peterbaron
Road warrior
Again, I already diagnosed your problem...Gone in 60_imp said:
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Oil Filter Options
- Thread starter Yata-Garasu_imp
- Start date
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Tev62
Road warrior
As mentioned above those are horrible. I can literally name 4 friends that have a had those nuts strip/twist and had a nightmare shoving screw drivers through the filters to get them off.mvk24_imp said:
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
Then those four friends are to blame, regardless of whether there is a nut on top of the filter, they should of known there is no need to use a tool to overtighten an oil filter. If they didn't know that one wonders what else they might of ballsed up on their bike. You might suspect this is the same crowd who over-tighten the chain to and wonder why the output shaft bearing failed.
If they had bothered to read the K&N packaging it is touted as a "wrench-off" design, nothing to do with fitting it. As cormanus stated i am the only one that works out their bikes and I did the oil changes myself with the supplies they bought. This was on multiple different kinds of bikes. The nuts were faulty multiple times over the last 10 years or so I've had experiencewith them. I used one of those on my subaru when I first got it and had the same exact problem but luckily I could use a strap wrench to get it off because it isn't in a tight little area between pipes like on our bikes.
And yes I know an oil filter just goes on hand tight by hand because with use it will get tighter on its own..
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
So are you saying the filters that required a screwdriver to get off were unrelated to the fact there was a nut on top or that the previous installer had used the nut to overtighten them with a tool? I'm not following your argument here? Or are you just saying you are witnessing these filters leak around the nut and it has nothing to do with being overtightened?
As mentioned above those are horrible. I can literally name 4 friends that have a had those nuts strip/twist and had a nightmare shoving screw drivers through the filters to get them off.Tev62_imp said:
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
Then those four friends are to blame, regardless of whether there is a nut on top of the filter, they should of known there is no need to use a tool to overtighten an oil filter. If they didn't know that one wonders what else they might of ballsed up on their bike. You might suspect this is the same crowd who over-tighten the chain to and wonder why the output shaft bearing failed.
If they had bothered to read the K&N packaging it is touted as a "wrench-off" design, nothing to do with fitting it. As cormanus stated i am the only one that works out their bikes and I did the oil changes myself with the supplies they bought. This was on multiple different kinds of bikes. The nuts were faulty multiple times over the last 10 years or so I've had experiencewith them. I used one of those on my subaru when I first got it and had the same exact problem but luckily I could use a strap wrench to get it off because it isn't in a tight little area between pipes like on our bikes.
And yes I know an oil filter just goes on hand tight by hand because with use it will get tighter on its own..
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
So are you saying the filters that required a screwdriver to get off were unrelated to the fact there was a nut on top or that the previous installer had used the nut to overtighten them with a tool? I'm not following your argument here? Or are you just saying you are witnessing these filters leak around the nut and it has nothing to do with being overtightened? I'm not arguing Tev you asked and I'm telling you my answer. I personally have installed them by hand many times on more than just the CB. And then when I went to Uninstall them by manner of the Nut they weld on for that purpose. . They strip immediately before the filter even turns.
If you want to use K&N filters it doesn't affect me in anyway. I'm just letting you know as others here have stated that the only filters thus far that have given us any problems whether It be leaks or the Nut stripping were K&Ns.
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
Tev62
Road warrior
OK, fair enough, I can't argue with your experience.mvk24_imp said:
Tev62
Road warrior
Does anyone take note of Honda's recommendation to change the oil filter only every other change? One of the arguments for doing this is that a filter in its partially used state is actually a better performer at filtering smaller particles than when it is new. You might deduce Honda find minor loss of flow acceptable on this engine? The caveat being you are using a genuine filter and their recommended oil grade. My guess is the answer is a resounding no, for lots of reasons.
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
I change my oil once a year and always use a new Honda OEM filter , cost are so little and I ride about 4 to 5 thousand miles a year on my bikes.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
(+1) once a year.Houtman_imp said:
Secondary oil filters, if available on the Honda machine, every second year.
Nachodaddy
Road warrior
For those of us who don't put many miles on our machines, like 1,000 or 2,000 or less a year, how often should we be changing our oil? And fuel, for that matter. I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer in my 1923 Model T Ford and have considered using it in my motorcycle.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
For me at least, if the bike gets ridden often enough in the winter season, I don't bother with the stabilizer. Never had a problem. Use "brand name" gasoline though, no discount brands. In Canada at least, discount brands have higher than average water content.Nachodaddy_imp said:
Gone in 60
Road warrior
Nacho, our fleet of scooters sits in a trailer from early October to early March every year. We use Sta-Bil in them for the off-season, and it works fine.
We do have the advantage of finishing our season in an area where we can buy non-ethanol gas, so we don't have that worry. We pour in the Sta-Bil, let the engine run a bit to get it into the fuel system, and good-to-go. Since these are carbureted, we run the engines with the petcocks off to dry out the carbs as much as possible, but you'd just want to make sure it gets into your injection system.
Regarding the oil change issue, I change at 4000 miles, and if it takes a little more than a year to roll that much mileage on any particular bike, I don't worry about it. I change on mileage, not a time range. Now, if I were going to store a bike for a long period of time, that would be a different story.
We do have the advantage of finishing our season in an area where we can buy non-ethanol gas, so we don't have that worry. We pour in the Sta-Bil, let the engine run a bit to get it into the fuel system, and good-to-go. Since these are carbureted, we run the engines with the petcocks off to dry out the carbs as much as possible, but you'd just want to make sure it gets into your injection system.
Regarding the oil change issue, I change at 4000 miles, and if it takes a little more than a year to roll that much mileage on any particular bike, I don't worry about it. I change on mileage, not a time range. Now, if I were going to store a bike for a long period of time, that would be a different story.
Yata-Garasu_imp
Running like a top
Thread starter
I found another oil filter that fits and seems like a sensible match for the CB1100.
The Super Tech MP6607 is the same filter as the ST6607, but the MP6607 has a silicone drain-back valve, while the regular ST6607 has a nitrile rubber drain-back valve.
Since the CB1100 is oil cooled, having a silicone drain-back valve which resists heat better than nitrile rubber makes good sense.
Of course, the Honda filter also has a silicone drain-back valve. But it should be illegal to sell $26 oil filters!
I'm glad there are good alternatives.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperTec...ndai-Kia-Infiniti-Nissan-and-Subaru/868600480
The Super Tech MP6607 is the same filter as the ST6607, but the MP6607 has a silicone drain-back valve, while the regular ST6607 has a nitrile rubber drain-back valve.
Since the CB1100 is oil cooled, having a silicone drain-back valve which resists heat better than nitrile rubber makes good sense.
Of course, the Honda filter also has a silicone drain-back valve. But it should be illegal to sell $26 oil filters!
I'm glad there are good alternatives.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperTec...ndai-Kia-Infiniti-Nissan-and-Subaru/868600480
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Dang. Oil filters are soooooo cheap in the U.S.Yata-Garasu_imp said:
Yata-Garasu_imp
Running like a top
Thread starter
Exactly! If you can get equivalent or superior quality, why pay $26 when you can get essentially the same thing for $6?GoldOxide_imp said:
Aren't Super Tech products available in Canada and Mexico too? I'm pretty sure they're sold in Mexico too, not sure about Canada.
Ps. If I had a new bike still under warranty, I could see using an OEM filter just to be safe.
My bike has been out of warranty for over 5 years. Honda doesn't need the extra $20 as much as I do!
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Exactly! If you can get equivalent or superior quality, why pay $26 when you can get essentially the same thing for $6?Yata-Garasu_imp said:
Aren't Super Tech products available in Canada and Mexico too? I'm pretty sure they're sold in Mexico too, not sure about Canada.
Ps. If I had a new bike still under warranty, I could see using an OEM filter just to be safe.
My bike has been out of warranty for over 5 years. Honda doesn't need the extra $20 as much as I do!
Some Super Tech products are sold in Walmart Canada, but not all products.
The reccomendation I've always seen was once every season if not meeting the mile requirements for a bike. A car is usually the 3/5k miles or every 6 months.Nachodaddy_imp said:
I assume this difference is because a car is generally used year round and a bike gets the winter months off in most regions.
Not really sure why but that's what I usually see reccomended.
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
Yata-Garasu_imp
Running like a top
Thread starter
The reccomendation I've always seen was once every season if not meeting the mile requirements for a bike. A car is usually the 3/5k miles or every 6 months.mvk24_imp said:
I assume this difference is because a car is generally used year round and a bike gets the winter months off in most regions.
Not really sure why but that's what I usually see recommended.
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
Agreed. What I learned was to change dino oil every 3k miles, synthetic oil every 5k miles, or annually, whichever comes first.
That's what I follow, but the mileage numbers are probably kind of random because different engines wear out oil at different rates.
My liquid cooled V-Twin Shadow has a much lower revving engine than the CB1100, and it doesn't get as hot either.
Since the CB1100 is air cooled and generally revs much higher, I think the CB1100 engine is probably much harder on oil than most other bikes. This is just a deduction as I haven't actually done oil testing and compared the used oil between the two bikes.
I use both my bikes for around town driving and I have a car too, so last year I averaged a bit less than 5k miles per vehicle, where in Texas we generally have a year round riding season with a slow month or two.
The reccomendation I've always seen was once every season if not meeting the mile requirements for a bike. A car is usually the 3/5k miles or every 6 months.Yata-Garasu_imp said:
I assume this difference is because a car is generally used year round and a bike gets the winter months off in most regions.
Not really sure why but that's what I usually see recommended.
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
Agreed. What I learned was to change dino oil every 3k miles, synthetic oil every 5k miles, or annually, whichever comes first.
That's what I follow, but the mileage numbers are probably kind of random because different engines wear out oil at different rates.
My liquid cooled V-Twin Shadow has a much lower revving engine than the CB1100, and it doesn't get as hot either.
Since the CB1100 is air cooled and generally revs much higher, I think the CB1100 engine is probably much harder on oil than most other bikes. This is just a deduction as I haven't actually done oil testing and compared the used oil between the two bikes.
I use both my bikes for around town driving and I have a car too, so last year I averaged a bit less than 5k miles per vehicle, where in Texas we generally have a year round riding season with a slow month or two. Very jealous of your Texas all season riding! I'm delayed moving down there but was looking forward to riding year round this year.
Looking forward to taking my bike down to Big Bend just gotta bring some extra gas for that one haha.
2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Yata-Garasu_imp
Running like a top
Thread starter
Paper or plastic?GoldOxide_imp said:
Paper please!
