Chain Lube

[Rocky_imp]

There are a number of ways of limiting the mess from spray cans.
I found a plastic tube from another spray can that fit in the Tirox nozzle.
Lemmy's method of laying the tube straight down the chain rollers works well.
The chain links keep the tube in place.
I use a piece of cardboard behind the chain to catch the excess when spraying the outside links.
Have not found a clean way for the insides links yet.
Fortunately the clear wax seems to last longer than messy black greases and lubes.

Yep, a piece of cardboard as a shield against overspray and a piece on the floor to catch any drips.

 

[Gone in 60]

This just arrived at my shop today. When I run through the rest of my can of Maxima, We'll see if it can move mountains, make angels weep and stop worldwide famine as it is claimed to do.

 

[Cormanus]

I dunno. You guys. The man in the video is saying pretty clearly you're wasting your time on all this goop in spray cans.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Gone, you don’t even have to spray it on the chain. Just wave the can around the chain so it can see the label. Good to go!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Gone, you don’t even have to spray it on the chain. Just wave the can around the chain so it can see the label. Good to go!

lol ... too much.

 

[Gone in 60]

Excellent idea, Popgun. I have to take the car to work today. I’ll put the can on a brick right next to the chain and give it the full day for the process of osmosis to take place.

 

[Rocky_imp]

Excellent idea, Popgun. I have to take the car to work today. I’ll put the can on a brick right next to the chain and give it the full day for the process of osmosis to take place.

:rofl:
You guys are a hoot!!!!

 

[Lord Popgun]

Not sure if this will work. I pulled up the stuff on Amazon. I can make it full screen and just set my iPad looking at the chain. Hummm, might have to try that this evening...

 

[Ben70_imp]

Best recipe for a good dry martini, store the vermouth next to the gin but don't open it, pour the gin on the rocks add olive.
Same idea.

Ben

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

BTW Cormanus - forgot to say: That was a great video you reference (Canadian too).

As a declared shaft-drive fan, I really dislike chains and I really do not wish to spend any time maintaining them. However, rust is indeed an issue in my domain, especially during the cold season when road salt (dust) is abound. My CB chain (and center stand too) just went to the graveyard. So my goal is simply to keep the metal "shiny" enough with lubricant to prevent contaminants and salt cling. As indicated before, this helps be facilitate that:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=14424&pid=242181#pid242181

 

[redbirds_imp]

I am surprized he used Maxima Chain Wax which is nothing more than paraffin. They sell Tirox Synthetic Chain Wax which is slightly less expensive for a large spray can. Fort Nine is one of the few place you can buy it, unless you want to pay 3 times as much on Amazon.

According to the spray can print Tirox utilizes a proprietary two-stage chemical and electrical charge process joining nano-synthetics with a PTFE infusion, virtually eliminating chain and sprocket wear.

I use Tirox Synthetic Chain Wax and find that it does not fling or gather a lot of grit. That keeps the chain, chain guard, rear wheel spokes and rim much cleaner than anything else I have tried.

The warning information is scary, and to back it up a pair of nitrile safety gloves come stuffed in the cap.

I've been using Tirox for a few years now. Every time I leave home a mile of very sandy dirt road is part of my ride, coming and going. Over the years many different chain lubes have been tried and Tirox is best at staying on the chain and not picking up sand and forming an abrasive paste. It also cleans up easily with a rag and some WD-40.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I am surprized he used Maxima Chain Wax which is nothing more than paraffin. They sell Tirox Synthetic Chain Wax which is slightly less expensive for a large spray can. Fort Nine is one of the few place you can buy it, unless you want to pay 3 times as much on Amazon.

According to the spray can print Tirox utilizes a proprietary two-stage chemical and electrical charge process joining nano-synthetics with a PTFE infusion, virtually eliminating chain and sprocket wear.

I use Tirox Synthetic Chain Wax and find that it does not fling or gather a lot of grit. That keeps the chain, chain guard, rear wheel spokes and rim much cleaner than anything else I have tried.

The warning information is scary, and to back it up a pair of nitrile safety gloves come stuffed in the cap.

I wouldn't want to inhale any of that either. Who knows what the price will be 10 or 15 years later. :-/

 

[Bazbro_imp]

(I'm sorry if this is a bit lengthy.)

Because the bearing surfaces of modern chains are sealed and protected by the 'O' or 'X'-rings, we're really only talking about the exposed surfaces of the chain needing protection from the atmosphere. It seems to me, therefore, that actual "lubrication" is totally unnecessary - only protecting the exposed surfaces from rusting is all that's required. I mean, if 'O' or 'X'-rings seal manufacturer's grease IN, how do externally applied products miraculously get past them to add lubrication. I believe claims of "lubrication" to be mostly snake-oil and the profits of these companies are on the back wheels of motorcycles, a bit like Heinz' profits being from what's left on the edge of your plate!

As others have noted, a regular wipe with an oily rag is all that's needed to achieve prevention of rust, because a rusted surface will eventually creep under the 'O' or 'X'-rings and damage their ability to seal the manufacturer's grease in.

So, if you accept that modern chains don't need actual additional "lubrication", then a non-flinging coating on the rest of the chain could be all that's required.

We have a product here in the UK, 'ACF-50'. It's an aerosol light oil, "stickier" than ordinary oil, and is intended to winter-proof motorcycles against the effects of water/road salt spray/etc. and it needs regular applications throughout the winter. It seemed to me that this could be all that's needed to protect chains. It's not a lubricant per se, but a protectant. It would need several applications throughout the year, more often in winter. It's not as "overkill" as I believe many (expensive!) products are, but not as tedious as constant wiping with the proverbial oily rag. A quick spray every 500 or 1,000 miles, whenever, could be all that's needed. (I don't believe ACF-50 Grease to be suitable.)

With this in mind, I wrote to ACF-50 and asked them their experience with "chains". This is their Product Manager's reply...
"Thanks for your enquiry.
We have racing motorcyclists who use nothing except ACF-50 on drive chains ! – when I queried this with a couple of them the reason was obvious.
They could spin the rear wheel with chain in place – and the resistance was minimal, plus they chucked the chain away after every meeting.
 However – for everyday riding of course you need the proper lubrication provided by the wide range of chain lube choices available these days.
ACF-50 has its place for use on the side plates as you mentioned – it’s not harmful to chain o-rings.
The Corrosion Block grease ( made by same manf as ACF-50) does not have the same creeping properties as the liquid for obvious reasons – and to be honest, we have no experience of its use as a “protector” on motorcycle chains – but it might work ok as long as not too heavily applied so as to avoid “fling”.
Some years back the Scotoiler people got close to adding ACF-50 into their chainlube system – so there is no reason why you could not apply it along with regular chain products – but definitely not on its own.
Hope that helps.
Best Regards
Dave
Dave Heppell
Product Manager"

Confusingly, he says "you need the proper lubrication provided by the wide range of chain lube choices" which is the very thing that I take issue with - I don't believe "lubrication" to be the issue with our chains. But other than that, it seems that ACF-50 is a good substitute for "the oily rag".

 

[Houtman_imp]

I always felt the same as you do, if the chains are sealed than we just have to prevent the rusting of the side plates. The "silver" plated DID ZVM-X chains does not rust as the "normal" chains do.

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Thanks, John. I've not heard of DID's ZVM-X chain (but as a BMW rider that's not surprising!). If they do not rust, that is almost all the battle won, in my opinion. Light lubrication of the edges and surfaces of 'O' and 'X'-rings, to stop drying out, is probably all that's then required?

 

[Houtman_imp]

I use an oily rag with 80/90 gear oil on it. Cheap and cheerful .

 

[misterprofessionality]

I, too, have a DID ZVM-X now and i can corroborate the accounts above. It's just the best choice for a new chain when you need one. that said, the OEM chain goes for stupidly long miles compared to some. in case nobody else has posted it, here's some "science" on chain lubes for you to consider:

 

[Cormanus]

I’m sure I’ve seen that video somewhere.

 

[emptysea]

After watching the video and reading the owner's manual, I'm convinced that gear oil is the best solution. However, I will continue to use Maxima chain wax because I like the way it smells. Seems as good a reason as any.

Sometime in the future, I may switch to gear oil and keep some chain wax around as an "air-freshener" for my garage.

 

[peterbaron]

When I picked up my 2013 CB/demo-4500km, the chained was lightly greased...