Delay when using headlight switch?

Jgarciajr40_imp

First service completed
Thread starter
Hi,

Recently bought a 2017 EX mode with 8,000 mile; and well I’ve noticed if I sometimes turn the high beam on there’s a small delay from when I turn the switch to when the high beams activate.

It’s not 100% replicable, but it’s noticeable at times. Albeit I haven’t been on a bike in over a decade - this isn’t normal? My old kawasakis from years past I don’t recall having this.
 
Welcome to the ForumJgarciajr40.

How long is the delay?

I would say any delay of more than a second would be unusual for any motorcycle and cage.

I am wondering if the switch just needs a contact cleaning, or similar?
 
Sorry, I don't have an answer, but welcome to the Forum, Jgarciajr40. Hope you are enjoying your bike. Sometimes when I get a "new" bike, I start seeing problems that aren't there. Hope that is the case with yours.
 
What GO and M in SC said. Clean the contacts as best you can. There is no relay involved, just the switch.
 
There is a tiny delay on my 2017 too. It is possible the switches are electronic rather than mechanical (2017 onwards) and there are no contacts to clean though, I don't know that for sure.
 
Thread starter
Hmm, maybe you guys are right. Maybe it’s was a one day fluke. I can’t seem to get it to do it again. I won’t think twice about it unless it stops work entirely, or the latency is more than 1-2sec.

The bike has been fantastic it’s a shame it’s gonna be my daily, and not a garage queen. Hurricane Ian took my car so this is all I got.

I honestly feel spoiled never had ABS, gear indicator, a working horn, and what appears to be pretty simply maintenance.
 
Sorry to hear about your car! I have a lot of coworkers in Florida who sustained some damage.

Probably not too helpful, since your bike has a factory LED headlight compared to my '13, but I did put an LED bulb in my bike. After a while, there was a delay of a few seconds going from low to high beam. The problem turned out to be a defective bulb, and a replacement solved the problem.
 
Jgarciajr40_imp said:
Hmm, maybe you guys are right. Maybe it’s was a one day fluke. I can’t seem to get it to do it again. I won’t think twice about it unless it stops work entirely, or the latency is more than 1-2sec.

The bike has been fantastic it’s a shame it’s gonna be my daily, and not a garage queen. Hurricane Ian took my car so this is all I got.

I honestly feel spoiled never had ABS, gear indicator, a working horn, and what appears to be pretty simply maintenance.
Maybe when you toggled it a few times you scraped the cruft off the mating contact surfaces.
 
I would agree with that GO. See it all the time at work.

As a tech though, I hate problems that magically fix themselves. They usually come back…
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
I would agree with that GO. See it all the time at work.

As a tech though, I hate problems that magically fix themselves. They usually come back…
That is 100% agreeable Popgun. Surprises while riding is not so much fun.
 
Thread starter
Ugh, she’s doing it again. I sprayed some wd40 into the crack of the switch. But now I can change the hi/low by just touching the button not actually moving the switch.

Think come sunday I’ll dissemble the switch; is it a pretty straight forward process? Unscrew the two screws on the bottom, and I’d imagine unclip/separate the two pieces assuming there’s no retainer style molds.

WD seemed to work for now I’ll let you guys know come Sunday if/when I break the switch/assembly open.
 
Have you considered the engine-start switch?

It disconnects the headlight when the button is pushed.
Had the same issue on the cb900 hornet, similar system and solved it by moving the start button sideways whilst pulling on it to rub the headlight contacts together and remove some oxide.

If you switch to the high beam the blue led indicates the quality of the contacts when moving the switch if it stays on solid.
 
Pterodactyl had trouble with his low beam coming on which was traced to grot in the engine start switch.
 
Thread starter
I disassembled the switch on Friday, and sprayed some wd40. So far no issues the past few days. The inside of the assembly doesn’t appear damaged or dirty not sure what’s causing the issue.

Imma wait till next weekend to disassembly it again, and buy some Honda silicone spray/grease and throw a small q-tip size amount under the switch.

The switch appears to be clean; I didn’t see how the switch works exactly but it looks like the switch is a “rocker” and simply moves back and forth touching a metal contact.
 
Thanks for the update, it is nice to know for others how something is fixed, just have a look at the previous posts, it is likely the start button on the right hand side, it disconnects the headlight every time it is used, have a look and check it out,
Moisture over time, salt air all do their work, well done on the left switch and no harm in providing extra protection to the bike.
I used clear acrylic spray on the cb1000r on the engine block front and the throttle body, looks as new and well protected.

All the best with the repairs.
 
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