Installed Battery Tender quick disconnect /w usb - does your CB make this noise?

[LordWasr_imp]

Not sure if this is normal? I installed a battery tender quick disconnect /w usb charger . I connected it directly to the battery . Tested the USB with my iPhone cable and it charges up but noticed a ticking noise when I turn the bike on before hitting the ignition button. I dont remember ever hearing it prior to installing but then again, I may be freakin myself out lol.

My bad if i'm just over thinking things .

Also, will the USB drain my battery if I dont have the iPhone cable plugged in? or should I disconnect the USB portion when I'm not using it?

<-- short 3 second video. I put the key in and turn it to the On positon where all the lights show up and you can here the tick. It's not anywhere near the seat/battery area more towards the front/engine area?

this is how I connected the battery tender cables. So the "o ring" parts art on the bottom then the actual battery "+ , - " metal parts sit on top and then the screws . I accidently made a small spark too lol.. I hope that doesnt mess anything up. I checked the turn signals and stuff and everything seemed okay.



Sorry if this is in the wrong section & thanks in advance - again lol.

 

[Cormanus]

Mmmm ... not sure what the ticking is. I'll go downstairs and check mine later.

I also shortened the title of your thread so people responding to you won't get an error. There's a limit of 83 characters (I think) and, if you get too near it, the automatic insertion of the "Re:" will cause an error.

 

[LordWasr_imp]

Hi Cormanus,

Got it, I'll remember to limit the subject lol my bad & also thanks , looking to hear from ya. No rush , it's 11PM here so I'm going to bed right now and will check the thread before I ride off to work tomorrow AM. This is the first bike that I'm actually trying to learn on how to do things myself -_- so please excuse the noob questions haha.

Thanks!

Mmmm ... not sure what the ticking is. I'll go downstairs and check mine later.

I also shortened the title of your thread so people responding to you won't get an error. There's a limit of 83 characters (I think) and, if you get too near it, the automatic insertion of the "Re:" will cause an error.

 

[max]

Hi mate, three things;

1 when working on electrics on the bike always disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal first, ( that is safe because the negative is already connected to the frame so it does not matter if you touch the frame with the tool,) not the red positive, and connect the negative last after the job is finished, that way you never produce expensive sparks.
if the negative terminal is safely disconnected you can touch any connection on the bike and nothing can happen, if you were to disconnect the positive with the negative connected you run a high risk of touching a part of the frame and causing a short circuit.

2 nothing must be connected between the battery poles and the surfaces of the starter cables, no washers or anything, very high currents flow between the battery terminals and the cables.
any additional connections must be made directly under the bolt heads of the terminals which only provide mechanical force to clamp the contact surfaces together ( and the stainless screws are poor electrical conductors for high currents ).
I have seen steel washers installed in between terminals that glowed orange very quickly, it is called spot-welding.

3 if you disconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key on is the click still there? ( i did watch the video)

It took me a while to understand why it is necessary to disconnect negative instead of positive but i got it in the end.
Like the work you do on the bike and have the enjoyment out of it, looks very tidy with the fuse in line; max

 

[Cormanus]

LordWasr, I can hear two sounds when I turn the key. the first is what I've always assumed is the fuel pump which is the longer, louder more consistent sound. However, I also heard the ticking sound on your video which is shorter in duration. I have no idea what it is.

 

[Razor]

Curious little sound?

Instead of getting into meters and measuring current draw and voltage drops; I’d suggest a simpler approach.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery tender device (leave the positive on).
Turn on, do you still have the sound?
If No; it’s the battery tender device or negative connection*
If Yes; disconnect the positive lead of the battery tender device, and check again.

As max mentioned; make sure the bike cables are the first to contact the battery posts, then the tender leads (ie, tender lead goes through the battery bolt first, then the bike cable).

 

[Cormanus]

Curious little sound?

Instead of getting into meters and measuring current draw and voltage drops; I’d suggest a simpler approach.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery tender device (leave the positive on).
Turn on, do you still have the sound?
If No; it’s the battery tender device or negative connection*
If Yes; disconnect the positive lead of the battery tender device, and check again.

As max mentioned; make sure the bike cables are the first to contact the battery posts, then the tender leads (ie, tender lead goes through the battery bolt first, then the bike cable).

This is ambiguous to me. Do you mean that the bike cables should be next to the top of the battery or that the tender lead should be next to the top of the battery?

 

[Blockhead_imp]

Mine is setup with bike cables touching the top of the battery and the tender cables on top of the bike cables...no issues

 

[the Ferret]

I have mine like Blockheads too. Bike cables in direct contact with battery, battery tender cables on top of that, no washers of any kind, everything making direct contact with each other.

 

[Razor]

I have mine like Blockheads too. Bike cables in direct contact with battery, battery tender cables on top of that, no washers of any kind, everything making direct contact with each other.

This is the correct way to connect the bike cables and tender leads.
Thanks for the clarification, Blockhead & Mickey.

 

[the Ferret]

And Max and Razor are right above

When disconnecting .... negative first

When connecting ..... negative last

 

[max]

Curious little sound?

Instead of getting into meters and measuring current draw and voltage drops; I’d suggest a simpler approach.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery tender device (leave the positive on).
Turn on, do you still have the sound?
If No; it’s the battery tender device or negative connection*
If Yes; disconnect the positive lead of the battery tender device, and check again.

As max mentioned; make sure the bike cables are the first to contact the battery posts, then the tender leads (ie, tender lead goes through the battery bolt first, then the bike cable).

This is ambiguous to me. Do you mean that the bike cables should be next to the top of the battery or that the tender lead should be next to the top of the battery?

This is ambiguous to me. Do you mean that the bike cables should be next to the top of the battery or that the tender lead should be next to the top of the battery?
Good question Cormanus, the reason i mention no2 is because lordwasr said;

" this is how I connected the battery tender cables. So the "o ring" parts art on the bottom then the actual battery "+ , - " metal parts sit on top and then the screws . I accidently made a small spark too lol."

So i was not sure which order he had connected the tender cables and it is not immediately clear to the average rider that it is important to get the connections in the right order and clean the surfaces of the contacts ( not with sandpaper but a clean cloth, look under a microscope how you reduce the contact surface area contact and electro plating with sandpaper ).

It looks right and with most connections where not much current flows it is, but with upwards of 300 amps initially and dropping back to 130 amps when the engine is spinning this becomes an issue and is the reason the motor starter cables are so much thicker than the other wiring, there have even been problems on some model bikes where the designers got the cable size and connection point not correct and over time the owners end up replacing and re-connecting the starter cables.

Tucked away under the tool bucket and forgotten this may lead to a problem over time and strike far away from home.
We were just lucky lordwasr gave such a detailed description of the connection or we would have missed it.

At the same time it is nice to see he is having the prescribed amount of fun with his machine and tells us about it;
good on him.( Aussie speak )

.

 

[LordWasr_imp]

Morning all, woooo y’all are awesome ! I was expecting everyone to be annoyed of my questions hahaha. But firstly, thanks for responding ! I’ve read all of your posts twice so I understand . I also read the manual before taking the battery out too but maybe got nervous and forgot something when I made the spark lol!

Taking out battery
1)Negative out
2)Positive out

Putting it back in
1)Positive In
2)Negative In

I woke up an hour early to check the thread and to redo the leds just Incase I put them in wrong, which I did . I’ll upload a pic shortly of what it looks like. I’ll also report in on the clicking sound .

This is what I’m understanding
Battery + Bike Cable + Tender Leads sit on top + screw

So pretty much the same position as when I popped the seat off originally . Now I’m just removing the screws placing the “pigtail leads” on top and screwing back in.

Thanks everyone!!!
Ok, I'm back so I tried taking the negative off and checked for sound and it's there. So i'm just going to assume it's normal.

I re did the pigtails and have attached some photos. I also forgot to ask, for the tool compartment basket is it supposed to be flush when I put it back in? I forgot to take a before photo to see how it was originally. When I placed it back, I just sort of screwed it in place and popped the button in. Looks kind of weird with a gap but I'm not sure if this is right lol.

how I wired it the first time

how I wired it this morning (revised)

how the bucket looks when screwed in ( has gap )

a better pic of the gap

thanks everyone .

 

[Lord Popgun]

It looks to me like it is forced into position so you could get the fasteners installed. Hard to tell, but it may be hung up on the cables on the positive fastener. Pull the tool holder back out and see what you have. May have to move some terminals around or maybe a cable is in the way.

 

[Tim_imp]

Well if it is a 2014, it sounds the same as mine does, part of what you hear is the fuel pump pressurizing the system, and the other is the movement of the throttle settings to the choke I believe. See if it is still there when its hot, mine only makes it when cold. But I could be wrong (Always have to qualify statements) LoL

 

[LongRanger_imp]

There's no choke on the '14's (or on any others).

 

[Lord Popgun]

Thats right, no choke. Its all done with mirrors. Or injector dwell time and the IACV. Yeah, that one

 

[peterbaron]

CB does not have fly by wire throttle, therefore you cannot hear throttle movement at all...most likely relays and other electrically driven devices/solenoids are heard.

pb

 

[Cormanus]

Look, you guys, this is no choking matter!

 

[Lord Popgun]

Ha Ha!

Next up: How to mount the kickstart option :angel: