Oiling chain

[ClassicVW_imp]

Yeah, you rebel you! .

 

[lukeduck_imp]

Current production Multi Purpose Lube is not recommended for bike chains. They made some changes a couple years ago when they brought out Chain Saver. Multi Purpose used to recommended for chains but no longer. Personally I think they just relabled and now charge a bit more for Chain Saver (sounds better?), but who am I to say. Currently use the Chain Saver. Happy lubing and watch out for those fiery crashes.

 

[ClassicVW_imp]

Current production Multi Purpose Lube is not recommended for bike chains. They made some changes a couple years ago when they brought out Chain Saver. Multi Purpose used to recommended for chains but no longer. Personally I think they just relabled and now charge a bit more for Chain Saver (sounds better?), but who am I to say. Currently use the Chain Saver. Happy lubing and watch out for those fiery crashes.

I have noticed that the Multi Purpose was impossible to find for a while, then it reappeared in a new shape can, it now has the rounded shoulder under the cap. The labeling looks the same as the old can. Does the Chain Saver have that same shape can? I wonder if Multi Purpose is the same stuff as Chain Saver with different labeling?

 

[NightRider_imp]

My owners manual is locked up under the seat (and I'm too lazy to go out there tonight).

Anyone remember what Honda says about this in the owners manual?

 

[the Ferret]

Honda says to use 80-90 weight gear oil or a motorcycle specific chain lube made for O ring chains every 300-500 miles I believe.

 

[NightRider_imp]

Thanks. Sounds like a plan.

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

I keep Erics chain clean. And I think that cleanliness is key to longevity. I use WD40 for that, like many other posters in this thread. I use the blue chain cleaning brush available from Cycle Gear. After cleaning, including a good wipe down, I lube the entire chain with an application of synthetic 80 or 90 weight lube, applied with a tooth brush. After lube, I wipe the chain down well with a rag. Second key thing for me, is chain adjustment. I've had best results over a lifetime of motorcycle riding by setting chain adjustment on the loose side. Too many get overly anal about their chain, over lubing and adjusting it too often and too tightly, stretching it out and causing premature damage to it and to the sprockets. Lastly, just before every other ride, I apply a dab of lube on the inside surface of the chain. This is just enough not to create a mess, but through contact with the sprockets spread to all the rollers so as to lubricate the metal contacting surfaces. There's a plethora of good chain advice in this thread. Using any combination should help CB riders keep their drive chains healthy for a good, long life

 

[aschem_imp]

Has anyone used chainsaw oil on their bike chain?

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

I keep Erics chain clean. And I think that cleanliness is key to longevity. I use WD40 for that, like many other posters in this thread. I use the blue chain cleaning brush available from Cycle Gear. After cleaning, including a good wipe down, I lube the entire chain with an application of synthetic 80 or 90 weight lube, applied with a tooth brush. After lube, I wipe the chain down well with a rag. Second key thing for me, is chain adjustment. I've had best results over a lifetime of motorcycle riding by setting chain adjustment on the loose side. Too many get overly anal about their chain, over lubing and adjusting it too often and too tightly, stretching it out and causing premature damage to it and to the sprockets. Lastly, just before every other ride, I apply a dab of lube on the inside surface of the chain. This is just enough not to create a mess, but through contact with the sprockets spread to all the rollers so as to lubricate the metal contacting surfaces. There's a plethora of good chain advice in this thread. Using any combination should help CB riders keep their drive chains healthy for a good, long life

Geezer, I understood that WD40 was not compatible with O rings. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Cheers

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

Check out HikerToo's post on page 1 of this thread. For the newest of o-ring technology chains, WD or kerosene are excellent cleaners, just make sure to re-lube thoroughly to keep the o-rings pliable

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Check out HikerToo's post on page 1 of this thread. For the newest of o-ring technology chains, WD or kerosene are excellent cleaners, just make sure to re-lube thoroughly to keep the o-rings pliable

Thanks mate. You are right, Hiker's post is interesting and informative.

Cheers

 

[Riko_imp]

Brake cleaner to clean and Honda Pro Chain Lube for lube. About every 1,000 miles or so. I have over 13k miles on my high-hp CBR's chain and it's still fine.

Anywhere where there's metal-to-metal contact there needs to be lubricant. The chain itself is internally, permanently lubricated, so there's no reason to worry about that, all you need to worry about is the sprocket to chain interface and the outside links/rivets.

Anywhere there is lubricant exposed to the elements, dust and dirt will accumulate and moisture will eventually break-down the lubricant as well as accumulate along with the dust and dirt, so those areas must be periodically cleaned of the dust and dirt, or accelerated wear of the parts will occur (both mechanical and corrosive).

I assume your chain has been holding up strong ever since using brake cleaner?

 

[riceburner_imp]

Brake cleaner to clean and Honda Pro Chain Lube for lube. About every 1,000 miles or so. I have over 13k miles on my high-hp CBR's chain and it's still fine.

Anywhere where there's metal-to-metal contact there needs to be lubricant. The chain itself is internally, permanently lubricated, so there's no reason to worry about that, all you need to worry about is the sprocket to chain interface and the outside links/rivets.

Anywhere there is lubricant exposed to the elements, dust and dirt will accumulate and moisture will eventually break-down the lubricant as well as accumulate along with the dust and dirt, so those areas must be periodically cleaned of the dust and dirt, or accelerated wear of the parts will occur (both mechanical and corrosive).

I assume your chain has been holding up strong ever since using brake cleaner?

I assume your chain has been holding up strong ever since using brake cleaner?
After doing a search for chains and master links it appears that chain technology and complexity has evolved and gotten more expensive since I last had a bike with a chain.The master links now need a riveting tool to install rather than a simple pair of mc toolkit supplied pliers to install the long ago used clip to secure the master link,which worked perfectly fine by the way.Still at 48 bucks for a chain and 9 bucks for the tool,if you don't need an excuse to get out of the house and escape to the sanctuary of the garage for extended periods of chain maintenance and cleaning,why bother.Just lube it regular with spray can and ride,use the time saved to ride.Riding in the rain is non labor intensive chain cleaning method does not push dirt into to nooks and crannies and just needs a little lube when done with the ride. my 2 cents.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

A quick wipedown with kerosene, a wipe with a rag, and a spritz of whatever leftover aerosol chain lube I have on the shelf seems to work fine for me. Every 1000 miles or so seems about right. I try not to overthink it. The chain and sprockets WILL wear out at some point and will need to be replaced - it's unavoidable, like death and taxes.

 

[Riko_imp]

A quick wipedown with kerosene, a wipe with a rag, and a spritz of whatever leftover aerosol chain lube I have on the shelf seems to work fine for me. Every 1000 miles or so seems about right. I try not to overthink it. The chain and sprockets WILL wear out at some point and will need to be replaced - it's unavoidable, like death and taxes.

unlike death, you can cheat taxes, its not impossible even its for a happy few, its nut that unavoidable

 

[4 Paws_imp]

endless loop, sorta like the shampoo bottle instructions - wash,rinse,repeat.

 

[redbirds_imp]

Whilst cleaning my bike earlier this week I noticed the chain needed a small adjustment (out about 1/4"). I could not remember the last time it was adjusted, well over a year ago I'm sure. Modern O ring chains and and chain lubes are remarkable. Chain maintenance used to be such an annoyance but not any longer and I find the reasoning for shaft drives and belts less and less convincing. Add in the ease of final gearing changes with a chain plus less weight over a shaft system and chain drive looks better than ever.

 

[flynrider]

I agree. The amount of attention required by a quality sealed chain is a small fraction of what it was with the standard (i.e. unsealed) chains in 'ye olden days. Those old chains had to stay continuously soaked in thick, heavy lubricants, which was both time consuming and messy. Since the lube didn't generally stay in the rollers (unless you lubed every 100 miles or so), chain adjustment and replacement intervals were a lot shorter.

Most of the time when I hear someone complaining about chain final drives it's either people who haven't used a modern sealed chain, or (surprisingly) those that do have a sealed chain, but continue to maintain them like the old standard chains. :huh: