Foot Peg Feelers

Bokobob_imp said:
Mine got tangled up in my shoe laces, so I bought shoes with Velcro fasteners..However, sometimes my pant cuffs get caught on them so I plan to remove them..
Thank you, Bob! I've been riding around on this bike for over 2 1/2 yrs. and the whole time I've been wondering why my shoe laces seem to get caught on the CB11's peg, but not any other bike. I never made the connection between the feelers and the problem. I thought it was just the shape/location of the CB11's pegs.

I've gotten good at putting lowering my foot and moving it out whenever I feel that tug on my shoe. I think I'll be removing them.
 
Seriously I removed mine purely for asthetic reasons. Since I splay my feet a bit while riding, the edge of my riding boots will tell me when I have leaned over far enough.

Like Ptero, the fear of gravel rash prevents me from exploring the absolute outter limits of lean clearance and tire adhesion.

When I removed mine I did put a dab of axle grease up in the hole, in case I wanted to return the bungs, but it's probably long gone now.

 
My toes seems to touch before anything else. Accelerating around a corner this am the toe touched down as I was trying to get under the shifter to shift. That was a bit of a surprise! Didn't think I was pushing that much!
 
Tight left hander? Always shift up or down before entering a left hand turn...or after you've come out the other side
 
Pterodactyl_imp said:
EmptySea_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
They let you know when are are starting to drag parts :)

A number of members have removed them. IIRC Ferret removes them from all his bikes.
unless you've added a full Yoshimura exhaust. Then sometimes the ride-side header let's you know.
unless you've added a full Yoshimura exhaust. Then sometimes the ride-side header let's you know.
Whoa! Surely a couple of touchdowns and the header wall would be holed. Sounds expensive, and noisy.

Cheers
unless you've added a full Yoshimura exhaust. Then sometimes the ride-side header let's you know.
Whoa! Surely a couple of touchdowns and the header wall would be holed. Sounds expensive, and noisy.

Cheers
I suspect that my header hit was due to a mid-curve dip in the road combined with my front suspension being set a bit too soft. Plus it barely touched. It DID hit before the feeler, though.
 
Rboe_imp said:
My toes seems to touch before anything else. Accelerating around a corner this am the toe touched down as I was trying to get under the shifter to shift. That was a bit of a surprise! Didn't think I was pushing that much!
The ferret_imp said:
Tight left hander? Always shift up or down before entering a left hand turn...or after you've come out the other side
Rboe, that's good advice from Ferret. In any corner where there is a possibility that a decent lean angle will develop (that is you are pushing it) then a gear change while the bike is leaned well over is not advisable.

The CB is the first "upright" bike with any performance I have ever owned and I quickly found that my boot toes would touchdown before the pegs.

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This is not good for two reasons. Firstly, feeler bolts, at AUD3.75, are cheaper than Alpinestars. Secondly, I heard a story, perhaps apocryphal, of a rider's boot touching done and catching, with less than an optimum outcome for the boot, the bike and last but not least, the rather surprised rider. So put the toes on the peg before leaning the bike well over is something I have made a habit of.

Cheers
 
I was turning left from a stop (got the green arrow so I launched), mid turn I wanted to upshift to 2nd. :) If you squirt out of this turn it's easy to hit the next light on the green without speeding.

Now coming home, doing the right hand turn, there is a separate turn lane so I can pick the gear and power through without shifting; and I've learned to pick up my RH boot to avoid having it caught.

I ride with Sidi boots (they don't look that bad yet!) and they are not all that cheap either. In any event, looks like I do need to adjust my riding a tad.
 
Rboe_imp said:
I was turning left from a stop (got the green arrow so I launched), mid turn I wanted to upshift to 2nd. :) If you squirt out of this turn it's easy to hit the next light on the green without speeding.

Now coming home, doing the right hand turn, there is a separate turn lane so I can pick the gear and power through without shifting; and I've learned to pick up my RH boot to avoid having it caught.

I ride with Sidi boots (they don't look that bad yet!) and they are not all that cheap either. In any event, looks like I do need to adjust my riding a tad.
Probably teaching you to suck eggs here, but I went through this routine:

"Change gear or trail brake (if required), foot back, toe on peg, tip in."

Now it is habit.

Cheers.
 
If you've raced or attended track days, you will learn to put the balls of your feet on the pegs through the corners. Leaving your feet in one position on the pegs will not work. My feet change position many times during a ride. Cornering should be a deliberate but smooth transition...no jerky...lol.
 
I grew up with the old style the " Hailwood" style if you will. Mostly centered, knees and toes splayed using my toes as feelers, doing my trail braking and down shifting pre corner, wide apex (especially on blind corners), carefully and smoothly looking thru the corner, laying it over on my chosen line, rolling off the throttle just slightly, coasting through and smoothly rolling the throttle back on accelerating out the other side. Maximum smooth, minimum effort is my goal. I'm not racing, I'm riding at a pace that pleases me. There are riders that are faster than me, there are riders that are slower than me. Let them chosse whichever style works for them, and in the few years I have left I'll keep doing what has worked well enough for me for a long, long time.

 
In spite of my toe dragging, I have yet to touch down a peg feeler, even with the new lowered pegs. Not many areas in Arizona where the road is good enough to do so and where my pucker factor will allow it. :angel:
 
Each to his own I guess. Also some corners are different to others. If the throttle remains static as the corner is entered then the bike must slow down. Why? Same RPM but the effective diameter of the tyre decreases, therefore a few mph or kph are lost. Not a problem if you don't mind. When I tip in, assuming I'm happy with the entry point and entry speed, I increase throttle slightly to maintain the weight balance between front and rear and keep speed static. That is, to stop the front weighting up. Once I'm comfortable I may then increase throttle, but that is optional and only increases the "spirited" factor, nothing else. As Ferret rightly says, if you develop a style and it suites you, then there is no need to change unless you want to explore something else. Others who have a good level of expertise (like Ferret) are always worth listening to. In the early nineties I got my hands on a first model Fireblade (CBR 900RR), the first bike with any real performance I had ridden. It was a fair handful for me and, in retrospect, I reckon I was lucky to survive the first week on the road. I happened to run across a police motorcyclist who followed me around some roads (socially, not on business) and after a long talk changed my riding style completely and for the better. In the same manner an article on trail braking, that this forum pointed me to, gave me some food for thought. At 71 years young I still love to learn.

As far as touching down in corners goes I prefer feelers to boots for the reasons I mentioned in a previous post. I should have mentioned for Rboe's understanding that when you start to stand the bike up again to exit a corner then, sure, put your boot back to arch on the peg to facilitate gear changes, as normally it will be an up shift requiring the boot under the shifter. If leaned well over, to where a touchdown is likely, then an up shift (or down shift for that matter) is probably not a very good idea as, if you don't get it exactly right with no weight shift between front and rear, there is a likelihood of some interesting oscillations developing. If my boot, or peg, is dragging then I don't think a gear change is appropriate for my skill level. As far as the right boot is concerned, if braking is required much the same principal applies; if you are leaned over to the point where something is dragging, then be careful. Better to have entered at the right speed. If running wide is the problem then don't brake, fix your sight on the right line and lean the bike to achieve that line. Rolling off abruptly is also not a great idea at this stage as it weights the front up which may induce the aforementioned interesting oscillations. When the pegs are on the ground there is still plenty (well a little more anyway) left as the pedal pivots up and the line will tighten up. If hard braking in a big lean is required then I guess its not going to be a good day and the difference between toe or arch on the peg is probably insignificant. :)

Cheers.
 
The ferret_imp said:
I grew up with the old style the " Hailwood" style if you will. Mostly centered, knees and toes splayed using my toes as feelers, doing my trail braking and down shifting pre corner, wide apex (especially on blind corners), carefully and smoothly looking thru the corner, laying it over on my chosen line, rolling off the throttle just slightly, coasting through and smoothly rolling the throttle back on accelerating out the other side. Maximum smooth, minimum effort is my goal. I'm not racing, I'm riding at a pace that pleases me. There are riders that are faster than me, there are riders that are slower than me. Let them chosse whichever style works for them, and in the few years I have left I'll keep doing what has worked well enough for me for a long, long time.



One of the best looking riding pictures of the cb1100 :thumbsup:
There are far to few riding/rolling pictures of our bikes imo :dodgy:
 
WEll, I took mine off...I hadn't realized I didn't have to cut them off with a Dremel or something, and was pleasantly surprised that it took just a moment with a wrench..
 
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