Aluminum fork tube oxidation ?

[bflint]

Have what looks like some light oxidation on upper part of my aluminum fork tubes. How do you clean/polish this back to originial?
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FYI ... A couple of years ago, the TankSlapper guy did some custom tank stuff for my 2014 DLX and gave me the leftover film which I cut into narrow strips and put on lower part of fork tubes ... still looks brand new under the 3M, but unprotected upper area is slightly dull.

 

[bflint]

Do our 2014 CB1100 aluminum forks have a coating on them of some sort?

 

[pekingduck]

The US market 2013, 2014 DLX, and 2017 fork legs are polished aluminum with a clear powdercoat over them. They hold up pretty well, but over time, they can get pits and chips from rocks, etc., and oxidation will attack the silver aluminum surface from underneath. This is also true of the engine case covers.

The clearcoat will yellow over time by oxidation and sun (compare the outer sides to the backsides of the forks to see), especially if not waxed. The clearcoat needs to be kept clean and waxed, not just wiped off.

We've all seen plenty of cars that have the clearcoat peeling on the top surfaces that haven't been kept cleaned and polished. Powdercoating and clearcoats makes it easier to keep clean, but they still benefit from a protective coat of wax.

 

[dave]

Are we talking fork tubes or fork legs? I believe the fork tubes are made from steel that have been chrome-plated. I use a very fine, steel wool to polish my fork tubes.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Weathered aluminum front forks adds character to the ride. It means the bike is loved and ridden. Ain't that so Ferret?

I will admit, cracked fork seals is ugly.

 

[the Ferret]

Mine has lots of charachter lol

 

[pekingduck]

Are we talking fork tubes or fork legs? I believe the fork tubes are made from steel that have been chrome-plated. I use a very fine, steel wool to polish my fork tubes.

I was speaking of the aluminum sliders, but the steel fork tubes get their share of corrosion too, especially the neglected and harder to reach areas between the triple clamps. Steel wool is fine, but like any cleaner, leaves a bare surface. WD40 or wax or almost anything would help protect it.

 

[bflint]

The US market 2013, 2014 DLX, and 2017 fork legs are polished aluminum with a clear powdercoat over them. They hold up pretty well, but over time, they can get pits and chips from rocks, etc., and oxidation will attack the silver aluminum surface from underneath. This is also true of the engine case covers.

The clearcoat will yellow over time by oxidation and sun (compare the outer sides to the backsides of the forks to see), especially if not waxed. The clearcoat needs to be kept clean and waxed, not just wiped off.

We've all seen plenty of cars that have the clearcoat peeling on the top surfaces that haven't been kept cleaned and polished. Powdercoating and clearcoats makes it easier to keep clean, but they still benefit from a protective coat of wax.

Thanks for all the details.... I will try some polish and tlc

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

The US market 2013, 2014 DLX, and 2017 fork legs are polished aluminum with a clear powdercoat over them. They hold up pretty well, but over time, they can get pits and chips from rocks, etc., and oxidation will attack the silver aluminum surface from underneath. This is also true of the engine case covers.

The clearcoat will yellow over time by oxidation and sun (compare the outer sides to the backsides of the forks to see), especially if not waxed. The clearcoat needs to be kept clean and waxed, not just wiped off.

We've all seen plenty of cars that have the clearcoat peeling on the top surfaces that haven't been kept cleaned and polished. Powdercoating and clearcoats makes it easier to keep clean, but they still benefit from a protective coat of wax.

Is it possible some clear coats are better than others at defending against oxidation due to UV exposure?

 

[Nortoon_imp]

Used a Mr. Clean eraser to remove some grunge from my aluminum carpenter's square. Found out it also brightens aluminum. The square looks brand new now.

The erasers are also the only thing that I have found that will remove the mould from plastic lawn chairs.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Mr. Clean "Magic Erasers" (formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer) are truly magical. Apparently they are safe to use, but don't eat them.

 

[Nortoon_imp]

I wear nitrile gloves when working with any solvents, cleaners, polishes, or petroleum based products. Anything strong enough to take rust or other oxides off of metal can't be good for the skin.

My most respected polish is Autosol. I only use it if everything else fails. Nothing else will turn a rag so black when cleaning alloys. Makes me wonder what it is doing to the metal at the molecular level.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I wear nitrile gloves when working with any solvents, cleaners, polishes, or petroleum based products. Anything strong enough to take rust or other oxides off of metal can't be good for the skin.

My most respected polish is Autosol. I only use it if everything else fails. Nothing else will turn a rag so black when cleaning alloys. Makes me wonder what it is doing to the metal at the molecular level.

Correct. Protect and moisturize the skin. It will crack with most said liquids and even the Magic Eraser.

I believe the black rag is the resultant reaction the compound has with the alloy and/or alloy surface oxides. Some of these type of compounds also "seal" the surface with a type of polymer that protects it from subsequent oxidation. Some can even survive (i.e. not burn) the surface heat of the exhaust port pipes. I know this because for the first time (all of 2018) my headers did not turn blue/purple/brown.