Switching to synthetic oil...

Blockhead_imp said:
Why not just do what the owner's manual says and be done with it? Seems simple to me...
Be too easy, mate. And, anyway, what would the manufacturers know?
 
lukeduck_imp said:
This is kinda disappointing for an oil thread. Here is the way it's done 1)Oil and filter at 600 mile service, dino oil as specified. 2)Change again at 1200 miles, new filter and 5-80 wt synthetic snake oil. 3)Change oil and/or filter whenever (50 to 50,000 miles). 4) If oil level needs to be topped up add only small snakes, big ones can cause overfill. So folks there you have it in a nutshell-whats that-this nut should crawl back in his shell. OK, but before I do, Have a great 4th of July and ride extra safe. Have fun.
Mate where do I get some of that "5-80 wt synthetic snake oil"? It looks good stuff. Have googled everywhere, even lukeduck.com.

Cheers (and I got a good laugh from your post).
 
I swore I would never comment again in an oil thread but here I am again. :rolleyes: I am only sharing what I do. I have been on both sides of the fence on synthetic oils. I ran Mobile 1 15w50 in my Sportster from day one and this was back in the day when the HD stealerships would tell you it was going to ruin the engine because at that time they did not have their own branded synthetic oil for sale. What a load of crap.

Anyway, fast forward to now and I am running Shell Rotella 15w40 in my 750 and change it and the filter about every 2500-3000 miles. That may be overkill I dont know. Honda calls for 4K changes. I know it does not use a drop of oil in that time frame so far. I wont buy Honda oil filters either. I use Purolator PL14612 filters which are probably at least as good if not better than the Honda filters and they are 7 bucks a piece which I think is still high. I am a cheapskate and a tight wad and wont be ripped off at a dealership.

One thing that has never been mentioned in an oil thread is the new oil life monitors in cars these days. They are very sophisticated and count engine revolutions, time, temperature and a whole host of other parameters and determine the oil change intervals. Oil analysis have show them to be accurate. I wonder if this will ever make it to motorcycles?

No doubt at least to me that synthetic is better but I have always wondered if I ever got the benefit of it being so much better and what it cost me. Oil is so much better now that it was 15 years ago its not funny. In the end, I dont thing it matters that much what you run as long as you change it every now and then with a name brand oil of any kind.
 
F7Guy my Acura has a remaining oil life percentage meter that drops considerably quicker when driving hard. It's nice only changing the oil when the screen on the dash tells me to, and the car is at 150k now with no issues. Seems the meter is pretty sound.
 
Yup, that 5-80 synthetic snake oil can be hard to find. This is due to a shortage of synthetic snakes. I usually just put masking tape on the jug of Rotella T6 and use a marker to re-lable it as snake oil. Gotta be careful and not let the bike see you do this. I seem to recall that most synthetic snake oil came from the Land of Oz, maybe just over harvested. Anyway, everybody ride safe and have alot of fun.
 
I use Honda synthetic…10/30 which the manual suggests, but you know, I have never seen in the CB1100 user or service manual where it even mentions synthetic oil, has anyone else?


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Only the official Honda poster which I posted a pic of awhile back, mentions reg and synthetic Honda oil.. 10W 30 GN4 as good...HP4S as best for 2007 and later model Honda street bikes

 
HikerToo_imp said:
I use Honda synthetic…10/30 which the manual suggests, but you know, I have never seen in the CB1100 user or service manual where it even mentions synthetic oil, has anyone else?


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No. Although I also switched to Honda Synthetic 10w30 my last oil change. Interestingly, Cycle World has a rather timely article from Kevin Cameron on this subject. In it he says:

"What it comes down to is this: If your owner’s manual does not specify synthetic oil only, it’s up to you. Some riders feel they must “do something” for their engines and gladly pay high prices for synthetic and/or for more frequent oil changes. It makes them feel good and certainly does their engines no harm. Others will shrug at such practices and be happy with any oil that meets the spec in the manual—a spec that has been worked out by the engine manufacturer through a rigorous program of oil testing.

Most engine wear takes place in the first minutes after cold-starting, as a result of the time it takes for oil to circulate to all parts. Thus wear prevention is mainly a function of the additive package, and not of the molecular origin of the oil itself."

The complete article can be found here.
 
shdwghst457_imp said:
F7Guy my Acura has a remaining oil life percentage meter that drops considerably quicker when driving hard. It's nice only changing the oil when the screen on the dash tells me to, and the car is at 150k now with no issues. Seems the meter is pretty sound.
My Mother has a Cadillac SRX with the OLM and she short trips and runs the living hell out of it from stop light to stop light and it goes off ever 4-5K miles. Drive it easy and take longer trips and it goes way up. The oil life monitors know. Just a matter of time before they make it to motorcycles.
 
I don't know anything about oil, other than I know not to cook with engine oil.

The Honda CB1100 manual says oil must be JASO T 903 standard and MA. It should also have an API classification of SG or higher as long as it is not 'energy conserving' it suggests Honda 4-stroke motor oil or equivalent.


Does that rule out non synthetic oil?

And, just to put the filings in the sump, it also suggests 10W-30 for temperatures between about 15°F and 60°F. From there on up it suggests 10W-40.

Let the games begin, although I really would like an answer to my question. Please?
 
I've come to the inevitable conclusion that every few months there has to be an oil thread on every motorcycle forum. Must be mandated somewhere lol.
 
The ferret_imp said:
I've come to the inevitable conclusion that every few months there has to be an oil thread on every motorcycle forum. Must be mandated somewhere lol.
Yeah, that and the gas mileage people get. :cool:
 
is there a small metal rod protrusion coming out from the engine oil sight glass?

Anyone knows what that is for?
 
nate_imp said:
is there a small metal rod protrusion coming out from the engine oil sight glass?

Anyone knows what that is for?
It's a windshield wiper for your sightglass. Get a regular screwdriver and spin it around a few times
 
CIP57_imp said:
nate_imp said:
is there a small metal rod protrusion coming out from the engine oil sight glass?

Anyone knows what that is for?
It's a windshield wiper for your sightglass. Get a regular screwdriver and spin it around a few times
It's a windshield wiper for your sightglass. Get a regular screwdriver and spin it around a few times
OMG... a wiper for the 15mm sight glass?

Well, thank you for your reply! Really surprised by this- that Honda would design something so specific to a small detail on the bike like a sight glass... Old skool retro bike design huh... Seems totally new(modern) to me.. even my BMW K1600 didn't have an oil sight glass! :P

:thanks:
 
nate_imp said:
is there a small metal rod protrusion coming out from the engine oil sight glass?

Anyone knows what that is for?
Honda stole this from the Brits

I have seen the same setup on some old Brit twins
 
shdwghst457_imp said:
F7Guy my Acura has a remaining oil life percentage meter that drops considerably quicker when driving hard. It's nice only changing the oil when the screen on the dash tells me to, and the car is at 150k now with no issues. Seems the meter is pretty sound.
The ferret_imp said:
I've come to the inevitable conclusion that every few months there has to be an oil thread on every motorcycle forum. Must be mandated somewhere lol.
Probably is but everybody has an opinion and as long as its civil there is nothing wrong imo about exchanging experiences and preferences. I know as a moderator you must hate seeing every new post in an oil thread. lol :rofl:
Cormanus_imp said:
I don't know anything about oil, other than I know not to cook with engine oil.

The Honda CB1100 manual says oil must be JASO T 903 standard and MA. It should also have an API classification of SG or higher as long as it is not 'energy conserving' it suggests Honda 4-stroke motor oil or equivalent.


Does that rule out non synthetic oil?

And, just to put the filings in the sump, it also suggests 10W-30 for temperatures between about 15°F and 60°F. From there on up it suggests 10W-40.

Let the games begin, although I really would like an answer to my question. Please?
Cormanus, you are in Australia right mate? I know several car manufacturers spec thicker weight oil over there. Ford for example will spec 5w30 where the US counterparts spec 5w20. I am told this is due to miniscule mpg differences that save the companies millions at the possible expense of lesser engine life. Take that with a grain of salt because I have seen Crown Vics run 300K plus and beat to death in police duty and cab service here in the states run on 20 weight oil.

I subscribe to the thicker is better crowd but I dont have any proof it is and I dont trust Honda, Ford, Gm, Toyota, Dodge or anybody else. I just find it strange Ford and GM for example spec 30 weight oils in Aussie land and dont here in many cases. It gets hot as hell here in the states trust me.

Basically, I have no facts and dont know my ass from a popgun but I have an opinion like everybody else. How is that for a long winded answer that never answered your question?
 
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