Handlebar Risers
- Thread starter mrichi_imp
- Start date
jtopiso_imp
Been there
I could, if I knew how to post them.mrded_imp said:
Jtopsio, if this thread http://cb1100forum.com/forum/member.php?...e&uid=4724 doesn’t help, PM me and I’ll help.
jtopiso_imp
Been there
Cormanus_imp said:
That link is not taking me to any thread, but to a user profile.
pekingduck
Road warrior
From the Department of Shameless Cross-Promotions:
I just posted some pics of Rox Speed 2" adjustable risers for sale in the classifieds.
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15951
I just posted some pics of Rox Speed 2" adjustable risers for sale in the classifieds.
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15951
Apologies, jtopsio. Try this, http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12717
jtopiso_imp
Been there
Massive compression. Let's se what you get...
That empty space at the bottom is required.
If it wasn't there, what are you clamping? You need to make sure the flat faces do full contact, and all the bolt load goes into compressing the joint. If the round section was making contact before the flat face did, the bolt load wouldn't compress the flat face: it would bend it.
When you are clamping a handlebar, the design is opposite: you need to make sure that you are clamping the bar, so there must be a gap between the flat faces.
Thanks, I've found a workaround to avoid setting up an imgur account.Cormanus_imp said:
TXBikerGuy_imp said:Crazyirv_imp said:
The fit on the bottom does leave empty space. I'd prefer not to have it that way as well, but wasn't able to find any better options. Right or wrong, I have some faith in the folks at SW-Motech in terms of product design so was willing to go with this based on that.
That empty space at the bottom is required.
If it wasn't there, what are you clamping? You need to make sure the flat faces do full contact, and all the bolt load goes into compressing the joint. If the round section was making contact before the flat face did, the bolt load wouldn't compress the flat face: it would bend it.
When you are clamping a handlebar, the design is opposite: you need to make sure that you are clamping the bar, so there must be a gap between the flat faces.
furious_blue_imp
Been there
I found the forum posts helpful when I was looking into taller risers to raise the handlebar height. I went with a cheap and flexible option from BikeMaster:
BikeMaster Handlebar Risers - RevZilla
these are cheap at $34 and offer 4 options for straight raising of the bars: +1", +1.1875", +1.374", +1.5"
I opted for +1.374" which went on easily with no problems with regards to cable or hose lengths, stock worked just fine.
They don't look factory, but they work fine and were cheap.
<I haven't been able to figure out how to upload an image as an attachment and then add it to a post>
BikeMaster Handlebar Risers - RevZilla
these are cheap at $34 and offer 4 options for straight raising of the bars: +1", +1.1875", +1.374", +1.5"
I opted for +1.374" which went on easily with no problems with regards to cable or hose lengths, stock worked just fine.
They don't look factory, but they work fine and were cheap.
<I haven't been able to figure out how to upload an image as an attachment and then add it to a post>
furious_blue_imp
Been there
photo of Bike Master risers installed:
HigginsNYC_imp
Running like a top
Hello,mrichi_imp said:
I've got these I pulled from my '13 when I swapped bars.
I'd take $40 all in (shipping included to lower 48) if you're interested.
-Mike
A few thought on the effects all risers must necessarily have on your spinal column and disks (unless the raiserr's height is marginal) and on backaches.
When the bar is raised, it makes you lean a little more backward (wanted or not). This in turn changes the angle between the vertical and your spines.
The more upright you sit, the smaller this angle =>
a) your body's weight compresses your intervert disks more b) and any bumps in the road compress them more then without the raisers.
The more you lean forward, the larger this angle =>
a) some extra part of the body's weight lays now on your wrists and arms, b) less weight on the disks c) bumps in the road do compress them less.
Anybody able to make a few good sketches for those who have backaches (on the m/c or otherwise).
When the bar is raised, it makes you lean a little more backward (wanted or not). This in turn changes the angle between the vertical and your spines.
The more upright you sit, the smaller this angle =>
a) your body's weight compresses your intervert disks more b) and any bumps in the road compress them more then without the raisers.
The more you lean forward, the larger this angle =>
a) some extra part of the body's weight lays now on your wrists and arms, b) less weight on the disks c) bumps in the road do compress them less.
Anybody able to make a few good sketches for those who have backaches (on the m/c or otherwise).
Brenherts_imp
New to the forum
I had a "problem", yes.Ulljanrich_imp said:
I installed these:
Handlebar riser and offset for Honda CB 1100 / EX / RS SC65 SC78, 69,95 €
and now it is sooo much better.
Ciao
Thomas Hi Thomas, did you need to change/modify the cables to fit these? Thanks, Brendan
Tev62
Road warrior
No but you can try Cycle Ergo to see the effects for yourself on a 2013 CB1100. Go to the options and add to your handlebar rise there.j3gq_imp said:
Wagonpeddler_imp
Running like a top
So many threads about risers....don't need to start a new one. Had another thought, however. My 2014 has a Corbin seat. If the seat bolster was a few inches more forward, wouldn't need risers. 4-5" closer to the bars would improve my riding position and straighten my 70+ year old back. I know risers would be cheaper. Some seem to have success with them, others don't. Just exploring other ways to change rider position.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
I hear ya.Wagonpeddler_imp said:
Some video references suggest basically that if you need risers, then something is wrong with you.
Well, ... yeah?
There are millions of us and typically only a couple or one of the bike model you are riding.In any case, one can spend the time to find out the "gaps" in the desired and comfortable triangle position target and then address those gaps with changes in the bike - whatever they may be (e.g. seat height, suspension height, risers, foot peg position, different bike, etc.)
Overall for me, it was saddle height and relative handlebar position.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Wagonpeddler_imp said:
One of the first things I changed on my bike- I didn't do risers- I put on handlebars off a different Honda that are the same height- but a little wider and a little more pulled back towards me.
I def sit a little more upright.
the Ferret
Road warrior
PD did you have to order cables or were you able to use the stock cables with those? I'm sure Wagonpeddler et al would be interested.
peterbaron
Road warrior
NO bike is universal for different size riders and vice versa.
Drastic ergonomics mods carry some negative effects and compromises riding position.
For some will work, for others it won't. Know your limits.
Drastic ergonomics mods carry some negative effects and compromises riding position.
For some will work, for others it won't. Know your limits.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
The ferret_imp said:
Stock cables. Tight- but works fine.
GoldOxide_imp
Road warrior
Man, that angle of that CB1100 means business ...
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