the Ferret
Road warrior
you can probably realize when some people are talking metric though... (unlike me :blush: )
oil change
- Thread starter CA200_imp
- Start date
flynrider
Road warrior
I was thinking the difference between our warranty and the European warranty was that they were using metric years. :huh:
ClassicVW_imp
Road warrior
Not too many years ago most if not all car manuals said change the oil filter every other oil change.
ryanschillinger_imp
Running like a top
Yeah I changed mine at 463 miles last night. The plug came off very easily but the filter was tightened so hard the metal housing had actually gouged the mounting surface on the engine! It was a big pain to get off.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Ryan, there have been reports of tight filters since the bike came out. Guess you got one 
So first time I did mine I got ready to do battle and it just came right off. Weird stuff sometimes
So first time I did mine I got ready to do battle and it just came right off. Weird stuff sometimes TCinNC_imp
Running like a top
You can say that again! When I did my oil change at 600 miles my "usual" filter wrench wouldn't touch it. I bought one of those slip on type that you use a 3/8 ratchet with and immediately broke the spot welds on the tool. Then I purchased a large offset plier type wrench from O'Reilly's and with a lot of effort the filter broke loose. I have no idea why that filter was torqued so tightly.Lord Popgun_imp said:Ryan, there have been reports of tight filters since the bike came out. Guess you got one
ryanschillinger_imp
Running like a top
I tried my pretty stout strap type filter wrench and felt like I was going to break it. The filter pliers ended up getting it loose after trying a bunch of different angles and slipping. Even with the teeth that dig into the filter. I'll try to post a pic but the mounting surface on the engine is actually gouged from the filter being cranked on so tight. The filter housing was tightened into the block!
WOW, that's excessive to say the least!!!
Many of us here had very tight oil filters from the factory too, but I think this is the first one that caused a scar on the engine case.
Mine was an absolute bear to break loose, but it eventually loosened. There was clearance between the filter case and the engine face so there was no scar on the engine.
If these are fitted by hand those Japanese boys must be eating their Wheaties for breakfast
Many of us here had very tight oil filters from the factory too, but I think this is the first one that caused a scar on the engine case.
Mine was an absolute bear to break loose, but it eventually loosened. There was clearance between the filter case and the engine face so there was no scar on the engine.
If these are fitted by hand those Japanese boys must be eating their Wheaties for breakfast
kmoney_imp
Road warrior
That's nuts. Mine needed water-pump pliers to get it off, but nothing close to that. It's kinda funny because the way our factory filter are designed (o-ring style seal and hard metal base) cranking it down hard actually does nothing to make it seal better vs just putting it on properly -- I guess no one told the guys at the factory that.
redbirds_imp
Road warrior
I had this same problem first oil change on my Kawasaki Mule. Took a 1/2" drive strap wrench and a breaker bar to get the filter off.
The photo seems to show an unpolished contact area where the filter seats. Maybe it's the photo angle but it appears different. Could that have something to do with the difficulty removing the original filter?
The photo seems to show an unpolished contact area where the filter seats. Maybe it's the photo angle but it appears different. Could that have something to do with the difficulty removing the original filter?
kennyw
Road warrior
To me, it looks like they failed to machine (or mask during paint) the mating surface for the o-ring.ryanschillinger_imp said:I tried my pretty stout strap type filter wrench and felt like I was going to break it. The filter pliers ended up getting it loose after trying a bunch of different angles and slipping. Even with the teeth that dig into the filter. I'll try to post a pic but the mounting surface on the engine is actually gouged from the filter being cranked on so tight. The filter housing was tightened into the block!
ryanschillinger_imp
Running like a top
I'll try to see if the other picture was in better focus. But no. The mounting area is smooth, only gouged where the filter body was bottomed out.
Here maybe looks better. It was already dark when I snapped these so they aren't the best pics.
Looking at it I'm tempted to contact Honda and see what they have to say. I don't ever remember having that tough a time removing a filter. And I used to do oil changes all day for work...
Here maybe looks better. It was already dark when I snapped these so they aren't the best pics.
Looking at it I'm tempted to contact Honda and see what they have to say. I don't ever remember having that tough a time removing a filter. And I used to do oil changes all day for work...
0011bc_imp
Running like a top
im a pipefitter. my filter gets removed with channel locks and tightened with my meat wrench!
ClassicVW_imp
Road warrior
Makes you wonder what other things they may have tightened too much or too little during assembly? :huh:
Ulvetanna_imp
Road warrior
Yes that's correct and a good policy. Also that image where the paint is gouged, that's just plain wrong. That surface should have been machined smooth.Lord Popgun_imp said:
Another question, what is wrong with buying an oil filter wrench?; you can get one at any decent auto parts store. All these pliers and strap wrenches, they slip, damage your bike, damage your skin. I use the Honda tool but the same size can be had almost anywhere filter wrenches are sold. Just take your new filter to the auto parts store and match it up before doing the work.
Dang on this site I have seen more guys have problems with oil filters and oil...
Thought that's what motorcycle forums were for ...Ulvetanna_imp said:
Ulvetanna_imp
Road warrior
Thought that's what motorcycle forums were for ... I think you are right.Cormanus_imp said:
riceburner_imp
Running like a top
Changed my oil and filter today at 601 miles.Honda oil and filter,old filter came off very easily,torqued the new one to the spec in this thread,actually to 4lbs less as it seemed excessively tight to me(19 lbs,where did that number come from?,i did 15 lbs and think it's too tight),the drain plug also broke loose very easily,reinstalled and torqued to 22lbs as per earlier in this thread.Filled the crankcase with 4 qts minus about 1 ounce(going by whats left in the bottom of the qt container),ran it and checked=right on the top line.Took a 10 or 15 mile ride and checked again,still on the top line.I'm used to doing oil filters by hand plus another 1/4 turn when they get snug,think i'll do it that way next time.For those of you looking for an oil filter wrench/socket i have a Vector part number 17009,fits the filter perfect and has a square hole for a 3/8 inch drive,turn the front wheel sideways and use a small extension and everything clears nicely,to remove after installing and torqueing new filter use a long screwdriver from the right side of the bike and pry on the edge of the filter socket,it has to pop off cockeyed to clear the exhaust.Also installed my Honda engine guards today,14 mm sockets for the upper end and 8mm for the lower outside chromed bolt head and 10 mm for the black inside nut.The Honda installation directions i downloaded(didn't come in the box)have the sizes listed as 10mm flange bolt(upper) and lower 6 mm flange nut and bolt.This may be the shaft size of the bolts 9didn't measure it)but is not the socket sizes that fit the bolt and nut heads.Torqued to spec.Lubed chain,and checked for loose nuts and bolts,didn't find any.
postoak_imp
Been there
I wonder if K&N makes a filter for this bike. They have a 17 mm (IIRC) nut welded onto the end so you can use a socket and 1/2" drive breaker.
