Diagnostic Trouble Codes & Sensor testing

SportsterDoc

Road warrior
Thread starter
Code Retrieval

With ignition on or idling, sidestand down, the Malfunction Indicator light (MIL) / Check Engine Light (CEL) will blink a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), if the code is active.
Long blink = 1.3 seconds is a 10 value
Short blink – 0.5 second is a 1 value
Example: 2 longs + 5 short = DTC 25 (does not distinguish between 25-1 or 25-2)

For a stored code, with engine off, under the left side cover, short brown and green wires in Data Link Connector (DLC). With ignition switch on and run/stop switch in run, read code after MIL illuminates once and goes off. If MIL stays on, there is no stored DTC.

The following test condensations are a collaboration by PopGun and SportsterDoc; exclude the use of Honda diagnostics tools, requiring only a multimeter (volts and ohms).

This is a work in progress. At this point, by not utilizing the Honda MCS (Motorcycle Communications System), resistance is available only for EOT and TP sensors. With additional research/input from fellow forum members, we intend to add data to this thread.

Meanwhile, if a code is active and the following tests provide in-spec values, it is likely that the sensor has failed/is failing.

DTC 1-1 MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor low voltage or DTC 1-2 MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor high voltage
With MAP connector disconnected, ignition switch on, stop/run on, probe connector outside pins black/yellow (+) to black/green (-) for 4.75 to 5.25 vdc.

If no voltage, with ignition off, check continuity on black/yellow to ECM connector.

With ignition off, check MAP output center pin light green/yellow wire for no continuity (infinity) to ground. For DTC 1-2, check for continuity to ECM connector.

DTC 2-1 MAP sensor hose connection
Check electrical connectors and manifold vacuum hose is intact/connected

DTC 7-1 EOT (Engine Oil Temperature) sensor low voltage
Measure resistance of sensor between terminals of 2.4 – 2.9 K ohms at 20 degrees C/68 degrees F.

With ignition switch off, sensor disconnected, check connector pin to red/blue wire for no continuity (infinity) to ground.

DTC 7-1 EOT sensor high voltage
With ignition switch off, sensor disconnected, check for continuity of red/blue and green/orange wires to ECM connector.

DTC 8-1 TP (Throttle Position) sensor low voltage
With ignition switch on and stop/run on, probe sensor contacts to verify steady voltage increase from throttle fully closed to throttle fully open.
With ignition switch off, disconnect the connector, then with ignition switch on and stop/run on, measure voltage between connector pins black/yellow (+) to black/green (-) for 4.75 to 5.25 vdc.

If no voltage, with ignition off, check continuity on black/yellow to ECM connector, for continuity of center pin sensor output black/red wire to ECM connector and for no continuity (infinity) of black/red wire to ground.

DTC 8-2 TP (Throttle Position) sensor high voltage
With ignition switch off, disconnect the connector, measure sensor resistance between black/red and black green of 0.5 to 1.5 K ohms. Then with ignition switch on and stop/run on, measure voltage between connector pins black/yellow (+) to black/green (-) for 4.75 to 5.25 vdc.

DTC 9-1 IAT (Incoming Air Temperature) sensor low voltage
With ignition switch off, disconnect the connector, check pin to green/blue wire for no continuity (infinity) to ground.

DTC 9-2 IAT (Incoming Air Temperature) sensor high voltage
With ignition switch off, disconnect the connector, check continuity of gray/blue and green/orange to ECM.

If you notice an error, corrections are welcome.
 
Thank you SportsterDoc and popgun. When the time comes for me to figure this, I’ll know who to ask.
 
Its mostly condensed out of the manual and Doc is doing the work you see here. He being a bike tech and me an electronics tech makes collaboration easy. And it helps that we finally are getting some actual data from a couple of users.

It would be nice if we had detailed technical data on system operation from Honda, but that ain’t happening :)

He, and I, have some other ideas for testing, but I don’t have much time to look into it until after the new year.
 
Sportsterdoc & Popgun, thank you guys very much. I've saved a copy of these instructions for future use.
 
Thread starter
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Its mostly condensed out of the manual and Doc is doing the work you see here. He being a bike tech and me an electronics tech makes collaboration easy. And it helps that we finally are getting some actual data from a couple of users.

It would be nice if we had detailed technical data on system operation from Honda, but that ain’t happening :)

He, and I, have some other ideas for testing, but I don’t have much time to look into it until after the new year.
Referring to me as a bike tech may be a stretch. But I enjoy helping as much as I can.
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Its mostly condensed out of the manual and Doc is doing the work you see here. He being a bike tech and me an electronics tech makes collaboration easy. And it helps that we finally are getting some actual data from a couple of users.

It would be nice if we had detailed technical data on system operation from Honda, but that ain’t happening :)

He, and I, have some other ideas for testing, but I don’t have much time to look into it until after the new year.
Referring to me as a bike tech may be a stretch. But I enjoy helping as much as I can.
You're HIRED! Now come fix my dang bike.:biker::)
 
Crikey!? Do we all have to publish or CVs? :D
 
I was wondering that too... :-/
 
Thread starter
Cormanus_imp said:
Crikey!? Do we all have to publish or CVs? :D
You are welcome to delete from "Paid vacation by Uncle Sam" on.
On any other forum, I would have second thoughts and done so myself, but this forum only gives an hour for second thoughts.
pdedse_imp said:
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Its mostly condensed out of the manual and Doc is doing the work you see here. He being a bike tech and me an electronics tech makes collaboration easy. And it helps that we finally are getting some actual data from a couple of users.

It would be nice if we had detailed technical data on system operation from Honda, but that ain’t happening :)

He, and I, have some other ideas for testing, but I don’t have much time to look into it until after the new year.
Referring to me as a bike tech may be a stretch. But I enjoy helping as much as I can.
You're HIRED! Now come fix my dang bike.:biker::)
No longer for hire, but be happy to help evaluate diagnostics.
Checked for any vacuum loss?
 
How many oil container caps do I have to send in to get my Secret Agent CB1100 Decoder ring to help me crack this thread? lol

Seriously though, interesting stuff you guys.
 
I can remove the head on a 3 hp Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine, but that's about it. The engine certainly won't run after I put it back on.
 
HOW TO READ AND UNDERSTAND CONNECTORS::
For example::
TPS black 3 pin FEMALE CONNECTOR/wiring::
black/yellow = power supply (+) = pin 1
black/green = ground (-) = pin 3
black/red = signal = pin 2
TPS itself is a MALE type connector

To crack down and understand Honda connector configuration, all diagnostics should be followed by PIN NUMBERS ( if provided) not wire coloring, which may change, while pin numbers remain the same.
All connector views are from terminal side of the connector AND oriented that connector's LOCK is placed at TOP/12 o'clock, and::
MALE connectors (TPS itself) are numbered in order from left to right or upper left to lower right if a multi row connector
FEMALE connectors (CONNECTOR/WIRING to TPS) are numbered in order from right to left or upper right to lower left if a multi row connector

........ the most simple TPS FEMALE CONNECTOR test is as follows:::
1* IGN OFF
2* Disconnect TPS connector and THEN turn IGN ON again
3* Measure voltage between:
*pin 1-black/yellow = power supply (+) & pin 3-black/green = ground (-) = 4.75 - 5.25V
* pin 2-black/red = signal & pin 3-black/green = ground (-) = 4.75 - 5.25V

This is basic.

Hope did not make any error:@, otherwise would :rofl: at myself!!

pb
 
Thread starter
Peter
Thanks for your post. Our intention was to post separately for each sensor, with expanded details/instructions...after popgun has a chance to research data not included in the factory service manual.

More on Throttle Position sensor from FSM page 5-11:

+ black/yellow has a junction to the MAP sensor. From that junction the wire is yellow/red to ECM A9

signal black/red to junction, then red/yellow to ECM B17

- black/green to junction common with the 6 sensors, then green/orange to ECM A18

ECM 33P black connector for A positions, 3 rows, 1-11, 12-22, 24-33

ECM 33P gray connector for B positions, 3 rows, 1-11, 12-22, 24-33
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Cormanus_imp said:
Crikey!? Do we all have to publish or CVs? :D
You are welcome to delete from "Paid vacation by Uncle Sam" on.
On any other forum, I would have second thoughts and done so myself, but this forum only gives an hour for second thoughts.
pdedse_imp said:
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Its mostly condensed out of the manual and Doc is doing the work you see here. He being a bike tech and me an electronics tech makes collaboration easy. And it helps that we finally are getting some actual data from a couple of users.

It would be nice if we had detailed technical data on system operation from Honda, but that ain’t happening :)

He, and I, have some other ideas for testing, but I don’t have much time to look into it until after the new year.
Referring to me as a bike tech may be a stretch. But I enjoy helping as much as I can.
You're HIRED! Now come fix my dang bike.:biker::)
No longer for hire, but be happy to help evaluate diagnostics.
Checked for any vacuum loss?
No chance. It's a good read.
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Peter
Thanks for your post. Our intention was to post separately for each sensor, with expanded details/instructions...after popgun has a chance to research data not included in the factory service manual.

More on Throttle Position sensor from FSM page 5-11:

+ black/yellow has a junction to the MAP sensor. From that junction the wire is yellow/red to ECM A9

signal black/red to junction, then red/yellow to ECM B17

- black/green to junction common with the 6 sensors, then green/orange to ECM A18

ECM 33P black connector for A positions, 3 rows, 1-11, 12-22, 24-33

ECM 33P gray connector for B positions, 3 rows, 1-11, 12-22, 24-33
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
OK,...you GUYS do A GOOD JOB..carry on with it
thanks
pb
 
Thread starter
The following is a draft, sent to Popgun and Max (last week) for collaboration on possibly replacing MCS tests with multimeter only tests. Popgun has indicated that he is not able to start on it this month, so do not expect updates until January, 2018, at the earliest.

This is a condensed version of pages 5-17 through 5-20 of the FSM.

If anyone with a FSM notices any errors, please advise.

DTC 1-1 MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor low voltage
Black/yellow wire (common to TPS) junctions to yellow/red to ECM A9
Light/green to ECM B28
Black/green junctions to green/orange to ECM A18

Step one
MCS test: With ignition one, stop/run on, check for ~0 vdc. If ~0 vdc, go to step 2. If not, diagnose intermittent failure.

Step 2
With MAP connector disconnected, ignition switch on, stop/run on, probe connector outside pins black/yellow (+) to black/green (-) for 4.75 to 5.25 vdc. If ~ 5 vdc, go to step 4. If not, go to step 3.

Step 3
Check continuity on black/yellow to ECM connector A9. If continuity (expect ohms =/< 0.1), replace ECM with known good and recheck. If no continuity, replace/repair black/yellow – yellow/red wire.

Step 4
With ignition off, check MAP output center pin light green/yellow wire for no continuity (infinity) to ground. If grounded, replace/repair light green/yellow wire. If not grounded, got to step 5.

Step 5
Replace MAP sensor with known good unit.
Clear the ECM self -diagnosis memory data. [Separate write-up to be developed]
With ignition on, stop/run on, is DTC 1-1 indicated? If yes, replace ECM. If not replace, MAP sensor.

DTC 1-2 MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor high voltage

Step 1
MCS test: With ignition one, stop/run on, check for ~5 vdc. If ~5 vdc, go to step 2. If not, diagnose intermittent MAP failure.

Step 2
MCS test: With MAP disconnected, then ignition on, stop/run on, jumper black/green to light green/yellow (middle pin). If ~0 vdc, replace MAP. If not, go to step 3.

Step 3
With jumper removed and MAP connector still disconnected, ignition switch on, stop/run on, probe connector outside pins black/yellow (+) to black/green (-) for 4.75 to 5.25 vdc. If ~ 5 vdc, go to step 4. If not, replace/repair black/yellow – yellow/green wire or black/green – green/orange wire.

Step 4
With MAP connector still disconnected, ignition off, check for continuity from light green/yellow to B28. If continuity (expect ohms =/< 0.1), replace ECM with known good and recheck. If no continuity, replace/repair light green/yellow wire.
DTC 2-1 MAP sensor hose connection

Step 1
MCS test: With motor running, check MAP at idle. If reading changed, diagnose intermittent MAP failure. If not, go to step 2.

Step 2
Verify MAP sensor hose properly connected

Step 3
MCS test: Replace MAP sensor with known good unit. With motor running, check idle speed with MCS. If reading changed, replace MAP sensor. If not, replace ECM with known good unit and recheck.
 
Possible Edits

Great work, SportsterDoc.

In step 1 of DCT 1-1 and DCT 1-2, should it say "With ignition on"? If so, I'll edit the post for you.
 
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