Front Wheel Collard question

[jdvalero_imp]

Need your help on this one. Replaced front tires and something is wrong.
According to the shop manual the collards are the same exact measurement length wise. Parts manual tell me there are two different sizes. Can someone take a picture of your front end to see if it looks like mine. I need to see the collards #4 and #3 on the diagram Left and Right side please.
Standard 2014

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Here's the RHS and LHS looking at the wheel from the front of the bike (2014 DLX):

 

[max]

JD, couple of things happened some time ago, someone had their wheel in backwarsd after it had new tires installed.
Looking at my frontwheel it has an arrow on the right hand side and one on each of the brake disks ( thanks popgun ), the tire also has an arrow on it, they should all point in the direction of rotation as you probably know.

The shaft is tightened up on the side with the axle bolt first ( is the spacer between the wheelbearings inside the hub in place? ) ( in my opinion just enough so the inner race of the wheel bearings do not spin ), then the two allen bolt clamps done up on that side ( right side in my case ) and FINALLY the other side has the two clamp-bolts done up in that order, otherwise the shaft and the front forks can be mis- aligned and bind up.
The space between the bearing seal and the forks is 10mm on the right and 9.5mm on the left, my wheel spins without any friction from the disks or otherwise.

Without taking the spacers out i cannot remember if they were identical and i also like to put a little grease on the inside of the lip of the seal where it slides over the collars, it makes them last longer and keeps moisture out.

Your drawing is for the abs model, that could be different in the non-abs version.

What do you think is wrong with your wheel and what are you like with a camera if the problem persists?

Probably all known knowledge but i wanted to put it all on one page.

Thanks LR!

 

[jdvalero_imp]

Here's the RHS and LHS looking at the wheel from the front of the bike (2014 DLX):

Mine looks like that... exactly!....Thanks!

JD, couple of things happened some time ago, someone had their wheel in backwarsd after it had new tires installed.
Looking at my frontwheel it has an arrow on the right hand side and one on each of the brake disks ( thanks popgun ), the tire also has an arrow on it, they should all point in the direction of rotation as you probably know.

The shaft is tightened up on the side with the axle bolt first ( is the spacer between the wheelbearings inside the hub in place? ) ( in my opinion just enough so the inner race of the wheel bearings do not spin ), then the two allen bolt clamps done up on that side ( right side in my case ) and FINALLY the other side has the two clamp-bolts done up in that order, otherwise the shaft and the front forks can be mis- aligned and bind up.
The space between the bearing seal and the forks is 10mm on the right and 9.5mm on the left, my wheel spins without any friction from the disks or otherwise.

Without taking the spacers out i cannot remember if they were identical and i also like to put a little grease on the inside of the lip of the seal where it slides over the collars, it makes them last longer and keeps moisture out.

Your drawing is for the abs model, that could be different in the non-abs version.

What do you think is wrong with your wheel and what are you like with a camera if the problem persists?

Probably all known knowledge but i wanted to put it all on one page.

Thanks LR!

Did all of what you recommended on install. I do know that the tires and rims are directionals tires and rims
This is my third time around with the front tire...Changed thousand of tires all my life but this time I developed a "Click" right after and is bugging me that I can't find it. The only thing I can think about is a broken spring inside the fork. It only happens when taking off from a stand still.

 

[Cormanus]

On the non-ABS model, #3 is cheaper than #4 which makes me think it is smaller and aligns with my recollection that one is smaller than the other.

Given they're the same part numbers for the ABS, they're identical.

JDV is it one click or a click-click-click ... ?

 

[jimgl3_imp]

sitting on the bike the one on the right is longer just like in the diagram you posted. they drew it exaggerated so you can see it. it will only work the correct way, so you will know if you messed up.

 

[the Ferret]

Check bolts on calipers. A loose one could cause a click. Can you hear it when braking too?

 

[max]

#2 what ferret says, have you removed the calipers for this job or just spread the pads to give some room to move?
If so i always rotate the calipers in the direction of brake force so they rest against the limit of movement and are supported against rotation just before i tighten the two bolts, that way they are always perfectly aligned every time and don't make any noise.

Here is a clip that may be useful if the forks are not settled correctly, you don't have a fork brace do you?

It seems if you want to check the springs to screw the preload adjusters on the top of the fork legs out and see if the force is different between the two, if a spring is broken one should be easyer to turn than the other and the "click" sounds different with them in the "out" position.

 

[Ben70_imp]

Try coming to a stop without touching the front brake, then see if it does it. No click would seem to indicate a brake problem as outlined above.

Ben

 

[jdvalero_imp]

On the non-ABS model, #3 is cheaper than #4 which makes me think it is smaller and aligns with my recollection that one is smaller than the other.

Given they're the same part numbers for the ABS, they're identical.

JDV is it one click or a click-click-click ... ?

Cormanus is a one click noise. More like a mild Clack!

Check bolts on calipers. A loose one could cause a click. Can you hear it when braking too?

Ferret
I checked (Torqued) all bolts and nuts from Handle bar to pinch bolts at wheel axel.
It does not come out when stopping.

#2 what ferret says, have you removed the calipers for this job or just spread the pads to give some room to move?
If so i always rotate the calipers in the direction of brake force so they rest against the limit of movement and are supported against rotation just before i tighten the two bolts, that way they are always perfectly aligned every time and don't make any noise.

Here is a clip that may be useful if the forks are not settled correctly, you don't have a fork brace do you?

It seems if you want to check the springs to screw the preload adjusters on the top of the fork legs out and see if the force is different between the two, if a spring is broken one should be easyer to turn than the other and the "click" sounds different with them in the "out" position.

I removed the calipers and inserted a piece of wood to prevent them from closing accidentally then I slightly pry them open.after torquing the bolts I pumped the front brake lever repeatedly to pump the piston back out.
I do not have a fork brace
On the preload adjustment at the fork I have gone from total OUT (Three line showing on the screw) to complete in or bottom down (no lines showing).

nothing CLACK is still there.

 

[max]

JD, i walked around my bike and cannot come up with a suggestion, even if the head bearings were loose they still would not show up when riding away, with over 100 kg of weight on them they would simply not move.

Since it happens when you drive away i would start to suspect the drivetrain, i would start with swingarm sideways play on the centerstand, drive chain clearance and check if the rear brake assembly is correctly lined up over the notch and both rear brake pads are in the right place and one is not hanging outside it's notch.

Also the info about the "tick" is a bit sparse, can you hear it when the clutch is released or later on, what if the clutch is released very slow and careful?

Am also reminded to what popgun said; was the fault there before you did the repair? no? then its what you've done

 

[jdvalero_imp]

JD, i walked around my bike and cannot come up with a suggestion, even if the head bearings were loose they still would not show up when riding away, with over 100 kg of weight on them they would simply not move.

Since it happens when you drive away i would start to suspect the drivetrain, i would start with swingarm sideways play on the centerstand, drive chain clearance and check if the rear brake assembly is correctly lined up over the notch and both rear brake pads are in the right place and one is not hanging outside it's notch.

Also the info about the "tick" is a bit sparse, can you hear it when the clutch is released or later on, what if the clutch is released very slow and careful?

Am also reminded to what popgun said; was the fault there before you did the repair? no? then its what you've done

It got to be something on the front suspension....I just can seem to find where!!!!

 

[max]

"Right after the clutch is fully released"
Is the clutch handle lubricated with grease between the handle and the piston AND under the rubber piston seal?

Failing that i think it's video time.

 

[Ben70_imp]

Have you tried to create the click by unloading and loading the front suspension? Like bouncing the forks only with an upward lift on the bars first?
How about put the bike on the centerstand, weight the rear so you can spin the front tire, apply the brake, release, then spin the tire and repeat... just trying to re-create the clack to isolate it... Good luck!

Ben

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I pulled the front wheel off my '14 DLX this afternoon and confirm the long spacer goes on the rider's RHS and the short spacer goes on the rider's LHS.

 

[jdvalero_imp]

The Clack Click Clink was resolved. The problem was a misalignment of the chain and it seems like it was skipping a teeth or link when pulling out of first hard. I took both wheel off and checked the front sprocket and all is good now.

Thank you all for the Ideas and the concern trying to help out!!!

JD

 

[the Ferret]

Glad you got it figured out JD. I never would have thought of that

 

[jdvalero_imp]

Ok this is too funny.....

So the The Clickity Clack Click Clink came back on my bike....Around the shift lever. (This is one of the few times I go hating the bike) So naturally I was like Cartman in SWEAR-A-THON (South Park)...like what gives!!!!
So I started from the rear wheel. I loosen it up all the way forward and at this point the chain is dangling. Removed the shifter assembly from the engine and the took off the cover for the front sprocket remove the 5 bolts that hold the clutch piston and the second sprocket cover. At this point I removed the front sprocket carefully by moving the chain aside and removing the sprocket, when I removed the sprocket I felt something drop on the ground and when I looked down the was the culprit of the problem....

A DAM BUNGEE CORD HOOK END!!!!

I must off picked that up while driving down the road and it was not mine because this one had yellow bungee (Stuck inside the hook about 1/2" long)and I have never owned yellow bungee. Luckily no major damage was done. So put all the stuff back together, torqued everything greased the heck out of everything and went for a quick ride! All is good now. Sooooo smooth!!!! (This is one of the many times I go saying I love this bike)

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

^^^ The Japanese make a great CB1100, eh jdvalero?

 

[jdvalero_imp]

I love it more than any bike I owned....Including my old CB750 and GL1000