How to replace oil pan beyond bolts and sealant?

[pannierbagger]

Purchased a 2014 E with about 8k on it last August. Dealer told me it had “fresh oil.” A few days ago I went to change the oil and the drain plug was pretty tight. I got it to start loosening but now it just spins between loose and tight, not getting any lower. 

I’m thinking about replacing the whole pan, as a used one in good shape is around 50 dollars shipped. I can’t find a good step-by-step guide though. 

I know the gist of it would be: remove plug with downward pressure, drain oil, remove exhaust, remove bolts, wack with 2x4 or similar around seal, remove pan, clean mating surface on bike and new pan, apply sealant, apply bolts to torque spec and make sure new plug is torqued to 22 ft-lbs, add 4.1 quarts oil

Is there anything I’m missing/need to add/change? Should I ask a shop to install a helicoil instead of changing the pan? Thank you

 

[MagnaRider]

Did you post this question on Facebook earlier? This sounds like something I just read this morning lol.

But yes you are spot on for the procedure. Make sure to tighten the pan back on in a crisscrossing pattern slowly working your way up to the torque spec. If you can't get the drain plug out, your only option might be a full oil pan removal so be ready for a bit of a mess.

I think you could easily get away with replacing the threads with an insert and probably save a lot of money compared to a new pan. I would use a keensert or timesert compared to helicoil. These will work much better for something that you will be removing and installing over the life of your CB.

Either way you go, I would recommend taking the pan off before doing the thread repair so that you be sure no metal shavings remain inside the engine.

 

[rdprdp01]

[quote="pannierbagger" pid='274478' dateline='1780077731']
I’m thinking about replacing the whole pan, as a used one in good shape is around 50 dollars shipped. I can’t find a good step-by-step guide though. 
[/QUOTE]

Pannierbagger, I can't help with the oil pan or drain plug, but I can welcome you to the Forum. Delighted you're here.

If memory serves me well, I believe MagnaRider also purchased a 2014 and did a lot of research on the Forum and, I suspect, elsewhere. What I do know with absolute certainty is that he is a very gracious man and always ready to help. Like his moniker, Kermit the Frog, he always seems to settle things down and get right to it. I suspect he could sing us a song, too.

Have a good weekend, everyone. David

 

[pekingduck]

Did you post this question on Facebook earlier? This sounds like something I just read this morning lol.

But yes you are spot on for the procedure. Make sure to tighten the pan back on in a crisscrossing pattern slowly working your way up to the torque spec. If you can't get the drain plug out, your only option might be a full oil pan removal so be ready for a bit of a mess.

I think you could easily get away with replacing the threads with an insert and probably save a lot of money compared to a new pan. I would use a keensert or timesert compared to helicoil. These will work much better for something that you will be removing and installing over the life of your CB.

Either way you go, I would recommend taking the pan off before doing the thread repair so that you be sure no metal shavings remain inside the engine.

Agree with MagnaRider on all points, repairing yours would make it much better than even a new one.  I would also say there is nothing really wrong with a properly installed Helicoil.  I've never had a problem with them, and so much stronger than the original threads.  Time-sert and Keensert may have some advantages, but it's much harder to find a place that uses them instead.  

Also, you might want to take the oil pan to an old automotive machine shop instead, where they've done it before, and can drill the hole straight on a drill press.  Many bike shops have never done a thread repair, they just replace parts. They may not even have a drill press, and still charge over $150 an hour.

I would recommend buying a 14mmx1.25mm thread repair kit and do it yourself, save some money, and learn a little skill.  You really just need access to a drill press to be sure the hole is drilled square.  Then chuck the tap in the drill press, and turn the chuck by hand while applying a little pressure.  I add a drop of thread lock before installing the helicoil.  A decent kit is $25-$30 on Amazon.

 

[Randy B]

I found a new one on Webike out of Japan pretty inexpensive if that was the route that you wanted to go. $109.43 + shipping. It calculated to me $88.56 shipping, but I'm in Florida.

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