Goldwing Rider Pegs (wider than stock ones)

H

Huladog_imp

Running like a top
Thread starter
In case you've never sat on a late model Honda Goldwing it may surprise you that they come with wider rider pegs and not floorboards like you might expect.

As I mentioned in another topic thread I had read about using the Goldwing pegs on the current CB300's and CB500's and knew the Honda foot peg mounting system is the same across the model line up so I went ahead and ordered a set of replacement pegs on eBay to give it a shot.

Camera angle is misleading, they're not that huge:



The installation is simple enough, remove the cotter pin, pull up the pivot pin, watch out for the washer and spring, then do the reverse to install the new peg. Don't be like me and forget to replace the washer and you have to take it all apart again. Or, you spend more time fiddling with the peg return spring getting it all lined up just right so the pivot pin slips back into place.

Right side, no problems, no issues:





Left side? Discovered I needed to loosen the bolt holding the shift lever to give me enough room to remove the pivot pin, then I discovered there isn't enough clearance between the shift lever and the Goldwing peg! Not a big problem, just need to bust out the Dremel and grind the peg a bit tonight.

Looks worse in these photos than in real life ..... I hope.







Happy to be the guinea pig for you all! Will post an update after I grind that interference away.

Aloha,
Huladog
 
Thanks! I've been wondering, as the Moto Guzzi Norge riders recommend the Gold Wing pegs as an upgrade to the Norge units for more comfort.
 
Thread starter
Sorry I took so long to get to Part 2 but when I started the peg installation I did it before I went to work the other day and only had time today to complete it since I took a day off to visit the doctor.

Grinding some relief for the shifter bolt was no big deal, went pretty fast and probably took me longer to gather up my tools than it took to grind a little aluminum away.

Shop Safety Talk: Wear some kind of eye protection because the Dremel will throw up a bunch of tiny metal chips that would hurt like hell if they get in your eye. You'll see the tiny chips in the following photos.





Right about now I said "oh-oh, the shift lever rubs against the inside of the peg". Never thought about that. The CB11 is really built to some tight tolerances and the stock peg has enough clearances around it that none of this is an issue until you start messing around with stuff that was never designed for the CB11 in the first place.

Yellow arrow shows you the new clearance with the shifter bolt. Red arrow shows you where I started noticing interference with that rounded off end to that pin and later with the bend in the shifter lever.



Dremel to the rescue and this time it took a lot longer to grind a bit, test the fit, grind some more, test fit some more. Your experience may vary due to slight differences in aftermarket "Goldwing" pegs from overseas. The aluminum alloy they use in the stock pegs and the aftermarket pegs isn't very hard so a Dremel makes quick work of it, just take it slow and careful even though you will never see your handiwork in daily use.

Yellow arrow shows you the curved relief I ground for the shift bolt. Red arrow shows you the area on the inside of peg that needed to be ground down for relief from the shift lever and protruding pin.



View from the top shows you the clearance I needed to grind.



And lastly, using the super-high-tech-LED-lighted-mirror-on-a-stick that I learned about using to check your oil level while sitting on the bike (from another forum topic) I checked the clearance from below while working the lever just to be sure.



I also checked the clearance by slipping a scrap of thin cardboard into the gap and worked the lever and watched to see if the peg moved at all.

Looks good but just to be super-sure I rubbed a blue Sharpie all over the shifter lever and inside of the peg like a DIY machinist's bluing so I could see if it rubbed while riding later.

You want to know how careful Honda seems to be when building our bikes? Do this mod and the very first step is to bend back the ends of the cotter pins securing the peg pivot pins, you'll see that the factory carefully folded the ends of the cotter pins around the peg pivot pin so it follows the curve of the pin and it'll take you a little time to find a small screwdriver or utility knife blade in order to simply pry those carefully folded ends of the cotter pins away so you can straighten then out to be removed!

Aloha,
Huladog
 
Ferret or Cormanus,

Any chance this could go in the HOW-TO section? Would be easy to find in the future instead of having to search around for it.
 
Thread starter
Ride Report: Went well, didn't need to make any adjustments to how I use the rear brake or the shifter (which I had previously raised so I had more room for my boot toe to fit under).

Feels good like I expected where your foot has a larger surface to rest on so your lower leg isn't tensing up to hold your foot in position. I noticed this when I was riding my CTX1300 which has a slightly forward peg position but I could feel my lower leg getting tense holding my foot in position.

On that bike I had installed some mini-floorboards which worked well and the ride got even more relaxing without any of the fiddling I had to do to get the Goldwing pegs to fit the CB11.

HOWEVER I discovered something that you should be aware of. Before I rode off on my test ride I folded the side stand up like usual, no problems there, but when I stopped and reached for that extension on the side stand that you usually push on with your boot heel? Nowhere to be found!

It's there but the wider peg hides it so you have to look for the actual side stand "foot" and push that to extend the side stand. That threw me off as I rode off and I wondered if the side stand was retracted against the bottom of the foot peg (it's not, it retracts to hit the side stand stop).

Also checked the blue Sharpie ink on the shift and peg, no interference, no scraped off ink so good to go on that issue.

One more thing to keep in mind. The feelers from the stock pegs didn't fit the Goldwing pegs since the bolt hole was much smaller on the replacement pegs, there is a threaded hole but it seems to be some oddball thread size as I haven't found any of my leftover bolts that will fit.

Here's a couple photos so you can see how the side stand retracts and hides under the foot peg.





Aloha,
Huladog
 
Those are some serious pegs Huladog. Glad you found something that works for you and thanks for doing the tute.
 
I did the Goldwing pegs on my CB1100 about a year ago. Yep, had to grind a little from the peg on the left side. Trial and error on the grinding, as I did not want to remove anymore metal than necessary.
 
Any chance we can get Honda part numbers? Ebay has over 4500 listings for GW pegs, 99.9% of which are hideous aftermarket pegs...
 
Thread starter
Try searching for "GL1800" and year 2010 or so which should pull up recent models.

They've been using the same units for years.

If you want slightly smaller ones try looking for pegs for the 2014 CTX1300 which I think are similar but not as wide.

Aloha,
Huladog


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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