Design Problem, Rear Wheel shifting to left

[mockhoff_imp]

Design Problem, Rear Wheel shifting to left



[url=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/mockhoff/media/P_20151201_164259_zpspyyudbhu.jpg.html]

 

[the Ferret]

1st pic, have you checked chain adjustment to see if wheel is straight?

It could be offset in your last pic because rear brake disc and caliper need more room than a sprocket.

 

[mockhoff_imp]

i havn't done anything on the rear wheel after from the dealer.

do u mean the rear wheel is in its right place?

 

[Lord Popgun]

Looks like it is to me.

 

[redbirds_imp]

Looking at the center stand feet, the wheel appears perfectly centered between them. The wheel is offset to clear the brake as ferret stated. It would be easy to confirm by putting the bike on center stand and pulling a string from the front tire to the rear on each side to confirm proper alignment.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

i havn't done anything on the rear wheel after from the dealer.

do u mean the rear wheel is in its right place?

Mockhoff, your photograph does look as though the rear wheel may be displaced. So lets try and set your mind to rest.

What do you mean by "after from the dealer"? Has the bike just come back from the dealer? Was the rear wheel removed while the bike was at the dealer? That tyre looks new, was it changed. Were the brakes worked on?

The reason I ask is that there are two spacing collars on the rear axle. A left side collar and a right side collar. They are each of different thicknesses. The left side collar, I think, is wider than the right side collar. It is possible, but unlikely for a number of reasons, that these collars were installed incorrectly ("arse about face", as a bush mechanic would say). But if it can be done, one day it will be done. So let us do a rough check. In the photograph below I have put a straight edge against the outside of the left side wheel nut and have measured the distance to the right side of the driven flange. The distance is approximately 10.35 cm, or 103.5 mm. Do a check. If the distance is significantly different you have a problem. If not then all is hunky dory and you can take the bike for a ride.

Cheers
And I hope this helps you.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Wow, that's a clean chain.

Is yours an ABS model like the OP's? If not, just curious if both configurations use the same collars / dimensions.

On second thought, ignore me. It wouldn't make sense for the clearances to be different, although specific components might be different.

Still, that's a heck of a chain.

 

[Lord Popgun]

On the parts listing, the abs and non abs have the same part numbers. BUT the 2014s are different than the 2013s

You can look here: http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/c/honda_motorcycle/parts

There are other part sites.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Wow, that's a clean chain.

Is yours an ABS model like the OP's? If not, just curious if both configurations use the same collars / dimensions.

On second thought, ignore me. It wouldn't make sense for the clearances to be different, although specific components might be different.

Still, that's a heck of a chain.

Clean chain? Yes, the last one (OEM chain) died a horrible death from an aggregation of sand, mud and assorted road grit held together by some chain lube. I am trying to keep my new Z-ring chain in good condition.

I see no difference in the shop manual between ABS and non-ABS collars and other axle parts. However year model may be pertinent. Maybe someone with a '14 model might find the time to help Mockhoff out.

Cheers

And mines a '10 model so the collars may be carved from wood :beerchug:

 

[Lord Popgun]

Or just look on the part listing. I think the 14 is different from the 13 as they changed the axle size so the hole would be a different dia.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

C

Or just look on the part listing. I think the 14 is different from the 13 as they changed the axle size so the hole would be a different dia.

You can look at the parts listing as much as you like but if the collars are different thicknesses and installed incorrectly then it won't help. If you think that collars cannot be installed incorrectly then think again. I have seen collars on a front wheel installed incorrectly and the mechanic trying to work out why the caliper assembly was harder to get back on than off (but it did go on). All I am trying to do is set this blokes mind at rest by trying to determine the distance from the swing arm to the driven flange if the wheel is installed correctly. Not hard really.

Cheers

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I'd be happy to post a photo of my 14 but one look at my nasty chain and you'd ostracize me for life.

Actually, I don't have a caliper and wouldn't be able to provide any sort of precise measurement.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

I'd be happy to post a photo of my 14 but one look at my nasty chain and you'd ostracize me for life.

Actually, I don't have a caliper and wouldn't be able to provide any sort of precise measurement.

I can understand that. I don't polish my headers, or anything else much really. Just wash the bike when it gets covered with road grim. The chain I do wash in Kero and lubricate. I have been bitten once by chain neglect.

As for measurement, precision is not required. To the nearest mm would be OK.

Cheers

 

[Lord Popgun]

Ptero,

I think we're arguing the same thing. Of course they could be installed on the wrong sides. I was just trying to answer the question about if they are the same on abs and non abs. Left and right side are diff. part numbers, but are the same for all both abs and non abs. One set of part numbers for 13s and another set for '14s.

I like your method of measuring the spacing. I think I'll do that and annotate my manual for future ref. when taking the wheel off.

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

It looks to me like the photo is taken from a slight angle. The design distances from wheel to swing arm don't necessarily need to be equal. What's important is that the wheel centerline aligns front to rear.
Not difficult to check. IMO, the bike is fine.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

^^^^ No worries mate, just trying to help this bloke out. I think, by looking at the assemblies, it would be difficult to get it all back together if those collars are different and arse about. However it has been done on a front wheel and some blokes are unstoppable "if it can be done".

Cheers

 

[mockhoff_imp]

THank you all of you, it is so good to have so many CB1100 fans here

 

[ChipBeck_imp]

Gentlemen,

After examining my CB11 and then looking at these photos something looks screwed up. My rear tire is perfectly centered under the rear fender and between the rear shock lower mounts. Was this bike purchased brand new or did it have miles on it? Most likely the rear wheel is out of alignment causing the rearmost part of the tire to be offset to the right.

Chip

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Gentlemen,

After examining my CB11 and then looking at these photos something looks screwed up. My rear tire is perfectly centered under the rear fender and between the rear shock lower mounts. Was this bike purchased brand new or did it have miles on it? Most likely the rear wheel is out of alignment causing the rearmost part of the tire to be offset to the right.

Chip

I agree Chip. It's either that or photographic distortion. If you read my previous post you will see I have measured the distance between the outer edge of the left wheel nut and the right side of the driven flange. As mine is a '10 model it may be different to that on a '14 model. This distance, plus a simple run-out check on the rear tyre, would tell Mockhoff whether his bike is safe to ride.

Cheers

 

[Lord Popgun]

Ptero,

I measured mine and got 10.1. guess that's close enough. I, like Chip, have looked at the pics and my bike and back and fourth a few times and either you or Chip must be correct.

Maybe he should do this: How To adjust the chain on the CB1100 and get back to us/you.