Oil Change 2700 miles

CIP57_imp

Road warrior
Thread starter
Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.
 
CIP57_imp said:
Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.
I was wondering about that Oil cooler.No mention at all about
any maintenance schedule for it.Plus no specs or how much
oil it circulates.I wonder how long it takes to capture oil and
how long to fully release it back to the engine.
 
CIP57_imp said:
Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.
I take it yer using the { after disassembly } spec.
Which means I have to find out how the oil is circulated.
In order for an Oil cooler to be effective it has to circulate the
engine oil.If about a quart remains in the oil cooler unit than
that really screws up using a synthetic.I just got thru buying
4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 at the Honda dealer I bought the bike.
It's a newer Amsoil made especially for metrics and wet clutches.
I need this issue addressed.No way can I mix a full synthetic
10w-40 with the assembled 10w-30 petroleum.
 
Thread starter
Not a problem, it will eventually work its way through with continuous oil changes. I've changed over to full synthetic and she didn't blow up:)
 
CIP57_imp said:
Not a problem, it will eventually work its way through with continuous oil changes. I've changed over to full synthetic and she didn't blow up:)
But the whole point behind using a synthetic is better protection
and cuts in half the necessary oil changes.Meaning you get
double the coverage for also double/triple the price.
I noticed my old Honda dealer which is now just a Kasasaki
dealer had a bunch of Honda oil on their shelf.The little white
price stickers said $ 9.99. I said ... whoa thar Wilbur.I have
an emergency quart of Honda back home somewhere in my closet.
Yep,the same exact quart of Honda GN4 with the same little white
price sticker read $ 3.89. I got it about 4 years ago.
 
_imp said:
CIP57_imp said:
Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.
I take it yer using the { after disassembly } spec.
Which means I have to find out how the oil is circulated.
In order for an Oil cooler to be effective it has to circulate the
engine oil.If about a quart remains in the oil cooler unit than
that really screws up using a synthetic.I just got thru buying
4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 at the Honda dealer I bought the bike.
It's a newer Amsoil made especially for metrics and wet clutches.
I need this issue addressed.No way can I mix a full synthetic
10w-40 with the assembled 10w-30 petroleum.
Why not? It will be just fine.
 
AzBob_imp said:
_imp said:
CIP57_imp said:
Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.
I take it yer using the { after disassembly } spec.
Which means I have to find out how the oil is circulated.
In order for an Oil cooler to be effective it has to circulate the
engine oil.If about a quart remains in the oil cooler unit than
that really screws up using a synthetic.I just got thru buying
4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 at the Honda dealer I bought the bike.
It's a newer Amsoil made especially for metrics and wet clutches.
I need this issue addressed.No way can I mix a full synthetic
10w-40 with the assembled 10w-30 petroleum.
Why not? It will be just fine.
Why not? It will be just fine.
I'm not an oil fanatic but I have a Harley buddy who is.
Yes,synthetic can /may be used with a petroleum.If not than those
Synthetic blends { Synthetic/Petroleum } like Honda's GP4
wouldn't make sense.But it isn't advisable to mix different
viscosity like a 10w-30 with a 10w-40.
I learned via the { Chris Harris } YouTube videos about proper
oil change.And that one should remove the oil filter First,then drain the oil.Wipe the inside of the oil filter housing with a clean rag or
paper towel to get rid of any sludge buildup.Plus ... and this is
really neat. use the OLD oil you drained to smear around the new
oil filter rubber seal.Because using new oil,especially synthetic,which is thin and slippery could cause the rubber seal to bond with the
crankcase.
 
All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.

The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.

Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.

If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
 
Deanohh_imp said:
All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.

The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.

Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.

If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
No argument that when an engine goes w/o oil,even if only
a few seconds,it can cause damage.So a complely empty oil cooler would deprive the engine whatever amount it takes to run.
meaning about a quart low.That is why maybe Honda should have
put a temp gauge for the oil cooler to show how it is cooling.
A thermostat at least.Which I'm sure is somewhere within the unit.
The entire reason Harley run on 20w-50 { thicker oil } is in
helping to cool the engine when it gets hot,like in the summer months.
I think you've got it ass backwards.10w-30 would be better for
cooler months and easier starting.because in cooler months a
bike doesn't require cooling as much as in the dead of summer.
I don't think lighter weight fluid { 10w-30 } flowing easier
translates into the oil cooler being more efficient for cooling.
Easier flowing oil would also be more suspectible to degradation
and evaporation due to heat transfer.Lighter weight oil would
heat faster ... got it.
 
Deanohh_imp said:
If it heats faster, it cools faster. Thermo conductivity works both ways.
Wrong.get yer head right.
The entire reason Harley cruisers require 20w-50 is
because they are air-cooled.Therefore they are expected to
run hotter than the water-cooled metrics.Which require
10w-40.
Plus many Harley models have oil cooler units on them.
Which totally blows yer theory all to heck.
 
_imp said:
Deanohh_imp said:
All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.

The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.

Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.

If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?
No argument that when an engine goes w/o oil,even if only
a few seconds,it can cause damage.So a complely empty oil cooler would deprive the engine whatever amount it takes to run.
meaning about a quart low.That is why maybe Honda should have
put a temp gauge for the oil cooler to show how it is cooling.
A thermostat at least.Which I'm sure is somewhere within the unit.
The entire reason Harley run on 20w-50 { thicker oil } is in
helping to cool the engine when it gets hot,like in the summer months.
I think you've got it ass backwards.10w-30 would be better for
cooler months and easier starting.because in cooler months a
bike doesn't require cooling as much as in the dead of summer.
I don't think lighter weight fluid { 10w-30 } flowing easier
translates into the oil cooler being more efficient for cooling.
Easier flowing oil would also be more suspectible to degradation
and evaporation due to heat transfer.Lighter weight oil would
heat faster ... got it.
At least, there is an oil temp lamp in the dashboards which shows up red when the oil temp is too high. MAnual says that in such cases the engine should be stop asap and you should wait and let the engine cool down.
 
Dang.... An argument over oil. Imagine that!

I trust Honda engineers, they designed the motor, it is their job to tell me how best to take care of it, and if they say use 10w30 dino oil ( and that 10w40 dino oil is ok too), ... THAT ... is good enough for me.

If they say drain the oil first, then the oil filter .... THAT .... is good enough for me too.

Will other methods and other lubricants also work? Undoubtedly. Necessary or better? Not necessarily. Could be..might not be. I am not an engineer...and I don't play one on the internet.
Since I am not an engineer on metallurgy or an expert on the properties of oil, I will rely on real engineers to tell me what they have determined is necessary to keep my engine running at it's peak. It's clearly spelled out in my owners manual and service manual.

If you choose to believe in superstitions, wive's tales, rumors, internet horror stories of a friend of a friend who had a buddy who, or a buddy who rides an X and is a fanatic about oil, that is certainly your prerogative.

You are certainly free to express your opinion, but please keep the discussion civil so that Guth and I don't receive complaints and are forced to step in and do something. That is all we ask.
 
CIP57_imp said:
Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.
when people change oil in the CB1100, they change only 80% of dirty oil, not 99% like others
my brother is car fanatic, everytime he change oil, he does it twice. First, put in new oil and run for 5-10 min, then drain and put in a new oil again to make sure the internal is clean. All in Synthetic!!
 
The ferret_imp said:
Dang.... An argument over oil. Imagine that!

I trust Honda engineers, they designed the motor, it is their job to tell me how best to take care of it, and if they say use 10w30 dino oil ( and that 10w40 dino oil is ok too), ... THAT ... is good enough for me.

If they say drain the oil first, then the oil filter .... THAT .... is good enough for me too.

Will other methods and other lubricants also work? Undoubtedly. Necessary or better? Not necessarily. Could be..might not be. I am not an engineer...and I don't play one on the internet.
Since I am not an engineer on metallurgy or an expert on the properties of oil, I will rely on real engineers to tell me what they have determined is necessary to keep my engine running at it's peak. It's clearly spelled out in my owners manual and service manual.

If you choose to believe in superstitions, wive's tales, rumors, internet horror stories of a friend of a friend who had a buddy who, or a buddy who rides an X and is a fanatic about oil, that is certainly your prerogative.

You are certainly free to express your opinion, but please keep the discussion civil so that Guth and I don't receive complaints and are forced to step in and do something. That is all we ask.
A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German. :D Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...! :D)

But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right? :cool:
 
A couple points here. If you change the filter with each oil change the "dirty" oil is not that big of a problem.

Mixing of oils is also not that big of an issue. Oils break down over time, especially in hot air cooled engines, to their base viscosity which is the same for the 10w30 and 10w40 and 10w50 etc. So mixing of oils is a red herring. Any oil in quantity is better than no oil and if you maintain regular maintenance intervals for the bike, sooner when it sees hard service, you can mix brands and weights to your hearts content will little ill effect. But you will get better results using recommended oil.

Naturally, if you stick with one weight and brand of oil it won't take many oil changes and you will have purged your system of any trace of that evil break in oil. I think the more important fact is that you are riding and taking care of your motorcycle. God help you if you don't adjust your chain properly though! :P
 
Rboe_imp said:
A couple points here. If you change the filter with each oil change the "dirty" oil is not that big of a problem.

Mixing of oils is also not that big of an issue. Oils break down over time, especially in hot air cooled engines, to their base viscosity which is the same for the 10w30 and 10w40 and 10w50 etc. So mixing of oils is a red herring. Any oil in quantity is better than no oil and if you maintain regular maintenance intervals for the bike, sooner when it sees hard service, you can mix brands and weights to your hearts content will little ill effect. But you will get better results using recommended oil.

Naturally, if you stick with one weight and brand of oil it won't take many oil changes and you will have purged your system of any trace of that evil break in oil. I think the more important fact is that you are riding and taking care of your motorcycle. God help you if you don't adjust your chain properly though! :P
:thanks:
 
Deanohh_imp said:
Get my head right? Love ya man.
I know that wasn't politically correct.But unlike Chris Harris
who loves to use the " F " bomb,it's best to cut to the chase.
Make sure another fellow Motorcylist isn't confused.
I know what I know.A lot of bikers have their preconceived notions
as to what entails a good engine or a good bike.
I remember once using a kinda cheap run down garage to
get new rubber on my Mitsuhushi " Evo ".
The place was really dirty and a mess.But the head garage guy
did his job and ordered the tires and they were there the
next morning,just like he said.I got to talking about tires and
rubber { The " Evo " is a road rally race car for the street }
The garage guy said as if in total belief ... That Rubber is Rubber.
Like there's virtually no difference between tires as to rubber.
Maybe and maybe not.There are compounds added to make
rubber stronger or softer.Tires rely more on components like
thread,ply,sidewall or bead { reinforced with steel wire and
low flexible rubber or not.}
All Oil is not the same.All Oil belief is not the same.Some guys
swear by castor oil.Some Royal Purple,some Amsoil.
Is synthetic better for a motorcycle.Not older models.
Not for break-in.Even though with today's tight tolerances,an
engine shouldn't shear off as much as like 30-40 years ago.
if someone never bothered to ask ... What is this Fungus.?
Where would pencillin be.
I have to just shrug off what I know to be Untruth.
ingobohn_imp said:
Rboe_imp said:
A couple points here. If you change the filter with each oil change the "dirty" oil is not that big of a problem.

Mixing of oils is also not that big of an issue. Oils break down over time, especially in hot air cooled engines, to their base viscosity which is the same for the 10w30 and 10w40 and 10w50 etc. So mixing of oils is a red herring. Any oil in quantity is better than no oil and if you maintain regular maintenance intervals for the bike, sooner when it sees hard service, you can mix brands and weights to your hearts content will little ill effect. But you will get better results using recommended oil.

Naturally, if you stick with one weight and brand of oil it won't take many oil changes and you will have purged your system of any trace of that evil break in oil. I think the more important fact is that you are riding and taking care of your motorcycle. God help you if you don't adjust your chain properly though! :P
:thanks:
:thanks:
Says Confucius ... eh ?
The Master said, .... ' Have no friends not equal to
yourself '.
Needs to be a Harley motto.
I'm not big on Harley types.They look down upon metrics.
The gall.Just because Willie G finally broke the cruiser
King of the Hill record,set by Honda.Around 2005.
Honda was and still is The King of Motorcycle sales.
Maybe not the Cruiser market.
Since 1959 ,Honda reigned as World's largest motorcycle
manufacturer and 2nd largest in the states.
 
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