O2 sensor eliminator ? why?

After reading this thread last week I ordered an O2 eliminator myself. It's like 22 bucks and if it improves the running without making it get 13 miles to a gallon I'm all for it, and I can always remove it and go back to where I was. Funny thing is, for some reason since I drilled my exhaust it's not as bad as it was, but yesterday I noticed that the "bad spot" is between 2200 and 4,000 rpm; it's smooth below and above that. :-/
 
I installed the O2 eliminator just before the NC rally. I always thought my CB was very smooth at low revs but it's even better now. Have not noticed any change in fuel mileage. I like it.
 
redbirds_imp said:
I installed the O2 eliminator just before the NC rally. I always thought my CB was very smooth at low revs but it's even better now. Have not noticed any change in fuel mileage. I like it.
That's good to know. How much trouble was it to install?
 
Takes all of 5 minutes to install. Just remove the right side cover, unplug the O2 sensor and replace with the bypass plug. I did take an extra minute to trace out the lead from the O2 sensor just to be sure I had the right one. The speedometer lead is lying next to it in the same plastic cover.
 
redbirds_imp said:
Takes all of 5 minutes to install. Just remove the right side cover, unplug the O2 sensor and replace with the bypass plug. I did take an extra minute to trace out the lead from the O2 sensor just to be sure I had the right one. The speedometer lead is lying next to it in the same plastic cover.
Sounds simple enough. Thanks!
 
That is fine to see if it will run better, but if you want to leave it permanently in that configuration it is a good idea to actually remove the sensor. Otherwise it can eventually foul up and be ruined if you ever wanted to reuse it again (kinda expensive part). This is a bit more work as it entails dropping the header so you can get at it, then you also need a special tool to remove it and replace with a plug.
 
I also installed the O2 sensor eliminator on my bike. The bike starts & runs great with it and it seems that it warms up quicker also. Probably due to a richer mixture in the lower rpm range from the installed 02 Oxygen Lambda Sensor Eliminator.
 
I cannot understand how leaving the O2 sensor disconnected would cause it to fail. I am under the impression that the sensor places a certain amount of resistance across it's leads according to conditions in the exhaust flow. Seems to me that the sensor will continue to operate as normal it just will not be read by the ECU. Someone enlighten me if I have this wrong as I have little understanding of these systems.
 
redbirds_imp said:
I cannot understand how leaving the O2 sensor disconnected would cause it to fail. I am under the impression that the sensor places a certain amount of resistance across it's leads according to conditions in the exhaust flow. Seems to me that the sensor will continue to operate as normal it just will not be read by the ECU. Someone enlighten me if I have this wrong as I have little understanding of these systems.
I was told by the owner of Redline Superbikes, the main supplier of the Eliminator Plugs, that the O2 Lambda Sensor should ideally be removed as it will eventually foul beyond use. That's why he provides a Cap Screw and Washer in most of his kits.

When the sensor is in circuit it is initially preheated which burns off a certain amount of carbon. It may be ruined if left in place but not left in circuit for extended periods of time.
 
I was looking at what's involved in removing the sensor yesterday and it looks to be a pain to take out. I might just leave it in and forget about it.
 
mininsx_imp said:
I was looking at what's involved in removing the sensor yesterday and it looks to be a pain to take out. I might just leave it in and forget about it.
Its not a big job, get a 17MM long socket and cut a 1/4 out with a angle grinder. This will get the sensor out without a problem. Remove the wiring and save it in case you want to put it back.

 
I put the O2 wiring plug in and took a ride a while ago. Man, what a difference! That engine runs like it should have all along; no more surging, it's just smooooth, now. :banana:
 
Well, thanks to a lot of rain this month I finally had a chance to run some gas out and check my mileage after the O2 sensor mod. 53 MPG. I'm happy. :clap:
 
CIP57_imp said:
mininsx_imp said:
I was looking at what's involved in removing the sensor yesterday and it looks to be a pain to take out. I might just leave it in and forget about it.
Its not a big job, get a 17MM long socket and cut a 1/4 out with a angle grinder. This will get the sensor out without a problem. Remove the wiring and save it in case you want to put it back.



Do you have to drop the header to get it out or can you remove it without doing so?
 
veech_imp said:
CIP57_imp said:
mininsx_imp said:
I was looking at what's involved in removing the sensor yesterday and it looks to be a pain to take out. I might just leave it in and forget about it.
Its not a big job, get a 17MM long socket and cut a 1/4 out with a angle grinder. This will get the sensor out without a problem. Remove the wiring and save it in case you want to put it back.



Do you have to drop the header to get it out or can you remove it without doing so?

I cannot see any other way to do it other than removing the header. The heat shield is welded on and in the way and there is very little room between the frame and the header. I have yet to remove my header to address this as I don't want to risk screwing up the exhaust port gaskets in the process.
 
Thanks Gumby. That is what I thought, just figured I should check with the experts. BTW, that is why I have had my O2 eliminator & plug sitting in a box for the last year. The bike runs great as it is and I haven't wanted to mess with the headers either until I had an additional reason to do so.
 
I've experienced this surging on other bikes. For myself it has either been one or more of the following: O2, TPS, or Intake Air Sensor. They generally don't emerge as check engine lights either, they're often "hidden" codes that you need something like tuner pro to reveal (or factory diagnostics). In my experience it's usually a wiring malfunction and not an issue with the sensor itself. When faulty it sends bad info resulting in the ECM trying to constantly readjust. If you bypass the faulty sensor (via an eliminator) you're only temporarily fixing the problem. As you add mileage to the engine the ecosystem will change, requiring adaptation to maintain homeostasis. Without this sensor, the ECM will not fully be able to adapt resulting a reappearance of the original symptom, that is until you replace the sensor.

Judging from the number of complaints there may be a factory flaw in one or more of these sensor systems. Could be a good idea to collect production dates, etc to locate a bad batch of sensors.
 
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