Gear shift indicator stuck on 4

[bflint]

My six speed 2014 CB1100 DLX just started acting up today when getting on freeway. Came off the SoCal on ramp in 4th and ran mph up to 70 (about 500o rpm) and then shifted into 5th then 6th. However gear shift indicator is stuck on 4. Turned everything off. Started up but still show 4 no matter what gear. Refueled and reset odom hoping this might do something …. but still shows 4. Any thoughts …. I have shop manual so I will look for something there also. Cheers ….

 

[the Ferret]

Maybe disconect battery for 10 minutes and reconnect? Bet Max, Doc or popgun can figure it out.

 

[bflint]

Will give that a try

 

[Lord Popgun]

I’ll have to do some looking as my bike doesn’t have a gear shift indicator. OK, I do have one, but it is aftermarket.

A quick look at the wiring diagram shows a gear position switch that puts a ground on one of 6 wires that go to the meter. Neutral has no wire so when in neutral no wire has a ground on it.

With no wire having a ground you would have a neutral indication at the meter. Since you have a 4 showing then the white wire would normally be grounded. Assuming (yes, I know ) the meter is good, I would suspect the switch.

I don’t know how it is mechanized (connected to the shifter) though. But by disconnecting its connector You could easily check the switch with a multimeter while working the shifter through each gear and metering each pin to ground. I’ll have to look in the manual some to see where it is and how it works with the shifter.
OK, if you have that manual, look on page 19-38. It shows how to test the switch by doing what I said above. Picture makes it easy. If it has to be replaced it doesn’t look too difficult, just a little pain in the, well, you know.

 

[bflint]

Disconnected battery for 4 hours. Reconnected … still stuck on 4. Was a good idea though. Thanks Mr Popgun for your research. Will refer to my manual and locate the switch. Thanks

 

[Lord Popgun]

If the switch checks good you could actually disconnect the switch connector and ground each pin on the bike side of the connector one at a time and verify the meter indication. Using the wiring diagram of course. It is a very simple circuit.

 

[the Ferret]

Disconnected battery for 4 hours. Reconnected … still stuck on 4. Was a good idea though. Thanks Mr Popgun for your research. Will refer to my manual and locate the switch. Thanks

Shoot I was hoping that would reboot the system ( then again I'm no mechanical genius and try simple things first before taking it to a shop of trained mechanics lol)

 

[pekingduck]

The gear position switch is a simple rotary switch with 6 contacts inside. It is mechanically rotated by the gear shift drum. If it displays the same gear position (4) as you shift normally, the switch is simply not turning. It is not a wiring problem or a short or open.

It relies on a little roll pin pressed perpendicularly into the rotating shaft of the switch, which aligns with a slot in the end of the shift shaft. When the switch is installed at the factory, it must be aligned by eye before bolting it in place. It is easy to get it miss-aligned, which could bend or break the roll pin.

The switch is underneath the sprocket cover.

 

[Lord Popgun]

And now I know how it mates with the transmission. That isn't shown or shown well in the service manual. Assuming the meter hasn't failed, it seemed obvious the switch isn't turning or has failed. Checking with a meter would tell most of the tale.

Do you know if the roll pin could be replaced? I have a kit of roll pins. Sure would be cheaper than a new switch.

 

[E11even_Hunnit]

Don't mean to thread hack, but has anyone here ever experienced False Neutrals/Un-displayed Neutrals?

Has this switch failed others prematurely?

My bike is at ~7k and as of late, I've experienced a few inconsistencies with the gear indicator, all from a cold start- It will show (-) on the meter, without having the green (N) bulb come on in the Tach(Bike will not crank). Then I will clip on the bike, lift the kickstand(N light still wont come on), and it will crank and start right up

My initial thoughts were maybe this was oil-related, but as this has happened a handful of times in the past month, I'm starting to think it's a bad connection somewhere or a switch going bad..

 

[pekingduck]

The switch isn't too expensive - $82 msrp, but if all it needs is a roll pin, Harbor Freight has a kit for $5. It's pretty small in diameter, probably 3mm or smaller (like maybe 1/16", which is the smallest in the Harbor Freight kit). It may be the same size as pins in old Honda neutral switches.

Whether replacing the pin or installing a new one, I think the switch can be installed 180 degrees out of phase. So turn the key on (no need to start the bike) and rotate the switch shaft to see that it runs through the gear display, and return it to neutral.

 

[the Ferret]

the - indicates an improper shift. Are you sure you are not just nudging the lever? It needs to be deliberately shifted.

 

[pekingduck]

Don't mean to thread hack, but has anyone here ever experienced False Neutrals/Un-displayed Neutrals?

Has this switch failed others prematurely?

My bike is at ~7k and as of late, I've experienced a few inconsistencies with the gear indicator, all from a cold start- It will show (-) on the meter, without having the green (N) bulb come on in the Tach(Bike will not crank). Then I will clip on the bike, lift the kickstand(N light still wont come on), and it will crank and start right up

My initial thoughts were maybe this was oil-related, but as this has happened a handful of times in the past month, I'm starting to think it's a bad connection somewhere or a switch going bad..

Not a known problem. On the 2017, the gear position switch shows ( - ) when it is not solidly in a gear. It is blank when in neutral. The green neutral light is activated by a separate, more positive switch under the engine.

So why doesn't it indicate Neutral in the gear display? That's a question for the Department of Redundancy Department.

 

[bflint]

Thank you Mr PekingDuck

 

[pekingduck]

Please let us know what you find. It's an unusual problem.

 

[Lord Popgun]

The green N comes from a ground when the neutral switch is in the neutral position. Wire goes from the neutral switch to the clutch diode pack, through one of the 2 diodes and up to the meter. The other diode is connected to the clutch switch on the handlebar and the starter relay switch. This is all (or mostly) part of the interlock circuit to prevent starting in gear or riding off with the sidestand down.

The sidestand switch is also connected to the clutch switch.

There is a little diagram of some of the operation on Page 17-2 in your manual for the ignition part. And on page 5-11 at the top of the page and lower right. Usually between these and the diagram you can figure out what is wrong.

I think MAX or Sportsterdoc wrote up a pretty nice explanation of the faults and troubleshooting for all this. Maybe I’ll search later.

 

[the Ferret]

Got a PM from Doc which says in part

The switch 35759-MGC-N21 for 2014 model is suspect or the activating mechanism may have crud in it.

Glad to see popgun on it.

I have promised myself to not log onto any forum after this month.

 

[pekingduck]

My six speed 2014 CB1100 DLX just started acting up today when getting on freeway. Came off the SoCal on ramp in 4th and ran mph up to 70 (about 500o rpm) and then shifted into 5th then 6th. However gear shift indicator is stuck on 4. Turned everything off. Started up but still show 4 no matter what gear. Refueled and reset odom hoping this might do something …. but still shows 4. Any thoughts …. I have shop manual so I will look for something there also. Cheers ….

Just to be clear, on your bike, it indicates 4th gear all the time now, but the neutral light still indicates properly, right?

 

[Lord Popgun]

I would agree with Sportsterdoc. The sidestand switch is in a place to get crudded up easily. Get down on your knees and check it out

 

[E11even_Hunnit]

Got a PM from Doc which says in part

The switch 35759-MGC-N21 for 2014 model is suspect or the activating mechanism may have crud in it.

Glad to see popgun on it.

I have promised myself to not log onto any forum after this month.

This actually sounds very spot on, I will check back once I get the chance to look further into this, not sure when that will be with long work hours. The bike is daily'd and although this is a nuisance, doesn't need immediate addressing. But thank you all for your prompt attention