No Moon Tonight, From Summit to Sea, and More

[nhawk7504_imp]

Great story and pics as always.

 

[Cormanus]

Great story telling. Mitta Mitta (and the road in and out) was my favorite of the many wonderful sections during our ride. I could live at that little hotel forever. The food, the view, the bed, the back-roads jogging. The food!
Great to see you standing tall again, Tony!
I believe another shot at a Down-Under Rally is in order. Maybe in January this time! I have been saving up my frequent flier miles :excited:

Mmm. I’m not sure I can do January 2019, but let’s see how this year develops.

 

[Aussieflyer]

Seventeen years, or is it eighteen, I've lost count ... it's been such a very long time since touring on a motorcycle that I was almost as nervous as I was excited to be joining Cormanus, Ptero and NoRoToMo for a roll around the Victorian high country. Any pre-ride anxiety was quickly forgotted as the weather turned out perfect and so was the company of these fine gents. Being the novice tourer, that I am, the guys went all out to accommodate me given my limited experience and touring capabilities. My CB has lost a lot of its luggage carrying capacity so carrying enough gear to go camping was not an option, cabins or motels my only options. Many thanks boys for your flexibility, I owe you one.

Ptero's post and pics are tell the story beautifully, I don't have much to add. If you've got time and don't mind seeing a few maps of the route then keep reading for some stuff as seen from the inside of my visor ...

Day 1 - North Bound
Beautiful day, sunny, low 30'sC and just a light breeze, perfect for taking the windiest roads on the map that would land me somewhere near the town of Bright in Victoria's alpine region.

My buddy, Mick with the Barry Sheene tribute Suzuki, joined me for the first hour as we headed over the Kinglake Ranges into the quiet township of Yea. A coffee and toasted sandwich with a side order of tall stories about days gone by then it was time for Mick to turn around and I to continue north.

Brunch at Yea

Next stop is Mansfield where there isn't much going on, a sleepy town in the foothills of the Victorian alps with a population of around 4000. Was a thriving city back in its hey day on the major stock route and serving the local gold mining industry. For me it was just a fuel and refreshment stop after a brisk ride on the boring straight roads from Yea.

Onwards to Whitfield. Now the roads start to get little more exciting as it passes over the top of a smaller mountain, i can't recall it's name. Plenty of curves and pretty scenery to keep up the interest level whilst making my way closer to meeting up with the guys. A quick stop at the Whitfield cafe for a coffee, home made muesli slice and chat with a table of locals having afternoon tea.

Whitfield to Bright through the King Valley famous for it's wines, produce and fine foods also meant it had a bit of traffic, it was a slow pace. End of Day 1 marked by a visit to the Alpine Hotel Bright where there was a very cold beer and a comfortable seat to wait for the boys to arrive ... on reflection I had time for two beers thanks to the fast run from Yea to Mansfield.

A refreshing ale at Bright

Was a great catch up with the guys, we talked until the early hours of the morning.

Day 2 - Going around the bend
The AM
Well, if I enjoyed the roads on day 1 then the only way for me to describe day 2 is "bloody brilliant".

I had no idea where we were going and just didn't care, it was 'follow the leader' where the aim was to keep Ptero and Cormanus in sight. NoRoToMo was the responsible one keeping an eye on us all from the tail of the group - thanks mate. We rolled around a few hills going through Harrietville then over Mount Hotham on the highest coach road in Australia.

NoRoToMo was cruising up behind us taking in the magnificent scenery.

We're on top of Australia!

The road opens up into some big fast sweepers as we head down the mountain into Dinner Plain and onwards to Omeo. Stopping for a look at the ancient valley, this is where Ptero took that photo of the four helmeted amigos. A quick reconfirmation of where we're going but I didn't care as I'm doing my best impersonation of a dog being offered a joy ride - anywhere will do, let's go!

So how was this place formed?

Aha, that's how

Condition of the roads was really good, in particular the section from Ensay through Tambo Crossing on to Bruthen was just magnificent, great surface and easy to manage corners with no nasty surprises. It was just awesome to be cruising along with the boys soaking up the scenery of this beautiful valley and getting into the rthym of seemingly endless corners. From time to time when the boys knew I couldn't stuff up any of the route, i.e. no intersections to make a wrong turn at, they'd let me have a run in the front seat where the view is even better. It's about now that I kick myself for waiting 17 years to do this again, made a promise to self to do it again next summer.

The PM
Lunch at Bruthen, bid farewell to NoRoToMo then head back up the same road but this time we turn right at Omeo and head to Mitta Mitta. More absolutely stunning scenery and roads that must have been crafted by a crew of hardcore motorcyclists, the road into Mitta Mitta is black top heaven just ask InHouseBob. We're talkin' head turnin', body leanin', peg srapin', fun roads.

A great meal at the Mitta Mitta pub and some very entertaining conversation at the dinner table. Ptero and Cormanus have been touring together for years and it shows when you get them talking over a wine or two. They're a bit like two radio show DJs, they'll keep you entertained the whole night with banter and tales of previous trips.

Day 3 - About face
In the morning we shook hands and said cheerio. I see from Ptero's post that they had some excellent camping for the next two nights, I'm glad.

During the previous night there was a little rain and very strong winds which had blown a lot of tree litter all over the roads. That great road out of Mitta Mitta now had small branches, tree bark and a lot of damp leaves all over it so the pace was a bit slower but still in the fun zone. It was back along the same road toward Anglers Rest however this time I had to stop and wait for a farmer to hustle about 50 head of cattle along the highway. Not sure what his plan was as there didn't seem to be any fields for them, maybe down to the river for a swim?? Anyways, these 50 cattle had been walking on the road for at least 3 kilometers and had left what seemed like thousands of cow pads all over the road! As much as I tried to avoid each one another would splatter under my wheels and get baked to the engine crankcase. I learned that cow poop is very slippery as the bike wiggled and wobbled many times. After clearing the cow poop minefield I rounded WTF corner named by the bicycle riders that frequent these roads because as soon as you turn that corner the road seems to head vertically like a wall. The next 36 kilometers of winding, narrow, road is a pure delight as it delivers the traveler to the top of Falls Creek ski village via Mount Cope.

It's the longest continuous section of twisties that I've ever seen sign posted

Getting very cold up here - thanks Ptero for the loan of your inner gloves.

Car park at Falls Creek ski resort

From here it's all down hill except for a quick sprint over a hill into Bright.



A fuel stop at Bright then back home the way I came. Not sure how many kilometers all up, somewhere around 1400, nothing compared to the Cormanus and Ptero's epic journeys but big for me. The cafe racer did a great job, no discomfort and no hairy moments ... ready to do it all again next summer.

 

[pdedse]

What a fun trip! The White Tank CB looks fresh. I have a sister in Adelaide...one day would love to visit her and spend a good month riding a rental bike. One day...

 

[Inhouse Bob]

Your photos and words take me back. Remind me... it was you and your wife that we met at the McDonald's on the coast, correct? Sounds like you had a great ride.

 

[Cormanus]

No, Inhouse Bob. We didn’t ever manage to catch up with Aussieflyer. The guy at MacDonald’s was aussie59.

 

[Inhouse Bob]

Ah yes! I recall that now. Similar enough handle, I suppose.
I was going through my rain gear yesterday in anticipation of the next rally and found the pockets full of random receipts and assorted monies from our adventure. It all brought back fond memories. Thanks again for making it such a great time.
I mentioned to my beloved that you would be in the British Isles at the same time as our trip to Scotland and didn't that sound like a good time to go riding... she gave me the stink-eye :angel:

 

[Stichill]

Terrific riding, jovial fellowship, and road trip camaraderie! I love this picture, surely a rarity in these modern times:

 

[noroomtomove]

Some extra pictures.



Loading up the bike.



Cuppa at the Cave.



Cuppa at Cooma



Eclipse of the Moon



The morning after the eclipse.

Thanks to Cormanus, Petrodactyl and Aussieflyer.

 

[Cormanus]

Ah yes! I recall that now. Similar enough handle, I suppose.
I was going through my rain gear yesterday in anticipation of the next rally and found the pockets full of random receipts and assorted monies from our adventure. It all brought back fond memories. Thanks again for making it such a great time.
I mentioned to my beloved that you would be in the British Isles at the same time as our trip to Scotland and didn't that sound like a good time to go riding... she gave me the stink-eye :angel:

Mmmm ... you may be safe ... the UK contingent may come here this year in which case I'll stay home.

 

[Cormanus]

Pterodactyl started this report. Norromtomove and AussieFlyer have added to it. Just to round it out, briefly, here are the bits of the ride I did on my own.

Day 1: Brisbane to Wauchope

Link to Map

Crossing the border from Queensland to New South Wales in the summertime means putting your clock forward an hour. Queensland, with good reason, declines to participate in the daylight saving adopted by other Australian states.

On Australia Day (January 26) I was in Grafton, NSW with the clock on the bike saying my normal lunch time was over due, but not yet feeling hungry enough to stop. I was also in the process of deciding to abandon the day’s plan to ride up the range to Glen Innes. I’d been out of sorts all day and I just didn’t feel like it, even though I’d originally been keen to get up on the range. It was very hot on the flat in the coastal hinterland and I hoped height would bring cooler air. But it was increasingly overcast and a check of the weather app on my phone showed rain falling all over the alternative route I was pondering.

The bike was (relatively) clean, I was hot and I didn’t want to have to do battle with my wet weather gear (which would just make things even hotter). To make matters more complicated, either alternative ride up the [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Dividing_Range]Great Dividing Range would mean a longer wait for food than I wanted.

On a whim I decided to go to Nana Glen, nearer the coast, where there had been a motorcycle friendly café the last time I passed through. While that would mean the slab after lunch and an overnight stay near the coast, the consolation prize was a ride up the Oxley Highway the following morning.

Australia Day’s a public holiday, and when I got to Nana Glen the café was firmly closed. I pushed on to Coramba where I found food but no fuel. That would once have worried me, but application of [URL=https://cb1100forum.net/threads/68075/]Noroomtomove’s First Law of Motion and Fuel Consumption reassured me I’d be fine to get to Coffs Harbour.

Stopped for lunch at Coramba


An afternoon milestone just south of Coffs Harbour

Later in the day, after an unremarkable trip down the highway, very hot but at least dry, I pulled into Wauchope where I found a room at the Hastings Hotel. It was comfortable and clean, but it wasn’t until I lay down on the bed that I finally found the power point.


Day 2: Wauchope to Scone

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uURWtv5vLWyqZuQqMM3fgS_Wyvp8CoNj&usp=sharing]Link to Map

The section of the Oxley Highway that runs from Wauchope to Walcha is rated by many as the best motorcycle road in Australia. I’m not sure I agree, but it’s still a fabulous ride. As you pass the Wauchope town boundary you are immediately into a delightfully winding road that passes through the bush until it emerges onto Long Flat. Long Flat is more undulating than flat, but it’s open farm land and smooth, fast road.

Then you start to climb and there is a sign warning you of 44 kms of winding road. That’s 8 kms more than the sign photographed by AussieFlyer (see[url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12353&pid=200191#pid200191]here, but I’ve no photographic evidence. This time. The speed limit drops to 80 kph and you are into the bush, climbing the Great Dividing Range. The road surface is excellent, the corners great and the challenge for a medium grade rider like me is to stay as near to 80 kph as you can all the way to Gingers Creek.

Before we get to Gingers Creek, though, a word on the speed limit. Traffic authorities in Australia are convinced the only way to reduce the road toll is to reduce the speed limits. While they may be right, I’m not completely sure how much evidence there is that it’s actually working. The decision to reduce the speed limit on 44 kms of the Oxley Highway that winds up the mountain side has been hotly contested and the subject of great criticism by many a motor cyclist and local. I don’t know what to think. While I’m not sure I can see the need for it—roads dictate the speed at which intelligent people will drive or ride them—it’s hard for me to sustain a much higher speed for much of the road. I’m also not sure I want to be confronted by people blasting out of a corner at much higher speed.

The riders are unhappy and, I’m sure, certain amongst them will continue to blast up the road at the best speed they can manage, scaring the bejasus out of the rest of us for the time they retain their licence. And, I must confess, above Gingers Creek the road starts to open up a bit and the 80 kph speed limit feels a little restrictive, even to me.

Gingers Creek is the place where you stop for a cup of coffee and, this day anyway, breakfast. You can theoretically buy fuel there, but the supply is not guaranteed so it’s wise not to count on it. I had the place pretty much to myself and enjoyed the peace, the birds and a plate of eggs and bacon before moving on.

Alone at Gingers Creek


Breakfast



Just up the road a tree had fallen blocking half the road. There was no phone reception so I took a photo with my phone to get a GPS fix on the place then kept riding till reception returned when I pulled over and rang the traffic authority to tell them. They already knew, but I still had a virtuous feeling from making the effort.

That tree

From the end of the 44 km stretch, the road straightens and the speed limit is lifted to 100 kph then 110 kph for the run across the plain to Walcha. I refuelled and then spent an hour or more trying to find a clip for the strap that holds my bag onto the bike that I’d broken when I got fuel. I found one at a saddlery run by a bloke who had an old 650 4-cylinder Kawasaki. He’d been out for a ride when I first called which was why I had to wait around.

Why I did this, I can’t explain. I had a perfectly adequate alternative. I suppose there’s some sort of challenge in there that I can’t resist.

Parked for Coffee at the Royal Hotel in Walcha. I got away with it.

Luckily, I think, I recalled in the nick of time that Australia’s premier country music festival was on in Tamworth. I’d been planning to ride there on my way to Dungowan and Nundle—a road listed as one of the top 10 in NSW. The trip down Thunderbolts Way to the turn off to Dungowan is a good ride anyway, and the ride from that turn off to Dungown through the Port Stevens Cutting is also great.

The road from Dungowan to Nundle was a pleasant ride, but I was down off the mountain and it was getting very hot when I stopped for lunch.

Chaffey Dam on the way to Nundle. It looked and felt very dry.

After lunch the weather became more and more foreboding and when I stopped for fuel in Scone, the weather radar showed a storm closing in and I decided to stay dry.

Hydrating while deciding whether or not to run the gamut of the rain

I put up at the recently renovated Thoroughbred Hotel to escape a drenching. It fizzed before it got there and very little rain fell, but I was tired and glad to be off the bike.

Lamb cutlets at the Thoroughbred Hotel, Scone

I fell asleep before the end of the women’s final at the Australian Open. If I ever found out who won, I’ve since forgotten.
Day 3: Scone to Sydney

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Uvtl_pxXtwUF7pXCqJe339cRHykYdL0l&usp=sharing]Link to Map

Leaving Scone, I made my way through Broke and the road to Wollombi on the grounds that it would get me to Sydney faster than the Putty Road. It’s also a great ride that I’d done most recently on the way to the MotoGP in 2017. It’s the home of Lemming Corner about which much has been written in the past.

A coffee stop at Jerry’s Gourmet Kitchen & Café at Kulnura. A favourite weekend biker stop


A milestone on the way into Sydney

I was in Sydney for lunch with my son and his wife and spent a most agreeable afternoon and evening with them.

Day 4: Sydney

Perhaps the most taxing riding day of all: about 6 kms across Sydney to Chez Pterodactyl where I passed another pleasant afternoon and evening.

Days 5 – 12
Pterodactyl and Aussieflyer have covered the events of the days that followed earlier in this thread, while noroomtomove has added photos. For those interested, here are the maps of each day’s ride and a photo or two just for fun.

Day 5: Sydney to Braidwood

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uD-z-HOzt3VXwyA-dCqspXvskUXoN_zR&usp=sharing]




These are for Inhouse Bob. It wasn’t like this when we were here together




Pterodactyl on the Seacliff Bridge at Wollongong

Day 6: Braidwood to Khancoban

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pDJUV32S9hNhcG-XICv_-fq69ZM7POGu&usp=sharing]Link to Map


Pterodactyl and noroomtomove at Charlotte Pass. At 1,835 metres, the highest point in Australia you can reach by road


Two fine specimens and Cormanus at the Charlotte Pass lookout

Day 7: Khancoban to Bright

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=17DWQSmgbRUm4nLvTtRUCWQ84rdfYvFcc&usp=sharing]Link to map


Pterodactyl performs on the Bogong High Plains Road


Meeting Aussieflyer at the Bright pub. Those who remember The Great Race will note the connection between Pterodactyl’s bike and The Great Leslie
Day 8: Bright to Bruthen to Mitta Mitta

See Aussieflyer’s report [url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12353&pid=200191#pid200191]here for the maps of Day 8. I’ll say only that I’ve never ridden a motorcycle so fast for so long as I did chasing Pterodactyl and Aussieflyer up the Omeo Highway! I might even have scraped a peg or two.

At breakfast in Bright


Aussieflyer heads to Bruthen on a rare straight stretch of the Omeo Highway






A rest stop at Anglers Rest on the Omeo Highway. The serious riders compare notes








Some Omeo Highway scenes


Dinner at the Mitta pub
Day 9: Mitta Mitta to Leather Barrel Creek

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HtUgD-lsywaPvKjgPwPuktdBfKPT1DJe&usp=sharing]Link to map


Tumut Dam in the Snowy Mountains




Alpine riding


Pristine camp site at Leather Barrel Creek



Day 10: Leather Barrel to Gillards Beach

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_MmPsP-YGYG9Z2MLkdV4Ym_UzGW46Z6z&usp=sharing]Link to Map

Our final stop before Gillards Beach was the seaside town of Tathra where we refuelled and bought the odd supply for the camp. We were forced to buy liquid supplies at the local club as the bottle shop had burned down not long before. Tragically, less than two months later in mid-March 2018, a major bushfire tore through the town. 65 houses and 35 caravans and cabins were destroyed, with another 48 houses damaged.


Pterodactyl blitzes the mountain






On the way from Leather Barrel Creek to Gillards Beach





Some of the locals at Gillards Beach


The beach itself was a bit crowded

Day 11: Gillards Beach to Abercrombie River

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b9AdlPm_5RnD9n3W5UrcRbKE75mh1_A5&usp=sharing]Link to map


The camp at Abercrombie River

Day 12: Abercrombie River to Gloucester

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=19B5j9vfzbfekjI4bwyypvyXlnMkz1vCp&usp=sharing]Link to map




We pretty much had the place to ourselves, although it was a bit of a ride to the shower block

Day 13: Gloucester to Ebor

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=12sMr97UaCjDnQDTfkHyFHuNzBEzKe1SG&usp=sharing]Link to map

After a late breakfast, Pterodactyl headed south. I’d decided to take a new route east (rather than north) from Gloucester which would take me back to the coast, up the slab and give me another go at the 44 kms of bends on the Oxley.

From Gloucester to Taree was a pretty ride through the hills along The Buckett’s Way. I contemplated going via Nabiac where lurks the [url=http://nationalmotorcyclemuseum.com.au/]National Motorcycle Museum of Australia, but abandoned the plan on the basis that I wanted to make a reasonable distance that day and it would involve a detour not to mention time in the museum.

From Taree to just after Herons Creek was freeway. Not unattractive but not interesting riding. At Herons Creek I turned off onto a much more interesting back road that took me to Wauchope and back on to the Oxley Highway. In places it’s beauty and motorcycling appeal were slightly offset by the poor road surface. But then, I suspect all road repair money in this shire is probably spent on the Oxley.

Another wonderful ride up the Oxley to Gingers Creek.

Lunch at Gingers Creek

Then I pushed on to Armidale where I stopped at the local Honda dealer to consult a mechanic about what appeared to be a slight leak in the master cylinder for the front brakes. He looked, tightened something, said that if the level dropped further I should replace the diaphragm and suggested I keep an eye on it.

I’d planned to stop at Armidale, but it was early and a pleasant evening, so I decided to head for Dorrigo. I had a great ride across the plateau on a road made for fast cruising. As I rode into the tiny town of Ebor I noticed a motel I must have seen a dozen times before but never noted. I realised I was tired and decided to see whether there was a room. There was and I had a pleasant enough evening doing my bit for climate change.


Day 14: Ebor to Brisbane

[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GPRsOl8QuQ0ZbDSOrpwVjQbKJgPazHyh&usp=sharing]Link to map

It was a glorious, but chilly, morning. There was frost on the bike. I rode the short distance to the Ebor Falls for a look. There wasn’t much water, but it was very pretty and I was pleased I took the time for a look.

Ebor Falls

As always the Armidale Road to Grafton was a great ride. It was appreciably hotter in Grafton than on the range and stayed that way all the way home. The road is pretty enough, but a bit light on for really enjoyable bits of road, with the exception of the stretch between Wiangaree and Rathdowney, which is a cracker of a road. Buoyed by the enjoyment of that ride, I decided to put Noroomtomove’s First Law of Motion and Fuel Consumption to a serious test. When I reached Beaudesert, I was still going strong after 254 kms (around 160 miles) and had another 2 litres in the tank. As a footnote, I feel inadequate beside noroomtomove. At one stage on this trip I had a text from noroomtomove saying he’d travelled 302 kilometres on a tank and was still going. There’s no way I could get that sort of economy.

Crossing the border

When I got home, I’d ridden 5,386 kilometres, used 270 litres of petrol at a cost of AU$382 and averaged 20.25 kilometres/litre. Even better than that, I’d seen little more than a couple of drops of rain and had a great couple of weeks in the saddle. What could be better?

Thanks Pterodactyl, Noroomtomove and Aussieflye for your company. It adds greatly to my riding pleasure to spend time with these CB owners en route to exotic places.

 

[Aussieflyer]

So that's how it went before and after joining you guys ... huge distances by a couple of hard core tourers, very nice. Thanks again mate, I'm looking forward to the next opportunity to catch up.

 

[pdedse]

Great photos and a nice write up. I've got a sister who has lived in Adelaide for years and I still haven't made the trip yet. I'd love to have 6 months and bike to explore a bit. Thanks for taking the time to show us your corner of the world!

 

[Cormanus]

pdedse, time for a visit, methinks. Plenty of bike rental places. Some of us may even come to meet you somewhere.

 

[Inhouse Bob]

pdedse, time for a visit, methinks. Plenty of bike rental places. Some of us may even come to meet you somewhere.

Highly recommend that you take them up on it! Great guys, great country.

 

[curlyjoe]

Excellent pics and prose guys. Thanks for sharing!