Rear brake pad replacement

[LongRanger_imp]

Short of draining the brake fluid, is there a simple method to retract the pistons so the pads can be pulled out? My caliper doesn't seem to want to budge open, and the service manual doesn't offer a clear explanation, at least for my amateur skills.

 

[Roadwarrior_imp]

Unless these are the screw in pistons, you can slide in a screw driver between the pad and rotor on the piston side and pry it to force the piston in. Be careful not to put a deep scratches in rotor. Very light surface scratches will not hurt it.

 

[the Ferret]

If you have the caliper off but havent removed the old pads you can use a screwdriver between the old pads to force the pistons back in. I have also used a C clamp in years past, but that is usually not necessary. I would not use my rotor as a pry surface.

 

[kmoney_imp]

So the pads can be pulled out? You should be able to remove the calipers and pads with the brakes in their normal released position. From there all you need to do is use some wood and channel locks to compress the piston, or the screwdriver as mentioned above.

 

[Lord Popgun]

When I pulled my wheels off for new tire mounting, I put wood wedges in the pads to keep them from moving out. And that pushed them in. Shouldn't be hard to push them in. Keep an eye on the reservoir level if you push them in all the way.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

Remove the reservoir cap to let pressure out while spreading brake pads...... Just be careful not to let any spill, that stuff destroys paint!

Sent from me......

 

[use2b_imp]

Remove the reservoir cap to let pressure out while spreading brake pads...... Just be careful not to let any spill, that stuff destroys paint!

Sent from me......

very good advice. I always cover my tank with cloth , then plastic , then cloth to keep any fluid from eating the paint .
also agree do not pry against the rotor . good luck

 

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Funny, I just this moment finished installing EBC HH pads front and rear on my FZ8, and stainless lines all around. So the process is fresh in mind.

Remove your calipers. Otherwise you may damage something. Just take them off as you would if removing the front wheel.

Then you'll have complete access to the pad/piston area. You can use a wide pry bar, a wide screwdriver, or other suitable tool to press the pads/pistons back in.

I myself would not remove the reservoir cap; it's already vented above the accordion seal so unless you are planning on pressing those pistons all the way in (as far as they can go), there should be sufficient room in the reservoir to accommodate the backflow of fluid. After all, the pads were new and the brake fluid filled to the proper level at the factory.

It's just a messy, risky thing to do and you could really muck up your tank and paint with that brake fluid.

 

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

Remove your calipers. Otherwise you may damage something. Just take them off as you would if removing the front wheel.

Then you'll have complete access to the pad/piston area. You can use a wide pry bar, a wide screwdriver, or other suitable tool to press the pads/pistons back in.

I myself would not remove the reservoir cap; it's already vented above the accordion seal so unless you are planning on pressing those pistons all the way in (as far as they can go), there should be sufficient room in the reservoir to accommodate the backflow of fluid. After all, the pads were new and the brake fluid filled to the proper level at the factory.

Good thinking. I'm always thinking that the reservoir may have been topped off and may have too much fluid/pressure. You're right, it's not always necessary to remove cap.

Sent from me......

 

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Remove your calipers. Otherwise you may damage something. Just take them off as you would if removing the front wheel.

Then you'll have complete access to the pad/piston area. You can use a wide pry bar, a wide screwdriver, or other suitable tool to press the pads/pistons back in.

I myself would not remove the reservoir cap; it's already vented above the accordion seal so unless you are planning on pressing those pistons all the way in (as far as they can go), there should be sufficient room in the reservoir to accommodate the backflow of fluid. After all, the pads were new and the brake fluid filled to the proper level at the factory.

Good thinking. I'm always thinking that the reservoir may have been topped off and may have too much fluid/pressure. You're right, it's not always necessary to remove cap.

Sent from me......

It's just one less thing to think about, is all.

 

[Randy B]

You guys keep describing taking the front calipers off when the title of the thread clearly states the rear pads.

 

[the Ferret]

Randy once you unbolt the caliper from it's hanger and remove it from the disc, it's the same operation.

 

[Randy B]

Randy once you unbolt the caliper from it's hanger and remove it from the disc, it's the same operation.

I get that, I really do, but .....calipers.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Thanks everyone. I was able to easily swap out the rear pads in about 15 minutes. Next time, it'll take 10 minutes.

My OE pads had about 12k miles on them and while they weren't worn to the limit, I was stunned at how damaged they were. The trailing edges were beveled and very rough and crumbly -- the material easily broke off in my fingers.

I replaced the pads with another set of OE pads (P/N 43105-MWD-425). I also replaced the rear caliper mounting bolt per Honda's recommendation (P/N 90180-MN8-006). The bolt comes with some thread lock on it. I could have reused the original bolt but didn't mind replacing it. Total cost of parts was $43.00.

Replacement is very straightforward:

1 - Press the piston into the caliper by pushing the caliper inwards, towards the wheel (the caliper only has one piston, on the outboard side).

2 - Loosen but do not remove the pad mounting pin (8mm head).

3 - Remove the rear caliper mounting bolt (12mm head).

4 - Remove the pad mounting pin.

5 - Rotate the caliper upwards, towards the front of the bike. If you've compressed the piston sufficiently, the pads will simply fall out.

6 - Clean up the inside of the caliper.

7 - With the caliper rotated upwards, slide in the new pads. Be sure they engage the spring on the upper surface of the caliper, and be sure the tangs on the pads hang on the front of the caliper. It's easy to see what's happening while the caliper is rotated upwards.

8 - Lower the caliper onto the rotor.

9 - Apply a tiny dab of grease to the tip of the pad mounting pin. Reinstall the pad mounting pin through the holes in the pads and the caliper. You'll need to press the pads up against the spring for the holes to line up. Don't fully tighten the pad mounting pin just yet.

10 - Install the (new) rear caliper mounting bolt. Torque to 16 lb-ft. My 1/2" drive torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I simply used an open-end 12mm wrench and did my best.

11 - Tighten the pad mounting pin. Torque to 13 lb-ft. Again, my torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I used an open-end 8mm wrench.

12- Press down on brake pedal to extend the piston and set the pads against the rotor.




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[the Ferret]

Good job LR and thanks for taking the time to write down the step by steps. I might add that if you have an air compressor its a good idea to blow out any residual brake dust while you are cleaning eveything out, and to take a scratchy pad or fine emery cloth to both sides of your rotor and then clean it with some brake cleaner to remove any of the old pad that had imbedded itself on the rotor surface. Also to get a bungie cord or wire to hang your caliper on if you are going to be letting go of it for any length of tome. You should not let the caliper weight hang on it's hydraulic hose.

Your pads looked like they had a lot of life left in them but did appear to be crumbling on the back edge for some reason?

Good job.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Thanks Ferret, all good points. I agree with using bungie cords when removing calipers so they don't hang on the brake lines, but in this specific case, the caliper is not removed from the bike, it is simply unbolted from one location and allowed to rotate against the remaining mounting bolt. With this method, the caliper can be lifted about 1" off the rotor, but it's not removed from the bike. The 1" provides plenty of clearance to replace the pads. There is no stress on the hydraulic line.

I can't explain the condition of the old pads. I've never come across that before.

 

[Jeffhorn_imp]

Remove your calipers. Otherwise you may damage something. Just take them off as you would if removing the front wheel.

Then you'll have complete access to the pad/piston area. You can use a wide pry bar, a wide screwdriver, or other suitable tool to press the pads/pistons back in.

I myself would not remove the reservoir cap; it's already vented above the accordion seal so unless you are planning on pressing those pistons all the way in (as far as they can go), there should be sufficient room in the reservoir to accommodate the backflow of fluid. After all, the pads were new and the brake fluid filled to the proper level at the factory.

Good thinking. I'm always thinking that the reservoir may have been topped off and may have too much fluid/pressure. You're right, it's not always necessary to remove cap.

Sent from me......

It's just one less thing to think about, is all.

It's just one less thing to think about, is all. I've made it a habit of removing a bit of fluid from the reservoir first to prevent any fluid spill then refill with fresh fluid.

 

[bflint]

Have CB1100 2014DX. Simplest disk brake job I ever did! Remove 2 bolts (eg, a screw/pin and a bolt), tilt caliper forward, remove old pads, press/retract hydro cylinder with taped screwdriver, install new pads, reinstall bolts. Thanks to the CB1100 online buddies

 

[dsan1964_imp]

Have CB1100 2014DX. Simplest disk brake job I ever did! Remove 2 bolts (eg, a screw/pin and a bolt), tilt caliper forward, remove old pads, press/retract hydro cylinder with taped screwdriver, install new pads, reinstall bolts. Thanks to the CB1100 online buddies

Nice..., How many miles did you get out of them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bflint]

Have CB1100 2014DX. Simplest disk brake job I ever did! Remove 2 bolts (eg, a screw/pin and a bolt), tilt caliper forward, remove old pads, press/retract hydro cylinder with taped screwdriver, install new pads, reinstall bolts. Thanks to the CB1100 online buddies

Nice..., How many miles did you get out of them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Front are still original at 14,500. Rear has been replaced twice ... once at 5000 and then again at 13,800.