Considering a 2014 leb'n hundit

[Leb'n Hundit_imp]

Hello, my first time here.
I went to check out a leb'n hundit, and only sat on one. The dealer started it for me, right inside the showroom. I said "Go ahead and goose it", he said "Go ahead". I did, and I liked it.

I'm still at the "cold feet" stage. I need something to "push me over", and I'll like get the last one in a crate, at this dealership.

I need to know from you new CB1100 owners how you like the bike?
And is there anything, any little thing, that you wish the bike had or didn't have.

AND what do you think about the 8K mile tappet adjustment.
Is that a one-time adjustment?

Previous bikes: '89 883 Sportster bought new
'83 V65 Magna (3rd owner, bought in 9/2010 with 7K miles)

 

[Randy B]

Hello, my first time here.
I went to check out a leb'n hundit, and only sat on one. The dealer started it for me, right inside the showroom. I said "Go ahead and goose it", he said "Go ahead". I did, and I liked it.

I'm still at the "cold feet" stage. I need something to "push me over", and I'll like get the last one in a crate, at this dealership.

I need to know from you new CB1100 owners how you like the bike?
And is there anything, any little thing, that you wish the bike had or didn't have.

AND what do you think about the 8K mile tappet adjustment.
Is that a one-time adjustment?

Previous bikes: '89 883 Sportster bought new
'83 V65 Magna (3rd owner, bought in 9/2010 with 7K miles)

That would be a no, it's not a one time thing. I had mine checked at 9,000 and 18,000. I had no adjustment needed the first time, but had quite a number of shims replaced this last time.

 

[Leb'n Hundit_imp]

Quote:That would be a no, it's not a one time thing. I had mine checked at 9,000 and 18,000. I had no adjustment needed the first time, but had quite a number of shims replaced this last time.

Can I get away with doing it myself, and not void my warranty, should I need to claim warranty for anything?
I plan to get a 2014, if I do this.

I wish they had a blue dlx for '14 like yours.
.

 

[Randy B]

So long as you have the tools and access to all of the needed replacement shims, I would think it wouldn't void the warranty. And no, it is not claimable for warranty work as it is scheduled maintenance.

 

[ClassicVW_imp]

Welcome to the forum.
I'm a new owner, about 3 weeks now. A lot of people put a small fairing or even a windshield if they ride on highways quite a bit. But as far as a "must have" I can't think of any one thing.
I think we all like the bike just fine, altho that doesn't stop us from farkeling it out anyway.

 

[Leb'n Hundit_imp]

Welcome to the forum.
I'm a new owner, about 3 weeks now. A lot of people put a small fairing or even a windshield if they ride on highways quite a bit. But as far as a "must have" I can't think of any one thing.
I think we all like the bike just fine, altho that doesn't stop us from farkeling it out anyway.

Thanks, and what I read is good. I just called a friend of mine who is into the older Honda stuff, told him of my plan, and he responded enthusiastically until I mentioned the 8k mile interval on the valves, AND the fact that it's the "shim under bucket" style of adjustment.
.
I'd rather just turn a screw/nut and then lock it in.
And, I don't like turning or wrenching anything.
.
But it's such a sweet bike. I want it.
Oh Honda, why would you do this? I don't have much money at all, yet you want me to take half the head apart to make an adjustment. Why? Why? :huh: (and every 8K miles at that!).

 

[PowderToastMan_imp]

That valve adjustment is pretty spendy if you have the shop do it, you're right.
I hear that doing it yourself isn't necessarily that hard, but takes a bit of time.

That's probably the one feature I wish they'd put on this bike like the old Nighthawks, the hydraulic valve lifters so you in theory never have to service the valves. I've read (possibly a comment on this forum, don't remember where though!) that the Japanese manufacturers believe the bucket/shim to be the superior setup in terms of tolerance/performance. I wouldn't have minded sacrificing a little bit of performance for that, though, given that I don't use 100% of the bikes available power anyhow... that's just me though.

Either way, I've had nothing but a good time on this bike! Kept everything stock so far, too.

 

[rboe]

You want a Moto Guzzi. Heads are out in the breeze making them easy peasy to get to, no tupperware to remove (save the Norge) and they are screw and lock nut. Old school air cooled (oil cooled on some, still mostly air cooled) and they are shaft drive.

No dealer network to speak of so you'll do most of the work yourself although you may have a dealer near you. Parts are fairly easy to get except for this time of year when Italy goes on vacation.

They are almost Honda reliable out the door, but sometimes they need some sorting. Once sorted 250,000 miles is duck soup.

So you want a Moto Guzzi. If in doubt, take one for a test ride. A nice long test ride (they take a while to warm up to you).

The CB is a nice bike too.

 

[HikerToo_imp]

The service manager at my dealer said he would not bother with the 8K mile valve adjustment, said save my money, so he recommended I wait longer, he than said " although you didn't hear me say that".
So I'll wait until 13 or 14K miles before I have mine checked for the first time.

And if there is one thing I could change.....maybe a more comfortable seat and 20 more HP. although that's two.

 

[the Ferret]

The Japanese have come to favor the shim under bucket over the last 30 years as being the most reliable form of valve adjustment. Not just Honda, but Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki as well. My Triumph Bonneville also used this system. Inspecting is different than adjusting. I have never had to have a shim under bucket valve adjusted, although I have had them inspected. My ST has close to 50,000, my Bonneville 30,000, my Yamaha FZ-1 over 30,000. Zero valve adjustments. To inspect the valves one needs to remove the valve cover and one of the engine covers so you can turn the engine over and change the rotation of the camshafts. There is an adjustment range ( just like there is a high and low level on brake master cylinders and oil crankcases) and any valve within that range is ok although most people want them adjusted so they are exactly in the middle of the range. Just as the oil doesn't have to be at the upper level in the site window, just between the high and low marks but again as anal as we've become lately every insists their oil be exactly at the upper level.

 

[Cormanus]

I was supposed to have my valve adjustment checked at 12,000 kms, but I was away riding and didn't get the service done until 15,600 kms. I had the valve adjustment checked and it was within tolerance.

Every time I ride this bike I enjoy it more.

 

[gossman_imp]

Valve adjustments just aren't a big deal , fairly easy to do especially on these motors. But a warning to note, I know a few who were very insistent on keeping them snug and it ends in a short engine life. I don't suggest that you ignore them but I've owned a few 550 fours that I was less than diligent, the valves rattled and no problems. There is probably a YouTube video somewhere that shows how to do it. Usually took me a little over 3 hours, now I'll probably take 5 hours, but beer stops and bsing is part of the process.

 

[Elipten_imp]

Great bike, my only must do is changing the seat, but many have no issues. I do safety upgrade but not required. Valve adjustment no big deal IMHO.


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[14CharlieBravo11_imp]

Got a '14 last month, absolutely love it. The only thing I did to it right away is add a Street Shield since most of my riding is 60-75mph. Thinking about a different seat, but I'll give that some more time (stock one is decent). The valve adjustment is/was not a deal-breaker for me. Got about 2,000 miles on it now and it runs great.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Valve adjustments just aren't a big deal , fairly easy to do especially on these motors. But a warning to note, I know a few who were very insistent on keeping them snug and it ends in a short engine life. I don't suggest that you ignore them but I've owned a few 550 fours that I was less than diligent, the valves rattled and no problems. There is probably a YouTube video somewhere that shows how to do it. Usually took me a little over 3 hours, now I'll probably take 5 hours, but beer stops and bsing is part of the process.

Gossman, You do know that you have to pull the cams to adjust the valves. Easy for you maybe

 

[gossman_imp]

Valve adjustments just aren't a big deal , fairly easy to do especially on these motors. But a warning to note, I know a few who were very insistent on keeping them snug and it ends in a short engine life. I don't suggest that you ignore them but I've owned a few 550 fours that I was less than diligent, the valves rattled and no problems. There is probably a YouTube video somewhere that shows how to do it. Usually took me a little over 3 hours, now I'll probably take 5 hours, but beer stops and bsing is part of the process.

Gossman, You do know that you have to pull the cams to adjust the valves. Easy for you maybe

Gossman, You do know that you have to pull the cams to adjust the valves. Easy for you maybe
Just don't sweat it. Get a buddy and a service book, take your time, go slow, and follow the plan. I doubt most owners who average 2 to 3 k in yearly mileage will ever see an actual adjustment. The check is easy for most. If one has doubts, the $700 cost is a easy choice, especially for the low mileage riders.

 

[AzBob_imp]

If you're a detail-oriented person, pulling the cams is actually pretty easy, assuming you have the shop manual. If you're the kind of person that doesn't read instructions when they get something new and just figures it out on your own, you probably want to have a trusted mechanic do the valve check/adjustment for you as it's very precise and requires writing down a bunch of measurements that must be taken accurately and in-order. You also need the appropriate tools (long feeler gauges, a magnet, a micrometer, etc.).

 

[Leb'n Hundit_imp]

You want a Moto Guzzi. Heads are out in the breeze making them easy peasy to get to, no tupperware to remove (save the Norge) and they are screw and lock nut. Old school air cooled (oil cooled on some, still mostly air cooled) and they are shaft drive.

No dealer network to speak of so you'll do most of the work yourself although you may have a dealer near you. Parts are fairly easy to get except for this time of year when Italy goes on vacation.

They are almost Honda reliable out the door, but sometimes they need some sorting. Once sorted 250,000 miles is duck soup.

So you want a Moto Guzzi. If in doubt, take one for a test ride. A nice long test ride (they take a while to warm up to you).

The CB is a nice bike too.

That is most interesting.

Now, is that pronounced "Guzzy" as I learned about 100 years ago in jr high? Or, is it pronounced "Goochy", or is it "Gootsy".

If it's affordable, I shall look into one of these.
.

That valve adjustment is pretty spendy if you have the shop do it, you're right.
I hear that doing it yourself isn't necessarily that hard, but takes a bit of time.

That's probably the one feature I wish they'd put on this bike like the old Nighthawks, the hydraulic valve lifters so you in theory never have to service the valves. I've read (possibly a comment on this forum, don't remember where though!) that the Japanese manufacturers believe the bucket/shim to be the superior setup in terms of tolerance/performance. I wouldn't have minded sacrificing a little bit of performance for that, though, given that I don't use 100% of the bikes available power anyhow... that's just me though.

Either way, I've had nothing but a good time on this bike! Kept everything stock so far, too.

Yes, "spendy" at 700, for sure.
But I will always question Honda's desicion as to why they 'did' this.

I think Japan could have come up with a far superior way to adjust valves,
by now. I know they used to use a more conventional way.
I think the only thing here is motivated by their greed.

Cheaper to build 'this way', and rake in extra bucks at the service dept.

I alerted my local jap bike dealer to this fact, and I've never seen a service tech, look up anything on his computer, and say "WHAT? !?"
.
Dear Honda,

You need to redo the valve system on this bike.
Your sales on this bike, will suffer. Or, they'll be lower than expected. OR you'll not ever have seen the true potential of what it could bring you.
Yes, I know you have made more internal combustion engines than anyone else on the planet, but you make them for the same people, the majority who need such a minimal break, like the valve system issue.
.
I was about to write a check for this bike, but thankfully I was alerted to this 'problem', and I stopped. Especially after the service tech was alarmed at the news I brought to them today. This is as bad as the Sportster losing the trap door in 2003, for easier tranny access. Then, in 2004, they added rubber mount engines. COME ON HARLEY! What's the problem? Not enough money?
.
Why are motorcycle companies behaving like this? Is it really about the true greed involved? Streamlining the assembly line?
.
Mr. Leb'n Hundit
.

 

[rboe]

Gootzy

Jap was fine for our grandfathers and perhaps our fathers but is regarded as very poor form today. JAP is OK when talking about the British motor.

Shims under bucket has been pretty fair for big performance in line fours that reach stupid high rpms. It's a very stout way to maintain valve clearances under extreme conditions. I don't see any manufactures changing that. Pain in the keister, but typically actual adjustments seem to be few and far between so a bit of sugar on the bitter pill.

 

[emptysea]

Goozi..at least here in the Midwest. And EVERYTHING is "spendy" with them.

Maybe Jap. (with the period) would be ok if one also would type Ger. or Ital. or Amer. Otherwise, probably not.

Don't know anyone (perhaps until now) that wouldn't by a bike because it requires a valve inspection. Seems pretty silly to me. You should buy the Guzzi, I think.