Rear Brake Hanging

White Dog_imp

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New 2014 CB1100, less than 500 miles. When I finished my workout at the Y today I noticed my cycle was pulling hard. With clutch pulled in, it would barely roll. I rode it home and put it up on center stand. That's when I found the rear tire would barely turn. What's happening with this? Can I ride it the 20 miles to the dealer in the morning without doing any harm? Anything i can do tonight to free up the brake?
 
Happened to me twice. First time; warranty. Second time I paid.

If you look at the edge you'll see that the black paint has burned off and turned white - light grey. When they pull the disc it will be warped like a cone (only very slight).

After watching myself carefully, with my Sidi adventure boots on my feet tend to dip down a lot, catch the rear brake lever and I would ride with the while applying brake pressure. Naturally this created a LOT of heat. This warps the disc and causes it to bind against the caliper housing.

I eventually ended up bending the brake pedal in a wee bit; and I try very hard to avoid the pedal. This did not happen with my Tour Master touring boots but they feel like slippers compared to the Sidi's. Part of the problem with the Sidi's, they are so robust that I could not feel riding the brake pedal.

Compared to my 650L and Griso, the CB1100 brake pedal sticks out further than I'm used to; too much in my humble opinion. Certainly too much for my inseam, HD boot combo and seating position.

The disc was almost $300, but it's pretty easy to replace. When Honda warrantied the first one my bike was only the second one they had seen do this. Riding the brake was one of the first things I thought of but I'm an experience rider and never caught myself doing that until much later.
 
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The assembly which is held on by the axle bolt and holds the disc brakes is rubbing against the lower part of the rotor just below the pads. There is a bolt screwed into this assembly and perhaps it is too long and is rubbing against the rotor. It has worn a nice shiny ring all the way around the rotor below the disc pad. It's as if the outside pad is not touching the rotor. The resistance in turning the rear wheel is pretty much the same all way around. If I knew how to load a pic on this forum, I'd do that, but I am new to this site.

BTW, I've been riding cycles since 1980 and have never ridden the rear brake. I can't imagine with less than 500 miles on the odo that the rotor would be warped when I can see where the rubbing is occurring.
 
Yup, that is how mine warped and rubbed.

I started riding in 1976, felt the same way. I never rode the rear brake either.

I was wrong.
 
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Dealer has my cycle now and said it would be a warranty job. The Service Manager wanted his head mechanic to analyze the situation but he said a new rotor would have to be ordered. No mention of other parts. I was told the head mechanic had already looked at a new 1100 on the showroom floor as comparison. Had to leave the cycle but the shop was kind enough to get me a ride home at no cost to me.
 
In both my cases, just a disc was needed. Once the part comes in it's an easy fix. I had more trouble getting the rear wheel back on with the chain than anything else. Taking a tip from this forum, a piece of wood to prop up the rear tire worked wonders. :)
 
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Rboe_imp said:
In both my cases, just a disc was needed. Once the part comes in it's an easy fix. I had more trouble getting the rear wheel back on with the chain than anything else. Taking a tip from this forum, a piece of wood to prop up the rear tire worked wonders. :)
Rboe, I'm not a motorcycle mechanic by any stretch but I cannot wrap my head around that "riding the brake pedal" would cause a groove in the rotor particularly where no disc pad rubs. To go even further, the brake pedal must be depressed to get the rear brakes to slow/stop the cycle. Not trying to be smart here, just stating an opinion. There has got to be a plausible reason the grooving occurs, particularly with less than 500 miles on the cycle.

I haven't heard from the dealer yet but one wrench(?) said the brake was "in spec" whatever that is supposed to mean. Hope he is not the one to repair it.
Just talked to the dealer and was told the rotor in question was "warped from the factory" and they are having one shipped in overnight. So, I may be riding late tomorrow afternoon. (woohoo?) I'm still wondering what caused the grooving, however.
 
Thanks for the pics. I'll have to watch myself. I tend to ride on the balls of my feet unless I'm in traffic but I'll take a look anyway.
 
I wear a 10.5 Sidi boot. Tend to point my toes down too. The Sidi is well armored which prevents me from getting a good feel for the pedal. The Tour Masters feel like tennis shoes in comparison. They are a wee bit narrower too, never seemed to have a problem with the those boots; but the Sidi's are easier to walk in and feel safer.

So when I've checked my feet, they are more like your first picture, dang close to the pedal. :(
 
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I pledge to use my highway pegs as often as I can in the event I've been riding the rear brake pedal but I don't think I have. You can bet I'll have that foremost in my mind from now on.
 
DAC_imp said:
Thanks for the pics. I'll have to watch myself. I tend to ride on the balls of my feet unless I'm in traffic but I'll take a look anyway.
Must have off-road experience, where that is the norm. After almost 50 years, it is instinct for me, and I don't even think about it. On the balls, ready to lift your butt off the seat in a split second, is critical to off-road survival. Helps on the street when those nasty expansion joints sneak up on you, as well! :D
 
I don't, tend to put the foot peg up against the protruding heal of the boot. That could explain a lot in my case.
 
Thread starter
Well I got my bike back today with a new rear rotor Honda shipped overnight. I was lucky that the head mechanic did the work. Here are two things I learned and hope everyone can remember.
1. The distance from the rotor surface to the caliper is about .050" with a new rotor.
2. It only takes about 1/4" depression on the brake lever to activate the pads to move tighter onto the rotor. That's not enough to stop the cycle but it is enough to build up heat and eventually the rotor will warp and the caliper will start touching the rotor causing it to bind.
While at the Honda shop today, I asked the Service Manager if the rear brake lever could be adjusted downward and he said they could do it for a fee. So, I politely declined but asked him how they did it. He pointed to this nut and said "turn it to lower the lever." Well I did, but it did not change the height of the lever up or down.
http://s105.photobucket.com/user/WhiteDo...sort=3&o=1
Does anyone know how to lower the rear brake lever?
 
Thread starter
Rboe_imp said:
Happened to me twice. First time; warranty. Second time I paid.

If you look at the edge you'll see that the black paint has burned off and turned white - light grey. When they pull the disc it will be warped like a cone (only very slight).

After watching myself carefully, with my Sidi adventure boots on my feet tend to dip down a lot, catch the rear brake lever and I would ride with the while applying brake pressure. Naturally this created a LOT of heat. This warps the disc and causes it to bind against the caliper housing.

I eventually ended up bending the brake pedal in a wee bit; and I try very hard to avoid the pedal. This did not happen with my Tour Master touring boots but they feel like slippers compared to the Sidi's. Part of the problem with the Sidi's, they are so robust that I could not feel riding the brake pedal.

Compared to my 650L and Griso, the CB1100 brake pedal sticks out further than I'm used to; too much in my humble opinion. Certainly too much for my inseam, HD boot combo and seating position.

The disc was almost $300, but it's pretty easy to replace. When Honda warrantied the first one my bike was only the second one they had seen do this. Riding the brake was one of the first things I thought of but I'm an experience rider and never caught myself doing that until much later.
Was bending the foot lever a difficult job? Did you have to heat it before bending?
 
White Dog_imp said:
Well I got my bike back today with a new rear rotor Honda shipped overnight. I was lucky that the head mechanic did the work. Here are two things I learned and hope everyone can remember.
1. The distance from the rotor surface to the caliper is about .050" with a new rotor.
2. It only takes about 1/4" depression on the brake lever to activate the pads to move tighter onto the rotor. That's not enough to stop the cycle but it is enough to build up heat and eventually the rotor will warp and the caliper will start touching the rotor causing it to bind.
While at the Honda shop today, I asked the Service Manager if the rear brake lever could be adjusted downward and he said they could do it for a fee. So, I politely declined but asked him how they did it. He pointed to this nut and said "turn it to lower the lever." Well I did, but it did not change the height of the lever up or down.
http://s105.photobucket.com/user/WhiteDo...sort=3&o=1
Does anyone know how to lower the rear brake lever?

From the manual:
Loosen the push rod joint nut and turn the push rod until the correct pedal height is obtained.

If the brake pedal is adjusted to the lower position, make sure the clearance between the lower end of the push rod and the brake pedal does not fall below 1mm.

If the brake pedal is adjusted to the higher position, make sure the lower end of the push rod is visible inside the joint.

All that from the manual means the threaded shaft, or rod, needs to have some threads showing inside the linkage piece, or at least 1mm clearance with the pedal. Realize there are two nuts, the lock nut, and at the top of the shaft by the rubber boot, a nut you turn to adjust the shaft length.
White dog, if you need a pic of this, PM me your email address and I'll send you the page from the manual. They can't be posted here as they are copyrighted.
 
I used a big pipe wrench (don't we all have those? :angel:), wasn't all that hard. I did nick the metal with the teeth as I did not choose the protective wood wisely. :(

It's not bent in all that much, but it seems to have done the trick. I was on the XR650L today, its' brake pedal is tucked in pretty close to the engine - a dirt bike thing I suppose. For both the Griso and the XR I have to really think about twisting the foot over to hit the rear brake if I choose to use it.

I think I looked at lowering the pedal for some reason decided against it.

The comment earlier about riding on the balls of your feet got me to thinking, I noticed on the XR I also tend to put the peg in the slot of the boot in front of the heal. I suspect I have too many years of riding experience to change my habit on this but I'm looking at trying. In any event, it was an eye opening statement and something that was not even on my radar. :worship:
 
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