Another High Idle Problem

[max]

Nice work MTC, like yourself i am glad this went without too much hassle, service seems prompt and accurate.
Hope you still have the old unit, you just never know and you did pay for it, remember?......

 

[emptysea]

cuss. Forgot to take it. I’ll see if they still have it. Totally forgot.

Any machine behaviours that are improved or old ones missing since the ECU transplant?

Seemed normal for the 12 miles I rode. Big improvement over when the idle was high, though. Hope to ride a bit tomorrow and a bit more on Sunday. I don’t anticipate much change from what I’m used to, but there might be a little change as it learns my Yosh exhaust. We’ll see

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

cuss. Forgot to take it. I’ll see if they still have it. Totally forgot.

Any machine behaviours that are improved or old ones missing since the ECU transplant?

Seemed normal for the 12 miles I rode. Big improvement over when the idle was high, though. Hope to ride a bit tomorrow and a bit more on Sunday. I don’t anticipate much change from what I’m used to, but there might be a little change as it learns my Yosh exhaust. We’ll see

Seemed normal for the 12 miles I rode. Big improvement over when the idle was high, though. Hope to ride a bit tomorrow and a bit more on Sunday. I don’t anticipate much change from what I’m used to, but there might be a little change as it learns my Yosh exhaust. We’ll see
Sounds like good news.

RE old ECU: A quick phone call to the shop should help quickly sort that out.

 

[Cormanus]

I'm pleased to hear you're reunited with your steed, MTC. Enjoy it.

 

[j3gq_imp]

@MTC really happy for you !!
Did you learn anything in the process about whether ECU's are model specific or all the same ?

I am very happy that your problem does not cost you a fortune , pleasures in life cost money.

I would call it "the pleasure in life which we have adopted in our culture cost money". Why ? Because anything you create yourself, you design, you build, you test and use, can do much better. But we have deliberately installed bumpers along that way. :angel:

And you do not want to be the richest man in the cemetery.

I'd like to be at around minus a million and a half that day, but this can't be done without life insurance
If however I could ask everybody in the country for a small donation, with a small percentage going to my lawyers, an most of it for my own projects, such as ECU's and more, ... what a field day !

 

[peterbaron]

cuss. Forgot to take it. I’ll see if they still have it. Totally forgot.

Any machine behaviours that are improved or old ones missing since the ECU transplant?

Seemed normal for the 12 miles I rode. Big improvement over when the idle was high, though. Hope to ride a bit tomorrow and a bit more on Sunday. I don’t anticipate much change from what I’m used to, but there might be a little change as it learns my Yosh exhaust. We’ll see

Matt, I'd like to know if you still have your old ECM ?

 

[Nachodaddy]

My bike is already taken to someone — it’s in the shop now, presumably with the old ECU removed. Also, I don’t know how to perform the reset that you describe. I have no doubt that it’s within my abilities, but my comment about asking the tech to do this was because I have neither the instructions nor the bike in my possession at this time.

You can do it, it's DIY without any special tool:
* If possible warm up the bike to get normal operating temp and idling (not necessary)
* Ignition OFF/key out from the ignition switch
* Disconnect both battery cables from the battery terminals, the negative cable first.
* Cover both battery terminals with a plastic bag/rag to prevent accidental cable to terminal reattachment.
* Join both cables (- &+) together for about 10 minutes. If the battery cables are too short, jumper wire can be used.
* Reconnect both cables back to the battery terminals, the positive cable first, then the negative.
* Ignition ON, wait until meters sweeping is completed 2-3 sec, start your bike and observe idling......

You can do it, it's DIY without any special tool:
* If possible warm up the bike to get normal operating temp and idling (not necessary)
* Ignition OFF/key out from the ignition switch
* Disconnect both battery cables from the battery terminals, the negative cable first.
* Cover both battery terminals with a plastic bag/rag to prevent accidental cable to terminal reattachment.
* Join both cables (- &+) together for about 10 minutes. If the battery cables are too short, jumper wire can be used.
* Reconnect both cables back to the battery terminals, the positive cable first, then the negative.
* Ignition ON, wait until meters sweeping is completed 2-3 sec, start your bike and observe idling...... Peter, I can't say for certain that you solved my high-idle problem, but it looks good at this point.
I had exactly the same problem on my '13 that MTC describes. Started a few months ago before it got hot here. So today I ran your ECU reset as described above and went for a ride. Bike ran as it is supposed to. Ambient air temp at around 96F and it was a relatively short ride, but enough stop and go to learn that the idle stayed at around 1200 to 1400 and never went up to 2000. This is very different from a few weeks ago when it would go to 2K when I stopped at the first stop sign a half mile from my house and repeat for the entire ride.
How could it be that simple? I hope it is. Also highly recommend this approach for any who have the high-idle problem.
PowerDubs, you were right, but this looks a little less expensive than replacing the ECU. Of course, if I were running a shop, I'd recommend that my mechanics replace the ECU just for liability protection.
Thanks again, Peter.

 

[peterbaron]

Frank, any MPI component is replaced or disconnected, battery replaced or disconnected, ATM or engine replacement should have reseting residual values performed.
Some vehicles are more or less sensitive, some are not at all.
Would like to hear your feedback after riding or driving for at least few drive cycles and several ignition cycles if permanently cured.
This is not a repair, but a simple reset without any special tool that anyone can do at home at no cost.
If a MPI component is defective and needs replacement this procedure is not a substitute but should be performed after.
At work, I use a special tool that can do this procedure within 10 - 30 seconds., for an engine or/and transmission.
:beerchug:

 

[Nachodaddy]

Peter, thank you for the follow-up. I will post as I go along about how it is going. Don't expect too much until after September, as it is too hot to ride much right now, at least for me. When I get up about 0430, it is usually about 80-85F, but by the time I go for a five mile walk and have breakfast, it is 92-95 and I don't enjoy riding much at those temperatures. Then it warms up. Also, I am not sure what effect the high temperatures have on the idle. This procedure is good to know when disconnecting the battery or installing accessories. Thanks.

 

[Nachodaddy]

Re-setting the ECU is the solution to the high idle problem. I followed Peter Baron's procedure day-before-yesterday and rode the bike every day since. This morning's ride was the absolute best, mostly because there was no traffic and I could pay close attention to the instruments and the way the bike functioned. Basically, it idled at 1100 after it warmed up and the needle never moved from there every time I stopped. The bike ran flawlessly and like a new bike. I am so happy to have my bike back and I will tell everyone to re-set their ECU any time they have an idle problem. It may not be the answer to their problem, but it is so easy and quick that it should be the first thing on the trouble-shooting list when you have a problem.
And all this time I thought an ECU was an exotic bird in Australia.
I haven't been so happy since I found out I could wear shoes riding a naked bike.

Frank, any MPI component is replaced or disconnected, battery replaced or disconnected, ATM or engine replacement should have reseting residual values performed.
Some vehicles are more or less sensitive, some are not at all.
Would like to hear your feedback after riding or driving for at least few drive cycles and several ignition cycles if permanently cured.
This is not a repair, but a simple reset without any special tool that anyone can do at home at no cost.
If a MPI component is defective and needs replacement this procedure is not a substitute but should be performed after.
At work, I use a special tool that can do this procedure within 10 - 30 seconds., for an engine or/and transmission.
:beerchug:

Peter, I can't thank you enough. What is MPI and ATM? Sorry, but I am not familiar with these terms. I did enough research to learn that an ECU is not an exotic bird found in Australia, but can't figure these out.
My bike is running like a new bike. This morning's ride was perfect. 1100 RPM every time I rolled to a stop. Formerly, it would go right to 2,000.
As I said earlier, this procedure should be the first step anytime something weird starts happening on the CB1100. I cannot believe the Honda technicians don't try it first with all the people who have had this problem. It just seems like it should be first thing on their trouble-shooting list.
Sure is a lot cheaper than installing a new IACV and/or ECU.

 

[peterbaron]

MPI = multi port injection or commonly known as fuel injection.
ATM = automatic transmission/ transaxle.

 

[Nachodaddy]

MPI = multi port injection or commonly known as fuel injection.
ATM = automatic transmission/ transaxle.

Ah! Okay, thanks for helping me with that, Peter.

 

[Nachodaddy]

Follow-up on my fast idle fix. Short rides each morning since re-setting the ECU as per Peter Baron's guidelines. Bike always goes to about 1600rpm for a short time after start-up, then consistently idles at 1100rpm after that. I will let you know in another week how it is running, but it is getting too hot to enjoy riding now, so I won't be posting much until the end of September. I am very happy and relieved to have my bike running (and idling) like it should be again.

 

[peterbaron]

Ok, cold start up and higher RPM according to the engine temp seems normality

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Follow-up on my fast idle fix. Short rides each morning since re-setting the ECU as per Peter Baron's guidelines. Bike always goes to about 1600rpm for a short time after start-up, then consistently idles at 1100rpm after that. I will let you know in another week how it is running, but it is getting too hot to enjoy riding now, so I won't be posting much until the end of September. I am very happy and relieved to have my bike running (and idling) like it should be again.

You should see the CB1100 RPM on a -25C winter morning. It will idle quite high for at least five minutes before eventually settling down to operating idle after 10 minutes. No ECU reset ever required.

Profuse hot, humid summers off-ramping after long freeway run tended to idle in the opposite direction as the engine and fueling gasped for cool air. Idle sometimes dips below 1000 before eventually recovering to normal idle rate.

 

[peterbaron]

Don’t remember when we had - 25*C in the GTA… and starting any of my CBs would qualify as a harm

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Don’t remember when we had - 25*C in the GTA… and starting any of my CBs would qualify as a harm

Every winter PB. You'd know when you go for a ride.

 

[Nachodaddy]

Don’t remember when we had - 25*C in the GTA… and starting any of my CBs would qualify as a harm

This was the last time I started an engine in those temperatures. Thule, Greenland, 1960. No motorcycles, but that old Dodge was a lot of fun on the ice. My bike won't see anything close to freezing where I live, but I'd rather ride in 35F than 95F. I can put on more clothes, but folks get all excited and mean when I start taking them off, for some reason. As I write, it is 101F, and the bike doesn't need much time to warm up.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Don’t remember when we had - 25*C in the GTA… and starting any of my CBs would qualify as a harm

This was the last time I started an engine in those temperatures. Thule, Greenland, 1960. No motorcycles, but that old Dodge was a lot of fun on the ice. My bike won't see anything close to freezing where I live, but I'd rather ride in 35F than 95F. I can put on more clothes, but folks get all excited and mean when I start taking them off, for some reason. As I write, it is 101F, and the bike doesn't need much time to warm up.

This was the last time I started an engine in those temperatures. Thule, Greenland, 1960. No motorcycles, but that old Dodge was a lot of fun on the ice. My bike won't see anything close to freezing where I live, but I'd rather ride in 35F than 95F. I can put on more clothes, but folks get all excited and mean when I start taking them off, for some reason. As I write, it is 101F, and the bike doesn't need much time to warm up.
Amen. Cold weather riding is more manageable than ultra hot, though, you might need to deal with road salt (or not - just leave it for spring).

 

[the Ferret]

I deal with heat better than cold, or at least did until I got electric gear. I HATE cold. I froze on the 60 degree days on the ND trip and had to borrow a sweatshirt, was comfortable on the mid 80degree days and kinda warm on the day it hit 102.