dsinned_imp
Been there
Thread starter
You're all set. It looks good there!
EOT meter for OEM oil cooler
- Thread starter dsinned_imp
- Start date
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
The hard wired one you mentioned might be nice, but in my experience with tach/hour meters similar to this, the batteries last many years. And I think it can be changed as there were screws on the back of the meter.
dsinned_imp
Been there
Thread starter
The TTV also is self powered by its own internal battery. The connection to the bike's battery is for controlling a fan, but also can be monitored as well.
Elipten_imp
Road warrior
Appears to be missing an amp meter, altimeter, compass, and humidity gauge. Then it would be fully instrumented.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
My phone will do a couple of those things 
. 
. Elipten_imp
Road warrior
True enough
Roadwarrior_imp
First service completed
Engine oil needs to see temps. regularly (but not constant) above 212. This is needed to evaporate the moisture in the oil created by internal combustion. If it is not evaporated it will mix with other chemicals created by internal combustion to create acid, which will erode seals, bearings,
rings, cyl. bore, etc. Most oils start breaking down at about 275 degrees,
but a good synthetic oil is good to about 350 degrees. Probably why the warning light is set for 340.
rings, cyl. bore, etc. Most oils start breaking down at about 275 degrees,
but a good synthetic oil is good to about 350 degrees. Probably why the warning light is set for 340.
flynrider
Road warrior
Although the boiling temperature of water is 212F, your oil doesn't need to get quite that hot. Moisture in the crankcase will begin to vaporize at around 160F - 170F, and will exit through the crankcase breather.
That said, I strongly agree with all of reasons why oil needs to get hot enough to purge moisture. Starting a cold air cooled engine will send plenty of acidic moisture into the crankcase, due to the cold ring gap common to these engines (the gap closes as the engine warms up). Numerous cold starts without reaching normal operating temps will eventually result in a corrosive, white colored goo in the crankcase. If you ever see that, it's a clue that your oil is not getting hot enough.
That said, I strongly agree with all of reasons why oil needs to get hot enough to purge moisture. Starting a cold air cooled engine will send plenty of acidic moisture into the crankcase, due to the cold ring gap common to these engines (the gap closes as the engine warms up). Numerous cold starts without reaching normal operating temps will eventually result in a corrosive, white colored goo in the crankcase. If you ever see that, it's a clue that your oil is not getting hot enough.
HillCountryRider_imp
First service completed
Just curious how you know the High Oil Temperature Indicator is set to come on for 340F? Is it in service manual specs? ThanksRoadwarrior_imp said:
G'day HillCountryRider and welcome to the forum. Why not pop over to the New Members Section, tell us all about yourself and show us some pictures of your bike(s)? We're desperate for entertainment around here.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Yes HillCountry, it is in the service manual.
darkangel_imp
First service completed
@popgun: could you please tell me what kit of Trail Tech temperature meter you bought to install on your bike? The link on the first post didn't work. Thanks!
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Darkangle,
I'm out of town for Christmas but l'll look through my emails and see if the order invoice is there. I usually try to save them. If not I'll let you know and either look at the paper copy when I get home next week or maybe I can look on the website and let you know.
I'm out of town for Christmas but l'll look through my emails and see if the order invoice is there. I usually try to save them. If not I'll let you know and either look at the paper copy when I get home next week or maybe I can look on the website and let you know.
darkangel_imp
First service completed
@popgun: thanks and enjoy your holiday!
flynrider
Road warrior
The oil temp light comes on at around 340 degrees according to the service manual. That's a bit high in my opinion.736cc_imp said:
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
DarkAngel, (sorry I spelled your name wrong above, but like Cormanus said, I can't spel 
)
I found the invoice. It says I ordered the "TTO Temp Meter-Silver-8mm Fin Sensor. Sku 72-EF8" Cost was $42.95 plus $10.02 S&H for $52.97 total.
The 8mm sensor fits good. I tried cutting some plastic pieces to test before ordering, and a 10mm would fit, but tight and the the plastic would bend some. So it didn't really fit. 8mm fits fine. 9mm or maybe 9.5mm would be perfect, but they don't have those
)I found the invoice. It says I ordered the "TTO Temp Meter-Silver-8mm Fin Sensor. Sku 72-EF8" Cost was $42.95 plus $10.02 S&H for $52.97 total.
The 8mm sensor fits good. I tried cutting some plastic pieces to test before ordering, and a 10mm would fit, but tight and the the plastic would bend some. So it didn't really fit. 8mm fits fine. 9mm or maybe 9.5mm would be perfect, but they don't have those
flynrider
Road warrior
Sorry, I was going from memory. That was actually from a Honda Technical Bulletin on the CB1100. Ferret posted it back in Nov. of '13 :curlyjoe_imp said:
FYI: Honda Service Bulletin on CB 1100
It states that the sensor trips at 172C / 342F .
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
I'm pretty sure its in the service manual somewhere. I'll have to check when I get home from Christmas vacation. I knew I should have brought my manual
Since it will set a fault, you might try looking in the fuel section where all the fault codes are listed. I think it is in there.
Since it will set a fault, you might try looking in the fuel section where all the fault codes are listed. I think it is in there.