Tank Fun

[2017EX_imp]

I will be taking the tank off my 2017EX when the weather warms up to install the LED indicator for an OEM Honda alarm system on my bike. There is a separate thread about the alarm system here on the Forum. Originally I had thought to do without the LED, but changed my mind, and have that part on the way from Japan. Consequently this thread has been of huge interest to me, and obviously a big help.

Cormanus link in post #13 to a different thread post by another member, shows the 2013-2014 type connector. In doing the research, I discovered that Honda used this connector up until 2016 when all the Honda bikes I looked at parts diagrams for changed to the connector that is the subject of this thread. Up through 2015, whether on a CB1100 or other model, the parts diagrams listed the green clip, and rubber locking piece as available separate parts, and consequently the Shop manual I have ( 2013-2014 ) called for those parts to be replaced if the fuel line was ever disconnected.

In looking at the 2017 parts diagram https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/hon/5907901f87a8660d54fac32c/fuel-tank-fuel-pump initially I could not figure out why those parts to be replaced were not on the diagram, and after reading this thread, viewing the videos, links, etc., not even the white plastic clip tommymck removed and pictured was listed. Then I saw part #5 Hose,Fuel Feed on the diagram, and it all became clear in combination with the info in this thread.

Part #5 for my 2017, runs from the tank to the fuel pump with what one of the videos in this thread describes as a high pressure fuel line quick disconnect, permanently attached to both ends. Since the parts diagram does not list the white plastic clip as a separate part, it is not intended to be removed from the quick disconnect, and so is not needed as a replacement part.. The white clip is a press to release lock, as shown in the videos in this thread. As tommymck found his connector still locks onto the fuel line without the white clip, but may be more difficult to release next time ( if needed ) without it.

Many thanks to tommymck and all the other contributors in this thread, otherwise I would have been scratching my head trying to figure out how to release that connector when the time comes, and I certainly did not know the connector design on my 2017 was different from the 2013-2014 either.

 

[tommymck]

I will be taking the tank off my 2017EX when the weather warms up to install the LED indicator for an OEM Honda alarm system on my bike. There is a separate thread about the alarm system here on the Forum. Originally I had thought to do without the LED, but changed my mind, and have that part on the way from Japan. Consequently this thread has been of huge interest to me, and obviously a big help.

Cormanus link in post #13 to a different thread post by another member, shows the 2013-2014 type connector. In doing the research, I discovered that Honda used this connector up until 2016 when all the Honda bikes I looked at parts diagrams for changed to the connector that is the subject of this thread. Up through 2015, whether on a CB1100 or other model, the parts diagrams listed the green clip, and rubber locking piece as available separate parts, and consequently the Shop manual I have ( 2013-2014 ) called for those parts to be replaced if the fuel line was ever disconnected.

In looking at the 2017 parts diagram https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/hon/5907901f87a8660d54fac32c/fuel-tank-fuel-pump initially I could not figure out why those parts to be replaced were not on the diagram, and after reading this thread, viewing the videos, links, etc., not even the white plastic clip tommymck removed and pictured was listed. Then I saw part #5 Hose,Fuel Feed on the diagram, and it all became clear in combination with the info in this thread.

Part #5 for my 2017, runs from the tank to the fuel pump with what one of the videos in this thread describes as a high pressure fuel line quick disconnect, permanently attached to both ends. Since the parts diagram does not list the white plastic clip as a separate part, it is not intended to be removed from the quick disconnect, and so is not needed as a replacement part.. The white clip is a press to release lock, as shown in the videos in this thread. As tommymck found his connector still locks onto the fuel line without the white clip, but may be more difficult to release next time ( if needed ) without it.

Many thanks to tommymck and all the other contributors in this thread, otherwise I would have been scratching my head trying to figure out how to release that connector when the time comes, and I certainly did not know the connector design on my 2017 was different from the 2013-2014 either.

Glad this is of help! Let me know if you have any issues when you start to tackle the job.

I originally thought that I'd be swapping tanks based on my mood, but the stock tank has sat in a box since original replacement, and I doubt that I'll put it back on again. I really love the vibe of the K10 tank, and the extra capacity has been noticeable with my riding.

I think I've said it in another thread, but anybody considering the K10 swap should know that the stock seat doesn't fit well with the larger tank. Fortunately (except for my wallet) Samurider has a solution for that...

Stock Seat (notice the scrunch near the tank)

K10 seat

 

[Cormanus]

2017ex, I don't know if this helps or is even relevant, but, certainly on my 2011, you don't need to take the tank off to run a wire aft from the bars. Simply undoing the bolt at the back of the tank and lifting it a little will allow you to run a wire above the heat shield.

 

[2017EX_imp]

Thanks tommymck. I had asked Mr. T quite a while back if the K10 seat would fit a 2017EX. In his reply he said it would, and sent me a picture of the K10 seat mounted. In that picture I noted a distinct downhill slant of the seat toward the tank, as opposed to being more level, and thought it might result in the rider sliding toward the tank all the time. A small issue no doubt, but just not my preference considering what the seat cost is. Some of that look is hidden by the bags in the picture you have posted. As an alternative, a riding buddy of mine sent his stock seat to a well known seat specialist ( the specialists name escapes me at the moment ) and had it modified to fit his needs. The results were spectacular, looked factory made, and cost was significantly less than a new seat. My 1974 CB750 had a very slight "scrunch" as you put it, and over time vibration rubbing of the seat nose against the tank abraded the tank clear coat finish. Not being critical of of your results as your bike is gorgeous, just offering some small considerations. If interested in exploring the seat MOD specialist who might be able to shorten the nose of your stock seat to eliminate the scrunch, I will get his info from my buddy for you.

Cormanus, Thank you for your suggestion as well. I had considered trying to run the alarm LED indicator wire above the engine heat shield as you describe, and may do that, but also wanted to know how to remove the tank ( release the fuel line connector ) as well if I discovered that was necessary during the install. As pointed out in the OEM alarm system thread Honda probably sub contracted it out to Protec. This Protec set of install pictures, bottom picture shows where I want to mount the LED indicator on top of the frame between the tank and the triple tree: http://www.protec-products.co.jp/products/cs/cs550/pdf/CS-H01_manual.pdf For anyone interested here is a link to the alarm system thread: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=6024&highlight=original+alarm+system

Lastly, Mr. T can probably get the OEM alarm system parts, but they are stock items available at
Webike: Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Gears, OEM parts & Reviews which is where I got mine. The part numbers are listed in the Original Alarm System thread. At Webike if you set up a free account, each purchase gets you points to use against the next purchase. My alarm module and siren, along with extension cable was on sale, so including shipping was about $68. When I decided to add the LED indicator, using points from the previous purchase, it only cost me about $10 shipped. While I prefer to deal with Mr. T, as he has proven to be extremely reliable, and a fine gentleman, once and a while Webike can be a reasonable supplement. Although related to this thread, my observations also veer off topic as well. I did want to share the info, but did not want to loose original context by jumping between threads to post it. Apologies for the veer, but hope the info is useful.

 

[tommymck]

Thanks tommymck. I had asked Mr. T quite a while back if the K10 seat would fit a 2017EX. In his reply he said it would, and sent me a picture of the K10 seat mounted. In that picture I noted a distinct downhill slant of the seat toward the tank, as opposed to being more level, and thought it might result in the rider sliding toward the tank all the time. A small issue no doubt, but just not my preference considering what the seat cost is. Some of that look is hidden by the bags in the picture you have posted. As an alternative, a riding buddy of mine sent his stock seat to a well known seat specialist ( the specialists name escapes me at the moment ) and had it modified to fit his needs. The results were spectacular, looked factory made, and cost was significantly less than a new seat. My 1974 CB750 had a very slight "scrunch" as you put it, and over time vibration rubbing of the seat nose against the tank abraded the tank clear coat finish. Not being critical of of your results as your bike is gorgeous, just offering some small considerations. If interested in exploring the seat MOD specialist who might be able to shorten the nose of your stock seat to eliminate the scrunch, I will get his info from my buddy for you.

Cormanus, Thank you for your suggestion as well. I had considered trying to run the alarm LED indicator wire above the engine heat shield as you describe, and may do that, but also wanted to know how to remove the tank ( release the fuel line connector ) as well if I discovered that was necessary during the install. As pointed out in the OEM alarm system thread Honda probably sub contracted it out to Protec. This Protec set of install pictures, bottom picture shows where I want to mount the LED indicator on top of the frame between the tank and the triple tree: http://www.protec-products.co.jp/products/cs/cs550/pdf/CS-H01_manual.pdf For anyone interested here is a link to the alarm system thread: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=6024&highlight=original+alarm+system

Lastly, Mr. T can probably get the OEM alarm system parts, but they are stock items available at
Webike: Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Gears, OEM parts & Reviews which is where I got mine. The part numbers are listed in the Original Alarm System thread. At Webike if you set up a free account, each purchase gets you points to use against the next purchase. My alarm module and siren, along with extension cable was on sale, so including shipping was about $68. When I decided to add the LED indicator, using points from the previous purchase, it only cost me about $10 shipped. While I prefer to deal with Mr. T, as he has proven to be extremely reliable, and a fine gentleman, once and a while Webike can be a reasonable supplement. Although related to this thread, my observations also veer off topic as well. I did want to share the info, but did not want to loose original context by jumping between threads to post it. Apologies for the veer, but hope the info is useful.

Hi 2017EX,

Interesting. There were actually two different seats that Samurider offered. One was for the 2014, and when mounted on a 2017, it had an odd relationship with the rear wrap around bar. The one for the 2017 was more straight and level. For what it's worth, see below for a close up of the seat. I don't have any pics without the bags, but in real life, it doesn't slope forward. On the other hand, if I had a line on a local source that could have mod'd my original seat, I'm sure that'd have been a more cost effective option. I really dig this seat the way it is though, but I have several bikes, so you never know when I might want something mod'd. Feel free to forward the seat guy's info along.

 

[Frulk_imp]

Tommymck...that's a ridiculously good looking CB right there!

 

[2017EX_imp]

Thanks tommymck. I had asked Mr. T quite a while back if the K10 seat would fit a 2017EX. In his reply he said it would, and sent me a picture of the K10 seat mounted. In that picture I noted a distinct downhill slant of the seat toward the tank, as opposed to being more level, and thought it might result in the rider sliding toward the tank all the time. A small issue no doubt, but just not my preference considering what the seat cost is. Some of that look is hidden by the bags in the picture you have posted. As an alternative, a riding buddy of mine sent his stock seat to a well known seat specialist ( the specialists name escapes me at the moment ) and had it modified to fit his needs. The results were spectacular, looked factory made, and cost was significantly less than a new seat. My 1974 CB750 had a very slight "scrunch" as you put it, and over time vibration rubbing of the seat nose against the tank abraded the tank clear coat finish. Not being critical of of your results as your bike is gorgeous, just offering some small considerations. If interested in exploring the seat MOD specialist who might be able to shorten the nose of your stock seat to eliminate the scrunch, I will get his info from my buddy for you.

Cormanus, Thank you for your suggestion as well. I had considered trying to run the alarm LED indicator wire above the engine heat shield as you describe, and may do that, but also wanted to know how to remove the tank ( release the fuel line connector ) as well if I discovered that was necessary during the install. As pointed out in the OEM alarm system thread Honda probably sub contracted it out to Protec. This Protec set of install pictures, bottom picture shows where I want to mount the LED indicator on top of the frame between the tank and the triple tree: http://www.protec-products.co.jp/products/cs/cs550/pdf/CS-H01_manual.pdf For anyone interested here is a link to the alarm system thread: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=6024&highlight=original+alarm+system

Lastly, Mr. T can probably get the OEM alarm system parts, but they are stock items available at
Webike: Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Gears, OEM parts & Reviews which is where I got mine. The part numbers are listed in the Original Alarm System thread. At Webike if you set up a free account, each purchase gets you points to use against the next purchase. My alarm module and siren, along with extension cable was on sale, so including shipping was about $68. When I decided to add the LED indicator, using points from the previous purchase, it only cost me about $10 shipped. While I prefer to deal with Mr. T, as he has proven to be extremely reliable, and a fine gentleman, once and a while Webike can be a reasonable supplement. Although related to this thread, my observations also veer off topic as well. I did want to share the info, but did not want to loose original context by jumping between threads to post it. Apologies for the veer, but hope the info is useful.

Hi 2017EX,

Interesting. There were actually two different seats that Samurider offered. One was for the 2014, and when mounted on a 2017, it had an odd relationship with the rear wrap around bar. The one for the 2017 was more straight and level. For what it's worth, see below for a close up of the seat. I don't have any pics without the bags, but in real life, it doesn't slope forward. On the other hand, if I had a line on a local source that could have mod'd my original seat, I'm sure that'd have been a more cost effective option. I really dig this seat the way it is though, but I have several bikes, so you never know when I might want something mod'd. Feel free to forward the seat guy's info along.

Hi 2017EX,

Interesting. There were actually two different seats that Samurider offered. One was for the 2014, and when mounted on a 2017, it had an odd relationship with the rear wrap around bar. The one for the 2017 was more straight and level. For what it's worth, see below for a close up of the seat. I don't have any pics without the bags, but in real life, it doesn't slope forward. On the other hand, if I had a line on a local source that could have mod'd my original seat, I'm sure that'd have been a more cost effective option. I really dig this seat the way it is though, but I have several bikes, so you never know when I might want something mod'd. Feel free to forward the seat guy's info along.

tommymck, AHH, that explains it. Back when I inquired about the K10 seat Mr. T sent me a picture of the 2014 seat on a 2017, which did show the downhill slope, and the odd relationship to the rear wrap around bar you observed. I havent been on Samurider in a while and did not know they had come out with a K10 seat specific for the 2017...my bad. Glad it is as it should be and it looks great with the tank and side covers! I will reach out to my buddy and get the info on the seat specialist for you. Will PM his info to you when I get it. Great looking bike!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Very classic.

The wonderful images just reminded me this, "Does anyone still use the saddle strap?" My passengers have never used them, and I don't think I would if I were a passenger.

Just curious what other members thought.

 

[Desert viper_imp]

My wife prefers a backrest

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

+1 DV.

 

[the Ferret]

The CB is a solo ride for me, but I just asked my wife if she used the seat strap on any of the other bikes we've had going back to 1973. She said no, mostly it's inconvenient because it's mostly underneath you, plus it's so thin she wouldn't have trusted it anyway. On our touring bikes she prefers a trunk behind her to prevent falling off the back and holding onto the grab rails and when we took long trips she would would just lightly hold my sides above my waist.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I have never seen a stock saddle strap that looked confident on a Japanese bike. In addition, as The Ferret cites, the strap is usually buried in the dark place, and/or the passenger seems to be either holding their groin, or groping something else. I can't imagine the wrist being comfortable for too long, especially when accelerating and decelerating. The strap is practically ageless. What were the manufacturers thinking? What are they still thinking?

 

[Cormanus]

My wife prefers a backrest.

 

[2017EX_imp]

At this point in time, the seat strap is more of a nostalgic cosmetic look thing for me. Back in the day we did occasionally, albeit rarely, use the seat strap to hold on for dear life when riding two up on a male friends bike. We did occasionally hook bungee cords to the seat strap to secure books to the rear of the seat, going to school among other things. Back then after market accessories were not nearly as diverse as they are now. Then too, we were lucky if we had the money to buy a bike in the first place, let alone the money to buy accessories.

It was considered desirable for a female passenger to wrap her arms around a male driver, but a downer if she chose to use the seat strap instead. On the other hand, a male passenger wrapping his arms around a male driver was taboo, but acceptable to grab the seat strap because thats what it was there for. There were also times when a male passenger held onto the back of the male drivers belt instead. As a side note, I did not meet or know of a local female motorcycle owner/driver back then, until I was in my 20s. I did passenger on her bike a few times, and did wrap my arms around her!

I had not thought about all the unspoken rules in years. My wife does not ride with me anymore, but when she did she wrapped arms around me. Now the seat strap is a nostalgic cosmetic throwback, to back in the day for me. I like the look and memories associated with it.

 

[the Ferret]

well stated 2017EX

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I remember looking at the seat strap under-pinning on the '76 RD400 and said, "Is that all there is?" (" ... is that all there is?"). Basically a sort of pop rivet at each end.

Fortunately, no female friends used the seat strap :celebrate: .

But half of the female friends didn't hang on to anything :dodgy: .

All the male passengers hung on to under the rear fender. Some days I swear they were going to get their fingers cut off at the most outward knuckle as the tire came into the fender.

 

[2017EX_imp]

This was waiting for me when I got home....

I've been struggling with disconnecting the fuel line for the last half-hour. I need to invest in the 2017 shop manual anyway, but I'm sensing that this is something I'll need to wrestle with even with that. Could have just had the local dealer swap it out, but where is the fun in that???

It’s not an easy connector to deal with in the cramped space under the tank. There is a rubber tab you pull first. It doesn’t come off but it allows the connector pinch points to be squeezed to release. It just takes some persistence. The shop manual recommends replacing them every time they are removed. If you are careful you ca reuse it but if you have spares it means you can be as rough as you want removing it. It took me a few times if disconnecting it to get the hang of it. Putting it back on is best done by putting the outer part on the tank and the inner part on the hose and then snapping in place. You just have to get the rubber piece with the tab lined up correctly first or the two halves won’t mate. Sorry I don’t have pictures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s not an easy connector to deal with in the cramped space under the tank. There is a rubber tab you pull first. It doesn’t come off but it allows the connector pinch points to be squeezed to release. It just takes some persistence. The shop manual recommends replacing them every time they are removed. If you are careful you ca reuse it but if you have spares it means you can be as rough as you want removing it. It took me a few times if disconnecting it to get the hang of it. Putting it back on is best done by putting the outer part on the tank and the inner part on the hose and then snapping in place. You just have to get the rubber piece with the tab lined up correctly first or the two halves won’t mate. Sorry I don’t have pictures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sure I'll sort it out. Based on the description that you provide, and what I found searching posts here, I'm wondering if the 2017 is different. There is a white clip that I managed to remove. But I there isn't much in the way of rubber tabs that I can see. It's clear that there is a trick to this, but I haven't found it yet. Any suggestions welcome...and when I figure it out, I'll post what I found....

It’s not an easy connector to deal with in the cramped space under the tank. There is a rubber tab you pull first. It doesn’t come off but it allows the connector pinch points to be squeezed to release. It just takes some persistence. The shop manual recommends replacing them every time they are removed. If you are careful you ca reuse it but if you have spares it means you can be as rough as you want removing it. It took me a few times if disconnecting it to get the hang of it. Putting it back on is best done by putting the outer part on the tank and the inner part on the hose and then snapping in place. You just have to get the rubber piece with the tab lined up correctly first or the two halves won’t mate. Sorry I don’t have pictures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sure I'll sort it out. Based on the description that you provide, and what I found searching posts here, I'm wondering if the 2017 is different. There is a white clip that I managed to remove. But I there isn't much in the way of rubber tabs that I can see. It's clear that there is a trick to this, but I haven't found it yet. Any suggestions welcome...and when I figure it out, I'll post what I found....

I am resurrecting an old thread to ask a question. In tommyecks post#3 there is a picture of the pressure fuel line attached to the metal stub, coming off the fuel pump assembly. There is a locking ring visible on the stub. I have not been able to find a picture anywhere that shows that fuel pump stub without the connector, to see if there is more than one locking ring on that stub. Was the picture taken without the pressure fitting fully seated, in which case that locking ring should be inside the fitting and not visible, or is there more than one locking ring on the stub? We are talking 2017 EX model just like Tommys.

 

[peterbaron]

Some links:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....837&page=3

[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h28OQoUmHwY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h28OQoUmHwY

Honda High Pressure Fuel Connector

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15615

P.S. 2013, 2014 & 2016 are the same. The 2017 connection is bit different.
Don't exactly remember about the white clip on the '17EX but in general some clips you have to remove other just press in, prior disconnecting the fuel line. Done this multiple times on variety of cars...

 

[Lord Popgun]

I thought the ‘17 was different, as you noticed. It has been posted on here, with pics IIRC, but some searching would have to be done to find it.

Thanks PB!! See PB’s link for the connector.

 

[17-CB-002]

Check under "How To" section, there's a tread on both types of fuel hose connector.

Yes, the 2017 connector is different from previous models (as mentioned by PB).
The white clip should never be removed, however, needs to be pushed down as per link below.

(To release the connector "Push" back the thinner white tab with the thumb and "Press" it down.
Then pull back the black connector housing with a slight twist.)

Regards
Alain

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=14975&page=2&highlight=fuel