Rear brake rotor and new pads

[Sandhog_imp]

I replaced the rear brake pads on my 13' CB for the first time the other day, when I took the bike for a short test ride afterwards I noticed the rear rotor was hot, not super hot as if I had done alot of braking just hot (lets say much more than warm!). So I put the bike back on the center stand and removed/reinstalled the assembly, the caliper and pads look aligned and I had cleaned and greased the hanger pin, everything looked correct. I took the bike for another short test ride and this time without using the rear brake, again I found the rear rotor was hot.

Is it normal for the rear rotor to be on the hot side without applying the rear brake? I imagine the rotor could be getting heated to some extent given it's proximity to the exhaust but I'm concerned it's the installation of the new pads that's causing the issue. Any thoughts or suggestions on the subject would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Not sure I can help here, but those who can will want to know if they are OEM or aftermarker pads.

A couple members have had problems as they were unknowingly riding the rear brake. You aren't doing that are you? But if you are unknowingly doing it...

 

[Sandhog_imp]

Not sure I can help here, but those who can will want to know if they are OEM or aftermarker pads.

A couple members have had problems as they were unknowingly riding the rear brake. You aren't doing that are you? But if you are unknowingly doing it...

The pads are OEM. No not riding the brake. Thanks.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

My OE rear pads crumbled and disintegrated within the first 12k miles, which I can only think was the result of overheating. They definitely looked burnt. I rarely use my rear brake and believe the caliper was somehow dragging without my knowledge. I never heard or noticed anything amiss when rotating the rear tire on the centerstand. It doesn't appear the rotor was damaged, and it has never pulsed, so I don't think it warped.

 

[Nortoon_imp]

I noticed right from the start that the rear brake on my new CB1100 EX was dragging when I spun the wheel lubing the chain

A few weeks later when washing the bike, I noticed the inside of the rear disc appeared discoloured with heat and the outside had a polished metal ring. I mentioned it to my dealer’s Service Manager and he asked if I had inadvertently ridden with my foot on the pedal. I don’t ride with my foot on the pedal and seldom use the rear brake as almost all of my riding time is spent on rural roads at highway speed. After a $25 inspection, he suggested I use the rear brake more.

So I did. The rear brake felt really mushy and the front brake began to squawk when coming to a full stop. Went to check the brake fluid, but could not get the cap off because a frame member is in the way.



Went back to the dealer. After consulting with Honda Canada a new rear disk and set of brake pads have been ordered.

 

[mininsx_imp]

New pads are going to drag a little more than the old ones until they're bedded in. I'd say you're worrying needlessly.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Nortoon, to get the cap off you have to remove the bolt that hold the reservoir in place. You can then move the thing out where you can remove the cap. The hose is pretty stiff and holds it up nicely, but as always, be careful you don't spill any fluid.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

That procedure seems very unHonda-like. Sounds more like something you'd need to do on a Moto Guzzi.

 

[curlyjoe]

The good news is you can read the level of brake fluid in the rear reservoir without removing the bolt that secures the reservoir since the reservoir is translucent. The bad news is if you need to bleed/flush, like popgun says, it's hard to stabilize the reservoir when you remove the bolt and pull it out. Next time I may see if I can stabilize using duct tape when I flush the rear brakes. Bad design, I agree.

 

[Nortoon_imp]

I expected the rear bake fluid to have a yellow tint like the front. But they said the reservoir was full. So after I got the bike back I took it out in the sun and tapped the reservoir a few times. There is a clear liquid in there.

Using the rear brake more, but the rear wheel still does not spin smoothly when lubing the chain. I still think there is something other than the pads rubbing against the rotor.

The front brake still squawks when coming to a complete stop. I feel like that guy in the convertible with the squeaky brakes on the Midas commercial. Good thing I only come to a standing stop when forced by traffic to do so. I also wear good ear plugs.

Rode over 600 kilometers (375 miles) today on my day ride. Within an hour my back and butt were bothering me. The back got better, but I had to make a lot of butt stops. Standing on the pegs only provided temporary relief. Tried just pushing down on the pegs while remaining seated, but it was hard on the legs and provided little relief. I should have left my Coleman MadDog ATV pad on the seat.

 

[Macduff_imp]

Might be worth taking a few cc's of brake fluid out of the rear brake master cylinder so that there is room for expansion. Brake calipers by design of the seals should pull the piston (and pads) back a smidgeon once brake pressure is released so that they aren't pressing on the disk all the time, so if yours are theres something wrong. Given you sig says 2017 CB1100 I'm assuming that there isn't any crud corrosion build up stopping the pads/pistons from moving freely. That is the usual reason for dragging pads, I recently had to crowbar a front brake caliper off my 30+year old GSX-R750 as it was holding the disk in a vice like grip, it wasn't that badly corroded externally just crusts had formed (from being immobile for umpteen years) around the piston seals. PS I hope to pick up my new CB1100RS on saturday so will post back on how free the rear brake is when spanking new so you have a valid comparison, maybe theres a design flaw causing these to drag if mine is similar.

 

[Sandhog_imp]

Thanks everyone for your help and assistance! I've got the brake working properly, it seems the caliper piston was a little sticky and needed a good cleaning. Also now that I have a few more miles on the new pads the heat build-up on the rotor is considerably less. Thanks!

 

[Cormanus]

Good.

 

[ethan.phan613_imp]

I replaced the rear brake pads on my 13' CB for the first time the other day, when I took the bike for a short test ride afterwards I noticed the rear rotor was hot, not super hot as if I had done alot of braking just hot (lets say much more than warm!). So I put the bike back on the center stand and removed/reinstalled the assembly, the caliper and pads look aligned and I had cleaned and greased the hanger pin, everything looked correct. I took the bike for another short test ride and this time without using the rear brake, again I found the rear rotor was hot.

Is it normal for the rear rotor to be on the hot side without applying the rear brake? I imagine the rotor could be getting heated to some extent given it's proximity to the exhaust but I'm concerned it's the installation of the new pads that's causing the issue. Any thoughts or suggestions on the subject would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi, may I know where did you get the rear brake rotor, I'm try to looking online but did not find any available right now.