K&N Oil Filters BEWARE!!!

Glad you're safe and sound. FWIW, some time ago I watched a video on Youtube where some guy did a comparison of commercially available oil filters by slicing them open to expose the guts of each, and the K&N was the worst of the bunch. It had a flimsy body, the mount was inferior, and the element was the worst of the bunch, just a bit of poorly constructed paper.
davidsargee_imp said:
I generally do not post anything regarding oil or filters, but what I am about to tell you is something you all need to know. I am simply going to relate what happened to me yesterday on a busy freeway in between Dallas and Fort Worth TX.

I have a little over 30k miles on my CB1100, I have changed oil and filters exactly as the book says, so there have been several changes. On two occasions, I used the K&N 204 oil filter, they had a reputable name and I liked the bolt on the end that allows you to tighten or loosen it with an open end wrench.

The first time I used a K&N oil filter, I developed a slow leak near the end of the 3000 miles, I changed the oil and filter, this time with an OEM filter, and the leak was gone. I simply figured that maybe the o-ring was faulty or something like that and I never thought about it again. I used a K&N filter for my last oil change, it was on a Sunday and the dealer was closed, so I bought the filter at O'Reilleys, I buy the oil there as well. Recently I noticed that I smelled burning oil from time to time, but I did not find any leaks. The other day I was riding on wet roads and the rear wheel spun on left turns several times, this was unusual, the tire still has a lot of tread, and the spinning was sort of sudden.

Yesterday, I was travelling down what we call the Airport Freeway, a very wide and very busy freeway, at 75-80 mph. I noticed smoke in the rear-view mirror, at first I wasn't sure where it was coming from, then I realized it was coming from my bike! I was smoking like a wounded fighter plane on it's way down, I immediately checked the lane to the right, it was clear and I made my way across three lanes to an exit, when I got to the exit my rear wheel was spinning any time I used the throttle, I shut the engine off and coasted down the exit ramp and service road to a parking lot. I did not have enough momentum to enter the parking lot so I was forced to start the engine to get in, to my relief, the engine started right up and I got into the parking lot, I killed it again and coasted into a slot at the edge of the lot.

When I put the bike on it's side-stand and inspected it, I was astonished, oil was pouring to the ground, the front of the engine was covered in oil, the rear wheel was covered in oil, and there was a heavy trail of oil leading to the service road and beyond. I had nearly lost all of the oil in the engine, I am praying that I do not have catastrophic engine damage, I shut the engine down as soon as I could, I'll know tomorrow I guess.

My first thought was that either the oil cooler or one of the lines leading to it had failed, the only logical explanation I knew of for oil to cover the front of the engine like it did, plus the sheer volume of oil suggested it was a defect or failure of some sort. I have been dreading the cost of replacing any of these parts, the oil cooler is $300, and each line is $125. I very carefully inspected the lines and cooler as best I could in that parking lot, everything seemed tight and I could not find any apparent defects or abnormalities in the lines. I was scratching my head about this all day.

I was thinking about this at one point, when I thought about the oil filter as a possible source for the oil, I didn't think to look at it closely, and I didn't think oil could leak out of there at such a rate that it covers the front of the engine. I did not but much stock in the idea that it was the oil filter, but I had the other problem with a K&N. I did an internet search for problems with K&N filters, and to my surprise, there are scores of accounts of problems motorcyclists and car drivers alike have had with K&N filters. I even found 3 separate accounts of riders having the exact same experience that I had. One guy on a VFR forum describes the exact same experience, he posted photos, and they showed the rear wheel covered in oil as mine was, and the trail of oil behind the motorcycle. His VFR has a fairing so you could not see the front, but I bet it was just like mine as well. He posted a picture of the oil filter and you could see how the part with the bolt head had separated from the housing.

I will have the bike home tomorrow, then I will change oil and filter and look more closely for any damage to the oil lines and cooler. But after reading the accounts of others, I'm pretty certain that I will find that the oil filter failed. I will follow up with pics when I finish tomorrow. I have posted some pics from yesterday that show the oil puddle under the bike after I stopped. I should have taken a pic of the rear wheel and the oil trail, but I had stuff on my mind.


I always thought of K&N as a quality product, but I have had a problem each time I have used one. If you do a google search for "problems with K&N oil filters", you will see that I am not alone, far from it. If you use them, watch closely for leaks, mine could have killed me and ruined my engine on a busy freeway.

Cheers





[url=http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/dsargee/media/20160928_140646_zpspdppeyuf.jpg.html]

Just noticed you're from North Richland Hills, TX. My son lives there, and we are planning on moving to TX in the not too distant future.
 
It is because they do not subscribe to fine Forums such as this one. :D

- - -

Hmm, this dude,

<-- Bazbro's link

is from Toronto, Ontario. :-/
 
My son uses K&N filters. He likes the nut. I cannot convince him that they are no good. Believe me I' ve tried. He's 41 and decides for himself. I hope he doesn't learn the hard way.
 
We keep hearing these horror stories. I'm at a loss why folks continue to bother using these products. I guess K&N's marketing department is really good!
 
That nut, was an ingenious bit of design. People just love it. Even after hearing about failures, they still love it.
 
Let's face it, it's subliminal. With the nut it makes it look like a certain part of the anatomy and that with where the filter is located?

I rest my case. :P
 
I confess, I just dont understand the rationale for using anything but OEM oil and air filters. While oil is universally rated and held to specific standards that allow us to use different brands, Dyno or Full Syn, according to our own personal preferences, I am not aware of equally universal standards that apply to oil and air filters.

I have always used OEM oil and air filters exclusively. The Honda engineers that designed the engine called for a specific Honda part so that is what I am going to use, particularly if the engine is under warranty. I suppose a case could be made for using aftermarket air and oil filters after the factory warranty on the engine has expired, but why, and for what perceived advantage? To save a few bucks per filter for the maintenance of an expensive engine? For me the answer is no thanks. Is any brand oil or air filter going to do the job better than OEM, I doubt it.

Much ado has been made of the "nut" feature on the end of the infamous K&N filter. I suppose there might be a benefit to this feature in an application where the filter was so hard to get at with other tools that it made sense to use, but I cant think of any such situations at the moment. Thankfully the oil filters on our CBs are a piece of cake to get to with a cup wrench, filter pliers, or if all else fails the old mechanics trick of driving a rod or Phillips screw driver through the filter to use as leverage to twist/break loose/ and un screw for removal. Maybe the K&N "nut" feature is supposed to save the expense of buying a cup wrench or filter pliers, pre supposing that most people will already have the right size socket, box or open end wrench? If that is the case I would fall back on the old adage "use the right tool for the job", and buy the right tool. Unless the cost of the right tool is prohibitive, it makes more sense to me to use the right tool than substituting a modified part. Given that cup wrenches and filter pliers are very inexpensive, and are a worthwhile addition to any tool box, I dont see any inherent K&N advantage there either.

This is another "to each his own" topic, and this is just my two cents for what it is worth.
 
2017EX_imp said:
I confess, I just dont understand the rationale for using anything but OEM oil and air filters. While oil is universally rated and held to specific standards that allow us to use different brands, Dyno or Full Syn, according to our own personal preferences, I am not aware of equally universal standards that apply to oil and air filters.

I have always used OEM oil and air filters exclusively. The Honda engineers that designed the engine called for a specific Honda part so that is what I am going to use, particularly if the engine is under warranty. I suppose a case could be made for using aftermarket air and oil filters after the factory warranty on the engine has expired, but why, and for what perceived advantage? To save a few bucks per filter for the maintenance of an expensive engine? For me the answer is no thanks. Is any brand oil or air filter going to do the job better than OEM, I doubt it.

Much ado has been made of the "nut" feature on the end of the infamous K&N filter. I suppose there might be a benefit to this feature in an application where the filter was so hard to get at with other tools that it made sense to use, but I cant think of any such situations at the moment. Thankfully the oil filters on our CBs are a piece of cake to get to with a cup wrench, filter pliers, or if all else fails the old mechanics trick of driving a rod or Phillips screw driver through the filter to use as leverage to twist/break loose/ and un screw for removal. Maybe the K&N "nut" feature is supposed to save the expense of buying a cup wrench or filter pliers, pre supposing that most people will already have the right size socket, box or open end wrench? If that is the case I would fall back on the old adage "use the right tool for the job", and buy the right tool. Unless the cost of the right tool is prohibitive, it makes more sense to me to use the right tool than substituting a modified part. Given that cup wrenches and filter pliers are very inexpensive, and are a worthwhile addition to any tool box, I dont see any inherent K&N advantage there either.

This is another "to each his own" topic, and this is just my two cents for what it is worth.
To add: Sadly the "hex appendage" that doesn't even reliably function without some possible failure, adds more unnecessary metal to the landfill.
 
2017EX_imp said:
I confess, I just dont understand the rationale for using anything but OEM oil and air filters. While oil is universally rated and held to specific standards that allow us to use different brands, Dyno or Full Syn, according to our own personal preferences, I am not aware of equally universal standards that apply to oil and air filters.

I have always used OEM oil and air filters exclusively. The Honda engineers that designed the engine called for a specific Honda part so that is what I am going to use, particularly if the engine is under warranty. I suppose a case could be made for using aftermarket air and oil filters after the factory warranty on the engine has expired, but why, and for what perceived advantage? To save a few bucks per filter for the maintenance of an expensive engine? For me the answer is no thanks. Is any brand oil or air filter going to do the job better than OEM, I doubt it.

Much ado has been made of the "nut" feature on the end of the infamous K&N filter. I suppose there might be a benefit to this feature in an application where the filter was so hard to get at with other tools that it made sense to use, but I cant think of any such situations at the moment. Thankfully the oil filters on our CBs are a piece of cake to get to with a cup wrench, filter pliers, or if all else fails the old mechanics trick of driving a rod or Phillips screw driver through the filter to use as leverage to twist/break loose/ and un screw for removal. Maybe the K&N "nut" feature is supposed to save the expense of buying a cup wrench or filter pliers, pre supposing that most people will already have the right size socket, box or open end wrench? If that is the case I would fall back on the old adage "use the right tool for the job", and buy the right tool. Unless the cost of the right tool is prohibitive, it makes more sense to me to use the right tool than substituting a modified part. Given that cup wrenches and filter pliers are very inexpensive, and are a worthwhile addition to any tool box, I dont see any inherent K&N advantage there either.

This is another "to each his own" topic, and this is just my two cents for what it is worth.
Just for the heck of it I am going to quote the "oil expert" over on the FJR forum

""Synthetic" is not a performance specification. Its a manufacturing technique and no assurance of quality or superiority. Just as forging, billet, and cast are manufacturing techniques for aluminum components and none are inherently always superior no matter what over another.

A superior motor oil can be made using synthetic methods but the use of synthetic methods is no assurance of a superior motor oil.

There are no respectable industry performance certifications which specify or require "synthetic." There are many such certifications for which nothing but a synthetically manufactured motor oil passed, but that is far from saying any or all synthetic motor oils are capable.

You are biting the marketing line, hook, line, and sinker. Synthetic motor oil is primarily designed to move cash from your pocket and put it into the manufacturer's pocket. Marketing wants you to accept that synthetic is always inherently The Best And Worth Every Penny, all the while not doing anything to back their assertion.

Synthetic, synthetic, synthetic, synthetic .... say it often enough in the hopes consumers will believe it and demand "synthetic" for no other reason than they "heard its best!"

As I've already said, a superior motor oil can be made using synthetic processes but synthetic processes do not ensure a superior product. The designer not only has to know what constitutes a superior product but has to be willing to make a superior product. ......with oils, it all matters as to what one is trying to make. The problem is that marketing strives to hide this from us.

Most any oil bearing a modern industry standards certification will be an excellent oil. SAE/API, JASO, ILSAC, ACEA, etc."

Now I have no idea if this guy know of which he speaks, but he repeats this often (you should hear his speech about tires "cupping" lol).

I use Honda GN4 dino and oe filter in my CB and Yamalube and oe filter in my FJR. Good enough for Honda and Yamaha to recommend them, good enough for me. I ride a lot of miles, nearly 1/4 million just since 2006 when I started keeping track and 41 years of nearly daily riding prior to that which I didn't log. No issues yet using the oil and filters recommended by the manufacturer that made the motorcycle.
 
If OE oil filters were, say $100 and aftermarket ones $10, I could see the case for buying the cheaper ones and taking a chance, but what the heck is the price difference? It's nothing - it's just not worth it.
 
Bazbro_imp said:
If OE oil filters were, say $100 and aftermarket ones $10, I could see the case for buying the cheaper ones and taking a chance, but what the heck is the price difference? It's nothing - it's just not worth it.
EXACTLY!
 
2017EX_imp said:
Bazbro_imp said:
If OE oil filters were, say $100 and aftermarket ones $10, I could see the case for buying the cheaper ones and taking a chance, but what the heck is the price difference? It's nothing - it's just not worth it.
EXACTLY!
EXACTLY!
^^^ +1
 
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