Honda CB1100 Rough Idle Solution

I see no sensor under my seat and compartment box. Only have a fuse box. Could it be the seat is putting pressure on the fuse box and cause loose electrical contact??
 
Thread starter
According to the Honda CB1100 shop manual the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is under the left side cover and fastened to the rear air cleaner housing with two screws.
 
Regarding the manual:
Note the symptoms/fail safe function of all DTC on pages 5-15 and 5-16 of FSM.

The IAT defaults to 95 degrees F.

Suggest that the OP verify that the air filter is clean, look for a vacuum leak, check condition of spark plugs and ensure that the battery cables are well secured.
 
Thread starter
Thanks for the suggestions. A few thousand miles ago I replaced the air filter and spark plugs as part of regular maintenance. And I re-installed the battery for spring two months ago being sure the terminal connections are tight.

The fluctuating idle has not recurred for over three weeks since removing the stack of bungee cords from the under-seat compartment. I have been riding my bike almost every day over that time.

Prior to removing them, the fluctuating idle would occur intermittently two or three times over a 30 minute ride.

It is the lack of any more fluctuating idle problems over the past three plus weeks that makes me think there is nothing mechanically wrong with my bike. The idle has always been smooth during that time.

To confirm that the stack of bungee cords are involved, in a few days I will put them back in the storage compartment and try to reproduce the idle problem.
 
I put a resistor in the wire from the temp sensor to the ECU to spoof it and make it add more fuel to stop a serious ping on my Kawi Nomad. It worked, but the best solution was one of those four-pot fueling regulator, plus rerouting the intake air stream, removing the idle air injectors and drilling the muffler. Right about when I had it running the way I wanted, my wife said she could not ride with me as long as her mother is still alive and kicking. I sold the bike.
 
dickie1951_imp said:
Thanks for the suggestions. A few thousand miles ago I replaced the air filter and spark plugs as part of regular maintenance. And I re-installed the battery for spring two months ago being sure the terminal connections are tight.

The fluctuating idle has not recurred for over three weeks since removing the stack of bungee cords from the under-seat compartment. I have been riding my bike almost every day over that time.

Prior to removing them, the fluctuating idle would occur intermittently two or three times over a 30 minute ride.

It is the lack of any more fluctuating idle problems over the past three plus weeks that makes me think there is nothing mechanically wrong with my bike. The idle has always been smooth during that time.

To confirm that the stack of bungee cords are involved, in a few days I will put them back in the storage compartment and try to reproduce the idle problem.
BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables checked?

Vacuum lines intact?

Check all the hoses, including 4 way and 5 way vacuum fittings?

A crack would suck air and increase idle...unless the crack got bigger than it would decrease idle.
Be good to replace with brass, but finding more than a 3 way would be a challenge.
The 5 way (part 18) is 17201-MCJ-003 ($7 list)
The 4 way (part 19) is 17201-MCZ-003 ($5.60 list)

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/201...#sch848000

Not stating that this is the problem, but worth checking.
 
Charlie Bravo_imp said:
I put a resistor in the wire from the temp sensor to the ECU to spoof it and make it add more fuel to stop a serious ping on my Kawi Nomad. It worked, but the best solution was one of those four-pot fueling regulator, plus rerouting the intake air stream, removing the idle air injectors and drilling the muffler. Right about when I had it running the way I wanted, my wife said she could not ride with me as long as her mother is still alive and kicking. I sold the bike.
You picked your mother in law over your bike ???
 
Houtman_imp said:
Charlie Bravo_imp said:
I put a resistor in the wire from the temp sensor to the ECU to spoof it and make it add more fuel to stop a serious ping on my Kawi Nomad. It worked, but the best solution was one of those four-pot fueling regulator, plus rerouting the intake air stream, removing the idle air injectors and drilling the muffler. Right about when I had it running the way I wanted, my wife said she could not ride with me as long as her mother is still alive and kicking. I sold the bike.
You picked your mother in law over your bike ???
You picked your mother in law over your bike ???
I was already considering selling it, too big and too heavy for everyday riding, and it was developing electrical problems too.
 
I have this unstable idle problem on my 2014 CB1100EX owned from new and it's rubbish.
I also have had a clunk from new from the front end going over bumps, rotors that heat up even after caliper service and loads of other issues with spoke corrosion and paint flaking off the engine.
New £10,200
Worth it.
Absolutely NOT
What a flop
 
Johnnb_imp said:
I have this unstable idle problem on my 2014 CB1100EX owned from new and it's rubbish.
I also have had a clunk from new from the front end going over bumps, rotors that heat up even after caliper service and loads of other issues with spoke corrosion and paint flaking off the engine.
New £10,200
Worth it.
Absolutely NOT
What a flop
Welcome to the best forum on the WWW! Your experience is atypical, to say the least. I'm on my fourth Honda bike, and third Honda car, and have never had problems like that. I hope you can get that sorted.
 
Dickie, are there any scuff marks on the bottom of the Corbin seat pan that would suggest it's putting a load on something it shouldn't?

I concur with your idea of putting the bungees back in first to see what happens. Keep us posted.
 
Thread starter
I am back working on my oscillating idle problem. I spent most of last year dealing with a health issue.

All the previous changes that I tried did not fix my idle problem. The problem continued to occur on days of around 80 degrees F or warmer, especially in stop-and-go city traffic.

My two latest changes may have fixed the problem. I have not seen the idle oscillation problem in the last several weeks of riding almost every day. These are my latest changes to fix the idle problem.

1. I turn the ignition on without starting the engine, fully open and close the throttle three times, then turn the ignition off. It is my understanding that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a variable resistor much like the volume control on an old radio. This resistor may get dirty or worn, and needs to be cleaned or recalibrated for a smooth idle. I hope the three throttle twists do both.

2. I then turn the ignition on, wait 5 seconds, and start the engine. This should give the ECM (Engine Control Module) enough time to successfully complete its software initialization.

I will post if and when the oscillating idle problem returns after making these changes to fix it.
 
mine will do weird things if i dont notice my clutch is pulled all the way in i think a good clutch bleed may help some of these issues not all but some
 
Thread starter
All of my idle tests were done with the transmission in neutral and the clutch released. With my latest changes in post #34, I have not seen the oscillating idle problem.
 
dickie1951_imp said:
All of my idle tests were done with the transmission in neutral and the clutch released. With my latest changes in post #34, I have not seen the oscillating idle problem.
dickie1951, I had the fast (2000 rpm) idle problem which went away when I followed Peterbaron's method of re-setting the ECU. Basically, you take the leads off the battery and connect them (making sure to keep them AWAY from the battery) for 15 minutes. I know nothing about how or why this might have resolved the problem, but it did.
Before the re-set, no matter what I did, the bike would idle at 2,000rpm. Now it is back to idling at 1100. Just something to consider if your problem returns. Costs nothing and won't hurt anything.
 
Thread starter
Thanks for the suggestion. I will add it to the list of possible next solutions should my latest fixes in post #34 not hold up.

I have never had a fast idle problem. My idle problem has always been: oscillating from 1100 RPM, then down to 700 RPM, and back up to 1100 RPM every second or two. This would continue for as many minutes as it took for me to return home and shutdown the bike.
 
Thats what mine does if im sitting at a light too long and i leave the clutch out just a bit to far and if i pulled it tight to the bars it will idle normal its like that iac is trying to keep in from stalling just my experience probably nothing to do with the issues others are having just a observation
 
dickie1951_imp said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I will add it to the list of possible next solutions should my latest fixes in post #34 not hold up.

I have never had a fast idle problem. My idle problem has always been: oscillating from 1100 RPM, then down to 700 RPM, and back up to 1100 RPM every second or two. This would continue for as many minutes as it took for me to return home and shutdown the bike.
I’ve been experiencing this same issue with the 1100-700 idle on my 2014 CB1100. Someone mentioned low idle could be vacuum leaks so I started checking tubes, hoses….when I discovered that all 8 screw clamps that connect throttle body to intake were loose, I’m talking 8-10 turns each before they felt like they were tight. Time will tell, but ever since idle has been steady at 1k, no oscillating. Maybe combination of heat and vibration causing leak???
Will try to attach pic of 1 side which will show 4 of 8 screw clamps that I’m referring to.
 
Back
Top