CEL after Jump Start

[rage91_imp]

Came out to a dead battery last night, I think someone put my hazards on just to be a jerk. I got jumped from a booster pack but my check engine light has been on since it was jumped. Hooking the battery up to a charger today but curious if there's a way to check the check engine light code on the 2017? I looked through the owner's manual and nothing. Closest Honda dealer is pretty far and I'd love to not have to go there just to get a low voltage code cleared if that's what it is.

 

[rage91_imp]

Just an update, the light status illuminated and doesn't flash at all

 

[Lord Popgun]

There is a way to read malfunction codes without a code reader (I have one by the way )

First, it is not called the check engine light. It is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light). Not being a jerk, just trying to use the Honda terminology

Read this post to read out your code, let us know what it is and we can look it up: Check engine light/codes

 

[Gone in 60]

Oh boy, please tell me these bikes aren't finicky with voltage fluctuations. One of the reasons I dumped my BMW for this bike is because I apparently fried a $2700 ABS module by jump starting that thing...

Good luck, Rage!

 

[peterbaron]

Oh boy, please tell me these bikes aren't finicky with voltage fluctuations. One of the reasons I dumped my BMW for this bike is because I apparently fried a $2700 ABS module by jump starting that thing...

Good luck, Rage!

...and how did it happen, any details?

 

[Gone in 60]

Crazy BMW CAN Bus electronics that you’re not supposed to breathe on because if you do like fifty BMW owners will sit outside your garage and publicly shame you or something.

All I know is after I jumped a dead battery the ABS started glitching a bit. A technician told me that their CAN Bus system freaks out when you do that. Luckily I found a buyer who didn’t care and was going to put the bike into a BMW collection.

My hope going back to Honda was a return to sane, simple electronics. The CB isn’t a CAN Bus bike, is it?

 

[rage91_imp]

So, I tried everything, but the MIL is not blinking at all, as soon as I turn the key it is on, start it, stays on. Solid, no flashing.

 

[max]

Rage91 here is a video clip that steps through the process of checking and clearing mil codes for Honda mc's.
the wire color for the later honda's is brown and green and has a red protector cap over the Data Link Connector.
in our case the ( red ) connector is located behind the left sidecover.
As a second piece of advice you may want to try a " throttle reset", switch the key on and wait for the fuelpump to stop ( 2 sec.) slowly roll the throttle grip to full open position, and roll it back, then switch the key off, this " re-learns the tpsensor" position on the throttle body in the ecu.

Also check for any easy to reach connectors like the tps if they have been unplugged or loose ( in case an expert tampered with your bike ).

Do you remember if the mil was on before you jumpstarted the bike?

So now you learned a bunch of new words

 

[rage91_imp]

Ha, no it was not on prior to jumping the bike. Going to a local shop to have the code pulled since it's not blinking and I want to know what it is before I clear it.

 

[max]

Crazy BMW CAN Bus electronics that you’re not supposed to breathe on because if you do like fifty BMW owners will sit outside your garage and publicly shame you or something.

All I know is after I jumped a dead battery the ABS started glitching a bit. A technician told me that their CAN Bus system freaks out when you do that. Luckily I found a buyer who didn’t care and was going to put the bike into a BMW collection.

My hope going back to Honda was a return to sane, simple electronics. The CB isn’t a CAN Bus bike, is it?

Nah, it only waffles to the instrument cluster about fuel level and rev counter talk and you can " listen" to the "k wire" for some detailed data inputs, but that is popguns specialty and used sparingly.
Real bikes don't need a bus to run them.

 

[rage91_imp]

so it has to be jumpered to read the code? I think that's the part I might have missed

 

[Houtman_imp]

I think that the 2017 needs a code reader to clear the system , my local dealer did this for $ 17 ! Very happy and only took 5 minutes.

 

[max]

Yep, follow the steps in the video, maybe watch a few times as i have to do to learn about this.

 

[rage91_imp]

Well after all that I went outside with my wire and codes gone. Thanks for the help guys

 

[max]

Thanks very much for the feedback, quick responses and congratulations with the repair, have fun .:hello:

By the way that repair took less than 30 minutes; we have a new record!:excited::excited::clap:

 

[rage91_imp]

Haha I should rephrase, the MIL was no longer on and not displaying any codes. I'm going to chalk it up to a weird one time thing that'll likely come back to bite me, but that's a future rage91 problem.

 

[Gone in 60]

Congratulations! Jumper wire and you clear codes? No bootleg secret code scanner tool to buy?

Love it. Popgun, perhaps the Decoder Ring favors a new rider?

BTW, reading you post, went out and tried flicking on the hazards with the key out of my 2013. Either the key-out function came after my model year, or it's too bright out to tell and I'll have a dead battery by the time I need to go home.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Hummm, strong with the Force the Decoder Ring is.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Oh boy, please tell me these bikes aren't finicky with voltage fluctuations. One of the reasons I dumped my BMW for this bike is because I apparently fried a $2700 ABS module by jump starting that thing...

Good luck, Rage!

Unlikely Gin60.

At least with my '14, two weeks ago I killed the battery (left ignition on too long, hence the headlight burn) while on tour - so much so my clock reset. No dash warning lights, no codes. Also, a basic bump (an old fashioned push) start got the lump firing again and the battery charged up on wayward home. The CB behaved like nothing happened.

I believe with the CB1100 you are in good hands.

 

[peterbaron]

x 2 with GO statement and NFF with CB