oil filter cross threaded

jjchowdy_imp

First service completed
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I've been a lurker on this site ever since I caught a glimpse of the CB, and knew I wanted one. I've found so much useful knowledge and ideas on here, I'm hoping you guys could lend me a hand. I was doing my oil change on my 2013 CB1100 and managed to cross thread the filter. When trying to put a new one on, it binds up and looks like I've gummed up some of the threads on the oil filter bolt. My question is, has anyone had any experience with this? Or does anyone have any suggestions? The bolt doesn't look too bad, I was thinking I could maybe use a thread cleaner or something just to clean it up a little bit. I'm basically freaking out, and need some advice. This was the best place I could think of to come for answer. Thanks in advance guys. Help get me back on the road. It's beautiful in NC right now!!

:thanks:
 
I am reaching here and I would get opinions of pros or go to a machine shop, but I have used in the past on other bolts not the oil filter thread

Get a metric thread file of the proper thread and clean it up
Get a thread die of appropriate thread and clean it up

Is the threaded post a replaceable part or an integral part of the engine casing? Suggest you check the parts fiche.

Okay I just looked at the parts fiche for a 2013 it appears to be part 90019-MB0-000. I had it wrong the first time

Due your due diligence as this was for a 2013 I looked up
 
There are files used for dressing up threads in cases like this. I got mine from the Snap-on dealer back in the early 80's. They come in metric and SAE.

You could also run a thread die over it if you have one big enough.

Worse case, you'll have to replace the bolt but I don't think you'll need to go that route.
 
Its called the Boss, Oil Filter and costs about $7.27 at the dealer. Less on-line.

Or do what Elipten says and use a thread chaser to clean it up.

It is Item 17 in the Oil Pan/Oil Pump section of the fiche. Part number 90019-MB0-000
 
Find a die with the same thread and diameter. use a magnet if it is steel,( to catch the chips) while you chase out the threads. just go slow and make sure die is straight. you could try a vacuum to catch the chips. just make sure, none get into where the filter base usually contacts. any metal in the oil will make the problem with the thread seem unimportant. the die will not be available at a hardware or lowe's or home depot. You could try Little hardware, downtown, they have everything, or will tell you where to find it. check to see if that part is replaceable, or part of the block. if it can be replaced, go to the dealer there. just replace the part, much cheaper than a file or die that size.
 
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Lord Popgun_imp said:
Its called the Boss, Oil Filter and costs about $7.27 at the dealer. Less on-line.

Or do what Elipten says and use a thread chaser to clean it up.

It is Item 17 in the Oil Pan/Oil Pump section of the fiche. Part number 90019-MB0-000
I would definitely rather replace it, but it wasn't apparent to me how to remove the bolt. It honestly didn't look removable. I think the die or thread file would work, but I'm worried about metal shavings and would rather just replace it. I can't even think about splitting the cases if that needs to be done. it wouldn't be possible due to expense. This things only got 3500 miles on it.
 
You will have to jam two nuts together if you can get them started. The same for tightening up the new one.
 
Thread starter
The ferret_imp said:
You will have to jam two nuts together if you can get them started. The same for tightening up the new one.
unfortunately, if I could get the bolts on, I wouldn't have a problem. lol. It's apparent I'm not getting anything done tonight as it's getting dark. I think I'll look for the wife's Xanax and try to lower my blood pressure. I'm leaning towards the file/die solution because they don't appear to be too mangled. Admitting to my wife that I managed to screw up the bike she bought me the first time I tried to do anything to it will be another lesson in humility for me. Ugh. Thanks for all the replies guys.
 
get the new one, remove the old one with vise grips, not like you need it anymore. then put the new one with two nut one tightened against the other. the put in with a closed end wrench. and don't tell her anything.
 
Don't screw around with it and just replace it. It might take some heat to get it free from the block as they most likely used thread locker on it to keep it in place, but it will come out.
This is one of those things that I would never skimp on because having the threads on my oil filter let go when I'm doing 75 MPH in a curve on the freeway isn't my idea of a good time.
I just think that's it's better to be safe than sorry, especially when the cost for the replacement part is so low.

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/511a8d7cf870022e4ccd3241/oil-pan-oil-pump
 
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I'm thinking you may be right about the replacement. It's the type of thing that will bug the heck out of me if it's not perfect. If I can find one of these locally and have it up and running by the weekend, that would make me happy. I doubt it though. Might go ahead and order it. You guys are wise. Thank you so much. My DIY confidence is nonexistent right now.
 
The manual (for both '13 and '14) say when changing the oil filter, ensure the boss is tight. If not, apply locking agent and torque to specified value.

The boss specs are: Thread diameter: 20mm, torque 13 ft lbs. Apply locking agent.

The manual says to use medium strength locking agent, unless otherwise specified. Nothing is otherwise specified :) (for the boss, that is)
 
jjchowdy, if I were in your boots I'd be feeling about the same. I'd not be at all confident about how to get the thing out. Try search YouTube for a similar dilemma so you can at least get a sense of what you have to do. Or perhaps one of our very helpful colleagues can point you at one.

Alternatively, do you have a mate with the mechanical smarts whom you could enlist to help?

For what it's worth, if it were me, I'd also try to replace it.
 
Cormanus,

Since you don't care if it gets messed up, as it already is, just plug the holes around it so as to not get anything into the engine and spin it out using some vice grips, or channel locks or maybe even a small size pipe wrench. Medium strength locker should give up the ghost pretty easily.

13 ft lbs isn't much and on mine I might would just spin it in with a strap wrench till snug. Or MAYBE wrap something around the new one and use the small pipe wrench again. Unless I could get 2 nuts that would fit. Without doing the 2 nut thing I don't see how you would put a torque wrench on it.

Really though, it is not a big job. Or a hard or that critical one.
 
Thread starter
well I've definitely decided on replacing. The part is fairly common among Honda models. I"m gonna hit the phones early and see if I can find one locally. If I find one, I'll move on to removing the bolt from the engine. I'm gonna try vice grips and hope it breaks loose, put medium locker on new one and put in. I will definitely update as to where I'm at. At least if someone puts themselves in this position, they'll have a reference. I got the help I knew I would from you guys. Cheers. :beerchug:
 
Wait. Wait...don't skirt the real question here that everyone wants an answer to, a question that must be asked without changing this into (yet) another oil filter thread...especially since we all know it was agreed by all great CB1100 riders, so very long ago, that only OEM Honda oil filters are acceptable to the aforementioned all great CB1100 riders. That question is of course "what brand of oil filter was this?"
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Cormanus,

Since you don't care if it gets messed up, as it already is, just plug the holes around it so as to not get anything into the engine and spin it out using some vice grips, or channel locks or maybe even a small size pipe wrench. Medium strength locker should give up the ghost pretty easily.

13 ft lbs isn't much and on mine I might would just spin it in with a strap wrench till snug. Or MAYBE wrap something around the new one and use the small pipe wrench again. Unless I could get 2 nuts that would fit. Without doing the 2 nut thing I don't see how you would put a torque wrench on it.

Really though, it is not a big job. Or a hard or that critical one.
Did I say that? Don't think so. I was trying to say that you guys who know what's required make it all sound very easy. It probably is, but until I actually saw what had to be done, I might not find the written advice all that clear.

Is it right that the thread the oil filter screws into has been damaged? And that it's in a sleeve screwed into the engine? And that the only way to get it out is getting something inside it? If so, mechanical klutz that I am, I'd be treading very carefully—perhaps because I may not have the right tools and I'd be almost sure to make a mess which, clearly, I do not want to do because I don;t want little bits of metal in the oil.

I remain eager to learn though.
 
Thread starter
NightRider_imp said:
Wait. Wait...don't skirt the real question here that everyone wants an answer to, a question that must be asked without changing this into (yet) another oil filter thread...especially since we all know it was agreed by all great CB1100 riders, so very long ago, that only OEM Honda oil filters are acceptable to the aforementioned all great CB1100 riders. That question is of course "what brand of oil filter was this?"
K&N chrome filter. the kind with the nut on the end of it. I'll be using Honda OEM from now on
Cormanus_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Cormanus,

Since you don't care if it gets messed up, as it already is, just plug the holes around it so as to not get anything into the engine and spin it out using some vice grips, or channel locks or maybe even a small size pipe wrench. Medium strength locker should give up the ghost pretty easily.

13 ft lbs isn't much and on mine I might would just spin it in with a strap wrench till snug. Or MAYBE wrap something around the new one and use the small pipe wrench again. Unless I could get 2 nuts that would fit. Without doing the 2 nut thing I don't see how you would put a torque wrench on it.

Really though, it is not a big job. Or a hard or that critical one.
Did I say that? Don't think so. I was trying to say that you guys who know what's required make it all sound very easy. It probably is, but until I actually saw what had to be done, I might not find the written advice all that clear.

Is it right that the thread the oil filter screws into has been damaged? And that it's in a sleeve screwed into the engine? And that the only way to get it out is getting something inside it? If so, mechanical klutz that I am, I'd be treading very carefully—perhaps because I may not have the right tools and I'd be almost sure to make a mess which, clearly, I do not want to do because I don;t want little bits of metal in the oil.

I remain eager to learn though.
Did I say that? Don't think so. I was trying to say that you guys who know what's required make it all sound very easy. It probably is, but until I actually saw what had to be done, I might not find the written advice all that clear.

Is it right that the thread the oil filter screws into has been damaged? And that it's in a sleeve screwed into the engine? And that the only way to get it out is getting something inside it? If so, mechanical klutz that I am, I'd be treading very carefully—perhaps because I may not have the right tools and I'd be almost sure to make a mess which, clearly, I do not want to do because I don;t want little bits of metal in the oil.

I remain eager to learn though.
yes. the screw that the filter mounts to is damaged.so I took it that he was saying, if I damage it more taking it out, no real loss, as I'm replacing it anyways.
 
Yeah, I didn't meant that Cormanus didn't care. Sorry about that. Cause he is a caring man :)

I just meant that since it is already damaged, you don't care if you damage it more removing it as it will then be replaced by a new one.

PS. Cormanus, its just a piece of threaded pipe that is screwed into a threaded hole in the crankcase.

I have to go to bed now, work tomorrow :)
 
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