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Keeping it under 4000 appears to be the norm during break-in.rob_imp said:300 miles for break in, but what rpm does it is say not to exceed? I pick mine up Saturday, and I'm planning my route.
shdwghst457_imp said:Makes me feel a lot less guilty about getting on it during this time! But at 1000 miles now, 60% of my time on the bike was the alleged break-in period! Had to enjoy it sometime!
yep 300 miles. Same as with my CBR250R. I was a bit surprised. They must have improved manufacturing tolerances a whole lot to where less wear in is required ?shdwghst457_imp said:I was considering the period before the 600 mile maintenance to be the break-in; is it only 300 miles?
AzBob_imp said:The modern consensus is, as far as I can tell, that the manual tells you not to be a hooligan with a new bike so you don't kill yourself and sue ("your honor, it says RIGHT IN THE MANUAL not to accelerate hard in the first 300 miles -- it's not our fault the plaintiff rode into the side of a mountain."). There's a whole lot of reasons why the "old" way of breaking engines in is no longer necessary.
Also, read this: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I didn't do anything to temper my use of this bike and mine runs perfectly with zero oil burn. Of course, as far as statistics goes, that means nothing to anyone but me.
Interesting article - thanks for sharing.AzBob_imp said:The modern consensus is, as far as I can tell, that the manual tells you not to be a hooligan with a new bike so you don't kill yourself and sue ("your honor, it says RIGHT IN THE MANUAL not to accelerate hard in the first 300 miles -- it's not our fault the plaintiff rode into the side of a mountain."). There's a whole lot of reasons why the "old" way of breaking engines in is no longer necessary.
Also, read this: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I didn't do anything to temper my use of this bike and mine runs perfectly with zero oil burn. Of course, as far as statistics goes, that means nothing to anyone but me.

OK, now I will weigh in. Yes, listen to Miguel's wrench, he is right. I ride my bike like a racebike much of the time, keeping the R's between 5-8 and sometimes getting into the red zone. It loves it. I only have 3500 miles on it but this is how I've broken in every bike since 1983 and some have had 30-40 thousand on them when I traded or sold them, and no worries.Guth_imp said:Not long after I took delivery of my CB1100, I stopped by my favorite local independent bike shop to show it off. The shop owner previously worked for Honda Racing Corporation and was Miguel Duhamel's lead technician. He has one other person on staff, who was a mechanic at a local Honda dealership for 25 years until they had to close their doors. I feel very confident in their combined knowledge and tend to pick their brains whenever I get the chance. By the the time I stopped by the shop, I probably already had a little over a hundred miles or so on the bike. When the subject of break-in came up, they said to make sure that I had it fully warmed up before doing anything too crazy and to avoid constant RPMs for long stretches. Other than that, just ride it like I normally would, and then some, even taking it up around the redline if I felt like it. Then they reiterated that I should take it easy until I was sure the engine was warmed up. Honestly, I've never tended to baby new engines all that much, although I've always tried to avoid long stretches at constant RPMs early on. Still, I was caught a little off guard by the fact that they didn't frown on visiting the upper end of the RPM range so early on. Regardless, I didn't go there right away as I rarely wind it out that much anyway. Every once in a while though it's fun to experience.
Interesting article - thanks for sharing.ingobohn_imp said:Interesting article - thanks for sharing.AzBob_imp said:The modern consensus is, as far as I can tell, that the manual tells you not to be a hooligan with a new bike so you don't kill yourself and sue ("your honor, it says RIGHT IN THE MANUAL not to accelerate hard in the first 300 miles -- it's not our fault the plaintiff rode into the side of a mountain."). There's a whole lot of reasons why the "old" way of breaking engines in is no longer necessary.
Also, read this: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I didn't do anything to temper my use of this bike and mine runs perfectly with zero oil burn. Of course, as far as statistics goes, that means nothing to anyone but me.![]()
Article is exactly correct. Break-in for the engine is 90 percent piston rings. Bearings, gears, etc. don't need to be broken-in, but the rings need to seal and mate to the cylinders, otherwise compression will be poor and the engine will use excessive amounts of oil.You kidding? Have you seen the ABS thread? :rofl:Greg_imp said:Disc brakes require proper "bedding" to work properly. Basically, this involves transferring an even layer of pad material to the surface of the rotor. The procedure for doing this is not included in any motorcycle manufacturer's break-in recommendations, for reasons similar to those for engine break-in.
Since this thread didn't erupt into a flame war over engine break-in maybe the subject of brake bedding can be maturely discussed here too!
Brake Pad Bed-in general concept
[url=http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPadBedTip.aspx]Better detail of how to do it

