CB77

Notice that someone put the Honda logo on the opposite sides of the tank? The Flying Logo should be FACING INTO the wind, not with its back to it. Both sides are that way; obviously they made mirror images to have the wings flying right...and instead, both are wrong.

Was it done that way at the factory, do you think?
 
Thread starter
No, those are aftermarket wings a guy on the .305 forum pointed out they were backwards
 
Ole_imp said:
Snowing like crazy here in Wisconsin today. I got bored and headed to the basement. The old girl looks a little different.

6f284c23d0a70fbc3bf5bfadb3459a94.jpg


That rust pile came out of the mufflers

c357c1cff778b6385e74ae2fc2dd0d44.jpg


I need to get my Fluke out and check some continuity in some wires this looks like the only bad spot

7331a2034cdf0953d28970558a54a874.jpg


Taking the gas tank to work to clean out some fine rust and a tiny amount of shellac. I will start with simple green then vinegar if that don't cut it some paint thinner will
all diluted with some hot water

da6a47d76aa10e0dbc053344b9492c9a.jpg
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
 
JustJohn_imp said:
Ole_imp said:
Snowing like crazy here in Wisconsin today. I got bored and headed to the basement. The old girl looks a little different.

6f284c23d0a70fbc3bf5bfadb3459a94.jpg


That rust pile came out of the mufflers

c357c1cff778b6385e74ae2fc2dd0d44.jpg


I need to get my Fluke out and check some continuity in some wires this looks like the only bad spot

7331a2034cdf0953d28970558a54a874.jpg


Taking the gas tank to work to clean out some fine rust and a tiny amount of shellac. I will start with simple green then vinegar if that don't cut it some paint thinner will
all diluted with some hot water

da6a47d76aa10e0dbc053344b9492c9a.jpg
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
Guys, don't mess around with all that nasty, toxic stuff. I have used Rusteco on rusted tanks and it works great. Won't harm paint at all like the acid etc. Won't harm you or your skin or eyes either. This stuff works great. The U.S. Navy uses their products.

RustEco.com is for sale | HugeDomains
 
Thread starter
Scoobynut_imp said:
JustJohn_imp said:
Ole_imp said:
Snowing like crazy here in Wisconsin today. I got bored and headed to the basement. The old girl looks a little different.

6f284c23d0a70fbc3bf5bfadb3459a94.jpg


That rust pile came out of the mufflers

c357c1cff778b6385e74ae2fc2dd0d44.jpg


I need to get my Fluke out and check some continuity in some wires this looks like the only bad spot

7331a2034cdf0953d28970558a54a874.jpg


Taking the gas tank to work to clean out some fine rust and a tiny amount of shellac. I will start with simple green then vinegar if that don't cut it some paint thinner will
all diluted with some hot water

da6a47d76aa10e0dbc053344b9492c9a.jpg
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
Guys, don't mess around with all that nasty, toxic stuff. I have used Rusteco on rusted tanks and it works great. Won't harm paint at all like the acid etc. Won't harm you or your skin or eyes either. This stuff works great. The U.S. Navy uses their products.

RustEco.com is for sale | HugeDomains
My old tank doesn't have much rust. But it has a shellac-like deposit on the bottom.
What is the main ingredient of Rusteco? We have some bio degradable heavy duty cleaner at work. I would like to compare the list of ingredients if that is possible.
thanks
 
Ole_imp said:
Scoobynut_imp said:
JustJohn_imp said:
Ole_imp said:
Snowing like crazy here in Wisconsin today. I got bored and headed to the basement. The old girl looks a little different.

6f284c23d0a70fbc3bf5bfadb3459a94.jpg


That rust pile came out of the mufflers

c357c1cff778b6385e74ae2fc2dd0d44.jpg


I need to get my Fluke out and check some continuity in some wires this looks like the only bad spot

7331a2034cdf0953d28970558a54a874.jpg


Taking the gas tank to work to clean out some fine rust and a tiny amount of shellac. I will start with simple green then vinegar if that don't cut it some paint thinner will
all diluted with some hot water

da6a47d76aa10e0dbc053344b9492c9a.jpg
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
Grab a handful of old washers and small nuts, pour them in the tank. Seal it after adding about a quart of Diesel fuel. Roll it it your hands. You will feel the metal rolling in the tank. After about 20 minutes, unseal and drain the whole mess out. Let it dry. Then add some Muriatic acid and seal. Rotate 1/4 turn about every 4 hours for a day. Rinse with a hose,dry with air, then fog it with WD-40 until your ready to add fuel. You can POR it after that if needed.
Guys, don't mess around with all that nasty, toxic stuff. I have used Rusteco on rusted tanks and it works great. Won't harm paint at all like the acid etc. Won't harm you or your skin or eyes either. This stuff works great. The U.S. Navy uses their products.

RustEco.com is for sale | HugeDomains
My old tank doesn't have much rust. But it has a shellac-like deposit on the bottom.
What is the main ingredient of Rusteco? We have some bio degradable heavy duty cleaner at work. I would like to compare the list of ingredients if that is possible.
thanks
My old tank doesn't have much rust. But it has a shellac-like deposit on the bottom.
What is the main ingredient of Rusteco? We have some bio degradable heavy duty cleaner at work. I would like to compare the list of ingredients if that is possible.
thanks
Ole, I'm not sure about the ingredients, but if you go to the link I included it should give you all the information (RustEco.com is for sale | HugeDomains). That old tank has a really nice patina to it with what looks like the original paint, I'd hate to see some of the paint get eaten up with the acid if you have a whoopsie when you're removing the rust. The RD400 I restored had all kinds of gunk and shellac in the bottom and the Rusteco got it all out.
 
Thread starter
I have pulled the carbs on the old Superhawk. I had a heck of a time getting the slides to move. They were welded in there I swear it. Going to try and find a battery Monday. I shined up the Denso points with some 400 grit sandpaper. They look fine. Saw my sons battery out of his VTX sitting there and hooked it up the Superhawk and said what the heck lets turn this puppy over. She turned over fine with the E button! And good spark to the plugs! I can't believe those 51 year old coils still work.
Going to try and sort those carbs this week we will see what happens.
 
Thread starter
Been working on the Superhawk a little bit of late. I used a gallon of Evaporust to clean the inside of the gas tank. I worked pretty good. I filled the tank full of diesel so it wont flash rust and put it on my shelf.

0db4daa7af99498940b66b4dbcc0d643.jpg


I was able to buy two new air filters

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and rubber boots with retainer springs

cbeb9cf0e9db3b0a20cfb5b98d596e7a.jpg


most of this stuff can be bought on Ebay

a new rectifier the old one was shorted out

513dae2cda22aab8a5714787fa77cfbb.jpg


the correct lead acid battery

d6b3c2bd22ce15823996b839ea680f21.jpg


two little filters in case my gas tank not clean enough

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Found two generic mufflers and in measuring them they will work with the stock header pipes

dbe26e3db3c55ec2bacb7044858f9431.jpg


two new tires, tubes, and rim strips
she's got new shoes!

6a376da42cbc0785c29b673c3c5c9e98.jpg


106cf19ab7e4ba855354ff51a88dccdd.jpg


a 31 screw kit for the motor

0295c70c7821947da1407ad1efdb3c21.jpg


two carbs and petcock rebuilt
had to go to ACE for a new brass tube for the fuel pickup they had a piece that worked

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my son bought me a new mirror and RLET's for Christmas

cf19cce71d673f3ae405e4fccb8ad8c1.jpg


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I have spark so when the weather warms up gonna put some fresh gas in the tank and lord willing, fire the old girl up!
Have not put the acid in the battery yet will wait til I test fire

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the seat cleaned up OK with just some armor all and WD40

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If you guys are wondering why I didnt go OEM pipes? There is only one outfit making them in England and they go $1100
 
Nice looking bike!
Suggestion before firing.
-pull spark plugs & ground leads
-remove a tappet cover from both sides
-crank engine in short spurts till you see oil up by the valves

Good luck. Something tells me it's going to fire right up :D
 
Thread starter
Never thought of that. I have pulled the oil pump apart and inspected it. Thanks for the advice
 
Ole_imp said:
Thanks for all the advice guys. I am really torn here. I know I can get the Benly cheap, but in my heart of hearts, I want a Superhawk. Why I don't know. For two summers my work commuter bike was an old Honda S65. You guys must remember them? A guy on the Kawasaki Versys forum bugged me for months and months to sell it to him. I was weak and I let it go. It was a cool little 45mph bike and I do miss it:

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8a8719153cbc9a696b74d6ebc07f2dff.jpg


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It only had 2000 miles on it when I bought it. Spark plug, battery, carb clean and that lil sucker fired right up. I think I am going to pester the old man and the the son who have the Superhawk with 4000 miles. I don't think the Benly will work for me. I must break them down!
my first bike was a red 65 fun bike for 14 year old.they ran good with 140 lbs. on them we were really going in the day.68 lupe
 
I was turned on to 303 Aerospace Protectant by the folks that sold me by truck bed cover (metal chassis but vinyl top). I've been using and it works. From what I can gather, it's better than Armor-all as it does not leach a certain compound out of the plastic that normally migrates out, but replaces it.

Check it out. It's a bit expensive though.
Phosphoric Acid, used to clean and etch your metal bits, will leave a phosphate coating on the metal which helps with the adhesion of your POR15 (I didn't do this on my tiller tanks and the POR 15 delaminated - heavy sigh) and also helps with flash rust. Not quite as good as filling with diesel though. :)
 
Ole, I am enjoying following you working on the CB77. Keep up the good work. I would like to ride out there to see you and see your bike first hand. Naturally I will be riding your old CB1100.

modmaster
 
Ole have you tried davidsilverspares.com for parts for you projects. They have bought out old inventory for years. I have been able to find parts for my CBX there. They might be able to help you find the parts you need. Just a thought.
 
A CL77 in 1968 was my first " big bike". I look at them now and they are so small lol. Post up a pic when you get a chance
 
Thread starter
Razor_imp said:
Nice looking bike!
Suggestion before firing.
-pull spark plugs & ground leads
-remove a tappet cover from both sides
-crank engine in short spurts till you see oil up by the valves

Good luck. Something tells me it's going to fire right up :D
I want to thank you for this advice. I am getting around a little better with my new dumb stupid knee:@. I did just as you suggested and am getting good clean oil up top! Soon as the temps hit 60 in my shed, I am going drain the diesel out of my gas tank, do another round of EvapOrust, put in some fresh non ethanol, and gonna see if the old girl will fire. I have good spark AND compression so wish me luck
 
Thread starter
It is alive. I have put about 200 miles on it in the last week. It is fun to kick around on.

 
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