Basic question, about to purchase 2013 CB1100 non-abs

[AsHperson_imp]

I found this bike on CL for 5800 which I feel is good for about 8k miles. Are there some key things to look for?

I am looking to make this my main bike for about the next several years if possible and since I live in California I've been making this possible for myself with the exception of my last bike the Triumph Street triple RS I bought new which has 2 motors go out under warranty, I am lemon-lawing it. Meanwhile since the dealership has no loaner program I was forced to buy some other bike for now to get me around. I got a 88' Hawk GT for 500 w/ 59k miles(in the last 4 months it has hit about 63k which is low for me due to the small gas tank and no gas gauge have me limited).

Would it be worth it for me to commute year-round on the CB1100 through all sorts of weather without ABS or is it not too big of an issue? Is it possible to add ABS later on in case I feel it is important? Am I stressing too much on a small subject?

I'm finding it difficult to find a fitting tire that does amazing in water, long life/dual compound, do you guys have any suggestions? I work 7 days a week so if it is a day in the year no matter how hard it rains here, I'm on my bike however I've had a lot of miles in the rain and am a lot more used to it than what I used to be.

 

[Cormanus]

G'day and welcome to the forum AsHperson. Unless you're really set on ABS, I think you'll find the non ABS bike OK. I've not heard of anyone adding it later. There may be issues with the electronics should you try to do so. One of our members learned in electronic matters may well enlighten you.

Tyres for this bike are a bit of a problem due to the 18" wheels. However, many of us have been very happy using Michelin PR3s. There's a 120 for the front and a 160 for the rear which, while slightly larger then stock fit and are the same diameter. Pirelli's Angel GT has a stock size front and a 160/70 rear which other members have used and like. I've been using the Bridgestone T31s of late and they seems fine in the wet. However, if I could still the PR3s in Australia I'd probably revert to them. Aside from being OK in the wet, they last for a long time.

 

[Randy B]

I found this bike on CL for 5800 which I feel is good for about 8k miles. Are there some key things to look for?

I am looking to make this my main bike for about the next several years if possible and since I live in California I've been making this possible for myself with the exception of my last bike the Triumph Street triple RS I bought new which has 2 motors go out under warranty, I am lemon-lawing it. Meanwhile since the dealership has no loaner program I was forced to buy some other bike for now to get me around. I got a 88' Hawk GT for 500 w/ 59k miles(in the last 4 months it has hit about 63k which is low for me due to the small gas tank and no gas gauge have me limited).

Would it be worth it for me to commute year-round on the CB1100 through all sorts of weather without ABS or is it not too big of an issue? Is it possible to add ABS later on in case I feel it is important? Am I stressing too much on a small subject?

I'm finding it difficult to find a fitting tire that does amazing in water, long life/dual compound, do you guys have any suggestions? I work 7 days a week so if it is a day in the year no matter how hard it rains here, I'm on my bike however I've had a lot of miles in the rain and am a lot more used to it than what I used to be.

I used to commute from SJ to Pleasant Hill every day in all weather conditions on my '13 non ABS and I had no issues with it. It was just about 115 miles every day for me and I was getting between 45 and 52 mpg with it. Once I went over 70 for long stretches, that was when the mileage started to drop a bit.
The bike is very reliable and with the stock BT54 tires on that commute I got over 9000 miles out of the front tire, and over 15,000 on the rear. There was tread left on both tires when I replaced them, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
The one thing that I STRONGLY suggest is a windscreen of some sort. Without one I was getting fatigued on my 55 minute commutes.

 

[jtopiso_imp]

I'd say adding ABS to a non-ABS bike (or car, for that matter) is not worth the effort: it's cheaper/easier just to sold the non-ABS vehicle to get one with it.

Wether you need ABS or not... well, I am a fan of ABS: it gives me the confidence that no matter how hard I brake the front tyre will stay put. But I had a non-ABS bike before the CB with no issues.

If I was constantly commuting in the rain, I'd much preffer an ABS bike.

 

[Blockhead_imp]

I found this bike on CL for 5800 which I feel is good for about 8k miles. Are there some key things to look for?

I am looking to make this my main bike for about the next several years if possible and since I live in California I've been making this possible for myself with the exception of my last bike the Triumph Street triple RS I bought new which has 2 motors go out under warranty, I am lemon-lawing it. Meanwhile since the dealership has no loaner program I was forced to buy some other bike for now to get me around. I got a 88' Hawk GT for 500 w/ 59k miles(in the last 4 months it has hit about 63k which is low for me due to the small gas tank and no gas gauge have me limited).

Would it be worth it for me to commute year-round on the CB1100 through all sorts of weather without ABS or is it not too big of an issue? Is it possible to add ABS later on in case I feel it is important? Am I stressing too much on a small subject?

I'm finding it difficult to find a fitting tire that does amazing in water, long life/dual compound, do you guys have any suggestions? I work 7 days a week so if it is a day in the year no matter how hard it rains here, I'm on my bike however I've had a lot of miles in the rain and am a lot more used to it than what I used to be.

Maybe the bike market in California is a lot different than where I live Western Pa. but $5800 is very pricey for that bike. That said, you will love the CB1100 if/when you get one...

 

[Lord Popgun]

Welcome Ash!
Adding ABS would cost you a small fortune. At minimum you'd need an ABS modulator, new calipers, hoses, new wiring harness, sensor ring and sensor for front wheel. And all those parts cost. Buy a bike with ABS if you can't live without it.

 

[Gone in 60]

I just bought a ‘13 non-abs in California with under 2k miles for much less than what you’re considering. Perhaps holding out for an abs bike in your price range might be a consideration. I waited about a month before my bike came along from the time I started looking for one.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

$5800? Wow. That's a $4000 bike around here (and a great motorcycle at that)!

 

[AsHperson_imp]

G'day and welcome to the forum AsHperson. Unless you're really set on ABS, I think you'll find the non ABS bike OK. I've not heard of anyone adding it later. There may be issues with the electronics should you try to do so. One of our members learned in electronic matters may well enlighten you.

Tyres for this bike are a bit of a problem due to the 18" wheels. However, many of us have been very happy using Michelin PR3s. There's a 120 for the front and a 160 for the rear which, while slightly larger then stock fit and are the same diameter. Pirelli's Angel GT has a stock size front and a 160/70 rear which other members have used and like. I've been using the Bridgestone T31s of late and they seems fine in the wet. However, if I could still the PR3s in Australia I'd probably revert to them. Aside from being OK in the wet, they last for a long time.

Thanks for the welcome dude! As far as the abs goes I'm not too concerned since I can manage perfectly well with good tires. I haven't been able to find the PR5, 4 or 3 have an 18" in the rear. I work at CG so I get some good discounts and have access to multiple distributors. I haven't considered the T31 because of the 160 but now I know it will work I will greatly consider them as my next. I don't plan on going Angel GT due to having the GT 2 on my Hawk GT and it has wobbly handling on the rain grooves of the road which annoys me to no end however I will live with until the tread finally leaves the tire. It has had good wet performance however there isn't much power behind my Hawk GT to make rain all that dangerous to begin with.
I had the Road 5 on my Street Triple RS and only got to use it for about 5 months until the bike turned into a lemon and triumph may finally come around off their lazy butt to buy the bike off me(long story short, original and first replacement motor failed me and they refused to replace it again since they are about to settle and I'm getting impatient.)

I found this bike on CL for 5800 which I feel is good for about 8k miles. Are there some key things to look for?

I am looking to make this my main bike for about the next several years if possible and since I live in California I've been making this possible for myself with the exception of my last bike the Triumph Street triple RS I bought new which has 2 motors go out under warranty, I am lemon-lawing it. Meanwhile since the dealership has no loaner program I was forced to buy some other bike for now to get me around. I got a 88' Hawk GT for 500 w/ 59k miles(in the last 4 months it has hit about 63k which is low for me due to the small gas tank and no gas gauge have me limited).

Would it be worth it for me to commute year-round on the CB1100 through all sorts of weather without ABS or is it not too big of an issue? Is it possible to add ABS later on in case I feel it is important? Am I stressing too much on a small subject?

I'm finding it difficult to find a fitting tire that does amazing in water, long life/dual compound, do you guys have any suggestions? I work 7 days a week so if it is a day in the year no matter how hard it rains here, I'm on my bike however I've had a lot of miles in the rain and am a lot more used to it than what I used to be.

I used to commute from SJ to Pleasant Hill every day in all weather conditions on my '13 non ABS and I had no issues with it. It was just about 115 miles every day for me and I was getting between 45 and 52 mpg with it. Once I went over 70 for long stretches, that was when the mileage started to drop a bit.
The bike is very reliable and with the stock BT54 tires on that commute I got over 9000 miles out of the front tire, and over 15,000 on the rear. There was tread left on both tires when I replaced them, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
The one thing that I STRONGLY suggest is a windscreen of some sort. Without one I was getting fatigued on my 55 minute commutes.

I used to commute from SJ to Pleasant Hill every day in all weather conditions on my '13 non ABS and I had no issues with it. It was just about 115 miles every day for me and I was getting between 45 and 52 mpg with it. Once I went over 70 for long stretches, that was when the mileage started to drop a bit.
The bike is very reliable and with the stock BT54 tires on that commute I got over 9000 miles out of the front tire, and over 15,000 on the rear. There was tread left on both tires when I replaced them, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
The one thing that I STRONGLY suggest is a windscreen of some sort. Without one I was getting fatigued on my 55 minute commutes.
That's awesome and makes me feel relieved about the commute since I don't go as far but I hit the northbound mountain view traffic everyday from sj which is pretty terrible. Those BT45 tires look pretty good tbh and I may stick with them but I'll probably explore around and see what I feel is the best one after another. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add a puig windscreen to my list to buy for the bike. First to buy are crash bars then windscreen then yoshi slip-on then adaptive headlight! I know very well how much a proper windscreen matters I was just a bit worried with how dorky it may look since I haven't seen it on the bike before.

I'd say adding ABS to a non-ABS bike (or car, for that matter) is not worth the effort: it's cheaper/easier just to sold the non-ABS vehicle to get one with it.

Wether you need ABS or not... well, I am a fan of ABS: it gives me the confidence that no matter how hard I brake the front tyre will stay put. But I had a non-ABS bike before the CB with no issues.

If I was constantly commuting in the rain, I'd much preffer an ABS bike.

Thanks for the input, I think I'll try to stick with the non-abs for several years and if it is cost effective at the time and I have the money aside to trade up then I will!

I found this bike on CL for 5800 which I feel is good for about 8k miles. Are there some key things to look for?

I am looking to make this my main bike for about the next several years if possible and since I live in California I've been making this possible for myself with the exception of my last bike the Triumph Street triple RS I bought new which has 2 motors go out under warranty, I am lemon-lawing it. Meanwhile since the dealership has no loaner program I was forced to buy some other bike for now to get me around. I got a 88' Hawk GT for 500 w/ 59k miles(in the last 4 months it has hit about 63k which is low for me due to the small gas tank and no gas gauge have me limited).

Would it be worth it for me to commute year-round on the CB1100 through all sorts of weather without ABS or is it not too big of an issue? Is it possible to add ABS later on in case I feel it is important? Am I stressing too much on a small subject?

I'm finding it difficult to find a fitting tire that does amazing in water, long life/dual compound, do you guys have any suggestions? I work 7 days a week so if it is a day in the year no matter how hard it rains here, I'm on my bike however I've had a lot of miles in the rain and am a lot more used to it than what I used to be.

Maybe the bike market in California is a lot different than where I live Western Pa. but $5800 is very pricey for that bike. That said, you will love the CB1100 if/when you get one...

Maybe the bike market in California is a lot different than where I live Western Pa. but $5800 is very pricey for that bike. That said, you will love the CB1100 if/when you get one...
I find myself in a position to get a new bike where I am currently stuck and cramped on my Hawk GT, feeling like it has such little power, making the neutral sensor light up is a major pain sometime to get it started back up after short breaks. This is the only CB1100 I've ever seen on the market or anything japanese in that kinda of category(excluding xsr700/900). I haven't seen anything cheaper even though I'd like it cheaper and I don't have much patience going on the Hawk everyday. I've looked around all somewhat close dealerships used inventory as well too with no luck.

Welcome Ash!
Adding ABS would cost you a small fortune. At minimum you'd need an ABS modulator, new calipers, hoses, new wiring harness, sensor ring and sensor for front wheel. And all those parts cost. Buy a bike with ABS if you can't live without it.

Called up a dealer yesterday asking about this and got the same answer, I'm getting over having abs anyways too.

I just bought a ‘13 non-abs in California with under 2k miles for much less than what you’re considering. Perhaps holding out for an abs bike in your price range might be a consideration. I waited about a month before my bike came along from the time I started looking for one.

I've gone a bit far into the deal anyways, I wish I had known before and I had waited a little longer. I'd feel terrible should I back out of it at this point. Thanks for letting me know should I convince someone else to get this bike I'll pass this on.

 

[Randy B]

This is my '13. I have changed a few things and added a few things.

 

[AsHperson_imp]

This is my '13. I have changed a few things and added a few things.

Looks nice! What windshield is that and how high does it push the wind when sitting upright?

 

[Frulk_imp]

You ask if a 2013 with approx. 8,000 miles is worth $5,800. I have the exact same bike you're asking about.

I could give you the standard answer that the bike is worth what you're willing to pay for it. However, in this case, that's only partially sufficient. I paid $8700-8900 (not sure which one it was..prob $8900) out the door for my left over 2013 that was built up for me from a crate.

The 2013 non-ABS CB1100 sold n northern Utah at its introduction for $10,900.

Having put almost 20K miles on it I have the following opinion of the value of this bike. Yes, you can buy this bike cheaper depending on where you're at and if the timing is right. But, that doesn't mean that $5800 is out of line for a bike that offers the following. Anvil like reliability. Strong dealer network. Able to be pressed into service in a number of roles and do them well. Better than average looks. Exclusivity (if you need it). Few (if any) faults. A motor that produces low end torque with no drama. I could go on but you get the point.

A well taken care of CB1100 with 8K miles is barely broken in. Might be looking at new tires and an oil change. Valves are recommended to be checked at that point and that can run $600+/- and might just be ONE of the reasons this bike went on sale. However, if you check our valve clearance thread on this site many of us have gone well past 15K (myself at 19K), before having them checked and had no issues.

Regardless of what you MAY be able to buy this bike for in other areas of the country, you still get a LOT of bike for the money.

Knowing what I know now about the bike after having ridden one for almost 20K miles, if for some reason mine was stolen I would want to replace it with another one ASAP. If the only one that came along had 8K miles on it and was $5800 (but it was in well cared for shape) I'd jump on it. I WANT a CB1100 in my garage.

Here is a link to the cheapest CB1100 for sale on a very popular local Utah site. they currently have 3-4 CB's for sale. it has 4,500 miles and asking price is $5750. it's been for sale for a long time at that price.

https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/55049590

 

[Cormanus]

AsHperson, the T31s come in the stock size. At least they do in Australia. I have a vague recollection that they may not be available in the US.

 

[Randy B]

This is my '13. I have changed a few things and added a few things.

Looks nice! What windshield is that and how high does it push the wind when sitting upright?

Looks nice! What windshield is that and how high does it push the wind when sitting upright?
That is a Road Comet I with a touring windscreen. It probably hit me just above my chin if I sit up straight, but it's not bad at all. Getting the wind off of my chest was a LARGE relief.
Here is a better picture of it.

 

[Frulk_imp]

Road Comets (V's 1 and 2) are pretty popular with this owners group and come up for sale on the forum from time to time. This RC2 has the low windshield in smoke

 

[LongRanger_imp]

AsHperson, the T31s come in the stock size. At least they do in Australia. I have a vague recollection that they may not be available in the US.

Cormanus, correct, the rear T31 is not available in the stock 140/70R-18 in the U.S.

 

[AsHperson_imp]

You ask if a 2013 with approx. 8,000 miles is worth $5,800. I have the exact same bike you're asking about.

I could give you the standard answer that the bike is worth what you're willing to pay for it. However, in this case, that's only partially sufficient. I paid $8700-8900 (not sure which one it was..prob $8900) out the door for my left over 2013 that was built up for me from a crate.

The 2013 non-ABS CB1100 sold n northern Utah at its introduction for $10,900.

Having put almost 20K miles on it I have the following opinion of the value of this bike. Yes, you can buy this bike cheaper depending on where you're at and if the timing is right. But, that doesn't mean that $5800 is out of line for a bike that offers the following. Anvil like reliability. Strong dealer network. Able to be pressed into service in a number of roles and do them well. Better than average looks. Exclusivity (if you need it). Few (if any) faults. A motor that produces low end torque with no drama. I could go on but you get the point.

A well taken care of CB1100 with 8K miles is barely broken in. Might be looking at new tires and an oil change. Valves are recommended to be checked at that point and that can run $600+/- and might just be ONE of the reasons this bike went on sale. However, if you check our valve clearance thread on this site many of us have gone well past 15K (myself at 19K), before having them checked and had no issues.

Regardless of what you MAY be able to buy this bike for in other areas of the country, you still get a LOT of bike for the money.

Knowing what I know now about the bike after having ridden one for almost 20K miles, if for some reason mine was stolen I would want to replace it with another one ASAP. If the only one that came along had 8K miles on it and was $5800 (but it was in well cared for shape) I'd jump on it. I WANT a CB1100 in my garage.

Here is a link to the cheapest CB1100 for sale on a very popular local Utah site. they currently have 3-4 CB's for sale. it has 4,500 miles and asking price is $5750. it's been for sale for a long time at that price.

https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/55049590

I was thinking this exact thing. Originally I was going to wait for Triumph to pay me off, wait for my credit to settle some then I was planning on heading over to PCP Motorsports to ask for a deal on a Tracer GT with a full system Yoshi Y series exaust. I'd be under financial burden under that for another 5 years or real financial burden for 3 years. I found myself browsing Craigslist and saw the CB1100 2013 thinking it was just an older version of the new cb1000r due to the styling then after some research I found it was a little different with the seat and all. I remember test riding the Triumph Thruxton and I won't stand for their reliability personally anymore but I know my hawk just won't die as well as many other Japanese bikes. I'm only getting more and more excited to finally get a bike that will last forever that I will actually enjoy the highway miles I end up putting on it!

Tldr; the cb1100 is a lot less than the Tracer 900GT and will be paid off sooner than later. That matters to me.