Dodgy Kill Switch

redbirds_imp

Road warrior
Thread starter
While riding home today I momentarily released the throttle as I slowed for a stop. My index finger brushed the kill switch lightly and the motor quit. I checked the switch and it was in the on position. I switched off the ignition, then back on. No lights on the panel. I then switched the kill switch to off and then on, all lights back on and the motor started. I then brushed the kill switch again lightly with a finger tip and the motor cut off. Resetting the switch got things going again and I was on my way. Anyone noticed this on their CB before?

Personally I've never felt the need for these devices in the first place and in 50 years of riding have never had the need of one.
 
Haven't noticed anything like that and I'm afraid to go try it. Like you, I've never had the need for the switch. All it's ever done is cause me confusion and frustration after cleaning the bike and not realizing that I had tripped the switch. Took forever to figure out why the bike wouldn't start! Another proud moment in my motorcycling history.
 
Checked both of my bikes both the same. I rocked the kill switch slowly to off at about half way kill them! Rocked it back from halfway off to on both ran.
 
Never touch that switch so I have no idea if its sensitive or not? Good to know though in case it ever won't start.
 
The ferret_imp said:
Never touch that switch so I have no idea if its sensitive or not? Good to know though in case it ever won't start.
Same here; good to know, but I never use the kill switch either.
 
One of my bikes is a '67 Triumph Bonneville chopper. One day when I cranked it up coming off a light, the throttle stuck wide open. I managed to shut her down with the key but home I went and added a kill switch. Fortunately I've not had to use it but I'm sure glad it's there.
 
I think you should use, or at least work the switch from time to time just to prevent the chance of corrosion build up.

I don't think you describe a dodgy switch as much as its a sensitive switch. That might be a good thing someday in a panic situation where you want it to shut down right away. Just learn to keep your frickin fingers off the thing and you'll be fine! ;)
 
Thread starter
ClassicVW_imp said:
I think you should use, or at least work the switch from time to time just to prevent the chance of corrosion build up.

I don't think you describe a dodgy switch as much as its a sensitive switch. That might be a good thing someday in a panic situation where you want it to shut down right away. Just learn to keep your frickin fingers off the thing and you'll be fine! ;)
I call it dodgy. A switch that is a bit too easy to activate I would call sensitive. This switch was "tripped" by merely brushing it with a fingertip, so lightly that the switch did not perceptively move.

I intend to open the switch housing and find the problem.

Kill switches are an anachronism that may have been needed in
the past. On a modern fuel injected bike they're just another place to have electrical problems. Just ask some Moto Guzzi owners.
 
On a modern fuel injected bike they're just another place to have electrical problems. Just ask some Moto Guzzi owners.

That's why I mentioned to work the switch from time to time to maybe work thru any corrosion starting.

I did have to replace my kill switch just this summer on my 1978 CB400T. Took me a long time to find one, and it wasn't cheap either. But I wanted to keep the bike 100% because I knew I'd be selling it. Dang cheap Honda part failed after only 36 years! :(
 
ClassicVW_imp said:
On a modern fuel injected bike they're just another place to have electrical problems. Just ask some Moto Guzzi owners.

That's why I mentioned to work the switch from time to time to maybe work thru any corrosion starting.

I did have to replace my kill switch just this summer on my 1978 CB400T. Took me a long time to find one, and it wasn't cheap either. But I wanted to keep the bike 100% because I knew I'd be selling it. Dang cheap Honda part failed after only 36 years! :(
That's probably very good advice - and I'm smart enough to take it :D
 
Thread starter
This is obviously a defective switch and no amount of switching it on and off is going to fix it. I've never had a problem with a kill switch before but I will disassemble it and find the cause.
 
I actually use my kill switch all the time to reduce the load on the ignition switch when turning the bike on. It may be worth it, or not, but it makes me feel better about it. :D
 
redbirds_imp said:
This is obviously a defective switch and no amount of switching it on and off is going to fix it. I've never had a problem with a kill switch before but I will disassemble it and find the cause.
You misunderstood my comment. My suggestion was not for a repair, but for a possible prevention.
 
I keep my kill switches off while there in my shop. When I turn on key to check fuel amount, miles etc my fuel pump don't have to cycle on and run. Also a safety factor if my 3 year old grandson was to turn key on he could not start it. Over all the years of riding I have had bikes fall over on me and the kill switch is a fast way to kill motor while your in pain in a bind! Easyer than turning the key.
 
I use the kill switch occasionally when I want to kill as I come to a stop. Yeh, yeh, I know, no need to tell me. But I have been bitten. Done that and got distracted. Flat battery and bump start. Luckily both times Push Samaritans were on hand. A kill switch that operates with a brush of the hand needs fixing, or replacing.

Cheers
 
Redbirds, did you ever resolve this? I'm at the rally having trouble with mine. If the switch is fully on, it doesn't run. It has to be positioned about 1/32" from fully on to work properly. I'm wondering if cleaning it will help.
 
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