PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Maybe the bike caught the Cormanusvirus.
Electrical problem maybe?
- Thread starter Cormanus
- Start date
max
Road warrior
You mean coughing and spluttering Josh?
Just by coincidence but very timely i watched Zam's channel last night and he fixed an interesting fault with a washer...............what?
Fault finding at 03:18. und deutsch gesprochen, jawohl.
Could be Cormanus has found it, let's hope so.
Just by coincidence but very timely i watched Zam's channel last night and he fixed an interesting fault with a washer...............what?
Fault finding at 03:18. und deutsch gesprochen, jawohl.
Could be Cormanus has found it, let's hope so.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
max_imp said:
Well played Sir, well played...
SportsterDoc
Road warrior
Yes, but not many miles second week, due to family events.Cormanus_imp said:Battery was reading 12.75 or so and 14.3 running. Then a tad over 13, so I assume the battery and charging system are OK. The positive terminal screw was a little loose, so I’ve tightened it.
I started the bike with the meter connected and it read a 10.03.
Have to take it for a ride now.
Enjoying the Ryker, Doc?
Just having it in the garage, knowing that freedom is there, is a comfort.
Made use of my wife's sewing machine and serger to make a custom tool roll out of denim: 10, 13, 15 mm stubby combo wrenches, Dynaplug, T10-T40 Torx L wrenches, 3-8 MM L wrenches. Probably no need for 65 mm (not a typo) wheel nut socket. Roll is not much bigger than my fist and joins the super compact German made foot pump in the glove box with room left for a couple water bottles, etc.
Ordered 4 black oxide footman loops for rear fender to strap on jacket and/or small duffel bag, with lashing straps.
Made a small contribution to Spyder/Ryker forum, but do not expect much further activity:
Service parts, prices, sources
Back to your issue(s), considering Max's German thread, best to check BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables.
2007 up Sportsters (first year of EFI) had issues with corroded** harness/chassis grounds, in addition to battery terminals and battery ground to motor/trans.
**Corrosion was internal threads in trans for harness ground bolt.
Thread cleaning and use of copper based (conductive) anti-seize solved the issues.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Hallelujah :banana:SportsterDoc_imp said:Yes, but not many miles second week, due to family events.Cormanus_imp said:Battery was reading 12.75 or so and 14.3 running. Then a tad over 13, so I assume the battery and charging system are OK. The positive terminal screw was a little loose, so I’ve tightened it.
I started the bike with the meter connected and it read a 10.03.
Have to take it for a ride now.
Enjoying the Ryker, Doc?
Just having it in the garage, knowing that freedom is there, is a comfort.
Made use of my wife's sewing machine and serger to make a custom tool roll out of denim: 10, 13, 15 mm stubby combo wrenches, Dynaplug, T10-T40 Torx L wrenches, 3-8 MM L wrenches. Probably no need for 65 mm (not a typo) wheel nut socket. Roll is not much bigger than my fist and joins the super compact German made foot pump in the glove box with room left for a couple water bottles, etc.
Ordered 4 black oxide footman loops for rear fender to strap on jacket and/or small duffel bag, with lashing straps.
Made a small contribution to Spyder/Ryker forum, but do not expect much further activity:
Service parts, prices, sources
Back to your issue(s), considering Max's German thread, best to check BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables.
2007 up Sportsters (first year of EFI) had issues with corroded** harness/chassis grounds, in addition to battery terminals and battery ground to motor/trans.
**Corrosion was internal threads in trans for harness ground bolt.
Thread cleaning and use of copper based (conductive) anti-seize solved the issues.
Thread starter
Excellent diagnosis, sir.PowerDubs_imp said:
Excellent!SportsterDoc_imp said:Yes, but not many miles second week, due to family events.Cormanus_imp said:Battery was reading 12.75 or so and 14.3 running. Then a tad over 13, so I assume the battery and charging system are OK. The positive terminal screw was a little loose, so I’ve tightened it.
I started the bike with the meter connected and it read a 10.03.
Have to take it for a ride now.
Enjoying the Ryker, Doc?
Just having it in the garage, knowing that freedom is there, is a comfort.
Made use of my wife's sewing machine and serger to make a custom tool roll out of denim: 10, 13, 15 mm stubby combo wrenches, Dynaplug, T10-T40 Torx L wrenches, 3-8 MM L wrenches. Probably no need for 65 mm (not a typo) wheel nut socket. Roll is not much bigger than my fist and joins the super compact German made foot pump in the glove box with room left for a couple water bottles, etc.
Ordered 4 black oxide footman loops for rear fender to strap on jacket and/or small duffel bag, with lashing straps.
Made a small contribution to Spyder/Ryker forum, but do not expect much further activity:
Service parts, prices, sources
Back to your issue(s), considering Max's German thread, best to check BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables.
2007 up Sportsters (first year of EFI) had issues with corroded** harness/chassis grounds, in addition to battery terminals and battery ground to motor/trans.
**Corrosion was internal threads in trans for harness ground bolt.
Thread cleaning and use of copper based (conductive) anti-seize solved the issues.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
I think the only thing that prevents Cormanusvirus is Irish whiskey. Lets just say I’m keeping safe right now. :angel:
Thread starter
Max, consistently 4.41 volts with the stand down and 0 volts up. No suggestion of intermittent contact when up.
max
Road warrior
Actually it's the LOW reading we are concerned with, the 5 volts happens when the contacts are open which is when the engine is stopped.
The low ( 0.005 v ) reading is the important one which gives some understanding of the contact surfaces, try at least 30 times to see if there are any deviations in this reading, it is not important what the low voltage reading is as long as it is consistently the same every time.
Also don't forget to wiggle the switch wires on the bike to see if there are any bad or broken parts in the cabling when looking at the low ( 0.005 v ) value.
Was the terminal on your battery as loose as the one in the video?
You're doing pretty good so far chief
The low ( 0.005 v ) reading is the important one which gives some understanding of the contact surfaces, try at least 30 times to see if there are any deviations in this reading, it is not important what the low voltage reading is as long as it is consistently the same every time.
Also don't forget to wiggle the switch wires on the bike to see if there are any bad or broken parts in the cabling when looking at the low ( 0.005 v ) value.
Was the terminal on your battery as loose as the one in the video?
You're doing pretty good so far chief
Thread starter
The screw in the top of the terminal had started working loose. I suspect it probably was as at least as loose as the one in the video.
My meter consistently showed 0.00 for the lower reading and I did wiggle things about a bit and it made no difference. However, I'll have another go tomorrow and see what happens. I should also be able to take it for a run and see whether tightening the terminal has fixed it.
My meter consistently showed 0.00 for the lower reading and I did wiggle things about a bit and it made no difference. However, I'll have another go tomorrow and see what happens. I should also be able to take it for a run and see whether tightening the terminal has fixed it.
max
Road warrior
Ok, maybe i should have also told you what his symptoms were just in case your technical German was not up to scratch;
Apart from the faulty generator repair ( Zam did not touch the battery during that time ) the bike started to splutter and the warning light came on, the rider was able to limp it into Zam's workshop with a "check engine" warning light.
That usually means there is a code "set" in the e.c.u. so Zam connected the healtech diagnostic software on his pc with an extended usb cable to the diagnostic connector on the Honda only to find out no code has been set but the battery voltage showed an unusual 13 volts without the engine running which is not possible, so then he went back to basics and did the very important visual inspection.
That is when he found the problem with the battery terminal bolt which was tight but too long for the thread inside the terminal, no amount of electrical testing would have pointed to this fault, it even started the bike many times, the battery and connections must be ok for that to happen, right?
In a previous job we had a Scottish electrical inspector checking all the switchboards we manufactured, one day he walked over to me and said " have a look at this, can you see what's wrong with this connection? "
Initially all looked ok to me until he pulled the cable out of the big crimp lug, it had been perfectly covered in heat-shrink but he spotted something did not look right, the two cables next to it were crimped normally but this one was not..........
He prevented a switchboard fire that day and all electrical tests showed no faults; experience
Apart from the faulty generator repair ( Zam did not touch the battery during that time ) the bike started to splutter and the warning light came on, the rider was able to limp it into Zam's workshop with a "check engine" warning light.
That usually means there is a code "set" in the e.c.u. so Zam connected the healtech diagnostic software on his pc with an extended usb cable to the diagnostic connector on the Honda only to find out no code has been set but the battery voltage showed an unusual 13 volts without the engine running which is not possible, so then he went back to basics and did the very important visual inspection.
That is when he found the problem with the battery terminal bolt which was tight but too long for the thread inside the terminal, no amount of electrical testing would have pointed to this fault, it even started the bike many times, the battery and connections must be ok for that to happen, right?
In a previous job we had a Scottish electrical inspector checking all the switchboards we manufactured, one day he walked over to me and said " have a look at this, can you see what's wrong with this connection? "
Initially all looked ok to me until he pulled the cable out of the big crimp lug, it had been perfectly covered in heat-shrink but he spotted something did not look right, the two cables next to it were crimped normally but this one was not..........
He prevented a switchboard fire that day and all electrical tests showed no faults; experience
Thread starter
Again, thank you, Max. My German may as well not exist and Google Translate does not work well on the spoken word. 
Thread starter
Update: Max, flipping the side stand up and down consistently returned 0.00v in the up position. I got no change jiggling the wires either. Next step: test ride.
max
Road warrior
Cheers Cormanus, looks like you were on the right track with that terminal.
Thread starter
Went for a most agreeable 70km ride in the late autumn sun. No electrical problem. Thanks all for your help. And generous instruction.
Hi Max. I just wanted to say that you have always been a tremendous help to everybody on this forum. I know you sold your bike, but you continue to visit this incredible forum and provide expert advice to all. I just wanted to tell you thank you from ALL of the forum members, and I hope you continue to support us for a really, really long time.
Thread starter
Hear, hear. Except it was SportsterDoc who sold his bike, Dave. He’s just bought a Ryker though.
