Oil Change Time!

I treat my CB1100 better as it deserves and specified in the Honda manual.
As a return, she serves me fantastic without any failure so far. Period!!
 
Thread starter
SportsterDoc_imp said:
InMy Moto Guzzi had a separate sump for the transmission and also had a dry clutch; but I did not use automotive oil to lubricate the engine for at least two reasons:
1. There are additives / detergents in automotive oils that may not be good for a motorcycle engine.
2. Automotive oils have less zddp.

Is there a difference between motorcycle and scooter engine oil?

Same with my Can-Am Ryker. It has a separate transmission sump for forward-reverse (ratios change by CVT) and no wet clutch.

Also, 10W60, as specified for the Moto Guzzi and 10W50, as needed for the Ryker at temps above 104 F may be difficult to find an automotive oils.

As for 0W20 or even 5W20 oils, there are many automotive manufacturers having serious oil consumption issues with their engines for which of these weight of oils have been specified.

Changing oil on an air-cooled motorcycle at 3,000 miles can be beneficial.

Using pure synthetic oil is most likely beneficial.

Using oil filter without a bypass valve is questionable.

Using automotive oil to save a few dollars may be costly in the long run.
Sportster Doc, I read the Rymax link you sent. Thanks for the link. Here is my commentary.
They point to two reasons that point to the formulation differences between car and bike that their warnings are based on:
1) Car oils have friction modifiers
2) Car oils have detergents

So, looking back in this thread I pointed to the API symbol, and according to my understanding, you do not want to use car oils that have these. I have personally had to change my clutch plates after using car oils with friction modifiers that caused my friction plates to slip. I suppose Rymax might call this "major motorcycle damage". So, you do not need to convince me on this one. That clutch pack change was on a Honda '88 Hawk GT I had two decades ago. That was a PITA! Ever since then, and having learned my lesson, I have never used car oil with friction modifiers. You must avoid any oil that says "Energy Conserving, or Resource Conserving". It is my understanding, and also my experience in the two decades since (and many, many oil changes on many, many brands and engine configurations: twins, inline 4's, V-4's). I have NEVER had a problem since. I would consider that last statement as anecdotal evidence from one person on a board.....Some modifier ingredients could include Teflon. There are also likely others I cannot list or name as there are many proprietary formulations that are not divulged. In short, don't use them. Their warning says "Using the wrong oil can seriously damage your motorcycle." If you use synthetic oil (w/o friction modifiers that could impact your clutch), then both motor and gear box should be happy as they are well lubed and protected from wear.

The second detergents..."that could result in formulation of deposits on piston crowns and as well as the valve train".
Ahem. I am sorry on this one. As far as I know, there is nothing inherently different between car and motorcycle pistons or valvetrains, or inherently different in their basic Internal Combustion Engine construction. If I am wrong here, please tell me where. Seriously, I don't know everything and could be educated. I mean that respectfully.
There are some m/c specific designs you generally do not see in cars, like the desmodomic valve actuation system used by Ducati, or in cars (mostly abandoned push rod actuation....but still used by Harley). Maybe someone can explain to me the inherent significant difference in a piston designed for use for a car, and one for a bike. They all run the gamut in terms of compression ratios, but most now in either category are made of light-weight alloys with coated cylinders. Many in either have variable valve timing schemes. Most have chain driven overhead cams for valve actuation in either.
The warning on detergents "these could result in the formation of deposits on the piston crowns as well as the valve train. Because detergents are the main cause of pressure build up, this will cause perforation and burning on the components".

I am sorry and am going to call BS on this one and point it to marketing. I will call "true" to the friction modifiers. Don't use oil that has them. So detergents don't cause damage to car piston crowns and valves, but they do on bikes? Also, I thought the point of detergents was to avoid build up on components. I look at it like this. If deposits form on pistons, then they can heat and cause preignition resulting in damage. But I thought detergents help prevent this. I call this marketing with frightening statements to corral us. That's me though and all IMHO.

Interestingly, on the Guzzi threads, some there are lamenting the use of Motul and other Racing oils because of their lack of detergents!

In terms of Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), zinc and phosphorus used as an anti-wear agent, those have been phased out of motor oil formulations in recent years because the zinc and phosphorus found in ZDDP can negatively affect catalytic converters. From Amsoil "classic-car owners having older vehicles with flat-tappet camshafts and, in particular, engines that include high-tension valve springs or other modifications that create high contact pressures, can suffer premature wear due to reduced ZDDP levels". So those guys want that.

TO ME, don't buy oils with the wrong API symbol. I used photos to show you (MY understanding) of a right one and wrong one.

One last wrt to your 10W60. Wow, that is oddball. wildguzzi and guzzitech have lots on that. If you are worried about shear taking down the weight to 40W-50W in only 1-2K miles, I might just change more often. The Mobil-1 20W50 is $4/q. That oddball 60W is $15/q! What is the recommended change interval? How much effort is it to do it?

In the Wildguzzi thread on the 10W60, SmithSwede says:
"Great psychological analysis of oil threads! I'd add one other point---it is an interesting psychological fact that people worry so much about oil, and "protecting their engine," when the vast majority of them don't get anywhere close to using the normal service life of the machine.

If you are only going to run the bike 10 to 30,000 miles before you sell it for something else, it probably doesn't matter that much what oil you use if it's decent quality and at least close to the recommended specification. For these people, the engine isn't going to wear out in any meaningful sense---you are going to divorce it long before you could perceive any differences between Oil A versus Oil B.

Seems to me that the only people who should rationally obsess about the subtle nuances of tribology are people who really do plan to run the engine 200,000, 300,000, or more miles. There probably are a few such people on a Guzzi forum; not so much on a Ducati race bike forum. "

LOL.
One maybe last post on this very old and possibly tired topic.

In the end, it may be best to just do whatever it is that gives you comfort you are doing the best job possible to protect your investment (ahem, depreciating asset) and what makes you sleep well at night.

Some of the stuff you see from me is based on a fact that I am an extremely frugal person....in a sense, in that I like to do things myself and save money (including things like buying cheap sets of quality tires at sale prices in Winter, and mounting/balancing them myself), and also trust in my own mechanical expertise, that there are a great number of fine details I will take that a paid mechanic will not. Case in point is cleaning my case with a brush till new, no paid mechanic will do. I do this when addressing my brakes, with everything cleaned and freshly lubed, whereas a paid mechanic will just slap in the new pads. I extend this mindset everywhere in my existence, to building my own house (bomb shelter), to working on my cars, to fixing anything. With the money saved, I am "free" to splurge on the things that make my hobbies have more satisfaction and fun. Standing back and looking at the modification to my CB knowing it was done right and the least cost possible is a way to derive tremendous satisfaction to me.

As to oil, as was said earlier, and it is like debating religion, "has the debate changed anyone's mind yet?"
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
The ferret_imp said:
:rofl:

LOL not hardly.

Wonder if anyone's mind and methods have been changed
Probably not. Forgot to mention that I used Honda oil filters at every change.

I do not want to dampen Jambo's enthusiasm (although a Reader's Digest version would be easier to follow) but bypass valves have two purposes:

1. Already mentioned by Jambo, to allow oil flow to continue if the filter media becomes clogged.

2. To allow cold, relatively thick oil to flow upon cold starts. Without a bypass valve, oil flow could be reduced/impeded upon cold startup.
Probably not. Forgot to mention that I used Honda oil filters at every change.

I do not want to dampen Jambo's enthusiasm (although a Reader's Digest version would be easier to follow) but bypass valves have two purposes:

1. Already mentioned by Jambo, to allow oil flow to continue if the filter media becomes clogged.

2. To allow cold, relatively thick oil to flow upon cold starts. Without a bypass valve, oil flow could be reduced/impeded upon cold startup.

Well I’m going to OEM filter after today’s ride. I’ve read the horror stories about the K&N and never use them. I’ve been using the hiflow racing . I was out riding wonder where the oil smell was coming from 300 miles into the ride I realize my rear brakes weren’t working so good the spot weld on the nut broke on the filter and started blowing oil back


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That's no good, dean. Glad you're OK. When Pterodactyl's K&N filter suffered the same fate, I had to go riding to the next town to find a replacement. All I could get was a HiFlow Premium, but that didn't have the spot-welded nut and was fine. Seems to me spot-welding a nut on the end of a filter is a design weakness.

At the time of Pterodactyl's mishap, I also had a K&N filter on the bike and replaced it immediately with a HiFlow Premium. It was fine.
 
aww geez, that's no good.


Are the HiFlows made by K&N? or just a similar design?
 
I sleep well at night because I use the OEM filter and Mobil 1 10/40 synthetic motor cycle oil. How much is a good night sleep worth in dollars ?
 
Ferret, dunno, but I will never again buy an oil filter with a nut spot welded on to it.

Houtman, $516.24.
 
Jambo
It would facilitate response if you would number each chapter in your book / post.

Meanwhile you may want to research the effects of ash, phosphorous and sulfur content in 2T oil relating to the potential effect on motorcycle valve stems.. the CB 1100 has 16 of them.

Another research suggestion would be regarding the additives used in 4T oil specifically for high RPM motorcycle engines.

When I buy a vehicle I service it as though I were going to keep it forever.
 
BTW, Can-Am specifies 4T oil for a 8250 RPM motor, separate from trans.
 
Cormanus_imp said:
That's no good, dean. Glad you're OK. When Pterodactyl's K&N filter suffered the same fate, I had to go riding to the next town to find a replacement. All I could get was a HiFlow Premium, but that didn't have the spot-welded nut and was fine. Seems to me spot-welding a nut on the end of a filter is a design weakness.

At the time of Pterodactyl's mishap, I also had a K&N filter on the bike and replaced it immediately with a HiFlow Premium. It was fine.

I just had a hiflow go south yesterday I posted in mechanical and tech... bad deal the nut weld failed


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Thread starter
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Jambo
It would facilitate response if you would number each chapter in your book / post.

Meanwhile you may want to research the effects of ash, phosphorous and sulfur content in 2T oil relating to the potential effect on motorcycle valve stems.. the CB 1100 has 16 of them.

Another research suggestion would be regarding the additives used in 4T oil specifically for high RPM motorcycle engines.

When I buy a vehicle I service it as though I were going to keep it forever.
Sportster Doc,
Sorry you don't like my lengthy posts. You should see my CL ads! The people that buy stuff from me like the fact that I provide detailed information and answer all their questions before they ask, while others personally attack me for it. For them, I suppose they prefer the one grainy picture and ad text that says "come and get it".

You (and others) made a lot of points and I responded to each one, and that took some thought and typing.

I said I don't need a bypass and explained why, in that the oil is never going to get dirty enough, nor will I ride at subzero temperatures to need one.

I responded about the oil company marketing about dangerous zinc and phosphors with the argument that those have been phased out of modern oils. They are using an old argument that no longer applies and is invalid to make their marketing pitch.

I asked why the car detergent additives don't cause buildup on car pistons and valvetrains, but the marketing claims those will occur on bikes. You did not respond to that.

My Honda car redline is "only" 6700 rpm, while the CB1100 redline is 8500, a 27% difference. If I put fresh Mobil-1 full synthetic (no energy conserving) car oil in by CB1100 every 3,000 miles, that additional 27% rev increase is going to cause the oil to breakdown in that low interval? Lets not even get into the fact that you will live at 3-5,000 rpms for the overwhelming majority of the life of the motor, whether you are in your car, your Guzzi, your Can Am, or your CB1100.

Your response is I need to do more research.
I think I am being practical and logical (yes, and frugal too), not emotional about it.
So I ask, what in the motorcycle oils (additives) cost the manufacturer 400% more that justifies the retail price 400% increase? What research have you done you can point me to that answers that question?

Perhaps we can agree to disagree, but I am asking you to resist just responding to that only, and actually provide real counterpoints or answers to my questions.
 
Please disregard my previous references to 2T (2 stroke oil), which should have read automotive oil.

1. 400% price differential?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/pow...+one&pos=1

After run-in and with the onset of summer in Las Vegas, the final oil used for the CB was Castrol Power One 10W40, a pure synthetic 4T oil: $10.69 per quart or $9.99 on sale. Are you claiming that you purchase your preference for $2.67 per quart or $2.50 on sale?

2. Per your post 1, you stated your intention to spin people up with staunch opinions. Most forum members are probably laughing that I even responded. However, I would not want another CB owner to think that it is wise to follow your advise on using automotive oil. What empirical data have you cited to support so doing?

3. My Ryker is ~7,000 RPMs at 75 MPH. Due to the CVT, RPMs are NOT proportional to speed (107 MPH is 8200 RPMs)

4. Are you claiming that 4T oils are non-detergent?

5. Are you claiming that automotive oils have the same additives as 4T regarding survival at higher RPMs?

6. You may disregard ZDDP, as it has been replaced by other additives (at a higher level in 4T) to save catalytic converters.

7. Why would Bombadier Recreational Products/Can-Am recommend a 4T oil for a vehicle with a separate transmission and a dry clutch?

8. Are you confident that automotive oils have the same shear stability as 4T to properly lubricate the CB transmission gears? The Ryker trans was prepped with XPS 5W40, but 75W140 recommended for high temp operation, which is what I changed to at 1200 miles before summer weather.
 
Thread starter
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Please disregard my previous references to 2T (2 stroke oil), which should have read automotive oil.

1. 400% price differential?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/pow...+one&pos=1

After run-in and with the onset of summer in Las Vegas, the final oil used for the CB was Castrol Power One 10W40, a pure synthetic 4T oil: $10.69 per quart or $9.99 on sale. Are you claiming that you purchase your preference for $2.67 per quart or $2.50 on sale?

2. Per your post 1, you stated your intention to spin people up with staunch opinions. Most forum members are probably laughing that I even responded. However, I would not want another CB owner to think that it is wise to follow your advise on using automotive oil. What empirical data have you cited to support so doing?

3. My Ryker is ~7,000 RPMs at 75 MPH. Due to the CVT, RPMs are NOT proportional to speed (107 MPH is 8200 RPMs)

4. Are you claiming that 4T oils are non-detergent?

5. Are you claiming that automotive oils have the same additives as 4T regarding survival at higher RPMs?

6. You may disregard ZDDP, as it has been replaced by other additives (at a higher level in 4T) to save catalytic converters.

7. Why would Bombadier Recreational Products/Can-Am recommend a 4T oil for a vehicle with a separate transmission and a dry clutch?

8. Are you confident that automotive oils have the same shear stability as 4T to properly lubricate the CB transmission gears? The Ryker trans was prepped with XPS 5W40, but 75W140 recommended for high temp operation, which is what I changed to at 1200 miles before summer weather.

1) Your right. 400% was compared to conventional oils, which probably would also work just fine. To be 100% factual, I can get the oil I use (full synthetic) for $4.75/q (including tax every day) to your $10.59 (including tax on sale), for only a 223% difference.
2) I wasn't trying to spin people up, but I thought it would. It did. I am not providing advice, I am providing opinion. Same as you. Yes, I am sure people are laughing at me as you insinuate. I am sure you are aware of what everyone on this board's opinions are about mine, so thanks. My empirical data, as was previously claimed, was that I have been doing this for decades, over 30 different bikes, and 20 cars. So, experience, which to me is the best empirical evidence there is. You are of course, free to dismiss.
3) Any synthetic oil, and dino juice for that matter, will work quite well at 8 or even 10,000 rpms. I prefer synthetic. It's slippier.
4) No. Some people have stated detergents are harmful. The link YOU provided said "Also, these oils [automotive] contain detergent additives, whose ash content is relatively high. If used in motorcycle engines, these could result in the formation of deposits on the piston crowns as well as the valve train. Because detergents are the main cause of pressure build up, this will cause perforation and burning on the components." So they claim automotive detergents are going to perf my piston crowns. Got it. Note the craftily chosen words "could result" and "relatively high". Vague enough purposefully to render meaningless. I was responding to that, and countered detergents don't cause problems, but the link you provided says detergents are the main cause. So, which side are you on? Detergents harmful or not? Maybe you are claiming the detergents in 4T are dramatically different. The manufacturers sure suggest that, with of course, zero evidence to back that up or carbon string data on their formulations. The reason they do this (to me) is if they actually gave you any useful information about it, then their claims can be disproven by research and testing. The way they do it, that is not possible.
5). No. But since neither of us can provide any evidence of any kind what additives are in car or motorcycle specific oil, there is no way to prove anything about that.
6) Point?
7) Well you would have to ask Bombadier about that. I don't work for them, but I found it interesting to note that it was an oddball weight/formulation that they are all to happy to offer you for only $102 for the oil, filter, o-rings and washer:
[url=https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/ca/en/shop/parts_maintenance/xps_maintenance_products/start_up_oil_change_/xps-4t-5w-40-synthetic-blend-oil-change-kit-for-rotax-991-se5-en.html]https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/ca/en/shop/parts_maintenance/xps_maintenance_products/start_up_oil_change_/xps-4t-5w-40-synthetic-blend-oil-change-kit-for-rotax-991-se5-en.html

The o-ring and washer being worth about $0.30.
But them, just like Honda always recommend that you use their oils specifically, and invariably at a high premium. Note, no manufacturer can deny your warranty claims if you do not use their brand of oil as long as you provide proof you do the service. No matter, I am not the original owner of my 2014 that would not be under warranty anyway for those two reasons (not original and date). Our own Honda manual calls for three things:
a) JASO T 903 Standard MA
b) SAE standard 10W-30
c) API classification SG or higher.
They also specifically state ...."exclude oils marked Energy Conserving, or Resource Conserving". Just like I said. The main provision of MA is that it was designed for motorcycles that have their clutches bathed in the same oil as the engine. Excluding the friction modifiers inherent in the Mobil-1 I use lacking Energy Conserving, or Resource Conserving in the API symbol accomplishes that. There is nothing magical about the weight designation. I would be quite comfortable using the Mobil-1 20W-50 (without the Energy Conserving, or Resource Conserving), and I have. It does fine in normal temperatures and I will not ride at 0F. The SG designation has long ago been surpassed by higher standards. The Mobil-1 I use says it meets SN and SM on the back of the container; the latest specifications.
8). Yes, basically. But no matter which oil you put in, car, motorcycle, or Back-to-the-Future time machine Delorean, the shear properties will degrade over time. More so it you live always at redline, which no one is ever going to do, and/or operate in high temperatures (which apparently you do). What I will say is, it doesn't matter. What little degradation there COULD be, will be replaced at such a low interval that fresh is replacing it anyway back to the stock initial weight upon introducing it into the motor/trans. I will also say, I might be atypical of the average CB1100 buyer (yes typical in that I am approaching 60, have disposable income, and an affinity to vintage and retro), but am a sportbike guy at the core. So, to me, the performance potential of any machine means a lot to me. I will hit the rev limiter on my CB more than most, in all likelihood, but I still won't live there. I will boldly proclaim that the degradation over 3000 miles will be insignificant as to be rendered irrelevant (opinion).

Since I change my oil at ridiculously low intervals, using the cheapest possible oil there is, say Walmart Supertech 10W40 for only $2.75 (including tax), would probably be just fine, and the bike would likely outlive me. But to me, for only $8 more, I can do the full synthetic, so I do. I wipe my a$$ with $8 (that's four wipes: one 5 and three 1's), but if I was going to pay $102 per change, did it on my intervals (3K), over the course of 30K miles, that would be over $1K. That I would scoff at. My way, with Mobil-1 full synthetic and my reusable oil filter, it would cost only $200 in comparison. That is a lot of service money if something went wrong (which it never has).
 
Cue the popcorn eating smiley...
 
To all: I apologize for contributing to the length of this thread, but hope popgun finished his popcorn.

Jambo: Enjoy your CB.
 
A lot to read but I will stick to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10/40 motor cycle oil which I used on my last 30 bikes and NEVER had any problems or issues. Also I keep using the OEM Honda oil filters .
PS I do not care much for popcorn !
 
Thread starter
SportsterDoc_imp said:
To all: I apologize for contributing to the length of this thread, but hope popgun finished his popcorn.

Jambo: Enjoy your CB.
You too. Smoke 'em peace pipe.
 
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