night traffic gawking at the flashing InfoDash at red lights.

The back seat cager kids love that stuff as they press their greasy nose against the door window.
 
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