Drive chain replacement time, probably.

[Rolls_imp]

My final drive chain has some kinks that seem to be persistent. Maybe I need to clean the chain better, or maybe it's failing. Has 26,000 miles on it. It's not very stretched - seems to have at least 60% of it's life left by that measure. Not something I want to take a risk with.

Do any of the old pro's here have any advice?

[url=https://flic.kr/p/FFaV3y]image by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/55838481@N07/]cbiz_wiz, on Flickr

 

[redbirds_imp]

Kinks or tight links are a sign that the chain is spent and needs replacement. Over 26K seems quite reasonable chain life. Best replace the sprockets also.

 

[the Ferret]

wow is that chain clean.

 

[DAC]

That is one kinky set of links. Redbirds is right. Replace it. DID X-ring and new sprockets.

 

[Rolls_imp]

DID X-ring and new sprockets, it is, then. Not too hard to install, I hope? Guess I'll have to get a chain rivet tool?

 

[Jim21680_imp]

Alright, I want to know what your chain maintenance routine has been. That chain looks ridiculously clean, but I can clearly see the link bind-up where the chain meets the bottom of the rear sprocket. What were your habits?

That said, 26k is a good lifespan for a chain & sprockets. For a relatively cheap replacement...it's a good peace of mind for the next 25 thousand miles.

 

[Pauley]

Hey rolls. Do the sprockets show any wear? Hooking and the like?


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[Rolls_imp]

Pauley- Sprocket teeth look pretty good. I'd bet on non-visible wear, though. I'll change 'em out to be safe.

Jim - maintenance was frequent lubes and thorough flush with lube, but infrequent cleaning with chain cleaner. Probably relied on the flushing with lube too much. Maybe more dunking in kerosene would help.

Environment - very little rain, occasional wash, always garaged

Riding - many highway miles, but also many twisties and a couple of track days. No sand or dirt. Coastal rides, where salt air might possibly play some role.

That's all I can think of.

 

[kennyw]

I'm at 24k miles and probably not far behind you. I never remember to keep it lubed and ride in all weather. I did one hail Mary deep clean and lube at 20k to stretch things out a little.

 

[Rolls_imp]

For chain and sprockets replacement, are there any other miscellaneous parts I'll need, like new bolts, washers, seals or so forth? Is it a 110 link length?

Hoping to order order a 530 D.I.D. X-ring chain and sprockets today, so I can tackle this job asap.

 

[Pauley]

I think you just need a chain rivet staking tool and you'd be good to go. No other special tools that I can think of. You might need a cheater bar for the nut on the driven sprocket.


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[Rocky_imp]

I'm as anal as they come when it comes to lube and chain maintenance.
26/27,000 miles is about average for me when it comes to changing chains and sprockets and I don't do much foul weather riding.
I'm a big fan of the D.I.D. X-ring chains.

 

[Randy B]

I think you just need a chain rivet staking tool and you'd be good to go. No other special tools that I can think of. You might need a cheater bar for the nut on the driven sprocket.


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I have impact stuff in my garage if need be.

 

[Rolls_imp]

Thanks, Pauley. I'll pick up the Stockton chain tool at Cycle Gear while it's still on sale for 40 clams. Happy to share it, too, when time comes.

Thanks, Rocky. Know I could've been a little bit better on chain care, but I was pretty good, considering the rain-free conditions around here. Your info eases my conscience. I probably didn't waste too much chain life, but I'll improve my maintenance a bit, especially taking time to lube after a good ride, when the chain is warm.

Thanks, Randy! Good to know, in case my breaker bar isn't up to the task.

Thanks!

 

[Lord Popgun]

When staking the master link, the manual says the diameter of the staked area is 5.50-5.80mm ( 0.217-0.228in) and if there are any cracks replace the master link, O-rings and plate.

 

[Rolls_imp]

Thanks, popgun! Haven't done a rivet link before, so much appreciated.

 

[Lord Popgun]

I have never done it either. And I forgot to put that the manual also says after you put in the master link and put the plate on it, "Measure the master link pin length projected from the plate. Standard length: 1.3-1.5mm (0.05-0.06in.) then stake the pins and measure as in my last post.

It also says to install the master link from the inside of the drive chain and install the plate with the identification number facing the outside.

And, as long as you have the chain off, you might as well check the chain slider and replace if necessary. It has wear marks, so you can just look at it.

 

[DAC]

Good luck!

 

[Rolls_imp]

Thanks, popgun!

Looked at several OEM parts suppliers and was just about to order, but I couldn't easily get any assurance that they had all parts in stock and they would arrive in less than a week, which was important to me (new tires and new brake pads also incoming this week).

Called sprocketcenter.com, down in SoCal and they've got JT steel sprockets and a D.I.D. X-ring chain on its way up to me for Friday arrival. Thanks to DAC for tip on those guys. He's used them before.

 

[flynrider]

Thanks, popgun!

Looked at several OEM parts suppliers and was just about to order, but I couldn't easily get any assurance that they had all parts in stock and they would arrive in less than a week, which was important to me (new tires and new brake pads also incoming this week).

Called sprocketcenter.com, down in SoCal and they've got JT steel sprockets and a D.I.D. X-ring chain on its way up to me for Friday arrival. Thanks to DAC for tip on those guys. He's used them before.

Cycle Gear still has that staking tool on sale for $40? I bought one about a year and a half ago for the same price

It's a good tool, but you have to work slowly and carefully. Especially if you are using the chain breaker to get the old chain off. Too much force, too quickly and the tool head will snap. Same advice goes for the staking tool. Slowly tighten it down, then pull it off and measure, repeat until the rivet head measures the proper diameter. And lastly, don't forget to lube and install the X-rings on the master link before staking.

Good choice on the JT sprockets and the D.I.D. X-ring chain. I've been using that combo for years on all my bikes with no complaints.