new battery won't crank

J

jimgl3_imp

Been there
Thread starter
my battery was dying. got to the point i was having to bump start it. but no problems doing so. a little push, bump, and cranked right up. so finally i get my new battery. put it in. hit the starter and it just spins. no fire at all. i am stumped. does it have a key chip that has to be reset? 2014 standard. help please!

and yes the red button in on "run" so don't go there ok? just sayin...
 
Hi jimgl3, when you state; it just spins, i wonder if the polarity is correct and the starter spins in reverse and just moves the " starter clutch " in the opposite direction.

Positive red etc, sounds silly, but......
 
Thread starter
no, that makes good sense. it will only go in there one way, but i didn't think to look to see if the poles are reversed from the old battery. it's the same YTZ14S, so it should be the same, but i'll sure go look. thanks!

polarity is correct. thank you though. it was a good idea.
 
If you have access to a Battery Tender (or even a low-amperage 12V charger), you may want to connect it to the battery to bring it up. It's possible your battery, even though it's new, needs a charge.
 
That is good news, Jim, i have no idea what a reverse polarity would do to electronics, thanks for the update.

Longranger's suggestion is a valid one, so from a distance;

when key is switched on and e-stop is in run;

1 fuel pump cycles normally.
2 fuel level indicator shows enough in the tank.
3 instruments initialise by sweeping full scale and back.
4 sidestand is not out and engine is in neutral.
5 clutch switch is functioning normal.
6 hiss light is blinking when ignition is switched off.
7 we may need a better description, like; headlight is on and switches off on engine start, engine cranks at normal speed and rpm indicator shows engine rotation.

no special chip has to be reset and lots of people change batteries with no adverse effects, but it may benefit from another negative battery disconnect, ( safest ) operate the front brake lever to discharge any energy left in the engine control module for 30 sec's and re- connect the negative lead.

after all that it gets complicated.

max
 
What is battery voltage:
1. key off?
2. key on?
3. while cranking/attempting to crank?


A. "Just spins" indicates that the starter motor is spinning, correct?

B. "No fire" indicates that the engine does not turn over or that the spark plugs do not fire?

If the starter motor turns, engagement to the motor is mechanical - not a solenoid activated bendix type engagement. A one-way bearing (overrunning clutch) is used.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2014-honda-cb1100/o/m155474#sch847996

If that one-way bearing fails, it would not be related to a battery exchange.
 
I have received new batteries that were not up to full charge so do check voltage at startup. You say the starter is spinning. Are you saying that it is spinning without actually turning the motor over?
No hiss system on US CB's.
 
Thread starter
ok, it started! battery was full tilt. spinning the motor but no fire from plugs or whatever. now, i know it's not carburetors, it's fuel injection, but for jollies I twisted the throttle wide open and the darn thing fired right up. makes no sense to me. I admit i'm completely ignorant about fuel injection. I cut my teeth on carbs.
 
OK, so the starter motor was turning over the engine, leaving fuel or spark as a likely issue.
Had it not started up, pulling a plug, checking for spark and seeing if it was wet with fuel would have been the next likely step.

With spark and wet would indicate flooding.

With spark and dry may indicate insufficient fuel.
 
there have been recent instances as well, (apparently not in this case) where the red switch was very touchy and would fire when wiggled or quit when wiggled. I think Flynrider was one that had that issue. Someone was working on a side of the road work around, but i never heard if they were successful or not.
 
On my 2014, if the run/stop is not in run position, the headlight goes out, but the starter will not operate.

Th w/bl wire from fuse C feeds the run/stop (and powers the BAS), which feeds the bl wire to (a) start button and (b) engine relay. The coil in the engine relay completes its circuit to ground via the r/o wire to the bank angle sensor.
 
Thread starter
yeah, mine too. run stop button also cycles the ecu start program, so pretty sure you won't have that problem on a 2014. my next step was going to be starter fluid. I always try that before I start pulling plugs and such. I just didn't think the throttle had any part in cranking with fuel injection. I had tried cycling the ecu program several times to shoot more fuel in there, and that may be what actually did it. I just really lack the understanding of fuel injection starting to know what did it. oh, I also put duct tape over the air intake of the air box like a make shift "choke", so that too may have helped.
 
It may have been a fuel issue, but checking a plug is quick and easy.
1 and 4 are quite accessible with a 14 mm (9/16") deep socket.
Put the plug back in the boot, ground the prong and hit the start button.
If you have a strong spark, then you know it is a fuel issue (assuming piston & rings are intact and valves close).

Based upon your previous comments, I am sure that you knew that, but figured I would mention it for the possible benefit of others.

Probably never happen again, but my guess was too much fuel and that opening the throttle allowed more air to flow.

The throttle body is mechanically opened by the throttle cable, excluding operation of IACV for idle.

The timing of the injector pulse and duration is controlled by the ECM, based upon sensor input.
 
The ferret_imp said:
there have been recent instances as well, (apparently not in this case) where the red switch was very touchy and would fire when wiggled or quit when wiggled. I think Flynrider was one that had that issue. Someone was working on a side of the road work around, but i never heard if they were successful or not.
Click to expand...
I had that issue on the side of the road in backwoods Utah.

If the problem is in the kill switch there are some telltale signs when the key is turned on :

1. Fuel pump doesn't cycle
2. Check engine light doesn't cycle.
3. Oil temp idiot light does not go off.
4. Starter won't spin.
I have never had a problem like this when swapping batteries.

Another possibility is that the Throttle Position Sensor was somehow involved. Opening the throttle to the stop and releasing recalibrates the TPS to the ECU. I'm wondering if the battery power was off long enough for the ECU to lose track of the TPS. Just a wild guess.
 
jimgl3_imp said:
ok, it started! battery was full tilt. spinning the motor but no fire from plugs or whatever. now, i know it's not carburetors, it's fuel injection, but for jollies I twisted the throttle wide open and the darn thing fired right up. makes no sense to me. I admit i'm completely ignorant about fuel injection. I cut my teeth on carbs.
Click to expand...
I had this same problem on a EFI Ford F-150 P/U. The starter was turning the motor but no start. The problem was the throttle position sensor malfunctioning. By holding the throttle wide open, the TPS is over ridden and the motor started. The truck started every time after this but I had the TPS replaced anyway. Problem never occured again.
 
redbirds_imp said:
jimgl3_imp said:
ok, it started! battery was full tilt. spinning the motor but no fire from plugs or whatever. now, i know it's not carburetors, it's fuel injection, but for jollies I twisted the throttle wide open and the darn thing fired right up. makes no sense to me. I admit i'm completely ignorant about fuel injection. I cut my teeth on carbs.
Click to expand...
I had this same problem on a EFI Ford F-150 P/U. The starter was turning the motor but no start. The problem was the throttle position sensor malfunctioning. By holding the throttle wide open, the TPS is over ridden and the motor started. The truck started every time after this but I had the TPS replaced anyway. Problem never occured again.
Click to expand...
May have been TPS or poor connection to it.
May be good to unplug TPS, clean connector contacts and reconnect.
 
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