An oil thread that (Maybe) is different.

[quail_imp]

I changed my oil and filter at 400 miles. Why you ask? Because I do not like to let the orig oil run any longer than that in any new engine. I know that the metal that wears off everything while breaking in flows around with the oil, so I get it out. I do not want to talk about anything I have said up to this point!

I changed my oil and filter at 400 miles. I have seen this before and always wonder what it is I am really looking at. The old oil seems to have a slight metallic sheen to it. It even seems to be made up of two dissimilar fluids that really do not like to mix in the drain pan. Some of it likes to float like froth on beer. (You know it is just beer but it is lighter in color and wants to just sit on top.) As I swirl the pan it does not want to mix together easily. What as I looking at? Is the slight metallic sheen on the first old change normal? The metal does not settle out when it sits. I think it is light metal like aluminum.

For those of you that want to know... I used Honda 10w30, and noticed no change in anything. I do not want to talk about that either.

 

[Cormanus]

I changed my oil and filter at 400 miles. Why you ask? Because I do not like to let the orig oil run any longer than that in any new engine. I know that the metal that wears off everything while breaking in flows around with the oil, so I get it out. I do not want to talk about anything I have said up to this point!

I changed my oil and filter at 400 miles. I have seen this before and always wonder what it is I am really looking at. The old oil seems to have a slight metallic sheen to it. It even seems to be made up of two dissimilar fluids that really do not like to mix in the drain pan. Some of it likes to float like froth on beer. (You know it is just beer but it is lighter in color and wants to just sit on top.) As I swirl the pan it does not want to mix together easily. What as I looking at? Is the slight metallic sheen on the first old change normal? The metal does not settle out when it sits. I think it is light metal like aluminum.

For those of you that want to know... I used Honda 10w30, and noticed no change in anything. I do not want to talk about that either.

Mate, I can add little by way of an informative response; but I have to hand it to you. Adroit cast, with an elegant flick of the wrist, landing the fly inches from the fish's nose. I've made myself a cup of tea and pulled up a chair to see how you get on.

 

[Lord Popgun]

If you want to know exactly what is in the oil, you have to send off a sample and get an oil analysis. If you start when the engine is new, you can get a baseline to compare to future samples.

 

[kmoney_imp]

The metal glow could actually be metal. I've seen this before. I wouldn't really worry about it -- run a magnet through it if you want to see if it's ferrous or not... You may also want to cut the old filter apart to make sure there isn't metal left in the filter media.

I doubt it's a problem. As mentioned about you can also shell out $20 or so for used oil analysis if you want to make sure.

 

[Inhouse Bob]

Seems that if you change the oil to remove all the metal partials left over from break-in, you shouldn't be too surprised to see metal partials in the oil, no? The second liquid you see might well be a bit of moisture. Anyhow, that's my totally uneducated guess :angel:

 

[quail_imp]

Seems that if you change the oil to remove all the metal partials left over from break-in, you shouldn't be too surprised to see metal partials in the oil, no? The second liquid you see might well be a bit of moisture. Anyhow, that's my totally uneducated guess :angel:

I was not surprised to see the partials, just wondering if I am seeing what I think I am and has others noticed this same thing. The one thing I did not mention was, I let the bike sit for 24 hours before I pulled the plug. That would explain why they were not mixed when they hit the pan. I always have a hard time believing moisture can exist very long in an engine running 200 -250 degrees. You would think it would gas out.

The metal glow could actually be metal. I've seen this before. I wouldn't really worry about it -- run a magnet through it if you want to see if it's ferrous or not... You may also want to cut the old filter apart to make sure there isn't metal left in the filter media.

I doubt it's a problem. As mentioned about you can also shell out $20 or so for used oil analysis if you want to make sure.

All of these ideas are good. The fact I tossed the filter in a fire and dumped the oil in my waste oil drum makes me sad.

 

[Retsel_imp]

Actually any particuls left from the break-in, large enough to cause any premature wear, should be picked up by the filter. Unless there is so much that the filter clogs, and goes into bypass, there is nothing to be concerned with. I am pretty sure every engine is run and drained, at least once, before shipping so there is little chance of a high metal partical content on a well built engine.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

 

[Motogeezer1949_imp]

Metal particles in your oil? I gotta see this

 

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Actually any particuls left from the break-in, large enough to cause any premature wear, should be picked up by the filter. Unless there is so much that the filter clogs, and goes into bypass, there is nothing to be concerned with. I am pretty sure every engine is run and drained, at least once, before shipping so there is little chance of a high metal partical content on a well built engine.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

Yep; I've seen that sheen and metal particles in every new bike I've owned. Just changed the oil in my track bike after only 400 track miles, it was deep gray, from clutch material and heavy use. Tiny shards of metal on the drain plug magnet.

All perfectly normal and usual.

Ride with confidence, all is well.

Addendum, I always change my oil after the bike has cooled completely. Stuff does separate out a bit. Ensures the pan has collected all the oil from the top end, keeps me from burning my fingers. Takes a bit longer to drain but who's in a hurry?

Anyone else fill the filter before installing it?

Oh yeah, 10W-30 is great, what Honda recommends. Temps get to >90 F then 10W-40 is no problem, manual shows this. I run that, it's really hot here much of the time. Still works in cold temps, too.

 

[quail_imp]

Actually any particuls left from the break-in, large enough to cause any premature wear, should be picked up by the filter. Unless there is so much that the filter clogs, and goes into bypass, there is nothing to be concerned with. I am pretty sure every engine is run and drained, at least once, before shipping so there is little chance of a high metal partical content on a well built engine.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

Yep; I've seen that sheen and metal particles in every new bike I've owned. Just changed the oil in my track bike after only 400 track miles, it was deep gray, from clutch material and heavy use. Tiny shards of metal on the drain plug magnet.

All perfectly normal and usual.

Ride with confidence, all is well.

Addendum, I always change my oil after the bike has cooled completely. Stuff does separate out a bit. Ensures the pan has collected all the oil from the top end, keeps me from burning my fingers. Takes a bit longer to drain but who's in a hurry?

Anyone else fill the filter before installing it?

Oh yeah, 10W-30 is great, what Honda recommends. Temps get to >90 F then 10W-40 is no problem, manual shows this. I run that, it's really hot here much of the time. Still works in cold temps, too.

Yep; I've seen that sheen and metal particles in every new bike I've owned. Just changed the oil in my track bike after only 400 track miles, it was deep gray, from clutch material and heavy use. Tiny shards of metal on the drain plug magnet.

All perfectly normal and usual
Ride with confidence, all is well.

Addendum, I always change my oil after the bike has cooled completely. Stuff does separate out a bit. Ensures the pan has collected all the oil from the top end, keeps me from burning my fingers. Takes a bit longer to drain but who's in a hurry?

Anyone else fill the filter before installing it?

Oh yeah, 10W-30 is great, what Honda recommends. Temps get to >90 F then 10W-40 is no problem, manual shows this. I run that, it's really hot here much of the time. Still works in cold temps, too.
I never considered the clutch material and clutch plates. Nice to hear from someone that has seen the same thing. I always fill filters, why not, can't hurt and could help.

 

[kmoney_imp]

I always pre-fill the filter. It's not like you're going to run dry and break the oil film in the time it takes to fill from dry on first start, but why not help it out as much as possible.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Quail. Mate, your oil is eating up your motor. Do yourself a big, big favour; change the filter, put a banana in a food blender then add it to 4 litres of oil. Fill the bike with the aforementioned oil-banana mix. Then, under an assumed name, and from across the state border, sell the flamin' bike .

Cheers

 

[Lord Popgun]

Did Ptero just give the formula for Hubris oil???

I always pre-fill my filter too.

 

[mininsx_imp]

I would post a reply but you said you didn't want to talk about it.

 

[Ulvetanna_imp]

I always pre-fill the filter. It's not like you're going to run dry and break the oil film in the time it takes to fill from dry on first start, but why not help it out as much as possible.

I actually had not done that since 1970's when I used to work on my Ford Galaxie 500, a 352 V8 four-door. I learned that from a Clymer manual, I think. So it occurred to me to start doing it again with motorcycles just last week.

Very surprising just how much oil is absorbed into that small motorcycle filter. Can't really "fill" it because it's installed horizontally but can get quite a bit in there, several ounces.

As you say, it fills very rapidly from the oil pump, but I figure the oil level will be more accurate after the first warmup and level check. Add less to top it off.

I notice some filters come with a layer of grease on the O-ring, some you need to coat with oil.

We have recycling facilities here, they take the filters and waste oil so don't need to throw it in a fire, lol.

Used to burn our trash back on the farm in the 1960's though. I guess the fire thing would be good, it would burn off all the old oil.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Did Ptero just give the formula for Hubris oil???

I always pre-fill my filter too.

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers

 

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Did Ptero just give the formula for Hubris oil???

I always pre-fill my filter too.

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers The oil was warm when I commenced my oil changes. I just let it settle for a while, like overnight. Sort of like letting a fine wine breathe. Then again, ambient temperature here in my garage is already warm. I order antipasto and espresso prior to changing my oil, too, to set the mood, of course.

I am pretty sure there is going to be more oil in the sump to be drained after letting it settle overnight than, say after a couple of hours. It doesn't retreat back into the engine when it gets cold.
Hey, we found a new Web debate. I searched on hot vs. cold drain and voila! Tons of argumentation about it.

So, since the engine is hot when we turn it off, the longer we leave it alone, the more oil can drain from the upper portions as well as the oil cooler. If we are not in a huge hurry, we just let it drain from the sump for a longer period of time until it just drips very slowly.

I know on my last change, I had to put about four quarts in total, and it was exactly on the upper fill level mark (properly measured, yes) when I started. I also filled the filter. I think the oil cooler drained at least partially by allowing it to sit overnight.

Some claim warm oil will carry more of the suspended particles you want to get rid of, but in truth that is the filter's job and there is always something on the bottom of the sump that can't be drained no matter when we drain the oil, red-hot or room temperature.

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

^^^^. Hey, you are good. You should write a Service Manual.

Cheers
Word of the day: Viscosity.

 

[Cormanus]

Did Ptero just give the formula for Hubris oil???

I always pre-fill my filter too.

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers The oil was warm when I commenced my oil changes. I just let it settle for a while, like overnight. Sort of like letting a fine wine breathe. Then again, ambient temperature here in my garage is already warm. I order antipasto and espresso prior to changing my oil, too, to set the mood, of course.

I am pretty sure there is going to be more oil in the sump to be drained after letting it settle overnight than, say after a couple of hours. It doesn't retreat back into the engine when it gets cold.
Hey, we found a new Web debate. I searched on hot vs. cold drain and voila! Tons of argumentation about it.

So, since the engine is hot when we turn it off, the longer we leave it alone, the more oil can drain from the upper portions as well as the oil cooler. If we are not in a huge hurry, we just let it drain from the sump for a longer period of time until it just drips very slowly.

I know on my last change, I had to put about four quarts in total, and it was exactly on the upper fill level mark (properly measured, yes) when I started. I also filled the filter. I think the oil cooler drained at least partially by allowing it to sit overnight.

Some claim warm oil will carry more of the suspended particles you want to get rid of, but in truth that is the filter's job and there is always something on the bottom of the sump that can't be drained no matter when we drain the oil, red-hot or room temperature.

Blimey! This has got me thinking. No more figuring how to change the oil quickly. Henceforth, I'll come in from a ride, decant a bottle of shiraz, get the brie, blue and other cheeses (maybe some antipasto too) from the fridge and take a shower. By then the bike should be cool enough to remove the drain plug which I will do.

While I drink the red, eat the cheese and antipasto and then sleep it all off, the oil can drain away.

Thank you. Changing oil may just have become slightly more of a pleasure than a pain.

And, respectfully, may I suggest that, rather than discussing the temperature of the oil as it drains, we have a thread on menus to drain sumps by? I'm hoping it will be less inflammatory.

 

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Did Ptero just give the formula for Hubris oil???

I always pre-fill my filter too.

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers

Well that information is classified as "Commercial - FMEO". However let me say, and let's keep this just between you, me and the fence post Pops, that Hubris Omni Grade is, despite being a full synthetic, nutritional and low-GI. In keeping with recent customer demands it is now guaranteed gluten free. No need for the motorcycle equivalent of coprophilia when using Hubris Omni Grade (CB1100 Blend).

Cheers
And for information, all Honda, and other manufacturers, service manuals require the engine, and presumably the oil contained therein, to be warm on commencing an oil change. But what would those turkeys know; they make 'em, we break 'em .

Cheers The oil was warm when I commenced my oil changes. I just let it settle for a while, like overnight. Sort of like letting a fine wine breathe. Then again, ambient temperature here in my garage is already warm. I order antipasto and espresso prior to changing my oil, too, to set the mood, of course.

I am pretty sure there is going to be more oil in the sump to be drained after letting it settle overnight than, say after a couple of hours. It doesn't retreat back into the engine when it gets cold.
Hey, we found a new Web debate. I searched on hot vs. cold drain and voila! Tons of argumentation about it.

So, since the engine is hot when we turn it off, the longer we leave it alone, the more oil can drain from the upper portions as well as the oil cooler. If we are not in a huge hurry, we just let it drain from the sump for a longer period of time until it just drips very slowly.

I know on my last change, I had to put about four quarts in total, and it was exactly on the upper fill level mark (properly measured, yes) when I started. I also filled the filter. I think the oil cooler drained at least partially by allowing it to sit overnight.

Some claim warm oil will carry more of the suspended particles you want to get rid of, but in truth that is the filter's job and there is always something on the bottom of the sump that can't be drained no matter when we drain the oil, red-hot or room temperature.

Blimey! This has got me thinking. No more figuring how to change the oil quickly. Henceforth, I'll come in from a ride, decant a bottle of shiraz, get the brie, blue and other cheeses (maybe some antipasto too) from the fridge and take a shower. By then the bike should be cool enough to remove the drain plug which I will do.

While I drink the red, eat the cheese and antipasto and then sleep it all off, the oil can drain away.

Thank you. Changing oil may just have become slightly more of a pleasure than a pain.

And, respectfully, may I suggest that, rather than discussing the temperature of the oil as it drains, we have a thread on menus to drain sumps by? I'm hoping it will be less inflammatory.

Blimey! This has got me thinking. No more figuring how to change the oil quickly. Henceforth, I'll come in from a ride, decant a bottle of shiraz, get the brie, blue and other cheeses (maybe some antipasto too) from the fridge and take a shower. By then the bike should be cool enough to remove the drain plug which I will do.

While I drink the red, eat the cheese and antipasto and then sleep it all off, the oil can drain away.

Thank you. Changing oil may just have become slightly more of a pleasure than a pain.

And, respectfully, may I suggest that, rather than discussing the temperature of the oil as it drains, we have a thread on menus to drain sumps by? I'm hoping it will be less inflammatory. A fine Camembert is more to my liking. Pouilly Fuisse, perchance, to accompany escargot, followed by a perfectly steamed halibut steak with naught but lemon, butter, and salt. Asparagus spears, steamed to a turn, with Hollandaise, freshly-blended.

Wash it down with a pint of Fat Tire Ale, followed by Turkish coffee, a trifle or two, and a snifter of VSOP to cleanse the palate.

By that time, the oil has cooled to the ideal temperature for drainage, exactly 35 degrees C. And the owner has passed out.