How does the EOT Communicate with ECM ??

HondaLou

First service completed
Thread starter
2014 CB1100 Deluxe:  
I've been chasing a problem with my gauges showing I have no oil pressure (I do 70-80PSI), Neutral light always on and Oil Temp light always on.  
I researched the service manual and also replaced all 3 sensors and wire which connects all three of these sensors.  
My question is how do these sensors really get the information to the ECM and gauges?  There is just one common wire harness that connects these 3 sensors.  
How does the "Magic" connection work if there is no wire connecting these sensors to the ECM directly?   See attached photos. [attachment=1718][attachment=1719]
 

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HondaLou,
The answer you seek is on the wiring diagram. See the diagram on page 20-6 labeled CB1100SA (AFTER '13 MODEL)

Look at the bottom of the page and find the EOT sensor. Follow the R/Bu wire and it goes directly to the ECM pin B27 and is labeled TO. The G/O wire goes to a junction block to a group of wires that are connected to chassis ground (the one closed to the Horn High symbol)

From the ECU it gets sent by the serial data line to the meter.

For oil pressure the diagram shows it only going to the meters. There is no mention anywhere of it going to the ECU or having a fault code for it. I think that the meter handles that with the light. Either you have pressure or you don't and the light comes on.

I still think you have a meter problem. Could be corrosion inside or maybe a failed meter. IDK
 
....and the wires, including the serial data line, must have a resistance not exceeding 0.5 ohms... The measurement should be taken with the components disconnected to check the resistance of the wire itself, rather than that of the system elements... The cause may be a poor contact that can be remedied by disconnecting and reconnecting the relevant connectors.
 
Besides, this issue has already been discussed here;

The CB1100 Community Forum

So, what is the situation after these five months? Was this motorcycle ever modified by the previous owner, were any accessories or anything of that sort installed, any accidents? Or are you perhaps withholding any important information?
 
Isn't your last question a little harsh, peterbaron? Don't you mean something like, "Is there anything else at all that you can tell us to help us diagnose the problem"?
 
Thread starter
So, I spent a lot of time removing corrosion and new chain, polishing, painting and new brake pads and bleeding lines, etc.
I did inspect the wiring diagram and that is the mystery. The R/BU wire and other sensor wires do not exist in this "closed" sub wire assembly. This wire does not go directly to the ECU. There are 3 sensors connected to each other as I show in the photo and no other wires going to these sensors. It is very strange. I checked the Honda schematics as well and sure enough, it shows this common sub-wire assembly connecting the 3 sensors and that is it. The EOT wire in this phots has a Black and green wire and simply dead ends into the sensor. I see no indication of other wires branching off this sub assembly and going to the ECU.


Lord Popgun said:
HondaLou,
The answer you seek is on the wiring diagram.  See the diagram on page 20-6 labeled CB1100SA (AFTER '13 MODEL)

Look at the bottom of the page and find the EOT sensor.  Follow the R/Bu wire and it goes directly to the ECM pin B27 and is labeled TO.  The G/O wire goes to a junction block to a group of wires that are connected to chassis ground (the one closed to the Horn High symbol)

From the ECU it gets sent by the serial data line to the meter.

For oil pressure the diagram shows it only going to the meters.  There is no mention anywhere of it going to the ECU or having a fault code for it.  I think that the meter handles that with the light.  Either you have pressure or you don't and the light comes on.

I still think you have a meter problem.  Could be corrosion inside or maybe a failed meter. IDK

I did inspect the wiring diagram and that is the mystery. The R/BU wire and other sensor wires do not exist in this "closed" sub wire assembly. This wire does not go directly to the ECU. There are 3 sensors connected to each other as I show in the photo and no other wires going to these sensors. It is very strange. I checked the Honda schematics as well and sure enough, it shows this common sub-wire assembly connecting the 3 sensors and that is it. The EOT wire in this photo has a Black and green wire and simply dead ends into the sensor. I see no indication of other wires branching off this sub assembly and going to the ECU.
 
HondaLou,

As per your photo/post # 1

"How does the "Magic" connection work if there is no wire connecting these (3) sensors to the ECM directly?   See attached photos."  

EOP - one wire /ground circuit & NEUTRAL SW - one wire/ground circuit GO to one common 2 pin connector: WPC 2P (Bl) >p.20-6,< and this WPC 2P (Bl) connector IS NOT connected to EOT sensor as you suggest in your picture/post #1

The EOT is a separate circuit = do not mix with EOP & N-SW

1. Connect your sub-harness WPC 2P (Bl) connector to the main harness/match colors*, not to EOT... and let us know
2. Connect,  hanging somwhere, WPC 2P (Bl) G/O-R/Bu colors to your EOT sensor

There are at least four WPC 2P (Bl), but each has different colors = pay attention to connector's colors!!!, you or the previous owner mixed them up, p.20-6

* As per diagram p.20-6, I see two WPC 2P (Bl) connectors but each one has different wire colors.
The main harness side WPC 2P (Bl) has Bu/R & Lg = should match colors of your sub harness P/N 32101-MGC-000

I have to dig deeper to understand and resolve this issue????
I am also concerned of the cluch diode, which is located in the fuse box , p.20-6
 
HondaLou,

I see the confusion. First, the way you have things connected in your first pic will not work. Will do nothing and be like that cable isn’t even there as it would not be doing things.

So, you made me go to a parts fiche (I used partzilla) and verified the cable is correct. So now I had to go look at mine as it is wired the same, even though I have a 2013. I’ll say thanks for that as I found the EOP wire out of the little clip. :)

Anyway I followed the EOP wire to the junction with the neutral switch and then to the end of the cable to the connector you have on the EOT. It actually goes to a connector in a boot behind the right side cover connecting to the wire harness. And my connector is red in the upper boot. You model might be slightly different.

The weird thing is the colors do not match the wiring diagram.

This is a work in progress. I have been trying to follow the EOT wire, but I’m going to have to remove the seat and lift the tank or remove the air box covers so I can see what is going on. So far it comes off the EOT, moves up to the bottom of the left airbox and I THINK it goes over to the right the the connector boots there. More to follow… tomorrow


PB posted before I did. Thanks PB, looks like your answer is better
 
Well, I can’t follow the EOT wire unless I remove the tank as lifting it doesn’t get me anywhere. I’m not doing that as I am not messing around with the aggravating fuel connector.
 
Thread starter
peterbaron said:
HondaLou,

As per your photo/post # 1

"How does the "Magic" connection work if there is no wire connecting these (3) sensors to the ECM directly?   See attached photos."  

EOP - one wire /ground circuit & NEUTRAL SW - one wire/ground circuit GO to one common 2 pin connector: WPC 2P (Bl) >p.20-6,< and this WPC 2P (Bl) connector IS NOT connected to EOT sensor as you suggest in your picture/post #1

The EOT is a separate circuit = do not mix with EOP & N-SW

1. Connect your sub-harness WPC 2P (Bl) connector to the main harness/match colors*, not to EOT... and let us know
2. Connect,  hanging somwhere, WPC 2P (Bl) G/O-R/Bu colors to your EOT sensor

There are at least four WPC 2P (Bl), but each has different colors = pay attention to connector's colors!!!, you or the previous owner mixed them up, p.20-6

* As per diagram p.20-6, I see two WPC 2P (Bl) connectors but each one has different wire colors.
The main harness side WPC 2P (Bl) has Bu/R & Lg = should match colors of your sub harness P/N 32101-MGC-000

I have to dig deeper to understand and resolve this issue????
I am also concerned of the cluch diode, which is located in the fuse box , p.20-6

Son of a gun.  No wonder these things are not working.  SO it seems what I am using on the EOT switch needs to go elsewhere.  And I need to find the connector that goes to the EOT switch.  I'll bet it is connected where I need to put this connector I have on the EOT.  Thank you so much, I will start hunting for the right connector for the EOT. 
Lou


Lord Popgun said:
HondaLou,

I see the confusion.  First, the way you have things connected in your first pic will not work.  Will do nothing and be like that cable isn’t even there as it would not be doing things.

So, you made me go to a parts fiche (I used partzilla) and verified the cable is correct.  So now I had to go look at mine as it is wired the same, even though I have a 2013.  I’ll say thanks for that as I found the EOP wire out of the little clip. :)

Anyway I followed the EOP wire to the junction with the neutral switch and then to the end of the cable to the connector you have on the EOT.  It actually goes to a connector in a boot behind the right side cover connecting to the wire harness.  And my connector is red in the upper boot.  You model might be slightly different.

The weird thing is the colors do not match the wiring diagram.

This is a work in progress.  I have been trying to follow the EOT wire, but I’m going to have to remove the seat and lift the tank or remove the air box covers so I can see what is going on.  So far it comes off the EOT, moves up to the bottom of the left airbox and I THINK it goes over to the right the the connector boots there.  More to follow… tomorrow


PB posted before I did.  Thanks PB, looks like your answer is better


Thank you so much.  It looks like the same type of connector for I have on the EOT can be found elsewhere.  I will start hunting for a similar connector and exhchange them.  What a mess the PO has left me.  But I will figure it out.   
Lou
 
OK, I took another look while the tank is lifted. I took off the black plastic cover on the left side and could follow the EOT sensor cable. It is not a sub-harness, it comes out of the main wiring harness.

On my bike it branches out of the harness behind the chassis downtube (the one to rear of the airbox) right below a crosstube. So from there it goes down behind the airbox turns underneath the airbox and on to the sensor. There are some clips that hold the cable and other cables/tubes there.

I took a look at your harness on the parts fiche and it does show the connector and all, but is not labeled. Hope this helps.
 
HondaLou said:
peterbaron said:
HondaLou,

As per your photo/post # 1

"How does the "Magic" connection work if there is no wire connecting these (3) sensors to the ECM directly?   See attached photos."  

EOP - one wire /ground circuit & NEUTRAL SW - one wire/ground circuit GO to one common 2 pin connector: WPC 2P (Bl) >p.20-6,< and this WPC 2P (Bl) connector IS NOT connected to EOT sensor as you suggest in your picture/post #1

The EOT is a separate circuit = do not mix with EOP & N-SW

1. Connect your sub-harness WPC 2P (Bl) connector to the main harness/match colors*, not to EOT... and let us know
2. Connect,  hanging somwhere, WPC 2P (Bl) G/O-R/Bu colors to your EOT sensor

There are at least four WPC 2P (Bl), but each has different colors = pay attention to connector's colors!!!, you or the previous owner mixed them up, p.20-6

* As per diagram p.20-6, I see two WPC 2P (Bl) connectors but each one has different wire colors.
The main harness side WPC 2P (Bl) has Bu/R & Lg = should match colors of your sub harness P/N 32101-MGC-000

I have to dig deeper to understand and resolve this issue????
I am also concerned of the cluch diode, which is located in the fuse box , p.20-6

Son of a gun.  No wonder these things are not working.  SO it seems what I am using on the EOT switch needs to go elsewhere.  And I need to find the connector that goes to the EOT switch.  I'll bet it is connected where I need to put this connector I have on the EOT.  Thank you so much, I will start hunting for the right connector for the EOT. 
Lou


Lord Popgun said:
HondaLou,

I see the confusion.  First, the way you have things connected in your first pic will not work.  Will do nothing and be like that cable isn’t even there as it would not be doing things.

So, you made me go to a parts fiche (I used partzilla) and verified the cable is correct.  So now I had to go look at mine as it is wired the same, even though I have a 2013.  I’ll say thanks for that as I found the EOP wire out of the little clip. :)

Anyway I followed the EOP wire to the junction with the neutral switch and then to the end of the cable to the connector you have on the EOT.  It actually goes to a connector in a boot behind the right side cover connecting to the wire harness.  And my connector is red in the upper boot.  You model might be slightly different.

The weird thing is the colors do not match the wiring diagram.

This is a work in progress.  I have been trying to follow the EOT wire, but I’m going to have to remove the seat and lift the tank or remove the air box covers so I can see what is going on.  So far it comes off the EOT, moves up to the bottom of the left airbox and I THINK it goes over to the right the the connector boots there.  More to follow… tomorrow


PB posted before I did.  Thanks PB, looks like your answer is better


Thank you so much.  It looks like the same type of connector for I have on the EOT can be found elsewhere.  I will start hunting for a similar connector and exhchange them.  What a mess the PO has left me.  But I will figure it out.   
Lou





Lou,

Lord Popgun and I studied together at Boston Electric University, MA,  where we had wonderful professors such as Dr. Volt, Dr. Ohm, and Dr. Ampere.
During the inauguration this trio of lecturers told us that we were the best students they had ever had in their careers... ;) 

Let us know when you are completely done, you may have to delete your dtc to get rid of MIL amber light.
 
Thread starter
OK, Thank you all for your help.  Sure enough the prior owner or their mechanic must have removed a few parts diagnosing something. Then put it back together wrong.  
The EOT connector was switched to where the Neutral/ and EOP were supposed to connect to.  They routed the EOT connector upwards and over the air box.  No way to get it back down until I remove the air box and reroute back to the other side and downwards.  What a pain, but the mystery is solved with all your help. 

Thank You !!  Lou
 

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Lou, I haven’t put my bike back together yet. I’ll hold off if you want some pics of how that cable is routed. They might not be awesome, but will show you.

Glad we all got this worked out, and sorry for not paying attention to that first pic. Attention to detail is critical in this stuff and I FAILED! Dr. Short and Dr. Open are laughing now. ;)
 
Will Oleander be in bloom? Cause William and Mary won't do now.
 
Thread starter
Lord Popgun said:
Lou,  I haven’t put my bike back together yet.  I’ll hold off if you want some pics of how that cable is routed.  They might not be awesome, but will show you.

Glad we all got this worked out, and sorry for not paying attention to that first pic.  Attention to detail is critical in this stuff and I FAILED!  Dr. Short and Dr. Open are laughing now. ;)

I’m good now.  Has to remove the tank - ugh.  And then pulled the rear air box back enough to reroute the correct EOT wire.   I was able to test and yahooooie.   The N light now goes off and shows me the gear on the meter display.   No more oil pressure light after start and the oil temp light is off.   I’ll reserve DCT tomorrow and get rid of the #7 hard start code due to EOT issue. 
Thanks again !!!!
 
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