PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Makes sense. Good luck!
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
early 80's style cb1100f signal conversion...hard?
- Thread starter misterprofessionality
- Start date
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
oK, NEW PLAN.
For a time, I was considering completely changing my headlight bracket, so that I could more freely relocate my turn signals, which would allow me to mount a new set of period-accurate signals to the bike. See the example:
These come from Doremi, so they're modern, but they're really faithful reproductions with a simpler mounting system than the originals. The problem with these types of signals is that they're actually much longer than the stock signals, causing them to stick out way too far, even if they could be mounted on the existing signal stays.
So, I decided that the best approach might be to modify the original headlight/signal stay so that I can mount the signals tighter to the centerline of the bike, compensating for the increased length. the old '82 CB750F had the signals mounted right on the side of the forks, so this should be faithful to the original. Thing is, i'm still not confident or skilled enough to start hacking away at my own headlight/signal stays, and to do so would be a really bad idea with my limited tools and knowledge. I've decided it's a small price to pay to simply buy an extra OEM stay from honda and modify it off the bike.
I'll start by cutting the existing signal stays right off, as shown:
this eliminates the excess length and pulls the mounting position in tight to the forks. However, it also kind of eliminiates he mounting position altogether, leaving a gaping hole where it used to be.
from there, I start to build a new mounting base for the Doremi signals. This is where it gets tricky, because as i've said over and over i have no idea what i'm doing. I'm thinking i would build it by stacking steel washers and hard black rubber together to make a solid flat base into which I can drill holes and run the bolts. like so (very rough sketch):
once that's altogether and the holes drilled for the mounting bolt and the wires, I can seat the Doremi mounting stem into it, bolt it down, and fit the signal onto the stem. bingo. new signals. The rear signals will be a heck of a lot easier, so I won't even go there on this post.
so, am I crazy? will this work?
For a time, I was considering completely changing my headlight bracket, so that I could more freely relocate my turn signals, which would allow me to mount a new set of period-accurate signals to the bike. See the example:
These come from Doremi, so they're modern, but they're really faithful reproductions with a simpler mounting system than the originals. The problem with these types of signals is that they're actually much longer than the stock signals, causing them to stick out way too far, even if they could be mounted on the existing signal stays.
So, I decided that the best approach might be to modify the original headlight/signal stay so that I can mount the signals tighter to the centerline of the bike, compensating for the increased length. the old '82 CB750F had the signals mounted right on the side of the forks, so this should be faithful to the original. Thing is, i'm still not confident or skilled enough to start hacking away at my own headlight/signal stays, and to do so would be a really bad idea with my limited tools and knowledge. I've decided it's a small price to pay to simply buy an extra OEM stay from honda and modify it off the bike.
I'll start by cutting the existing signal stays right off, as shown:
this eliminates the excess length and pulls the mounting position in tight to the forks. However, it also kind of eliminiates he mounting position altogether, leaving a gaping hole where it used to be.
from there, I start to build a new mounting base for the Doremi signals. This is where it gets tricky, because as i've said over and over i have no idea what i'm doing. I'm thinking i would build it by stacking steel washers and hard black rubber together to make a solid flat base into which I can drill holes and run the bolts. like so (very rough sketch):
once that's altogether and the holes drilled for the mounting bolt and the wires, I can seat the Doremi mounting stem into it, bolt it down, and fit the signal onto the stem. bingo. new signals. The rear signals will be a heck of a lot easier, so I won't even go there on this post.
so, am I crazy? will this work?
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
lol, who knows how long it will take me to figure out how to make this work. at this point i'm worried less about how great it will look and more about whether or not I can even do it.
You might do better to see whether you can get a single piece of aluminum tubing you can cut to size rather than using a pile of washers. I don’t know if it’s possible though.
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
Your drawings are very good but in reality it might be more involved than you think. Good Luck !
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
Thanks Cormanus. I could get behind that, and I bet i could find some aluminum tubing, but here's the problem:Cormanus_imp said:
1) the signal stem isn't actually round or "tube" shaped at the base. it's kind of an oblong elliptical shape. getting an aluminum tube shaped exactly like that could be very difficult.
2) Forget the shape for a moment, how would I fasten a section of aluminum tube to the inside of the signal stay once it's been cut off? i would need something more like an aluminum "puck", short and flat, with caps on both ends so that I have something to run fasteners through.
Thanks for the vote of confidence Guth, but less an "idea" and more a hairbrained jury rigged hack job. MIZ would do a lot better to simply sell a replacement steering stem bottom piece with the appropriate mounting positions for the signals, the original '80 goldwings and '82 CB750F's that used these signals had the signals mounted right on the side of the steering stem bottom. That's not an option for me because i have to draw the line somewhere, lol. i'm just trying to get my signals close to that position without re-engineering my entire frontend.Guth_imp said:
I'm dead certain that it's more involved than I think, otherwise i wouldn't be on here second-guessing myself, i'd already be cuttingHoutman_imp said:
Sometimes having no confidence in myself is a huge advantage and keeps me out of trouble.
I was assuming you could find the right shaped tubing that you could attach a rubber mount to and run a bolt up the middle.
An alternative: try to find some of the original parts on eBay and cannibalize them?
An alternative: try to find some of the original parts on eBay and cannibalize them?
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
hm...i don't have any confidence that i'm going to find any tubing with this specific of a shape, but you've give me an idea. a bit of extra heat from my trusty torch, and aluminum tube of sufficient size, a vice, and some patience might allow me to partially flatten the tube, resulting in the right shape. it's a regular enough shape that i could see getting it out of simply deforming a regular round tube. from there I could cut slices out of the tube for each side, since it needs to be extremely shallow anyhow.
So, are you guessing that the rubber mount on its own, without the tube, just won't be stable enough?
As for original parts, i've done entirely too much research on that. the original signals mounted directly to the sides of the lower steering stem bridge. the steering stem was specifically engineered with bolt holes for that purpose. using the original parts would see me replacing my steering stem i think.
So, are you guessing that the rubber mount on its own, without the tube, just won't be stable enough?
As for original parts, i've done entirely too much research on that. the original signals mounted directly to the sides of the lower steering stem bridge. the steering stem was specifically engineered with bolt holes for that purpose. using the original parts would see me replacing my steering stem i think.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
For someone that is afraid to turn a wrench, you sure can draw pretty computer pictures. 
Why not make 2 cuts? Hack off the mount as you wanted, but then take that same mount you just removed and cut a slice of the 'end cap' to reuse the mounting face. Stick a piece of rubber between if you don't want to rub upon assembly. This seems to be a quick easy solution and would allow you to use your existing parts.
Once cut off, use a bench grinder or a least a dremel to smooth and prep the surface.
Why not make 2 cuts? Hack off the mount as you wanted, but then take that same mount you just removed and cut a slice of the 'end cap' to reuse the mounting face. Stick a piece of rubber between if you don't want to rub upon assembly. This seems to be a quick easy solution and would allow you to use your existing parts.
Once cut off, use a bench grinder or a least a dremel to smooth and prep the surface.
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
Dremel I have, thankfully. yours is not a bad idea. The only problem I can see with it is that I would only be using the last maybe 5/8" of the mount that I cut off, and that part is no longer shaped like the base of the mount. it deforms from a kind of squashed oval to a more circular shape at the end. since it's steel, I wouldn't be able to reshape it. i'm afraid if i use an improperly shaped bit like that there will be ugly gaps in the whole assembly. Maybe if there was some way to fill it...
Aluminum however.....I can mess with that. As you say, I can't turn a wrench, but i can light a torch, and I can solder/braze. some skills I picked up in totally unrelated fields. I'm currently cooking up a plan to assemble a new, correctly shaped mount out of aluminum and rubber, as was suggested by Cormanus. if that part of the plan works out, I can paint it with some sort of black automotive paint, and use the same to seal up the raw cut edge on the headlight stay.
Once I get my replacement Headlight Stay (already on order!) i'll know a lot more about whether or not my rough plan will work. when I do, i'll post it here before taking the hacksaw out.
Aluminum however.....I can mess with that. As you say, I can't turn a wrench, but i can light a torch, and I can solder/braze. some skills I picked up in totally unrelated fields. I'm currently cooking up a plan to assemble a new, correctly shaped mount out of aluminum and rubber, as was suggested by Cormanus. if that part of the plan works out, I can paint it with some sort of black automotive paint, and use the same to seal up the raw cut edge on the headlight stay.
Once I get my replacement Headlight Stay (already on order!) i'll know a lot more about whether or not my rough plan will work. when I do, i'll post it here before taking the hacksaw out.
peterbaron
Road warrior
6 thread pages, 52 posts for few wires of one set motorcycle turn signals =:huh:
I like this classic one: two versus four = easy, NO DTRL
Sorry, but this is kindergarten tutoring, not a project.
Should call Nicola Tesla...might be long distance, land line, not cell..
I like this classic one: two versus four = easy, NO DTRL
Sorry, but this is kindergarten tutoring, not a project.
Should call Nicola Tesla...might be long distance, land line, not cell..
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
oh, peter, keep reading. i figured out the electrical connection first. the problem is no longer electrical, it's structural. I've been trying to figure out a way to mount the signals, not connect them. if you know a way, do make a suggestion.
peterbaron
Road warrior
Need two pics: lights = one side and mounting base = the other ...so your problem is how to link them together mechanically, correct??
What year CB??
What year CB??
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
Would using hand signals even be easier …..
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
Peter, no, the basic obstacle is the OEM signals use a very different mount than the signals i intend to use. It's what you call a "Square peg in a round hole" situation. They are also much longer than the OEM signals, so I need to bring the mounting position closer to the body in order to compensate. That's why i'm considering different ways to retrofit and relocate the signal mounting positions.peterbaron_imp said:Need two pics: lights = one side and mounting base = the other ...so your problem is how to link them together mechanically, correct??
What year CB??
i'm at work at the moment, but I can provide you with a few more pictures in the next few days. the new signals should arrive next week.
Not a smart way to ride.Houtman_imp said:
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
I see a lot of one finger signals while driving/riding these days.
( no , not in my direction I have to add )
( no , not in my direction I have to add )
misterprofessionality
Road warrior
Thread starter
Hot dog, progress!
First, I've got a spare headlight/signal stay and cut off the original signal post. Then, made a new bracket from scratch modeled on the shape and design of the original '82 signal bracket. All it took was me some aluminum, a hacksaw, dremel, and a torch!
After that I got together a couple of appropriately sized bolts, and slipped on the reproduction '82 signals and voila! I still have to paint over the rough hewn edges with rust guard and matte black paint, but it's looking really promising. Next step will be to see if my local shop can give me a quote for swapping out the stays.
This way I can get my period-correct signals without damaging any of my original parts.
First, I've got a spare headlight/signal stay and cut off the original signal post. Then, made a new bracket from scratch modeled on the shape and design of the original '82 signal bracket. All it took was me some aluminum, a hacksaw, dremel, and a torch!
After that I got together a couple of appropriately sized bolts, and slipped on the reproduction '82 signals and voila! I still have to paint over the rough hewn edges with rust guard and matte black paint, but it's looking really promising. Next step will be to see if my local shop can give me a quote for swapping out the stays.
This way I can get my period-correct signals without damaging any of my original parts.
Nice work MrP. Good on you for persisting.